Patcon

Have you had it professional aligned yet?

If you ran the DCOE concealed FI bodies you would three of them and a triple carb intake

Those are really cool!

Well that's a problem, all the cars I'm emotionally attached to don't run. Some don't roll. My work truck get's saved because with out it I'm out of business. The suburban get's saved and stuffed with as many non replaceables as possible

True but at this customer level. They may be at one of their other homes. Might not be local to the car at the time and if it's well insured aren't worried about. Maybe they got in the Duesenberg instead...

Unfortunately paint work can be really expensive., especially if you live in a small community with limited choices. $8k is high for paint but having it fixed will probably not be cheap either. If you figure it could take someone 40 hours or more to sand the car down, fix any blemishes, prime, mask, tack it and respray at $40-50 an hour plus materials. It starts to add up. I don't want to be negative but I don't want you to be shocked either. If you can find a shop that will work with you and walk you through a lot of the prep work you could do a lot of it your self and try to save some cash. You can wash the car, degrease it with wax and grease remover and wet sand it with a good sanding block to whatever the shop wants and let them check it, prep it and spray it. The lion's share of the work is the sanding not the painting

If you do drill it, you will need to think about preventing corrosion at the fresh holes or the plating can begin peeling there from rust...

Many of the prices on the site aren't too bad. If I were going to do it I might take a chance on a fresh water flood car. We have dried them out before and they work fine...

I have looked at buying wrecked Ferrari's in the past and repairing them. Look for used parts but make sure you have a healthy heart first. It will take your breath away. A used front hood costs more than most of us paid for our whole cars. Used head lights a couple of grand each. Get's really expensive quick...

Not likely, it will just make the bumps shinier. It is hard to get good shine until the surface is smooth, which takes wet sanding...

I hate that! I was planning on using you in the future...

The upper picture has lots of orange peel in it. If the underlying primer is smooth that could be wet sanded and buffed but I don't know what you'll end up with. Did a professional shop spray the car? If so they need a lot more practice. I don't have a high line gun and work in a homemade paint booth and my paint comes out smoother than that. I hate that for you...

The circlip is removed when disassembling the pump. Blue posted a video a while back about rebuilding water pumps. The mechanic shows it in that video

@Blue

Thanks, Jim I didn't see that So they are LMC, that explains the other part of the business. I am sure the volumes are better in their other lines and parts are probably easier to source. I understand the business decision but it is unfortunate none the less...

The factory manuals are available in the downloads area of the site. I believe they are also available at "Xenon"??? (Guys)

The valve cover looks sharp

The real question is whether it curls out to see and makes another shot at Florida later next week...

It is my understanding that Black Dragon is just closing out the Datsun side of the business. so I assume the Mazda side is being maintained or expanded...

I think Eastwood offers a clear to run over single stage, but it may not be compatible with what you have. Do you know what product line they used? Do you have any left over color? You would need to know what type of paint you have, there is more than one type of single stage. If you know what product line they used then I would find the local distributor and go there and ask them for advice. They can advise you on what is available and what can be done about it. Also if you know what product was used I will look at the P sheets and try to do a little research as well. I would think they bought their products locally somewhere

Keep an eye on your plug color to make sure the manual fuel pressure adjustment is where it needs to be...

Single stage paint is hard to get real glossy. Part of the problem is as single stage paint cures all the UV protection rises to the top and cures making it shiny and protecting the color. When you wet sand you cut that protection off. It's hard to know how much you can cut because you don't know how thick the paint is and you don't know how much protection you are removing. It's a pretty color but it's prone to fade, so too much buffing hurts you long term. Base coat clear coat allows you to stack extra clear then cut off the orange peel and the flaws. Another possibility is the underlying primer base was not real smooth, so the paint they shot over it didn't come out smooth either. If it was mine, I would go back to the original shop and ask them what can be done. If they cut through the paint or burn a panel then it's not on you and they should fix it my 2 cents...

I would agree on that What technique did he use?

Good job! Glad to you found your way home, even without the bread crumbs...

Walters car showed back up at Copart after the sealed bid, then disappeared, then showed up again. It finally ran on Oct 4th. It was $4,100 in the prebid which was already too much for me. I didn't watch it run, but I wouldn't be surprised if it reached $4,500 for a sales price. It was a "Pure sale" car, so it sold for whatever the bid was - no reserve. I would have liked to have taken a shot at fixing it since I have pretty much everything I would need to do it, but it was not meant to be... With buyers fees about 20% plus freight from Indiana to South Carolina it was too much for me. I hope someone fixes it, for that kind of money I think someone will. Keep an eye on Ebay and Craigslist, I bet in 3 or 4 months it will show up somewhere... @Walter Moore Walter, Did you watch the auction by chance to see what it went for?