Patcon

The Graham tool looks like it is almost moving metal from between the rollers to the bulge area. There appears to be a step behind where the tools runs on the vise side where it thinned the metal. That's an interesting tool but I would be hard pressed to use it enough...

If he can't locate a 170 d thermostat locally, someone here might send him one. I even might...

That is a sharp looking setup wheee!. I love the AN fittings and they make it so clean and bullet proof

I agree with everything psdenno said!! You still haven't reworked the fuel lines! One thing at a time! So you added coolant and the car no longer overheats? You will need to check it again later... It sounds like the car runs better...correct? It still slows down but doesn't shut off... The fuel lines are the next thing to replace! but don't take it back to your Colombian mechanic. He's an idiot!!!! You can do it witth a little guidance from these guys here. It's easy work. Try doing it yourself!! The bubbles are not an issue for now. Don't get distracted! The valves are not the issue. Your friends advise is suspect...

Looks great! Well done...

Could be. I can think or a lot of suitable adjectives but I will restrain myself... ...Idiot! C

I wouldn't think they roll beaded small diameter stuff. No way to insert an anvil on the interior side of the pipe... I would suspect some kind of flair process...

I have used Seal All Goop for a gas tank repair when the tank had rust holes at the seams. Ran it another five years or so with no leaks...

First check the coolant level before starting it. I bet it's low...top it off... Don't let it idle with out keeping an eye on the gauge. If it gets to 3/4 of the way up, try touching the upper radiator hose. Don't get burnt!!! and don't stick you hand in the fan!!! If you can touch it, then check the thermostat housing. Your hands can't handle temps that are truely above half way on the temp gauge. If you can touch those two and the valve cover the engines probably not overheating it is seeing steam at the thermostat. You are best off to not let the gauge get into the red. If it gets hot, let it cool off and add some coolant. When it get's half way rev it a little bit to move the water through the engine to flush out the air Report back exactly what you see, did and how you did it. We will go from there...

I would look for a different mechanic or learn how to do it yourself. This work is really pretty simple as far as mechanic work goes...

There should be no need to remove the thermostat. You still don't know how hot it actually got...

I agree your mechanic sounds like a very rude person...

Only by the gauge!! How do you know the gauge is correct? After making this mod there could be an air bubble or the coolant could be low. Did you physically touch the hoses to see if they were hot? Did you have fuel issues when the gauge said it was hot? You may have more than one issue...

Did you check the hoses to see if the car was actually that hot?! Did the mechanic properly burp the system? Did he even test it? Did the temp come down after it went to the red? Did the car stall after making the modification? How do you know it didn't help the fuel problem????

I agree scam I believe that car had pictures here a while back in a thread...

The latest response "I am a collector man I know what's worth money."

My email interaction with the seller. Not really serious in my opinion! Pretty difficult to come in person from 3000 miles away. How do you know what my definition of a low number car is? C On 12/17/2016 6:39 PM, craigslist 5903328070 wrote:

Yeah.....No. That was pretty harsh to the casting

Oh, I understand but like Jim I was thinking of Nix240z. If he were to decide to do it I am confident he would get as close as possible to the original rubber density. He's a little OCD like that...I believe that Zcardepot and MSA tend to be pretty diligent too Steve has always been hesitant to make parts that could have litigation associated with them, but this part should have limited risks since the bolts are really the insurance factor

yes the OE's are NLA...Wish we could convince a vendor to reproduce this part...

Although almost every decent running 350 has double the horsepower and gobs of torque compared to the original engine, some have triple. At some point it becomes difficult to transfer excess horsepower to the ground with out lots of work...

I understand the 73's have some unique things about them that can make them less desirable, but there are some things about them that I like. They have delay wipers, they are the only year and I assume they have one of the most sorted electrical systems as opposed to the early cars... As for the emissions, it's gone on almost every Z I ever see here. I would run SU's or triples anyway so it doesn't matter to me what it had originally... I really like that Silver car ^^^ the owners ok too...

Jeff, What's that a Celica chasing you? Must be moving along to have the inside rear tire off the ground...

Wow!! We are aggressive aren't we?

It's minor surgery!!!! Go ahead and try it....