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Found 8 results

  1. Last night I replaced the choke (cold start) cables for the carburetors. They need to slide freely and after 44 years of usage and most likely never being lubricated since new, it was time. After doing some research I found that 0.055" Piano wire is the best option for replacement as its affordable and able to push and pull, which is required. I also have more than enough left over and only paid $4.60.After disconnecting the cables from the carbs and pulling the center console apart, I removed the cables from inside the cabin, then measured the length needed. I left myself an extra foot before I cut the Piano wire. I bent it around the mounting plate and then lubed it very very very good before fishing it back into the housing and reconnecting. I'm very pleased with the results!Link to Piano Wire used:http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3JQGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
  2. Good evening guys, So I'm back for more help. It's almost time to drive my 240z for the first time, but the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. You might remember me. I'm the guy who bought the 72 with a seized engine(that I got unstuck). I'm here because the engine has a really hard time running when engine cold. It's about 60 degrees in Chicago now . So it will start and revs to about 2500 for 2 seconds and shut off, try again and again the same thing. Over and over and over again for about 5 minutes. I'm messing with the throttle the whole time. After a few minutes of that , it runs and idle great! Other that a slight bog when I blip off idle. Sorry for the long story, just want to give some background. Thanks in advance guys
  3. 1970 240z I'm looking for a hand throttle knob. Does anyone have one for sale. I would appreciate any help. Pic below. Gus
  4. 1970 240z I'm looking for a hand throttle knob. Does anyone have one for sale. I would appreciate any help. Pic below. Gus
  5. Hi guys, Just bought a 1973 with a re-done interior and center console in good shape. But there is an empty slot where the choke handle would normally be (car has triple Mikunis so previous owner probably just yanked it). Am out looking for Series 2 240Z choke assembly with handle and cables, wondering if anyone knows if the 260z choke assembly will also work - they look almost identical. Also, anyone know what is supposed to go over the holes to the right of the choke lever slot? Thanks
  6. My car has been running fine since i finally managed to adjust both round top 3 screws su carbs. However, i do sometimes noticed that if i suddenly bump with the choke lever in the console, the yellow lights comes up. I decided then to move the lever up and down to see what happens. WRONGGGGG!!!! Now the cable got worse, the lever wont go up all the way as it did before and if i start the car its too cold. I tried tightening the screw in the console but it did nothing. Should i take the air filter out and unscrew both cables fastened at each of the carbs to see if it releases the pressure and goes back? I have never adjusted these choke cables before, i have left this issue always to my mechanic. Can someone guide me in the correct direction to solve this problem by myself without trying to get a mechanic tomorrow saturday? I know i shouldnt have played with the lever but now its too late and i need to get this sorted out.
  7. I am trying to install a choke cable on my 73 because it didn't have one installed when I bought it. I took the cable off of my 71 and thought I would install it on the 73. Then realizing the hole that the cable goes through on the 71 isn't there on my 73. Sooo..... My question is: A) Is the 71 and 73 cables different Do I have to cut a hole in the 73 to make it work. (Doesn't sound right) C) The picture with the arrow is the choke cable hole (below the CMC) and I need to find one that will work for my 73. Because it would need to be longer because the position of the hole. :stupid: I hope this makes sense and any help would be appreciated as always.
  8. Hey everyone, just ordered and received a rubber shift boot and a choke grommet in order to help with the fumes inside the Z. The shift boot has a hole and I can see the floor, while the choke grommet is missing all together and in its place a piece of duct tape. Anyway, while I am installing the grommet, I was wondering if there was anything I could to do fix the choke? I pull on the knob and the cables do move like they are supposed to, but nothing happens. Not even when I pull on the linkage manually. I know it is supposed to increase the idle in order to help the car warm up. Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Anything that I can do myself or should I leave this to the pros? Thanks in advance Below I will include pictures of the parts I will be installing. Also, a thanks to Esprist for supplying the shifter boot
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