Patcon

The dash looks good. What products did you use?

I would love to have an early to mid 80's 911. One of the best handling cars I have even driven, if you can avoid the "snappy" rear end. Those cars are quickly becoming unaffordable, but the real deal killer was the $900+ clutch kits, etc, etc. The parts to keep a Porsche running are just silly expensive, and if you can't do the work yourself add $90+ an hour for labor. If you keep looking you can find a nice Z car for the money you are willing to spend. I agree you should enlist help from the forum if possible to check out cars that are not local to you...but if you find a good deal (verify) don't hesitate it won't last

Love it! Cody does too but it exceeds our piggy bank funds. Really cool rare Datsun

2nd Fedhill! You can rent their flairing tool too if you can't justify purchasing one...

I would add Charlie Osbourne to that list, for floor boards

Fuel pump, correct fuel tank, fuel lines, lots of little details....

Pretty pistons, forged?

That could make a very lively Xmas morning? Pictures or it didn't happen...

No it's not...

$414 isn't bad but which head is that?

I bought an SU manifold for our 510 from Japan. Will try to source some SU's later. Need the smaller ones. Need to get the front end put back together so he can drive it some...

Hard to make an L28 fit. Doable but takes a lot of firewall work...

Those would at least look period correct, even if the shape is not exactly the same

Looks like a good start...

Looked at Moss, couldn't locate the Stag bottles...

Glad you got a response. That means at least you know you are working in the right direction. I would measure the thickness of the factory mirror base and source some metal in a similar thickness...

@Diseazd Guy, What rubber is on that white car? The tread is really interesting...

What did you buy? What is the plan? Start a thread in the 510 forum. We are blocking panels for paint for Cody's "Goon" currently

The car is on Copart. I have seen the auction there. It looks like the rear wheels arches are pretty rough so I would assume it has some heavy rust. I would say the engine is in it because the front would be much higher without it...but you're right you have no idea what is under the hood

It would be interesting to price out the pieces. I would be surprised if it was really way out of line. the pieces add up pretty quick. Here is the package contents : 2 Front Control Arm Bushings, 2 Front Sway Bar Mount Bushings, 8 Sway Bar End Link Bushings, 4 Tension Rod Bushings, 2 Rear Control Arm Bushings - Forward, 2 Rear Control Arm Bushings - Rear, 4 Spindle Pin Bushings, 2 Spindle Pins, 4 Spindle Pin Nuts, 4 Spindle Pin Rubber Washers and 1 aftermarket Urethane Mustache Bar Bushing Set.

This roof cut is from a 76 280z

You welcome. Every week or so browse through. You'll find one eventually

Tried to look at the brochure in an editor but not enough resolution to really tell how it installs. Glad you already bought it. I was gonna PM you to suggest you do that before someone undercut you. Most regulars here wouldn't but you never know who's "lurking"...

I just happen to have a roof panel lying around. This all you are going to have up front I believe. The three holes are for the base of the mirror. I am just guessing but I bet the base that is missing comes all the way forward and replaces the existing mirror base using the three mounting screws

That's a good call. My train of thought exactly. It does look like it's missing the base. Maybe something could be fabricated