Patcon

The 76 tank is pretty rare but if it were me I would modify the tank or source a second one and modify it. You could build trap doors like racing oil pans have to prevent fuel from sloshing away from the pick up or make a lower sump area. I know there is another way to accomplish this too. I think you pump into an intermediate container then pump from that to the engine but I don't know exactly how that's plumbed.

Wow, those have gotten pricey!

Many people do powder coat the wheels. The hub caps look surprisingly good. I think there is a hub cap restoration thread here somewhere

Wheel pictures?

Targa would have been fun!

Or possibly the heater valve itself

The car needs a lot of work for $8700! The "buy it now's" are usually pretty optimistic. If you are the high bidder, they will usually try to haggle to get the reserve met. I rarely budge much on price

There is no recourse if you use a gift card versus some other form of payment

I agree, lot's of alarm bells there

That's a great looking truck! I agree you have to be fast sometimes. Look at how quickly CL ads are deleted after they get posted to the forum.

It is surprising how strong the interest can be on decent or even really rusty Z's on Copart. To the point where there is almost no difference in price from Copart to Craigslist. But the craigslist car normally has a clean title. Making it much more preferable. I have watched several times for a bargain but hard to come by unless you are looking at 280z's

I believe, if you add "site:classiczcar.com" at the end of your search string it will only search this site

Too bad. I was thinking that might increase the appeal. Not an issue in my part of the world

It's a 2+2 but it's an early 280z so it's emissions exempt, correct? https://www.copart.com/lot/35528149

It's a draw through turbo set up

That aught to bring good money!

Block off the front brakes and see what you get. It has to be one of just a few things: Air, a leak, bulging line, too much slack My bet is on air if you've got the adjustment right. The lines are long and I have run almost a whole quart through to get all the air out Do the rear drums have any lip on the inside edge?

That is really cool!

I don't know the condition of Mathew's hood but the one with the bruised nose is the one Bruce's friend has, I believe

Definitely easiest, if you can receive it with out damage. I don't have any experience with the current repops for fitment

Those kind of dents are very difficult for me. There is basically no access from the backside. So I would resort to stud welds or maybe even a plate and pull it. But you can't really hammer and dolly it to fine tune it. The 2 crease lines also make it harder to reverse the dent. If you were super adventurous you could de-skin the hood and fix it properly but a daunting task! You might could open the structure up on the bottom side, so you could slide a flat bar up in there from underneath. Then drive the dent out that way. I think there are 3 stampings at the front of the hood but I'm not sure and dont know the finer points on the construction.

Oh, I agree. Sort of like "rust free Z". I would just try to get more pics. Especially if it's being shipped. Becomes more important the further it is. Good you have leads

I keep them all together with the title work in my files

Those are the AC drains. Added if the car had dealer installed AC Did you use Searchtempest?

You could do that or try pulling the booster first. If the master isn't corroded on the rear end then you could just replace the booster and move on. That would be cheaper and you could do all the labor. If you have questions post up some pictures