Patcon

Zeddsaver doesn't have the 115 either but maybe he could get it?

So they had 11 something in it and sold it for 12k which didn't include the 54 manhours... The english wheel is a must for making a good patch, but I suspect it takes some practice to get it right

I don't mind that look. Sometimes the blue seems to through the palatte off

the inner fender metal looks great though. Even if it doesn't get seen!

The flip side of that is we have seen Z's trade over six figures and many cars in the 40's - 50's. That leaves a good bit of room to pay a metal man unless the car is stupid expensive

Some young people destroy their first cars; some don't. My first car, a 240z, was taken out by a dead pine tree, 25 years later... Some of that depends on Mathew and how mature he is. I do think a 280z would be better than a 240z. they are marginally safer and more refined. Mathew, Are you in Illinois?

Nice to have you back. Although I don't have any input

Circa what year?

Thanks for the necropsy The 240z ends are multiple parts. You can thread them in for the correct tension then tighten the lock ring to hold it. Are the new Moogs the later style?

Thats a good idea. Could use a bolt then cut the head off flush. Don't thread it in too far or you could block up the passage. Welding would be harder without pulling the head and because of contamination At 15 yo, I dont think you can have dumb questions. Better to ask then mess something up. Between the members here we have made most of the mistakes, some of them twice. No need for you to repeat them. Welcome aboard!

Do the 280z racks not have the ability to adjust tension on the side rod balls?

The 1970 FSM pages ST-10 & ST -11 have the procedures for "side rod ball" adjustment #9 in the exploded diagram. I didn't know how to paste them in here directly

Best of luck

If you build the engine for boost now, it will be a dog normally aspirated. You will need to keep your compression low to accept boost later. A 10:1 compression NA motor with a lighter flywheel can bring just as many grins

A normally aspirated motor is more forgiving when it comes to getting the tune right. Turbos don't tolerate lean-ness very well. A nice torquey motor in an S30 chassis is a lot of fun. These chassis are really only suitable for so much power with out a lot of work and extra metal

I suspect the Japanese ones are better steel than most of the ones on the market currently but I could be wrong. You are referring to these The ones I have appear to hard chrome on the spherical end with grease slots. I would think they should be very wear resistant. I am not sure how the modern ones are manufactured. As long as you can adjust them and remove any slop and they move freely, I would reuse them

I will have a look Maybe @Zed Head can help me out,. He is very good at finding things in the FSM

What is Miguel's shop?

The book recommended earlier is an excellent place to start before you tear into it

Nope, its a 2.8 liter motor but you would need to break it down to know what you really need. Might need pistons, might not. Might need standard rings, might not

@motorman7 Rich did you see this yet?

The upper car, I assume is a concept. It has very Maserati-esque lines

Not likely to happen. We will be fortunate if it has 6 cylinders

I believe there is a test in the FSM that might help clarrify your direction

Motorman7 uses a shop not far from you that does beautiful work and knows Zs but he would have to chime in on what to expect for costs