Patcon

I agree, swap with car! I think a better idea, is to source an L28ET motor complete with harness and go from there. That way most everything is reversible in the future when the cars are worth even more. Also the S30 chassis is not properly designed for the levels of torque that the LS series motors can produce.

Those sound like starter noises to me. Could be loose, bad teeth. Hard to tell by the video how many times the key is being turned. You could get a manual starter switch, that you connect to the starter. Then you can spin the engine while standing beside the car to narrow down the source of the noise.

Speaker wire varies a lot. If you mean what comes with most stereos, like 24ga or something, that's a little small. If you mean 12 ga like I normally use, that should be more than adequate

Thanks for that. I added his listed item in my watch list I'm not ready yet, but I like to bookmark things for when I am. Otherwise I can't find them later or remember which thread it was in

If its too low the pump might not run. Try running good battery power straight to the pump to eliminate a bad pump

I believe it comes down and through the frame rail below the filler neck and out onto top of the tank. Not positive though...

Can you post up a link to an ad? Or maybe his Ebay username?

I think that is the part number I used. I found they were a little too large but worked ok. Most people won't know unless I run over them.

Mmmmmm, BarBQue!

One option would be to source a hinge and paint it or steal the pin out of the new donor hinge. I know I couldn't weld that and make it hold. I might could if out TIG rig was working but I d on't think my MIG rig would make a clean enough weld

Thanks to you too, Mark!

Cheers Thank you for your service and his sacrifice!

Have you done a valve adjustment? If not start with that and make sure the valve train looks good.

or fuel sender?

What are your impressions on the exhaust?

Lots of guys who track their cars actually bleed their brakes between sessions. Most brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the air) and it does so even better when it is hot. By bleeding the brakes, your get fresh dry fluid and remove a lot of heat with the older hot fluid

I suspect you are boiling your brake fluid or the water in the system. You might want to consider converting to a better high heat fluid if you are going to spend any sort of time on the track

Yeah, I did the same thing. Was really frustrating to have to dig in further for a silly mistake

I wouldn't think the booster would be affected by tracking the car. Maybe one of the track guys will chime in

These cars are quickly becoming valuable enough to justify pretty extreme repair efforts.

The wet number is much better (all with in 10%). That would suggest a ring issue

Excellent! A little surprised it's that high

Possibly, but there is a diminishing returns thing. Where the higher flow above a certain point just adds back pressure, which creates noise. @ 20 MPG @ 60 MPH there is roughly 6 hours of fuel in the tank. So 20 GPH is 6 times over sized for what the car would need at a steady state. Now admittedly getting on it pretty good would burn fuel at a much faster rate but I suspect even getting on it good you never get into the 3 MPG range. There are other issues too. Is the rated flow with 0 head pressure? Because the system will have some head pressure to overcome pumping the fuel from the tank and up to the fuel rail and that will reduced the actual flow numbers. Zed, where is the factory flow test procedure. We could back calculate the designed pump flow rate for SU's as a baseline

However, you will never burn a full tank of fuel in an hour and the car doesn't hold 20 gallons full IIRC

Zed's post on numbers, dry and wet is a good place to start. What was the static compression on the rebuild? Peanut head or open head? Cast pistons? Detonation issues? Premium fuel? I would pull the head and make pictures. Could be a burnt valve, broken rings, holed piston, bent valve. A number of things really...