AZ-240z

Thanks for the very much appreciated compliments inline6. The valve cover and carb dome finishes are OEM. And Captain, I assume the “nits” were directed at my picture. The fuel pump, see attached pic, is indeed a NOS Nikki pump, and I also included a pic of the master cylinders. inline, not trying to hijack space as the work you have done on your car is truly amazing. AZ-240z

Hey inline6. Here are the clamps on my 1/71 series 1, and I’m pretty confident they are correct.

The hole in the inner corner of the hatch is a drain and needs nothing. Picture of hatch hinges may be of help as my car is a total stock restoration.

Exactly!

$150,000 to $175,000!

As a point of interest, thought I would add a picture of my NOS 11 - 70 spare tire. Since my 1/71 series 1 car was delivered new at the dealership with dish mags, I was fortunate to find a set of 11 - 70 wheels with their D hubcaps, and then this 11 - 70 spare. I think these wheels dated 11/70 are dated close enough that they could have been original equipment on my 1/71 car.

Glad to help!

I assume you are referring to the steel wheel, and not a hubcap. Here are some pictures of my NOS spare tire and wheel for my 1/71 car.

The 7/8” brake master cylinder on my 1/71 series 1 was leaking. I had good recommendations about White Post Restorations so sent my master cylinder for re-sleeving. Waiting for it’s return, so no in-hand results yet. https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/ you may want to call them for further informations. Dan

https://www.ebay.com/itm/394648053681?hash=item5be2db67b1:g:o3IAAOSwpzNkcnMW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IlGuHR%2FzD0fiqx7Z98%2BZxJwc6hodjnbAJO1aTHPwCtZrEddNCdoIM8j2bsV7oa%2B33JzNKfnSAVjxiWKTRgn1b14rmCeRsOBaj5nWuie380mRcWjpZbk%2FoOFlCN2Fq6e0XHv%2FDAYS1WeILGUpWHNJeiESeJtFOcwNZwXP8YfkPppoaAVZGIO8pZa4Rx95a1sRj25vhAh3lKypHnoGVsCDSrJrOCi%2Bk0M1VQFFOiPP6fiR8662NuUNZF0Agde%2Bh14pHQ9VXkHvwXlWVDqR%2BOqqMADj%2BMJRBNbgZ3f5zbeyw1I|tkp%3ABk9SR-im-bWMYg

Neat T-shirt! Think I’ll order, but want to get size I can wear. 26th-Z, does your shirt run true-to-size for you?

You may have already gone down this road, but, since your door cards are custom, here is a thought. https://www.google.com/search?q=custom+upholstery+peel+and+stick+chrome+accent+strips&client=safari&hl=en-us&ei=vxtdZKbeMpGqqtsP3sGFqAY&ved=0ahUKEwjmua_F2-3-AhURlWoFHd5gAWUQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=custom+upholstery+peel+and+stick+chrome+accent+strips&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIFCAAQogQyCAgAEIkFEKIEMggIABCJBRCiBDIFCAAQogQ6CggAEEcQ1gQQsANKBAhBGABKBQhAEgExUNoXWM9FYMZQaAFwAXgAgAGEAYgBjQmSAQM1LjaYAQCgAQHIAQfAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4543049 you’re very welcome! This one has the dial!

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4592931 Even though it is listed as “out of stock”, he can probably make one!

Correction, please put me on the list for a set of the early 1970 cables. @CanTechZ just made me aware, because I wasn’t paying attention, that my series 1 L24-027119 1/71 car would probably been delivered with the early 1970 cable set. Thanks. Dan

@CanTechZ, you are absolutely correct. My engine is L24-027116, so the early 1970 cables would most probably have been delivered with my car. I’ll correct my request with SpeedRoo, and thanks! Dan

@SpeedRoo, please put me on the list for a set for my 1/1971 when you do 1971 sets!

Enjoyed the pictures of your beautiful Z. I’ll give you my take on the cause and possible fix of your fuel/exhaust smells. I’ve done everything you did to seal all obvious sources of interior leaks. To make all the changes in grommets, weatherstripping, etc., I had removed all interior paneling and carpeting in the cargo deck area. Upon close inspection I found that the weld seams around the edges of the rear deck floor had some gaps showing daylight. A little rope calk fixed that and no more exhaust smells, window open or closed. this may be obvious, but, when you open a window, this causes a Venturi effect which sucks out cabin air and sucks in exhaust through leaks in the rear deck area, so the exhaust isn’t really coming in the open window. Hope this helps. Dan

Here is a pic of mine as installed during restoration!

I would carefully remove this tag and put it in a clear photo grade plastic sleeve for future reference. All the information a judge would need, if he bothered to look, is embossed on the muffler itself. The exhaust system on my car is all NOS with this very same muffler. As rare as this is, I had the whole exhaust ceramic Jet-Hot coated in the original bare metal finish to preserve it through a life's worth of heat cycles.

You’re welcome!

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php

I agree that it looks like it should with the correct original fitting gaps. But, just looking at the male latch on the hood, if the hood center is high, would it be possible to screw the male latch catch further into the hood so it would seat lower in the female latch catch on the firewall? probably all wet, but just asking.

Hi Kats. You were my inspiration in my car’s restoration, so happy to be able to return the favor in some small way. Dan

A couple of things I noticed, not to be critical but in the interest of correctness on this early car, can be seen in picture #113. The lower door rubber seal appears to be installed with the seal flange outboard instead of inboard of the door bottom. Also, the door dovetail striker below the latch is the later, universal dovetail with the beefier mounting hole opening. The earlier dovetails had thinner mounting hole openings which tended to crack under use. The earlier dovetails were also side specific, ie., left and right. In picture #115, the inner rocker scuff plates should be mounted with 5 Phillips screws, not the three used on later series cars. A drill will remedy this. And, the door weatherstripping appears to be a replacement tubular seal as opposed to a more accurate reproductions available in the market. this is indeed a beautifully restored car touched by Pierre, the master of Z reincarnations.