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The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

That's a midlife crisis screaming out loud car. I'd end up wearing shoes without laces. 🤪

If it's possible, try contacting the people who placed these six figure bids and ask them? I can understand the emotions behind an auction, but there's got to be good reasons why these cars are selling in the high digits. In my opinion, this kind of money is only spent by people with the cash to do it. Unless they have inherited the money, they are likely very smart with their life choices and will have a valid reason to throw six figures at such a car. It typically won't be a whim and they will not do it unless there's some kind of investment value. BTW, "value" is a subjective term and doesn't always equal money. ;)

And I thought it was some hot asian chick who drove a Porsche... O_O

About this Vintage Z - As I recall - this one first showed up for sale about 20 miles North of me. New Port Richey or Holliday Florida. A friend of mine went to look it over, and reported that it was very poorly cared for. The next time we saw it, was its first sale on BAT. My fiend remarked that it had been very well detailed for that sale and looked 100% better than his personal inspection. Now we see it again, with an owner that put some significant funds and I’m sure elbow grease into it - to bring it up to better condition. Will the customer modifications hurt its market value? Not as much as the current market itself, the mod’s might hurt it a little as most collectors don’t want to mess with fixing anything.

280ZX Brake MC is ready to go! I tore this apart several years ago thinking it would be a short project, but the rebuild kit I had turned out to be for the one made by Tokico (large perforated disc residual valves) and this one is made by Nabco (small rubber duckbill residual valves, see below). I had messed around with trying to rejuvenate the reservoirs. I had read you could cover it in a solution of oxy clean and hydrogen peroxide gel under UV light for 24 hours and it would take the yellow out. It lightened it up, but they’re still clearly yellow. Super clean, though. I also did some chemistry on some of the hardware. The bleeders and reducers for this thing are not common sizes (the reducers are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0) and after two weeks of searching for replacements I gave up and decided to try chemically coating them. I didn’t want to do the hardcore hot bluing or zinc methods because of the chemicals, so I used the rust bluing method. Basically, you soak them in white vinegar to strip off the rust, zinc, and anything else on them. Then you paint them with a paracetic acid / salt solution (8 parts hydrogen peroxide:1 part white vinegar + as much salt as it will dissolve). Dry it with a heat gun and throw it into a double boiler. You’ll see the rust turn black, which is when it turns into iron oxide. Buff it with steel wool and repeat until satisfied, then soak for 24 hours in motor oil. They came out okay. I was hoping they would look more like the pistons, but this is what they look like after four rounds of the process, so it’s going to have to be good enough. Fingers crossed that they don’t just immediately corrode. You could also do the phosphoric acid version (cold bluing), but this makes a harder coating of iron oxide. Then I just had to hone the cylinder, flush it with 91% alcohol, wipe it out, and reassemble. I kept the Tokico 240Z reservoir caps since I didn’t wire the car for ZX caps (PN: 46020-U6701) with the fluid level sensors and don’t have the metal (PN: 46020-K2401) or plastic (PN: 46020-N6000) Nabco caps. Maybe later if I can find a set for less than €53.40. It looks pretty good after test fitting it. I’m waiting for a dust cover and O-ring in the mail, then I can install it and bleed the brakes.

Not so much trained but he does what he wants and gets what he wants I guess by just paying attention. He's the reason I get out of bed, his name is Rolex. I know what he wants and he knows what I'm about to do and runs and hides under the bed. Hates baths and toenail trims, cleaning his big ears are a weekly fight too. But I can't imagine my life without a good dog. So yeah I guess he is trained but I didn't do it, he did.

Sorry Mike... It's not. I know you wanted it to be. ☺️

Now that’s a smart Dawg!

I've used Hastings twice and didn't run into any problems. My dog has started eating those gummies all the kids are raving about. Now he just lays around and poots and then laughs about it.

Hi Site…..When installing new pistons and rings in an expensive rebuild, I want to feel confident that when I squeeze those pistons in the bores, they are perfect. The ITM pistons are awesome. When installing rings, I have found that the Total Seals oil rings mate up so easy that I can sleep at night shoving the pistons into the bores…….just me. I’m sure that ITM oil rings and Hastings will work, but I just never felt like I had them installed correctly….at least not in my mind. An extra $200.00 for top quality rings always seemed worth the investment…..whatcha think? BTW How’s your dog? Regards Guy

Never mind. I erased my internet history and the problem went away. Didn't know that "cookies" could do that. I think I had clicked on something by accident. Back to original programming...

I like stock cars but I also like modified cars. I like it when hybrid cars use a driveline from the same manufacturer. If I didn't have so many projects I would consider taking that one on...

Lol, I think it doesn't matter what car we drive. What matters is that we all like this culture

Hi guys, I replaced the mustache bar bushings and re-torqued my rear strut insulator lock nuts. I didn't notice any play there when the springs were compressed. The good news is that the clunking noise is gone. Replaced the master/slave clutch cylinders/hydraulic hose. The old ones showed some internal brake fluid leakage. No more grinding while shifting into reverse. The clutch fork moves 12.5 mm (half an inch). The pedal is at 8 in, 15 mm of free travel before the slave starts pushing the rod. I searched this forum and someone mentioned that the 15 mm is a good number for a fork throw. I am guessing if mine was too short to disengage the clutch disk, I would have heard/felt it. Thanks to all who helped with the diagnostics!

It's a small car! I will get some nose to nose pictures with my 240. That dealership is only a mile from here. Here's my offer of his for mine, no response yet but I'll leave that on the table for ONE WEEK!😁 https://www.nissanofgadsden.com/used/Porsche/1988-Porsche-911-bd11c7e8ac181b91072054cb1839c5ba.htm

Don’t worry Ji-hye, I drive a Porsche as well and they haven’t treated me bad…

I had the weirdest accident! My truck was parked in my driveway. The instagram model across the street was parked in her driveway. Nobody in either truck. My daily is a 2024 Tacoma TRD Off Road. Hers is a 1998 Ford Ranger. Her truck popped out of gear rolled out of the driveway, across the street, up my driveway and in to the front end of my truck. $3000 damage, all cosmetic. The only thing my wife says is “only you could get hit by a damned instagram model!” My rental is a Nissan Rogue. I am struck by how much better the transmission feels!

The 72 FSM has the colors. In @kats connector it does not show a Br or BrW wire. It shows two GW. This may be the correct orientation:

Anything to help another gearhead! Rust areas are the most important hidden item on these old cars.

Thank you Mike. If anyone from this forum wants one I'm sure I can arrange a sensible discount. Because the cost to ship to the USA is quite expensive if a few people wanted to club together i can send in one go.

Wargames. 41 is old.

No, no no. Ferris Beuller was in Weird Science. Have you been drinking? I have. 😁

What was the name of the movie I believe Matthew Broderick was in 20plus years ago where he was at the command center where the computer kept asking “Do you want to play a game?” Where the ballistic missiles were pounding the world.

If nothing else, the six pages of responses over the last 10 days appears to answer the topic question, "Is anyone there?".

SpeedRoo - If you're interested in more on this subject, like the 3 iterations, I'll be glad to talk on the phone or through email however this crowd clearly is fixated on that distant shiny object as opposed to facts on this greasy, dirty planet. I'll leave it at that. For those 2 chaps that responded to my question about the application of the replated parts. They will be going on what is probably my last restoration - 1972 Datsun 510 Wagon.

Challenging responses and punctuation at the end of every sentence. I especially liked the "Don't you have a mother?" comment. Now what?

Could you dumb that down for me please? I hate not being able to go to the last post like we could do a month or 2 ago. Maybe @Mike knows the secret? I haven't been able to figure it out and believe you/me I've tried!

As I was driving through town (a town of 2,000 - so it's a small town) this afternoon, heading towards some of my favorite twisty roads, I saw a blue 370Z coming the opposite direction. Being a motorcyclist, I figured I'd gave him "the waive". To my amazement, he understood why he got the waive and gave me a thumbs-up and a waive back. It was nearly 90 degrees out, so I was even amazed that his windows were open. That someone driving a modern spam-can understood the connection between his blue modern marvel, and my blue classic, truly made my day.

I got the "come on around" wave a week or 2 ago from an 18 wheeler. Dropped down a gear, maybe two?, and lit it rip. He was flashing his headlights when I came around, not a car in sight so I got ahead of him pretty quick. Made my day!

https://www.arizonazcar.com/engine This is where I my pan was purchased. It has hinged baffles and holds an extra qt. of oil. Very heavy duty.

I've received several waves this year from motorcycle riders when I've been driving my Z. I'm not a motorcycle rider, so I haven't tried to respond "in kind" (and it might look a bit odd coming from the driver's door of a car), but I've given a friendly regular wave back. I definitely saw it as an honor (to the car), and was happy to see it in each case. I'm sure we all get lots of waves from other classic car drivers, which I'm also happy to receive! Yesterday, being Canada Day, was a big day for that!

Oh, and the last time I did an oil pan, I did things a little different. First the same: I bought a cork/rubber combo gasket like Datsun used originally and I used permatex gray (a very tiny bead) on both sides of the gasket. That tiny bead hopefully will not make it very difficult to get the oil pan off again if I ever need to. Hope I never need to, but hoping it won't be a battle if I ever do. After applying the tiny bead, I I torqued the pan into place and let the sealant cure. That much of the process is pretty much what I had done in the past. Then I did something different... After giving the sealant a couple days or so to cure, I went back, and ONE BY ONE, I removed the bolts, put some blue thread lock on them, and torqued them in again. My thinking on this is twofold: First, the gasket had time to compress and take a set. This was confirmed as I was taking the bolts out because some of them were looser than they were when I put them in couple days before. And second... The torque spec on those oil pan bolts is so small that It barely even compresses the lock washer. I'm thinking that maybe not even enough to prevent the bolts from loosening over time. So my theory, which is mine, is that the blue threadlock will keep the bolts torqued (even at such a low amount) while giving the gasket a day to take a compression set before final torque will keep the gasket under pressure. Won't know for a while how successful that whole thing was, but I'm hopeful!

Have you trained him to do anything else?

I was preparing to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the front oil seal. Although the engine was wet with oil, I took a look at the area around the HB and noticed it was dirty, but dry. I then rag-checked the area behind the HB and confirmed it was dry - not leaking. I cleaned the engine and ran it for 10 minutes. I noticed the engine was wet in the vicinity of the oil pump and alternator bracket. The pooling seemed to be most significant under/near where the alternator mount bolts to the engine block. I removed the alternator and the bracket and cleaned up the area with a rag. Just to be sure it wasn't the oil pump I put a torque wrench on the four bolts and checked them at 13 ft/lbs (the spec is 11 to 15). I got a click on all of them. The timing cover was a different story. I started checking the bolts that weren't suspected of leaking and found they could all use about a 1/4 turn. The one just above the wet zone took a full two turns. The one just below took almost a full turn. It would appear that the significant oil leak was the result of two loose bolts on the timing cover. That was a heck of a lot easier then replacing a front seal.

That's exactly what the problem was on my car. I had a puzzling oil leak, seep, about a tablespoon every 30 miles or so. Small spot under my car after sitting. I knew the leak originated near the fuel pump, but was fearing the worst, head gasket. This was one of the last of 25 pages of doing a search for "oil leak" that I read. Decided to go check those bolts, YES! I had loosened the bolt to adjust the alternator but forgot to tighten it. The others in the sane vicinity were a bit loose also. Took it for a drive, no more leak.

Mr. Beck, You're correct in stating that Nissan didn't use any 1973 model year cars in the Z Store program. One can only imagine the confusion and delay that would have caused! However they did use - how many I have no way of knowing, more on this subject later - 1972 model year cars that required what I call "late 72" door jamb ID plates. Nissan sent me one of each of the plates they wanted me to reproduce. These were not new unstamped plates but used plates which were in good enough condition to serve as models for reproduction. I assume(ed) that they had come off of the cars they, Nissan, had purchased for the program. After a 1 year apprenticeship followed by 10 years as a Datsun dealer mechanic - no, not a "tech" - I opened Banzai Motorworks in the summer of 1980. From that time until I closed my shop on 12/1/23 I retained copies of ALL of the repair orders I wrote. If stacked up they would have been 2+ feet tall. They all had production dates and VINs. From time to time I referred to those ROs whenever an anomaly got in my shop - saw a few of those - or a parts customer had a question or concern about where his/her car fit in the pantheon. A handful of those cars had 4 or 5 of 72 production dates and "late" 72 door jamb ID plates. Ran into this with a recent ID plate order. As I remember his is 5/72. There is a lot of info/static about how many cars Nissan bought for the Z Store program, how many they planned to restore or how many were restored. However, I can state as FACT that they, Nissan, ordered 50 of everything I reproduced for them. That fact, and the first, second and third paragraphs of this rant, I'm comfortable standing behind. Why because, unlike the originators of so much of the disinformation surrounding the program, I was there as a direct participant. Cheers

This is AI playing a game... https://apnews.com/video/beijing-hosts-chinas-first-fully-autonomous-3-on-3-ai-robot-soccer-match-e304c40f16684667a9c35a73ab8e5b31

I don't believe that can happen for the North American market 240Z. The brake light and turn signals share the same bulb for the rears. Look at the turn signal switch. That's where it happens. You can make an adapter plug, but you have to add a wire for the brake lights.

Both upper reds operate as side lights and brake lights.

Both of those plates are for 72, so it wasn't the very early cars. Maybe the GVWR wasn't increased for the car itself... Maybe they were increased for the change in American drivers. 😄

Knock knock? Who’s there? Duffy. Duffy who? @duffymahoney Finally got around to posting a picture. Just have to slightly enlarge the mounts for the heater hose.

Wow! Did these restores actually increase the weight of the car by 420Lbs? Or is the right hand plaque in the picture for another car?

One of the Restoration Program Z's is up on BaT. Bring a TrailerVintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Vintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #199,214.

Peanuts anyone?

IMO this is AI playing a game.

Very nice photo's. Looks nice I made a document in 2014 to help explain the differences between thre three versions used in the North American 280Z and 280ZX. BTW My photos are crap conpared to yours.

Here are the dimensions.