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He sold it yesterday for 1500$ He did good !

There's no security problem and a chat bot has not taken over the site. lol Our SSL certificate expired the other day and was renewed within an hour. Basically, cert services can no longer offer automatic certificate renewals and must be manually renewed by yours truly. Our website runs all pages through secure (HTTPS) so none of your data can be viewed by a man in the middle. It takes manual intervention to keep a site like this online. :)

It should be a wire coming off the Accessory Relay. In the 73, it's a blue wire. YMMV according to discussions I've seen on this board in the past. Look at where the Accessory Relay plugs into the wiring harness. One of those wires should be going to the center stack with a bullet connector.

My battery cables? I was poking around online and discovered these things called "military battery terminals". Sometimes also called "Marine". The neat part is the basic shape is similar to the OEM lugs, so on a whim, I bought a cheap set off Amazon. So the shape is similar to OEM, but they use a bolt/nut to hold a cable onto the lug. They look like this: Then I removed the original bolt and threaded the hole that the bolt goes through. My first experience tapping lead. Went OK and I learned some about the process. 1) Easiest if you don't have to reverse the tap, and if you DO reverse the tap, do it often, like every half turn or so. 2) It's much easier on a (shallow) through hole because you don't have to reverse the tap, just run the tap all the way through. If the part you're tapping isn't shallow enough to do in one pass without packing the flutes and binding, then you're going to have to reverse the tap, which is a PITA because you have to do it so often. So, all that said... I took the bolt out and tapped the hole: Then I made a brass threaded insert on the lathe: I bought a length of battery wire off ebay. Came with lugs crimped on both ends. I got 5/16 hole on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut that piece of wire in half (so now I have two lengths with different holes on the ends. Larger for the starter mounting bolt, and smaller for the starter solenoid connection. Stripped back the insulation on the ends, and inserted the cable strands into the brass piece I made: I used a small torch to solder the cable into the threaded insert: Looks like this after sodering: Screwed the threaded brass into the lead lug, and a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have this: It's not OEM or one of the aftermarket replicas, but it cost a grand total of maybe thirty bucks in parts*. *And at least six hundred dollars in unrealized labor cost. Hahahaha!!!

320 In the tunnel there is a threaded rod that attaches the cable yoke to the handle. There are actually two threaded connections if you need it. You need to thread it out to get enough slack. Then you can adjust it to where it holds in about 5 or 6 clicks Datsun Z Hand Brake & Hand Brake Cable#20 and #11 both have threads and locknuts

Did you see where this thread ended up? Once the thread's purpose is served why not use it to have a conversation? Nothing wrong with that.

We love having you here Cliff!

Killl...kiiilll...KILLLL

Now the gentleman has requested I find him a Z ! He says his budget is 35-45k . I should be able to find something nice enough in that range I believe .

I sold the car and apparently the buyer is sending it to England for restoration.

I have a number of cars that sit for long periods of time. I use non ethanol fuel and Stabil. Typically keep the tanks full, to help with condensation. Rare for me to have a fuel issue and some may sit for 2 or more years, but I try to get fresh fuel in them yearly.

😔

Do you have so little $^!# to do in life that you sit and talk to yourself on some shabby forum?

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

It may well be, but this is a homemade example. The correct tool follows the same rough design, the "cut-out" on the board show the shape and has provision to fit a 3/8 or 1/2 socket drive. The was one on Yahoo auctions a week or two ago...

Yes, a very near solution! More lathe envy...

I believe, the unusual shaped wrench about halfway down on the right side is for valve adjustment to tighten and loosen the lock nuts. The other below it may be for holding the adjusting nut while tightening

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

That person made a wise decision!!!

35-45 buys alot more car these days than it did two years ago

I'm with Zed Head. That thing is all kinds of wired wrong. There is no reason to have two ballast resistors. I'd start over and clean that all up. To help the process... Is the "three pin connector" a stock connector, or is that something that came with the unilite? Can you provide the wire colors going to that connector?

That crack is original, not aftermarket. lol

Great that you got your tank coated, hopefully it will work fine for many years. As far as your intake manifold goes, I've seen that rot hole happen more than a few times through the years. What I do is cut off the egr section of the intake and I weld an aluminum plate on top of the hole eliminating any problem in the future. I have to do that with the manifold on the bench, it can't be done while it's still in the car. Then you need to weld shut the tube going to the exhaust manifold or better yet install a header like you already did. If anyone wants me to weld up their intake you'd have to send it to me. See attached pics. I do have lots of used intakes in stock so I can weld mine up and send it to you, then you send me your old one. That way your car doesn't have to be laid up for awhile. Or I could sell you an intake that is intact and doesn't have a rot hole. As far as your header goes, as long as you don't have an auto trans you're best bet on the header is using a 6 into 1, not a 6, 2, 1. I have a ceramic coated 6 into 1 header with round ports in stock hanging on the wall waiting to be sold if anybody needs one. The one in the pic is just like it except that one is alumacoated whereas the one I have hanging on the wall looks like chrome. see pic Z man of Washington

Kinda makes me gag to look at the pictures. Is that Bat or Bird...patina?

Great patina. Clean the glass and give it a quick clear coat and it would be as good as new.............ran when parked!

That picture is wild and fun story - thanks for sharing

My 240 had almost a pound of rust and crud. Tank cleaned up beautifully and I haven't had any issues since I coated it with Red-Kote. I'd already done the tank on my 280 and was anxious to do the 240 then I realized all the hoses and the evap tank I needed to replace. What a job that turned into! For my 280 I think I bought the last Bosch OE fuel pump in 2011 thinking that was my problem. Oh boy was I wrong! A lot of other problems with the EFI were ahead but I got it all worked out and made a fuel rail for it and put in a 6to1 ceramic coated header. The EGR was clogged up and caused a huge rotting hole in my aluminum intake manifold. It runs good now but only after adding a potentiometer to add more fuel to the ECU's coolant temp sensor function. I've got the OE pump still and it works fine but newer is always better. I think it was $250? I say run it until it starts not keeping the pressure you need. These pics of my 240 tank are not indicative of the 280s tank from what I've seen with my cars.

Sounds good - I wasn't sure if that damaged it making it fail faster. Could the process of it polishing off the rust spots damage the things that spin (I don't know how these work internally)?

Holy crap, literally... That will take a week to wash... but at least give it a scrub before it goes to the crusher.

Looks like it was stored under a heron colony.

I didn't really pay attention to the two ballast resistor part. Did you buy the car with the Mallory already installed? I could imagine somebody adding a resistor if they thought the module was overheating from too much current. But it's obviously not what the instructions call for. If it was mine I'd probably start from scratch and wire it up exactly like the instructions say, and make sure that all of the connections, including the distributor ground, were clean and solid. And also measure maximum charging voltage at RPM above idle speed. The external regulators can allow 15 volts when they're working correctly and I assume more if they get out of adjustment. Maybe somebody tried a bunch of stuff to fix/bandaid an overvoltage problem then never removed their attempts after they fixed the real problem.

I've found most automotive electronics don't like being in the 9v range. And yes, conceivably, high resistance could lower the voltage significantly

I was thinking more about the Spiderman meme of multiple Spiderman’s pointing at each other. But you’re right. Maybe I am a bot….. Maybe you are a bot…… Maybe we all are bots living in the matrix!

I am trolling Spot the Bot. It's a new game I like instead of telling brain dead people the same stuff over and over.

I want one, Then again I want my project to be on the road also!!!

I also think it's for the AC (compressor motor switch). Nissan supplied a similar, blue-colored wire (with a bullet-style connector) for that purpose as part of the Z's mini-harness (Item #13 in the diagram above).

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

My early wiring diagram shows a red wire coming off the accessory relay connected to that blue wire. So I'm thinking they might have changed colors at the bullet connector. They did some weird stuff like that on the early cars. Next time I have my HVAC panel off, I'll take a look, but it might be a couple days.

@captainobvious Nice work Bruce, What gauge cable did you use?

@SteveJ

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

You might remember that recently, I picked up another vintage Datsun tool Board, to the one I already had. Soon after that, a friend wrote me that he found some more. So naturally, I negotiated and was able to pick them up last week. This time, luckily, including some tools: First, I had to clean everything and sort through the boxes of tools: It included quite a funky set of homegrown tools. I wonder what purpose they were made for: Then I also spent a bit of time to remove rust and put some protective clear coat primer on the walls, to ensure they don't corrode any longer. Thanks to @Mymechanics for your support and inputs! So totally i have now 5 tool walls. That one from Germany, which is already completed and hanging in my garage, plus these four. Two Datsun ones: And two more modern ones with a Nissan branding: As you can see in the photos, many tools are there, but also many are missing. So the next step is to make an inventory of what I have and what is missing. And what the tools are for, which do not belong to these specific tool boards. Luckily, I have a lot of original Datsun / Nissan / Kent-Moore / SPX documentation about those tools, and what cars / Engines / transmissions they are intended for. And my latest acquisition also included a more modern Nissan / SPX / Kent-Moore booklet, which is nice for the Nissan branded boards: I was lucky to already find some of the missing tools. But that's only a fraction. Some of the tools will be tricky to find and might take me a few months / years to come accross. Overall, I'm quite happy. I have to find a nice place for the Datsun branded walls, and with the Nissan ones I yet have to decide if I keep them as decoration or if I sell them, if the right person comes along. Either way, it was a great find, but still some homework ahead to figure out what all these tools are used for, which car models they fit and what is missing.

If I were looking for a Z this car fits the bill. Probably scary fun to drive. In the comments it sounds like the seller is upfront about some things that need to be fixed like the power steering.

Zed Head- Amen

I swapped out the 160 thermostat for a 180, and here's where the gauge stabilized. Higher than the 160 thermostat (duh), but still lower than I was running with NO thermostat and the old questionable radiator. Good deal! Here's where I am now:

Leave it alone and keep keep an eye on the pre & post filters IMO.

This carries on from a old thread; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/22164-260z-in-japan/#comment-188206 As HS30-H says in the thread, the Japanese market 260z sold cars were recalled, so I presume anything specifically related to this model, the Fairlady 260z, wouldn't have sold in any great quantity. Well, I spotted these on Yahoo auctions Japan a few weeks ago, and I presume these are for this recalled model;

Very interesting. One of the cool things about this forum is the new things you learn each day and enhance your knowledge. Very cool.