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  1. Maybe 11:27:16. That gets the hands less than .05 degrees out from 180...
  2. For someone with deep pockets, sure! Maintenance is the issue. Parts are restricted and hard to access. For the price, that’s a good deal. Keep in mind a new track is about $25,000.... they last about a year on asphalt. Edit: about 2000km on asphalt... even we don’t drive them that much. We use the M113a variant still along with the TLAV.
  3. Agree. The whole engine really needs a good checking. Obviously it's got problems. If there's one there might be others. Best start with the basics and run through the list.
  4. Work has slowed down and since I dont have the cash for a respray I’m doing some of the work myself. Will have it resprayed completely some day. The car was resprayed at some point and the color is not factory. I had a match done but it’s not going to be spot on. The under side of the hood was pretty ratty so I started there. I also water sanded the top side of the hood and it’s looking much better. Also got a few more parts to complete the engine compartment.
  5. Here is an old pic of my yellow 1970 which I owned back in the 70's. The orange one is an early 1971 series one I just picked up a few months ago.
  6. Haha, you guys pay far more attention to the background than I give you credit for. 😄
  7. Portland Oregon, Craig's list. Search, Datsun. There's a fellow in Carson Washington that advertises "Classic Car Hubcaps- All Original - $75 (Carson)". Post #6752202200. He has a collection of center caps from the old Datsun mags. Good luck.
  8. I think I could use one of those for my SoCal freeway drive to the in-laws for Thanksgiving later today. Dennis
  9. https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/datsun-rising-peter-brock-bre-datsun-240z/
  10. Pacific Standard Time of course for Seattle.
  11. I need to remember to archive that photo. Of course, I was hoping you'd see this thread and post that photo.
  12. The distributor is WAY out of wack here. Please note in the attached photo where the vacuum advance is on my distributor (ZX distributor). You need to take a few steps back. Make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke, align the oil pump properly and re-install the distributor. Did your car always have the ZX distributor, or did you do the conversion? Was a ZX distributor mounting block used?
  13. Good luck and here's to hoping it's not serious.
  14. I'm on the same page with you guys. My brother is an accomplished mechanic, but new to the Z world. We'll crack it open over this holiday period and I'll report back. Thanks again for everyone who helped out.
  15. That is correct. The gauge should read F if the sender wires are shorted together. Just make sure you're shorting the correct two wires together. Don't do something like accidently short your fuel pump wires together. Make sure you have the fuel gauge wires.
  16. They're cheap and probably available at one of your local parts stores. I searched on 280Z but 280ZX is the same. The small ring seals, the big top ring applies the downward force and vibration damping. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/standard-intermotor-5820/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-injection-16471/fuel-injector-seal-o-ring-kit-12312/ee721b9bfdb5/standard-intermotor-fuel-injector-seal-kit/sk4/6017490/1976/nissan/280z?q=injector+seals&pos=3 https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/1976/nissan/280z?q=injector+seals
  17. The injectors have O-rings. Also, the plastic pieces that fit over each injector might be broken. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  18. Here's a picture taken in the mid-to-late 1970's at the Aurora Mall with a dark-colored 280Z and a light-colored 280Z 2 +2 parked in the lot behind the VW Fastback. Aurora is a suburb of Denver and the picture is courtesy of the Aurora History Museum.
  19. Over hoping? Yup. Just the Pollyanna in me. But the realist in me would be pulling the valve cover, taking a good look at the cam and valve train. Adjusting the valves and retesting.
  20. If you started the compression test with #1, #1 and #2 may be reading lower because the engine didn't have any oil pressure at first. When I start with #1 and test them all, I usually go back and retest #1 and #2 again and usually find the compression has gone up. Did you reset the valves before the latest test?
  21. That thing is chunky! 😄 I got it from a big automotive trimming supplier in Sydney. You are looking for a Micro Suede.
  22. Oh yeah.... They'll be trashed. All good. Thats a simple shape and id feel better with fresh rails anyway. 47 year old car..... Its old. When I get it dipped I'll post photos.
  23. Keep in mind that insurance is all about managing risk - so the difference between a Yearly Premium of $135.00 or $450.00 could be because of different age drivers, location of the car, and Liability Coverage - $50K/$100K will be quite a bit less than $300K/$1M. Then you have to add any "options" you select. Hagerty has road side assist that dispatches tow trucks equipped to handle Classic Cars etc, then there are insurance for things like spare parts and the cars contents etc. So basically the only way to compare rates for you - is get quotes for you, in your area etc. Otherwise the numbers can be very misleading. I've been with a couple different Classic Car insurance carriers - been with Hagerty since they agreed to insure our Original Owners 240z's with much higher Agreed Values than any other company would at the time.. plus they have an excellent reputation for Paying Claims.
  24. Looks like a fabulous tool, but not a casual purchase at US$1,500 (plus tax, duty and shipping). Which to buy first: plasma cutter? oxy-acetylene kit? floor lift? induction-heating fastener remover?
  25. This picture was sent to me today by a Porsche friend. Yes, it’s from an advert for the 300ZX. But this pic is framed on his wall in his office. He’s the architect who designed the Thousand Oaks Public Library and the photo shoot for the ad was shot after the building was done on the outside. Tom got to be there for the photo shoot as he was the architect for the building.


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