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Haha!! How far from the original subject do we want to stray? With apologies to the OP....... I've got a 6th gen Civic (96-00). I always hated the steering ratio. Always felt like I needed to readjust my hands in the middle of a turn because I needed more wheel rotation. Got fed up one day and started experimenting... The pinion gear on the end of the power steering spool valve has eight teeth. The similar pinion gear from a third gen Integra (93-97) has NINE teeth (one more than the Civic). Problem is the spool valve bodies are different so you can't just toss the whole Integra body onto the Civic steering rack. However after poking around with both of them in my laboratory, I determined that the GUTS are interchangable. So it's a "simple matter" of pressing both valve assemblies apart and reassembling the Civic valve body using the Integra spool valve. Then reattach the modified spool valve onto the original steering rack and put in back in the car. "A child could do it." Take the valve off the rack: Pressing a spool valve apart on the hydraulic press: Spool valves. Integra on top. Civic on bottom. Note that the Integra has a tighter pitch on the gear: Pinion gears. Civic on left. Teg on right: How did it turn out? Fantastic. Would I do it again? If I had the sub-frame out - Maybe. If I wasn't going in for something else? - Absolutely not.

Finally got around to do the Honda wiper motor swap after my original died. In typical fashion, I took a relatively easy job and turned it into a multi day event but like everyone says, it was well worth it!

Possibly nitrous oxide (NOS). Also possibly water vapor injection.

You'll see it kinda boucing around the cam lobes when the caps off. It's not going to shoot out like crazy if the car's idling.

Ah. thanks i will get that gauge and retry things

Havent opened the oil cap while running will try that next. when i unthreaded the gauge i was using oil came out... i wouldnt say a lot but some did.

That's a compression gauge isn't it? You can get an 1/8 npt at Lowe's in the swimming pool section. My local store has one up to 60 psi but that's high enough. The oe dash cluster gauge only goes to 90. With a high volume turbo pump on my pretty fresh 2.4 it pegs the high side while driving. Idles at half gauge. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Aqua-EZ-Pressure-Gauge/3151541

If I'm understanding correctly, no it's not normal. Have you looked in the oil filler cap with the engine running? Are you seeing oil slinging around? Did the oil pour our of the hole where the oil sender was threaded when you unthreaded it?

Thank you for all the helpful info I really appreciate it. Looks like I've got a lot of reading to do. I will post the results.

The turn signal switch changed between 73 and 74 when Nissan switched to separate bulbs for the brake lights and turn signals. The GB on #18 and the RB should go like this: See the diagram above. The RB and RW wires have to meet up with each other on the 3 pin connector. The third wire is for the horn. Wires from 3, 17, and 18 are all grounded. I don't have a photo available to show this. (That also goes to question 2.) It should be a single black wire from the turn signal switch to the headlight switch side. The white wire going to pin #14 on the switch is the power for the turn signals downstream from the turn signal flasher. Yes, the wires are reversed between the wiring harness and the switch. The yellow/blue wire from the 74 wiper controls goes to a yellow/blue in the 74 dash harness and over to the intermittent relay.

That IS the issue . It seems that EPDM O-rings are what’s best for brake fluid . Then you need the exact size . I believe the seal need to be 6x10x2

Happy life? Bring the wife!

What is the timing at idle and at 3,000 RPM? Have you checked the valve lash?

That green Z would have at least had 10-15K more in bid momentum a year ago. The S30 is still somewhat within the reach of mere mortals, but the same demographic is being impacted more by the sour economy than the Ferrari and Lamborghini crowd. Moreover, the liquidation of the Prancing Horse Z collection on Bring a Trailer about a month ago probably scratched the immediate itch of any serious Z collectors with deep pocket for the near term.

RIP - David Crosby A great loss to the music world. Founding member of the Byrds w/Roger Mcguinn and then again with CSN and CSNY. A sad day for sure.

Thanks- I ordered the ignition module from them. Hopefully will fix it or maybe some part of the issue. I started it again today and it ran well. No smoke and it revs nicely. It idles at 750 to 825 or so rhythmically. Starts very easily. I will change out the ignition module and report the results. Electrical intermittent problems drive me crazy. Should I remove the fuel pressure regulator to check if it is leaking? I pulled the hose off on top and it looked dry-really hard to tell if it is leaking by looking in the hole.

Okay, I'm getting close to being done with this diagram, and I have found a number of errors in my tables that I will fix once I have this all sorted out, but I could use some help on the current blocker that I have not been able to figure out. I am cleaning up the part of the diagram that shows how the Combination and Turn Signal Switches connect to the harnesses in the dash, and I have a few wires I cannot account for. I want to thoroughly understand this because I want to swap this TS switch out for one from a 260Z that I bought from @jfa.series1 for reasons I won't get into here. Here are the connectors coming off the switches (sorry about the shadow): 1 x 9-pin (9 wires) 1 x 6-pin (5 wires) 1 x 3-pin (3 wires) 1 x Large female spade (heavy gauge black wire) 1 x Medium female spade (heavy gauge black wire) 1 x Small female spade (thin gauge green wire) 1 x Male bullet (medium gauge black wire) 1 x Male bullet (thin gauge black wire) 1 x Male bullet (medium gauge white wire w/ red stripe) 1 x Female bullet (medium gauge red wire) Here's the diagram I am working on showing the harness and switches connectors: You can see all the things I am trying to untangle highlighted on the diagram in red: Is the Green/Black wire coming from #18 on the turn signal actually the Green wire with the small spade connector on my turn signal switch and goes to the horn relay? Do both Red/White wires on the Light & Horn Switch connector go to #15, or does the second, unaccounted for wire go to #17 and just isn't represented in the diagram? These are identical between the 1973 and 1974 switches, although the 1974 has a Green/Black wire coming from #16 rather than a Red/Black wire. Are the two black wires with the bullet connectors actually the black wires in the diagram that connect #s 3, 8, 17, and 18? If so, what do they connect to, given they are both male?I have two black wires I can't account for on the harness (one female bullet connector and one female spade connector). I had incorrectly labeled these as for the Door Switch. I am pretty sure the second black wire with the spade connector that I have labeled as "Combination Switch XYZ" is actually a duplicate of the one labeled "Turn Signal Switch A" with the white wire and connects #14 to the turn signal flasher. The Green/White and Green/Blue wires (#1 & #2) on the Combination Switch connectors are reversed from where they are on the harness connector. There is a Yellow/Blue wire on the Combination Switch connector that isn't in the wiring diagram. It comes out of the back of the white box on the switch opposite the Yellow/Black wire, which is also not in the diagram. The wire on the harness in the corresponding position to the Y/L one is Blue/White and goes to the intermittent relay, and the wire on the harness in the corresponding position to the Y/B one is also Y/B and goes to a Blue wire on the engine harness running to the wiper motor. I'm pretty sure the rest of the stuff I have captured in the diagram is correct. If anyone has any insights into what's going on here, I would love to hear them! @SteveJ @Zed Head @siteunseen

There are a couple of people in the Atlanta area I would trust. If there's someone near you, @Patcon might know. I don't know if the Upstate Z Car Club still exists, but if they do, someone there may know, too.

Discussion? Pictures?

Well that's my DD and not supposed to be the project, so I put as little time and effort into it as I can. LOL! So... The answer to the question about what engine did I put back in is "The same one that came out." I only pulled it because it needed work done on multiple sides of the engine and at that point I thought it was just simpler to pull the whole thing and do everything with the engine out. Belt side needed new timing belt. Bottom side needed oil pan gasket. Rear side needed new engine mount (taught kid how to drive stick). Transmission side needed new main seal and clutch, etc. So since I needed to work on left, right, rear, and bottom, I just pulled the whole thing out to do the work. I did do one "bonus" item... I pulled the subframe and put in an Integra steering gear for a faster steering ratio. But that car is not the project.

The enemy of good is better. I'm not sure how things snowballed but now I'm here - and loving every minute of it. So far I've burned in: Inner /outer rocker panels on the driver's side Inner dogleg lower on the driver's side Rear driver's wheel tub Driver's floor, frame rail, toe boards, and rear quarter are next. Then onto the passenger! Question for those of you that have put your Z's on a rotisserie: I need to replace the passenger chasis rail (that connects the firewall to the radiator support). Can I do that on the rotisserie? Or would you recommend it on jackstands/a jig if I can make one?

D'oh! I missed the hint. You know I'll help. It's more a matter of scheduling than anything else.

Good stuff. The stock D16 is a great reliable engine, but just lacks the power I believe the car deserves. I got a good deal on a Japanese market B20B with higher compression(non- VTEC). Somewhere around $600 for all the parts to convert it plus timing belt water pump etc. Not trying to divert too far away from Z car subject matter, but what engine did you put in yours?

Thanks for the offer bud! Appreciate it!

Covers space for left and right parking light switches on JDM cars. Picture courtesy of @HS30-H

You aren't giving us much in the way of details here.

This looks similar to what you have. Forced induction. You can see the plumbing running from the exhaust in front of the rad (intercooler) and all the way around to the carb.

To put this to bed, I was able to use both left and right rear brake calipers from my parts car. I re-sealed them with the kits from Rockauto and they are doing just fine. Forgot to take pictures. That parts cars has payed off in dividends for sure. I've been diverting funds into the engine swap on my Civic so the free(or $20 in seals)repairs on the Z are most welcome.

Glow shift gauges sells a tee where you can run both the factory sending unit and the manual gauge at the same time. Works great

I agree…..Most of the oil pressure gauges seem to read low, especially at idle. Unscrew the the oil filler cap on the valve cover when she’s running. You’ll make a mess if she’s got oil pressure. 🤪

Here's something for 240260280 Blue. Not music though.

I can live with it idling like it does. M biggest problem is lack of confidence that I will make it back to the garage. The last two trips ended up with a wrecker. Why does it run well for a while and then either stalls, stops or runs terribly and smokes a lot ? I think there could be an electrical component that breaks down with load or heat. The fuel tank is fine. Installed a new stock fuel pump and filter. I bought a new ICU, all new relays, cleaned the grounds. I am very open to suggestions or ideas. I brought it to a local sports car shop. They have a very good reputation but if the tech can't hook a computer to it they don't know where to turn. Thank you for your post. Curt