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I changed it to 4.5. For the 240 police, fix it tickets I received. I will stay in 240z detention for the rest of the weekend. 🙄

Okay so here are my test runs today. I swapped out the Nissan E12-92 for a different one. Second one ran worse it was also as 92 not 80, third one is an aftermarket one (92) and ran well so the tests were done with that module against the HEI. Both ran well, but the HEI idles smoother and I feel the acceleration is cleaner or smoother. See for yourself below.

In North America, they were introduced for the 1970 model year even though the official introduction was in 1969 with the idea that orders were taken for a January 1970 delivery. But since you asked, and we are kicking around the differences between "model years", a 1969 build car has several differences from what is considered a "series one" HLS30 by the masses on BaT. I don't know how they would reconcile the discovery of the differences in the real early production cars. So I have to change my answer. See Car's post below.

Hi , I visited Takeuchi san and confirmed his Z432-R also has beautiful front center tip. Nissan genuine FRP bonnet has exactly the same beautiful shape but different structures on the back .You will see some aftermarket FRP ones which are available today have very different structures, i.e. they just copied steel original. Probably it was almost impossible to use genuine Z432-R bonnet as a sample ? One thing we noticed , overall width is slightly narrower than steel ones. Shrunk? Or is this a normal genuine one ? Alan can tell us about it, please join. Kats

Hi Kats, sorry I'm a little late responding to your question. In 1988 I replaced my fuel tank with a new one from my local Nissan dealership, so it does have the extra vent lines but they were capped off at installation. It doesn't have a reservoir tank at the right rear quarter or the fuel flow guide valve or extra line. It does have the original single groove harmonic balancer pulley.

Mart the 280zx is brilliant! I did the manual swap, installed a fidanza aluminum flywheel while I was in there, completely changes the car having the manual and the flywheel makes it rev much more freely. I’ve been driving it at least once a week and I love it. also installed the recaro LX. Makes a huge difference to spirited driving as I’m not struggling to stay in my seat anymore! If the 240z defeats me I’d love to do a turbo build on the zx. It’s just such a great car, just needs more power to overcome the extra weight!

You’re right patcon they are rare over here and even more so in Western Australia. good news though is I already have a donor roof! I have thought about buying another one but any car I buy will probably be restored, not many survivor cars this neck of the woods, and so I will have no idea what’s under the paint or the quality of the repairs and just find myself back where I started. With a rusty Datsun. Plus I would be spending a minimum of 40,000 to 50,000. The cheap unfinished projects are extremely rare in my state.

The point of my post was to show the word Nissan and S30 were on both cars mentioned, not to sell a shoddy plate. I just grabbed the first picture that came up on eBay. If someone was looking for a plate I would send them your way no question.

$21,750 for a sketchy 71 240Z, modified, no ID plates visible. There is no predicting the market value of a 240Z.

We're they ever called a 1969 240z?

Yes you’ve mentioned this, I must remember to type my post out here and then copy to my Aussie forum. But surely this is an easy fix for whoever is managing the site?

Hi Patcon , here are some Fairlady Z series’s wiring , hope it helps you a bit . Kats

Haha this is funny, cause it's confusing my dad all the time. In his memory he makes the 280ZX the 280Z. Then I tell him there never was a 280Z here haha. Alot of people confuse the 280Z and ZX cause the name 280.. I think

Hmmm. Yes, S30-series is S30-series, but maybe you are forgetting (or didn't understand?) the point made previously; that 'S30' is both the series designator AND the chassis prefix for the 'base' models - S30-D 'Nissan Fairlady Z-L' and S30-S 'Fairlady Z'? And this whole line of conversation sprang from people trying to make sense of the 'Series 1', 'Series 1.5', 'Series 2' et al vernacular terms and the continuing confusion between 'Model Year' and manufacturing date. Yet that is all - largely - a local, North American phenomenon. The point being made was that 'Series 1' etc is probably not a judicious choice of retrospective denomination when the factory had already used it... Nobody, nobody!, even the "woke police" (pfft...) is telling you that you can't call your 'Datsun 240Z' a 'Datsun 240Z', or your 'Datsun 260Z' a 'Datsun 260Z'. Meanwhile people will - I guarantee! - continue to use the term '240Z' to describe a whole family of S30-series variants being conceived in 1967, designed and engineered through 1968, then produced and finally put on sale in 1969. A tap on the shoulder from the Z Police would then be in order...

This is how I fixed mine.

This reproduction ID plate is a MESS! Just look at the type style, etc. Nissan Motor Corp wouldn't have found it acceptable for the Z Store program.

I have this one available. I washed some dirt off and gave it a quick polish. Not show quality but usable.

A patina mobile. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-83 Hey, it’s got a helical diff. Might be a good candidate for a full makeover if the price doesn’t get too high.

I think you can remove it from the jacket, clean it and grease it. Or you can make a funnel on one end and soak it in oil

This modified 71 is probably going to outdo the "early 71 Series I" 240Z. It has fender flares! Eeeewww.... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-231/

In my never ending quest to find parts that no one seems to be looking for, I finally found what seems to be a good replacement for the single filament (1156 style) bulb sockets for the tail lights and reverse lights. The Dorman 84808 fits snugly in the tail light housing. You can find them on Amazon and Rockauto. I'm going to get a Dorman S847 to see if it's a suitable replacement for the 1157 sockets.

Really...this has become laughable! Calling a car by the badge on the outside is a problem, the woke police taking over yet again. It says Datsun 240Z on the outside so that's what I have.

Or lonely shut-in living in his mother's basement and reaching out for social contact from a caring classic Japanese car enthusiasts group. We'll probably never know.

Bottom line? Duplicolor 261413 Metallic Carbon Mist. Top coat with Krylon Colormax 53530 Flat Clear. More detail? My first attempt was BFM0360 Ford Dark Shadow Gray. The basic color was good, but it really lit up when light hit it. In other words, it looked pretty good in certain lights, but in other more direct light, it didn't look so great. Looked way too light. My second attempt was Duplicolor 244228 Metallic Charcoal, and pretty much the same problem as the Ford Dark Shadow Gray. It looked good in the shade, but when light hit it from the right (or wrong?) angle, it was way off from stock. My third and final attempt was Duplicolor 261413 Metallic Carbon Mist. I found this paint looks good in both sun and shade and does not "light up" like most of the other metallic options (like the Dark Shadow Gray). I would recommend this color over all of the other previously discussed varieties. Of course, it really doesn't mean much unless I could compare it to a stock colored panel, but I don't have one here. Anyway, it looks like this. This is in the shade with no flash: In the shade with flash. Note how the reflectors in the taillights and the license plate lit up with the flash, but the panel did not: And in the sun. Half direct sun, and half shade-ish:

More specifically, NMC USA - either officially or semi-officially ("come and take this damaged car away...") - provided a handful of HLS30Us to race teams in the USA. Bob Sharp's first car appears to have been a personal deal between Kawazoe san, via Usami san, and Sharp. A damaged show car, no less. You're projecting quite a lot here. Your "...not fit for the purpose" is doing a lot of heavy lifting (some understatement here...). Says who? The cars in question were not provided or sold as race cars. You might as well point out that the fuel tanks, suspension, brakes, transmissions, differentials, wheels, tyres and cigarette lighters were also "...not fit for purpose" in race cars. These were road cars and they required preparation even for production-class racing. The other cars they were competing with often had their own weak spots and requirements for evolutionary parts, even the Porsches. As far as I understand it, the crankshafts suffered from a harmonic (something very common in straight sixes) which caused damage to flywheel bolts, flywheels and clutches under prolonged high rpm use. The crankshafts themselves did not "break" and they were - clearly - being expected to perform far beyond their original design parameters. So, yes. Hardly Nissan Japan's fault. Without knowing what was going on between NMC USA and NMC Japan - remembering that we are constantly told that the L24 was specified "for the USA" in a car that was "designed for the USA" and that the engine was the personal choice of Yutaka Katayama, which is of course nonsense - I'd say it is jumping to conclusions to blame the engineers back in Japan. That's a fairly simplistic - if not bowdlerised - version of events. Plenty of details on these cars were subject to evolution, improvement and supersession. Mr Brock and his followers may well believe that his employees 'discovered' a design fault and were part of the cure, but Nissan were already on the case - just as they were with many other details on the cars. If you follow the part numbers, the homologations and supersessions they give a good picture of what was going on crankshaft-wise, particularly when you look at homologated crankshaft weights. You seem to want to paint the early L24 crankshafts as some kind of mistake, but I believe you need to take other factors - not least production costings, late specification of a sedan engine for a sports car due to the need to mitigate power-sapping anti-pollution devices and the whole question of who was in charge/responsible for the specifications in the first place. Apparently NMC USA and their president get to collect plaudits for success but dodge any finger of blame for perceived problems? Meanwhile, those same engineers at Nissan were planning and developing their Works race and rally LR24 engines... E3141 8-bolt crankshafts with sufficient counterweighting for competition use, made from higher strength steel (NCM45) than the stock L24 crankshafts:

Arne has a good thread on installing JDM lights.

@moelk did this recently. he may have some advice?

Nice. Take a picture of the connector that the sockets go to. Since it has lamp sockets, it's most likely just a matter of modifying the connector at the steering column, running the wire in the dash harness and body harness, and maybe changing the connectors at the taillights to work with the modifications. As I said before, since the harnesses are not likely in the car, the wire can be run and wrapped into the harnesses. No cutting, no slashing, no ring around the collar.

Lamp sockets

As the subject of tool boxes has been touched on, this is on its way from Japan as we speak... a Nissan tool bag, and the seller put some tools in for free.

Kats, My 1969 Patrol L60 has a 3.956 L pushrod motor. (The L Series is a "modern" engine, never envisioned by the Patrol designers.) Keith

This one is already up to $15,000. Funny though, the guy has been driving it with no air filters. Had the carbs rebuilt, just never put the filters back on.