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A package arrived from France the other day.

Alright folks, everything is in. I’ll let the seal gasket dry overnight and will try to put mount to the car. The darn thing is heavy as a whole unit. Shifting is smooth and tight. The plastic shifter bushing is ordered and on its way.

Some progress of my 2146 . I took off radiator, A/C units , exhaust, etc . This car had been serviced in the US, I found I needed tools for inches. So many bolts and nuts were used in inches, especially for the A/C system and the exhaust system which were installed in a shop there . I am going to pull out the engine soon , exciting! Kats

No need to balance an engine for 7000 rpm. One more thing. If you install a Stage III cam, you’ll need to geometry the cam with .160 to .180 lash pads (center the wipe pattern on the rockers) but in the E88 head, you’ll also need the shorter valve seals to prevent the valve retainers from contacting the seals with the higher lift. If you guys are doing this build, you’ll need to seek advice as you progress from those on this site that have done this before.

By "low, or no, speed" I meant when parking or maneuvering in and out of tight parking spaces at speeds under one mile per hour due to the increased size of the rubber to pavement contact patch. Once the car gets rolling, steering effort seems no different than with original width tires and acceleration is what it is with a 50 year old sports car.

I have the 15" Konigs on my '71 Z with the tire size you mentioned earlier. They fill the wheel wells nicely with no rub. Steering effort at low, or no, speed is more difficult than with the original 14s and narrower tires. For me, it was a good upgrade.

My Stompers all came with foam and rubber. I think I ran rubber on most of them.

Late thought edit: To keep from whizzing off all my buddies that run 16s on 240s I could have gotten a smaller side wall tire. I'll include the sizes when I get back. I really like the 15s with Hankook 205/55-15 (I think ) on my 240 though. Shameless show off... Those are 14s on the slots back there on that red one BTW.

Hi Ian , you study Kanji , that is a great thing. If I were you , I would not have had that motivation for additional new language 😅 The emissions decal , that is a part two of emissions programs of the Japanese government. The part one was January 1973 , all cars needed to reduce 3 degrees of ignition timing . The part two was February 1973 , all cars had to have the green ball to reduce the ignition timing. The part three was March 1973 , almost all cars had to have new carbs , canisters, reservoir fuel tank etc at assembly lines ( S20 cars didn’t) . After March 1973 , when at a periodical maintenance and a Shaken inspection ( required by the government) , all cars had to have the green ball even if the car was made before January 1973 . My Fairlady 240ZG still has the green ball , but I can’t feel loss of enjoyment. My Z432 , I didn’t want it so get rid of it . Today at the required inspection, the green ball doesn’t have to be there , I don’t know why . Maybe it was a recommendation? Kats

The correct bolt pattern is ... 4 x 114.3 I would give 16 x 7" wheels serious consideration, tire selection is much better than 15" Most people choose the wheels first, then look at tires. A great tire size on 16" wheels is 205 x 55 x 16. Very close to OEM diameter and no rubbing.

PRC

believe me, when you're motivated, you'll get thing done rather quickly. Beside, experts in this forum help me a lot. Cut down the time searching the net. The time it took the most actually waiting for parts, especially the left threaded main shaft nut. This is my first rebuild transmission. I used the tools I have at hand. Mostly Mineral Spirit, brake cleaner, wire brush and lots of old dirty T-Shirt. Putting back is surprising easy and fast with the mini torch to warm up the bearing. I did not do ultra sonic cleaning of the gears/synchros as I do not have the tools. Mineral Spirit works wonders on soften/breakdown the layers of old oil. Everything is at least 3 times heavier when you're under the car. I do not have the lift. And thanks God, first try I got it latch on. Thanks part to the transmission tunnel. It help keep the transmission from topple down side way. I recall when I install the differential. Though the back has more room and clearance. It took me at least 5 times to get it on. Will get the rest of the exhaust hardware install later. stay tune folks

French Jewelry!!!

Sweet, 7k is what I wanted to shoot for! Having the car die off before even hitting redline is dissatisfying. And sounds good. I have a set saved already. What valve seals do you recommend, is it the Fel-Pro #SS72686 or something else? And 100%. I will have to revive this forum and make a new one once the progress starts. Any other things that I should have done to the block that have not already been mentioned? Thanks for the info again! Okay so no balance necessary. Thats what my goal is to have a fun car that can be daily driven if needed but not get beaten by everything on the road haha. I do already have a 10lb flywheel also. The car revs nicely as is. Is it the same felpros mentioned in the forum or will anything else work nicely? I believe I saw Fel-Pro #SS72686 for the part number. Thanks for the info!

MMM, a lot of people told me they think my tires are bad but I actually drive the car pretty often so it's not sitting too long. I'll do some more testing as the weeks go by and replace the rest of the things that I have yet to in order to see what fixes it. Whats weird is hearing all these problems of rust in the floors causing shaking but when I had a hole in my floor board and frame rail I had zero shake from the steering wheel. I will 100% update what else fixes the shake on this post to help any future people who have similar problems but part of me believes the rest of the shake is potentially my driveshaft and axles even though the entire car doesn't have vibration. Gad you found your issue haha.

The benefit of the 16s is that you have a better tire selection.

Some ideas: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44553-help-me-understand-the-aar-please/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50310-a-better-auxilary-air-regulator/

I like the King Rewinds. As for 15 or 16.....i will consider 16s but just seemed like too much for my taste. just imo the 15 looked better

Colortune (finally) came in the mail yesterday. So excited to try this thing; it's been on backorder for ages. It occurred to me that given the above timing chain stretch adjustment, I probably need to do a fresh valve clearance check before I try to get the mixture really dialed in. Time to break out the feeler gauges!

Damn you're good! I never had rubber tires, they were all foam if I remember right.

C'mon Cliff, everybody knows that you don't put rubber tires on front and foam tires on the back of a Stomper! 🤣 I had the same '81 Toyota Pickup Stomper, but mine was red.

I've gotten lazy over the years after building my 2.4. I did balance the rods and piston cups out of boredom, they were very close from the factory but older 240 aren't as close as the 280s from all I've read. Anyhow the darn thing runs so good and fun to drive-iness I attribute to the 10Lb aluminum flywheel I put in. It's fast enough for my weekend drives around here. One day I'll put the e-31 and cam kit together but no rush. Anyway... Diseazd is talking about this I believe. He gets his from Eiji at Datsun Spirit I think but I bought felpros for a Ford after reading a whole helluva a lot about all this. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ My still in the bag, on the shelf with the rest of the goodies waiting for life to get back to boring.

What's your goal? Most people pick wheels first, such as Konig Rewinds at 16x7, 4x114.3, zero offset.

thanks for the help zed head, I hope I did it the right way!

well, I have been looking around captain obvious and found a 2 gang rocker switches panel mounted. the web site is parts express and the product # is 069-226. they are rated 12v/125v at 10amp.so for 12v purpose I would have no problem with them controlling relays. I did measure the console in the car where the blank plate is. it looks close to removing the 2 raised portions that represent each switch. that would give it a cleaner look and the rockers are black with white symbols. I am going to order 2, 1 for a spare as they are on clearance and they are the only switches I can find molded together and mini size. let me know what you think .

Came back to add onto something else that helped reduce the vibration. Finally replaced all 4 struts with Koni Yellow Adjustable struts. WOW! What a difference that made! I honestly think the struts I had in the car might've been the original ones from the 70s! However adding new struts reduced my vibration by about another 50%. So I'd say I only have about 15-25% of the vibration left in the steering wheel from before. Now I only feel vibration when going from approx 40mph to 60 mph but it's a lot less noticeable and doesn't really bother me at all anymore.

Cool. If you're already just controlling a relay, then a 260/280 stock defog switch will work fine. As for where to put it.... I've been messing with the same thing in recent weeks and I've tried several different configurations. I recently made an adapter plate to put one of those switches in that rightmost larger hole. But the simplest thing would be to put it horizontal in one of the two positions right below the radio. If you've got a 260, then your right side is the "CHOKE" light, and the left side is your "REAR REFOGGER" location. Maybe you could live without a defogger iindicator lamp there and use that location for your fog light switch? You still need CHOKE, but maybe you could do without the DEFOG indicator. And when I get a chance I'll take some pics of some of the other stuff I've been messing with. One of my "and after a completely unprofitable amount of hours later, I have this" kind of things.

I think the holes in the thing are slightly offset so you can't get the bolts back in if you put it in wrong as well

i decided not to drill any hole. There is already channel in the bushing body to draw oil in. Put the bushing in the freezer for few hours. Heat the tail housing a bit and use the 19mm socket for removing Honda harmonic timing belt works beautifully.

The picture I used was not from Z Car Depot but their part may very well be from the drive shaft. I think they called it a propeller shaft yoke. Anyhow, Jeffrey, you're on the right track with Terrapin.

Not sure what you mean. You might want to start another thread specifically about your issue. It might get lost here if other people start posting about their day.

Actually (sorry) the auxiliary air regulator (AAR) is what keeps idle speed up until the engine warms up a bit. Pretty common for them to be stuck open or closed and/or not have power to the heating element. There are several threads on the forum about them.

Current condition picture. New roof is welded in and I have been leading in the corners. I am removing the dash and going to send it off to Just Dashes for repair. I am going to remove all the suspension and sandblast the tub. I am debating on getting a rotisserie or a chasis dolly. I just cant decide how I want to treat the underside of the car. It is in nice condition and could probably be pressure washed and undercoated. I will make that decision later when the car is completely stripped. A little work here a little work there. Kind of jumping around scratching my chin.