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Everything posted by 240zadmire

  1. Btw, my tires are 195/70/r14 with r200 diff. The tires probably made some different but I don’t know what was the stock tires. But 1 mph error margins is precise enough for me.
  2. I did a trial and error and got the white, 19 tooth cog. The speedometer is approximately 1 mph slower. But I think it’s because I couldn’t keep my foot steady. I’m a happy camper. I know little things like this annoyed me 😉 thanks for all the suggestions
  3. It’s fixed but I don’t know if what I did actually fix it or by accident… intraced red/black stripe, red/white stripe and green/black stripe to each connector such as C6 BLACK, C9 WHITE and to the headlamp terminals for continuity …. They all have continuity on those wires. I believe the ohms for the red stripes were 1.1 and 1.2 ohms respectively. While I was proving for connectivity test on C9, I accidentally touch other terminal and case a small spark. That is the only noticeable I made. Reconnect firmly and seem like both low and high are working as expected. Still, I have no
  4. The year is on the subject line. It’s ‘77. I’ll measure it shortly stay tune
  5. Yes. The halogen h4. don’t know if they are related but most of the interior dash light bulbs including the dome light are LED except the fuel empty indicator
  6. Did the continuity test one red with black stripe against black and red with white stripe against black and has continuity when switching between high/low. I trace the wire diagram and the only missing is the inhibitor. But isn’t inhibitor is for automatic transmission? the low beam head lights both went bad the same time? I might need to get a new head lamp just for testing?
  7. Well, I took off the multi switches and did a thorough cleaning. I dismantled everything on the signal blinkers side but to no avail. I even try to jump the black and one of the red with yellow/white stripe but low beam just won’t work. Possibly the headlight low beams dead? Strange if they both dead simultaneously . Fuses are good. 12 volts at the connectors at the headlights. any thought?
  8. Hello folks, a while back I had issued with low headlights not working and thought the culprit was the battery terminal not firmly secure…. Well, the symptom resurface again. I made sure all terminal are connected firmly. High beams work fine but not low beam. I have the pen test light that connect to a negative and the pen connect to any of the 3 terminal at the head light terminals, seem to have light. My voltmeter is dead as I the battery is dead 😉 can you explain how do I read the diagram below . do I need to connect the red with black stripe to negative to
  9. Seem like my 5 speed is from a transmission type “B”. If I turn the pinion housing upside down, then the gear bites the internal worm gears. For testing, I “manufacturing” a lock washer to hold it in. The interesting thing is the speedometer is about 3-4 mph faster. So, I’m having a dilemma. The original pinion was 20 teeth and odometer is ~5mph slower. The 17 teeth pinion is ~3-4mph faster. I either need to get a blue, 18 or white, 19 teeth. the numbers stamped on the r200 shoe that my ratio should be 3.54. what do you guys think? 18 or 19? I’m leaning toward 19
  10. Well, I ordered a black version of 17 teeth and guess what? It is much smaller than the red one. Take a look at the photos. Is there more than one black 17 teeth? The black I received is about 20mm vs 24mm wide for the red one. please advice.
  11. Greeting folks, Got a chance to re-lubricate the speedometer cable and other things bother me as the mileage doesn’t seem match with the google map. Got curious, drove different car with same route and my minivan milage agreed with what google map. My Z is short a few miles. On top of that, the speed, mph is ~5 miles slower. I download the app from Apple store to measure…. got curious, did the 10 tire rotations as well as the one complete rotation and see where the shaft pointed to… both agree to be shy of 17 revolution and 3 o’clock mark. So the diff ratio is about 3.36.
  12. You’re right. Looked back at old photos and there it is. Got the hose hook to the tube and it actually quite a bit of condensation. Probably about 2 full spoons of water when park in the garage.
  13. Greeting! I skimmed the gym’s sauna last could of months by using my sauna on wheel but can’t stand it anymore. When the car is moving I guess it’s bearable, but boy, people saw me wipe sweat off of my face at red lights … I can see their sympathies in their eyes…. below was how I did it. Hopefully it can help somebody learn from my experience or avoid my mistakes. Keep in mind I’m not a mechanic let alone AC specialist. the R12 to R134a valves conversion do not work. Parts are below All I did was remove the caps and screw the new valves on top of the old
  14. After relighted the negative post, low/high lights magically come back to live and work again. No need to replace anything. 😉
  15. This issue happened to my 280z ‘77 once. Engine died at stoplight but fire up immediately. I didn’t pay much attention back then. Thought it was just a rare one off occurrence. Weeks later as I haven’t drive the car for at least 4 weeks, I couldn’t start the car at all. No ignition engage, no clicking of the starter … spends hours troubleshoot. Battery was good…. Cabin lights turn on…. Head lamp works for high beams but not low beams. I’ve been driving with high beams for weeks thought that the headlamps are on its way out… just haven’t got time to get around to replace them as I don’
  16. Hi all, Recently pass smog test. Been enjoying it every chance I get. Even volunteer to do errands for wife just so I can drive it!!!! I've notice the steering wheel can only make one full circle and the "distance/length" of the tire doesn't cover much. to put it into perspective, I'm having trouble making a 2 lands U-turn. What I mean is the other day I at McDonald's drive through, I had trouble making a right U-turn. My Van and sedan seem able to make a right U-turn quite easily. Of course it inches outside toward the other land a bit, but not as much as the Datsu
  17. Ladies and Gents, it’s a wonderful day today. My Datsun has finally pass the smog test. Last night I readjusted the valves and was careful to have all within the same “resistance” when sliding in the feeler. Took the fuel pressure test again using different rental showed 30psi at idle... drove the car at least 30 miles on freeway before brought her in... the rest is history. much appreciate all the suggestions and guidances from everyone. We will deal with this again in 2 years . 😉 but for now I’m a enjoying it. more other little things here and there but at l
  18. Come to think of it, the vacuum hose to the original FPR wasn’t tight enough. That explains when I open the oil cap, rpm lower but not stumble and die. With the tight vacuum hose and the ‘78 FPR, open the oil cap made the engine stumbled and die. However, oil dip made no different. Does that means the vacuum now tight? No more leak? I’ll have to see the CSV once more time
  19. Well, got the ‘78 fuel rail and regulator. It actually a bit worse. Without solenoid/cranking the car, 42ish PSI and 34PSI on idle. another thing “weird” is that open the oil cap, the car takes few seconds before it starts to stumble and die. Also, the original, ‘77 fuel regulator, the vacuum hose to the intake manifold was not sealed completely on the intake manifold. There is quite a suction on that hose too. also, I did jump the wire on the altitude switch. I can’t tell the different on the engine sound/exhaust smell where the jumped wire work or not. the exhaust s
  20. Look like all information from other forums also pointing to connecting the wires together. There’s not much info otherwise. What indicator to know the jump wires take effect? Higher/lower rpm? regards
  21. @Zed Head Your brain cannot go on holiday right now! There is a screw at the end. For sure it is for adjusting. And there is a lock screw with a white paint marked. I suppose that is a lock screw and was set at factory. the wire schematic showed like a switch... but you already know what is it. Very interesting. I’m glad the problem give you some challenge. I have zero clue 😉
  22. Sound like there is a high tension spring inside the switch. Gently hitting it on your palm can be heard the tension of the spring
  23. @Dave WM my dad was a hard working farmer, retired many years now.... And I don’t make that much money... kakakakaka. All of these toys are out of my reach. I don’t even know what they are let alone their usage 😉. Learn new thing every day.... this is what I’m going to do, while car is in idle, hot jump the wire. Hope I won’t screw other stuff
  24. You have a lot of toys, wish I could be your neighbor kikikiki need more reading to whether to screw in or out ....
  25. well, you'll need to buy another car with all sort of California "junk" on it, so you can help all of us out 😉 it's 5 pm on Friday and I'm still at work. aaaahhhh
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