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240zadmire

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Everything posted by 240zadmire

  1. The AC is original except the drier replaced a year ago… by coincident while troubleshoot the flasher fuse blown, I touched all the fuses and notice AC and fuel gauge fuse sockets were the hottest. I don’t think that normal to be that hot to the touch. The AC and fuel gauge fuse sockets hot if AC is running. Fuel gauge fuse cool otherwise. my electrical knowledge is rudimental at best… I’m doing trial and error to narrow down the issue. So far signal fuse hasn’t blown, yet.
  2. That’s the weird one. I ran the A/C for good 15 minutes, switching the blower level around and playing with the flasher left/right… no fuse blown. Not hot either. Only the AC and the fuel gauge are hottest. The AC clutch disengaged intermittently when I switch to max blower. it’s toying with me 🙂
  3. The hottest one is 100% on the AC fuse following the fuel gauge. It quite hot to the touch. Another warm location is at the connector at blower. I might have to cut those wires and create a 6 spades/blades in place.
  4. I didn’t carry the infrared thermometer with me at the time 😞 highly possible the culprit is at the connector under the blower toward the transmission tower. It corroded and have some greenish color to the pins. 2 of the pins too corroded I had to pull off and bypass. the infrared dot is hard to see in the photos. One of the fusible link is quite hot too.
  5. Purely trials and errors ... Without turning A/C, drove the car to work. A good 45 minutes arrived at work. Check all the fuses by hand touch and they are as cool as cucumbers. While the car is in idle, turn on A/C for a couple of minutes, the fuel gauge and A/C fuses start warming up. There is something going on there. Time to spend some quality time with the wire diagram.
  6. Car has been cooked the whole day under the sun. Switch on AC to max and tried the switch on the signal immediately… poof there goes the fuse. Touch the AC and fuel gauge fuse terminals and really hot to the touch. All other fuses are cold. What does that tell you?
  7. The fuses box look cleaned to me. No obvious rust or corrosion that I can see. I tried to repeat the steps that cause the fuse blown last time and noticed some interesting behavior. when the engine first started, I turn on A/C to maximum airflow but the A/C’s compressor clutch disengaged at maximum. Turn signals were working fine though. Reduce the airflow one click and the A/C’s compressor clutch engaged again. Seem like every level of airflow, the clutch engaged just fine except the maximum. This is only happen when the engine first started. The different is the car was in garage. So the ambience temperature is much cooler vs when the fuse blown, the car has been cooked under the sun couple of hours already.
  8. @dutchzcarguy apologies for rudimentary gramma mistakes. I understand it is irritating and sometime annoying to read such poor gramma. Worst, an incorrect place of apostrophe or comma, could have a different meaning altogether…. I will do a better job before submitting. There seems to be 2 flashers mounted under the pedals box. One is longer, bigger and I think it’s dead. The previous owner didn’t pull it off. The working one is smaller but is making a really low sound when turn signals or hazard switch is engaged. I believe I read on some other threads that it is normal, though it would be better if the sound is louder. However, that is for some other day. Yeah, the intermittent blown fuse is frustrating, indeed. My recollection is that it’s blown during the hot days. I like @Zed Headtheory. I’ll follow that path to see where it leads. stay tuned and stay indoor with A/C or shaded area. It’s sizzling in the south land!
  9. I cleaned the multi-switch 3 times. Perhaps the 4th time will do the trick? 😉
  10. you're on to something! I think the fuse blown during the hot days, lunch time frame. I'm not kidding. The tiny cabin with black interior IS really hot when during lunch time. This is really interesting to know the hot weather and the current rush in cause this phenomenon. Will have to unscrew the fuse block/box later.
  11. Arggg spoke too early…. Took the car out for lunch. Switch on AC, engage left turn signal, and poof, fuse blown again. Wonder if something short in the AC electrical path/switching lever…
  12. Took all bulbs, clean and examine each socket ... nothing ordinary that I can see. No fog or hazy. No warm feel at the fuses box. Been driving couple of weeks and put couple of 100 miles on it. it is not blowing anymore. One thing I didn't mentioned was that I do not have radio currently install. There are some wires with copper exposure that I didn't tape it cleanly. Possibility could be one of those wire touched the metal that cause a short. I've cut and electrical tape those wire cleanly. Hopefully that was the reason.
  13. When I took the driving test, the proctor asked how to use hand signal to turn left, right... that was 100 years ago. I've been using hand signals lately. Hopefully other drivers don't get offended and mistaken that I gave them the middle finger, especially turning right 😉 I bet gen XYZ don't even understand what is the meaning of roll down the windows let alone use hand signals. hahahahahaha It's the flasher 10A fuse for the left, right turn. You pulling my legs!!!! glad you pay attention to the details.
  14. I would never know this. 🙂 I’ve been driving the car almost daily and every few days, I needed to replace the fuse. will check again tonight to see what wrong. stay tune. Live and learn new thing everyday 🙂
  15. Greetings I’m scratching my head last couple of weeks and couldn’t figure it out. I have the wire schematic and trace all the wires pertaining the signal fuse keeps blowing up. I’ve clean the multi switch at the steering wheel, 3 times. Unplugged/plugged back connectors at the passenger side and near the fuse box couple of time already. The fuse seem to last for couple of days the blow up again. the hazard switch and light work. I just couldn’t figure where the short wire is that cause the signal fuse blowing off any suggesting where else to look? Thanks
  16. What? You’re saying there are more than this to constitute a thorough R&D? my car is pretty “bone stock” except the recent “force” upgraded transmission to closed ratio, and I love it. The front brake thing is another upgrade. The Z sure fun to tinkering and improving things. My pain point right know is my shallow pocket. I don’t see myself upgrading the rear to disc anytime soon. Whenever I upgrade anything, I try to retain the original look as much as possible. I try to absorb the reading materials as much as possible before pulling the trigger … but until I actually do it… I always curious of what iffff . The upgraded calipers with stock MC and booster feel great so far. No spongy feeling. Brake pedal feels tight. One thing I notice is the ceramic pads get gripper as the rotor get hot.
  17. Wow, the Porterfield commands some pretty pennies. I’ll have to look into this. Learn new thing everyday. Thanks gents
  18. My setting is a drilled StopTech rotors with Wagner ceramic ThermoQuiet pads. Have good results with Wagner ceramic thermoQuiet pads that I'm using on all my cars/vans. the upgraded for the Z is definitely grabbing the rotors better than OEM. I'm wondering if upgrading from 7/8" to 15/16" caliper, either w/out the booster, help braking the car to stop, faster. The pedal feeling with this new calipers is marginally the same. I'm not racing, autocross or track at all. Just normal daily driving but every now and then, the need for speed kicks in that you're helplessly just follow with it 😉 I'd like to be able to brake as fast as I could should the unfortunate event should happen. regards
  19. Greeting, this question probably asked hundreds of times …. Here goes one more. Upgraded the standard 2 calipers to 4 calipers Toyota 4Runner. The S-8 caliper. Not the larger one that need thicker, vented rotors. I figure, the 4Runner is much heavier than the Z, no need to get the biggest, baddest of all. definitely the new calipers have better grab to the rotors. the question are. - is it worth upgrading the booster and the master cylinder from 280ZX? - what about only the master cylinder and uses the existing booster? much appreciate. regards
  20. It'll be a heck harder doing it under the car for sure. Seem like a major job that will involve piston rings, head gasket, seals .... since you're in the neighborhood. Might as well pull the engine and do one overhaul. One time and do it right the first time 😉 good luck!
  21. Folks, with the current gas price seem to keep increase whenever I hit the gas station. This gave me a great motivation to take a look at the whole fuel hoses. I drop the tank and pay more attention to the hoses around the vent tank. I replace all the hoses, again. I have driven and emptied couple of tanks and noticed a nice swoosh sound when open the filler cap when the tank is close to empty. I believe that’s the negative vacuum the fuel pump created as it pump the fuel. I don’t smell a slightest fuel anymore. What confirmed to me is that I’m getting more mileage for a gallon. I used to get about 14-16 mpg and always thought that isn’t right. Just never occurred to me the fuel vapor could contributed to this low mileage. Always thought vacuum leak or running rich and never able to pin point to anything definitive. I was neglected this problem because gas prices was relatively cheap compare to today 😉 well, weather is getting hot everyday. AC is on most of the time and I’m getting 19-20mpg consistently for the last couple of fill ups. I read somewhere people able to get 28mpg. They must have tune the car to tip-top shape or always driving down hills 😉 anyway, I’m happy with the improvement and able to keep the environment a bit greener, especially my wallet is definitely greener. That’s important these days 😉. just thought that I’d share. I’m sure we all DIYers keep out toys tip-top shape cheers
  22. this might be the solution for me, for now https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-service-valve-cap/p/dorman-a-c-service-valve-cap-902-025/825033_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:8062087320&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_oeZ9LfG-AIViT-tBh1ULAfREAQYAiABEgLcqvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  23. I think I found the leak, hopefully the only place. It is actually the schrader valve on the low input. It leak so slow that I overlooked last time I did the soap test. Instead of soap water, I just fill the valve with water and patiently wait for more than 5 minutes with laser eye fixated on the valve. The leak is about one tiny bubble about the toothpick per 5 or so minutes. I recheck it every 5 minutes or so and there it was, another bubble. How do you go about fixing this with the refrigerant still full? I put a cap with the o-ring in it already and hopefully good enough for now. regards
  24. will try your suggestion. California is getting sizzling. Not to the point of boiling eggs on the asphalt, but getting there.
  25. Very nicely done. I won’t be able to do this as I don’t have a lathe 😞 perhaps next Father’s Day wish list and the wife agree 😉 as did my stock setup, I manage to just simply retro the r134a fittings. The condenser and compressor works for a year and last weekend was blowing hot air. Appeared all Freon escaped. Pull the vacuum for 40 minutes and seem like there isn’t a y leak anywhere. Put another 2 cans, (18oz or so) it’s running cool again. Did put some dye in and even stay soap every connectors. All seem good. If any leak, probably in the condenser under the dashboard. Pain in the behind
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