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I think those are intentional. They raise the pressure, force per unit area, on the gasket to give a better seal.

I've seen some goofy work also, but my FAVORITE one is from high school. My buddy asked me to help rebuild a SBF. I got everything checked at the machine shop and told my friend to get the machine work done - mains and rod journals need to be cut. He called after he had the motor back and I went to his house with all the parts. He was in a panic. His father wanted that damn car out of his garage. NP, we'll have the motor back in and ready to roll today. So I dropped in the mains and lowered the crank in place, but it wouldn't drop in - at all. I checked the bearings. Yep they were correct, .020. Then I put a bearing shell on the crank main journal. Uh oh. Not gonna happen. Me: Mike, you did get the crank cut, right? Mike: Cut? Me: Uh oh. Mike goes inside to tell his dad the car would not be moving today. bull****, I heard him holler. Next thing I know, dad is in the garage with us with a roll of aluminum foil. Here, he says, make shims to space out the bearing caps, and get that damned car out of my garage. I ran away. No way was I gonna be near that motor when he started it.

Picked up the spare L24 today. Casting code 056069 Also for my Friends 67 chevelle project a rare corvette C2 427 high performance casting code GM 3904351 4 bolt main. We checked the head numbers these are from a later 427 but we can het the early high compression cast iron heads from the US that combo it would make stock 435 HP.

I use a floor jack under the trans with the handle pointing towards the rear of the car so it rolls easily. Once the engine mounts are off and the weight is on the hoist, lower the trans jack all the way down. As you lift the engine and start to roll the hoist, the trans will pull the jack forward a bit.

main journal is 55mm, rod journal is 50mm. I think it must be more or less impossible to install one in the other.

Many things will be exposed when the engine is out that would otherwise be hard to get to. Something to consider. Steering rack, brake lines, fuel and vent lines, wiring stuff, clutch hoses, speedo cable, yadayada...

I thought things went well tonight. I got the center console prepped and installed. The biggest challenge was trying to figure out how the fuse box lid should be attached to it. Having never seen it attached properly I had to guess. I know I didn't it differently from stock, but I was happy with the result. It looks less redneck than what a previous owner did. With the quick install of the center console, I turned my attention to the seats. I got them in and secured. I couldn't help but just sit in the driver's seat for a little while. I haven't been able to do that for a few years. After enjoying the view and thinking of what is left to do to actually get the car on the road, I finished off the evening holding up the window channel rubber to the frame and putting the steering column cover back on. It's starting to feel like a car again instead of a collection of parts taking up a bay in the garage.

Well, I meant 1/2” drive impact. 3/4 would be crazy!! I don’t have a torch to try heating it up and area too tight without blowing out a knuckle and getting a good cut. Goal is no injuries on this engine change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trailering my Z from GA. My best friend, roommate at OTS, best man at my wedding and Godfather to my two kids lives in Monument so I'll be crashing in his basement, he's even got a spot in the garage for my Z. My dad is driving up from NM in his BRZ and we're going to do the Garden of the Gods, Pikes Peak drive together, hope my 240 can make it all the way up!

I always get the phrase "You ain't from around here, are ya boy? Cliff knows the interpretation - ya better state your business before I introduce you to my Winchester.

After causing a race DNF and a lot of money, I learned that the crank damper bolt needs Loctite. It can and sometimes will come loose and destroy the engine. I also learned that stock L-Jetronic EFI does not play well with an aftermarket cam. If you want stock EFI, stick with the stock cam. If you want a performance cam, go with carbs or a modern EFI.

Have not posted much over the years but I am scrambling to make it. Trailering the car from Ohio. Spent 5 years working on the car with no finishi line in sight so Imma just slap it together and get her to pikes peak on her 50th birthday. Still got paint and final assembly to go. I'll not be sleeping for the next few...

Well, persistence usually works. I often go for harder vs smarter. I knew my car was from CA and here is the cat I pulled off. I’ve seen a lot of recent news of people cutting these off cars parked in parked overnight. My waitress last month in St Louis had hers cut off in her driveway on a Honda....cost her $550 to replace it. Anyone of you Californian’s need a cat? I’m sure this is sellable for the palladium or platinum at a min? We don’t need them in NC on older cars and this car is exempt from all state inspections and smog regulations anyway. I had to remove this heat shied to get better access to the driveshaft. Is this heat shield only on cars with catalytic converters?

What does the journal look like? If I found a bearing that looked like that, I would pull all the caps off and have a look at them all.

ok this is a long shot.. IF the can the thermistor sits in gets plugged up by junk in the tank, I suppose its possible the small holes in the can could become blocked. this would prevent fuel from cooling the thermistor, allowing heat to build and resistance to drop. I would pull the sending unit, look it over real well for the small holes I mention, maybe even use a small exacto blade to open them up a tiny bit, and try it again. IIRC from some of the new units being made, the holes may be the issue, esp in a old tank. after clearing/opening up the holes test it before reinstalling. you want to see bubbles come out of the can when immersed into a fluid, then drain out again when removed. I presume the can and hole size is setup to act as a damper slow the on off process.

Found some nice gifts in my transmission gear oil when I drained it. It explains the odd noises coming from it. Glad I have a spare 5 speed on hand. I’m have to cut the exhaust pipe, the impact wrench didn’t do a thing to the bolts. Hacksaw time! Side note: got delayed on Z work today. My neighbor pulled up in the new Bronco and he let me take it for a spin. Drives nice, lots of plastic, don’t like the displays . $51k on the sticker. [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could ask the machinest how much to take some weight off the OE flywheel. The aluminum ones are expensive so a lot of folks lighten the stock one. Use that assembly lube, mine looked like fake blood but I can't remember the name right off. That really helps the bearings while you rotate the crank putting the pistons in. Sounds like you've covered all your bases and should be a walk in the park. Take your time though, I get excited and go too fast and end up making mistakes. Have fun!

Ordered up the last (I think) of the parts I need for the build. Got some bearings (both main and rod), rings, belt, coolant hoses, ring compressor and installer, some assembly lube, clutch kit, alternator, output shaft seal, and engine/tranny mounts. last thing I need to get moving on is dropping off the flywheel to get resurfaced. Unless someone has experience with lightweight flywheels and highly recommends it, I’ll probably stick with the stock one for costs. The fun part is just around the corner. Can’t wait to start.

It always amazes me how durable and forgiving the L Series Motors are. I’ve pulled engines that have the wide main bearing inserts mixed up with the narrow main bearing journals etc., but to no detriment. My guess is that you’ve got a rod bearing on a main and ended up with the main bearing on number 4. If the engine runs good and no oddities like oil usage, leave it alone........unless you want to pull the motor and replace all the bearings, I’d run it like you stole it! The important bearing is the center thrust bearing......its hard to mix that one up LOL.

Same in the US and I never understood that. I have a bottle of Red and a bottle of Blue and I always have to take the cap off to figure out which is which. What genius at Loctite decided to use a red bottle for both strengths?

Here is a shot of the right side on my 72. All original, complete with a small pucker where the guy spot welding the panels screwed up. The rear panel sits on top of the side panel.

Thanks for the reply. It's very helpful

Me to, funny enough it's in a red little bottle overhere.. I use a very little drop on many bolts big and small. Never had a loose bolt ever. 1st, your welcome Cliff, and 2nd, most z-secrets are in the serv. manual haha.. The biggest job is to get people to READ it.. instead of skimping..

A 3/4” impact gun on a Datsun Z? Uf da!

Pretty much, eh? Pretty versatile, like the Norwegian “uf da!” And I’m gonna use it in my next post so av8ferg doesn’t think we’re hijacking his engine swap thread, eh? It always sounds like, “Y’all ain’t fum aroun’ heah, are yew? I didn’t find people in the South any more or less disagreeable than any other part of North America, including the six Canadian provinces I’ve visited and worked in. eh?

It's easier to get those raised areas flat than the entire flange and as said above the concentrate the pressure.

On my 2nd go round with the 240 I used that Loctite that's blue. It's not as strong but from all I read it's great for regular vibrations. The gel stick is the way to go on bolt threads.

The area around the ports that looks like it is raised 1-2mm? I would think it would be fine, but maybe there’s an argument that the header has more of a chance to warp. It should give good pressure against the gasket surface around the ports though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great pic of the motor's lean to the passenger's side. Adjust the valves after marking the center of the cam towers. Just call me Analee. Giggity!

Thanks for the tips, guys. Made a deal with Woody for the part. Can't wait for it to arrive!

Jeff, Thanks for the advice. I have a folding lift. I can easily get the bumper off since it’s a new 240 style and not the railroad tie. Good advice all around. Got the radiator out today(what a mess) had to kick my dogs out of the garage before they tried to drink it. Wiring all labeled and disconnected. Working on the AC lines and compressor. Didn’t think the system was charged having sat so long. Got a nice blast of refrigerant on one line. Throttle links off, starter and heater hoses done. Going to drain the oil and trans fluid next. Headed to Lowe’s to get some rubber plumbing caps. Friend headed over to help with hood this afternoon. (Thanks Cliff for reminding me to mark the hinges). Cliff what’s are you talking about when you mention the WD-40 cap on the hood rod? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"eh" is Canadian for "You know what I mean?"

Oh heck yeah, lots of prep work: Thoroughly clean both sides of the panels, fix any bends/dents/dings - sometimes requires multiple passes of filler primer and wet sanding, polish the stainless steel bezels, tape the front sides of the bezels. If the back sides have any surface rust: remove rust with light sanding, tape back sides of bezels, primer the back sides. No sanding on the front sides until the bezels are taped and protected. Wet sand front sides, primer paint, wet sand primer, repeat as needed, color coat paint, wet sand, usually repeat at least once, apply clear coat, very lightly wet sand to remove any dust - just a kiss with the paper! Untape the bezels, wipe down with soft cloth, grab a beer to celebrate!

The wheels I ordered several months ago finally arrived. So now I can mount the tires I bought last winter. Can't wait to get them mounted and on the car.

Found some nice gifts in my transmission gear oil when I drained it. It explains the odd noises coming from it. Glad I have a spare 5 speed on hand. I’m have to cut the exhaust pipe, the impact wrench didn’t do a thing to the bolts. Hacksaw time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk