Jump to content

Jeff G 78

Members
  • Content Count

    2,729
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Everything posted by Jeff G 78

  1. Good for you Cliff. I did something similar, but stayed within the same company. I went from a high-stress job that was very rewarding 5% of the time to a simple non-rewarding job that I can walk away from at the end of the day and I don't have to think about work until the next morning. Work/life balance is more important than anything else.
  2. I have a 78 280 and a late 74 260. I have the swap on the 260 which is a race car. Look at the hub in my pic. The face is round which is different than the 240 and early 260 which have scallops between the wheel studs. The early hubs are thinner which means the brake rotor hats taller. The 240Z spacers are around 0.625" thick.
  3. I did a quick spec comparison between the 505 rotors and the Z31 rotors. The OD is pretty close, while the Z31 rotor is thicker by 0.078" (2mm), the center bore of the 505 rotor is smaller by 0.193" (4.9mm) and the overall thickness of the 505 rotor when laid flat is 1.63" (41.04mm) which is greater by 0.23" (5.84mm) than the Z31 at 1.4" (35.56mm). The bolt circle is also wrong, but it appears the ones you pictured have two sets of holes, so maybe they fit? I don't have my sheet handy where I measured the spacer thickness, but I recall it being somewhere around .355" (9.0mm). I'm su
  4. The spacer is required when the 1984 Z31 rotor is used with the Toyota V6 4x4 caliper. There are two spacers - one the is thicker for the 240Z hub and one that is thinner for the 260/280 hubs. The hubs are scalloped on the 240 and round on the 260/280. The Techno Toy Tuning spacers like mine have a pilot for the rotor to keep them centered. Many of the cheaper spacers do not. Here in the US, getting Peugeot parts isn't an option.
  5. Mine don't have a lot of clearance, but it's more than zero.
  6. Set them cold and check them hot to verify. If anything is a tad off, I can adjust one or two while it's still hot.
  7. Mine is similar. I used a 1" acme rod and a front strut top bearing for the thrust. Both ends are tapped, but one isn't tapped quite right, so I need to cut the rod a bit shorter and re-drill and tap that end. I kept both the rod and the tube longer than needed so they could be cut down if the threads get damaged,
  8. Awesome! Glad somebody else got use out of my puller. Did the extracted spindle pin unthread from the threaded rod okay? My plan is to machine two flats on the back end of the threaded rod to aid in unthreading the two. I then need to machine a puller plug for extracting the bushing. The radius of the socket doesn't work as well as a sharper edge would and the plug will have the right step so the inner and outer bushing sleeves are pushed with the same force. Let me know how the bushings come out.
  9. Spindle pin puller was handed over today. Hopefully it works out for @AZDatsun Eventually if I have time, I'll make more and sell them if there is a demand.
  10. I put mine on the front differential crossmember just outside the LCA mout brackets. They allow the suspension to droop and allow removal of the majority of parts in the rear of the car.
  11. Not that I'm in any position to get a new DD right now, but I do like the new Z. I briefly considered selling the Porsche and maybe even my 280Z next year to help offset the cost of the new Z. But then I noticed that I see a heck of a lot of 370Z's in my area and every one of them is ratty with mismatched body panels, slammed ride height and stupid loud exhaust with a punk kid driving. It will take time, but I see the new Z getting the same treatment and that's not my vibe. After all the S13's and S14's were ruined, the same people started buying up the Z33's and Z34's. I think I'll keep
  12. Where in AZ are you located? You can borrow mine.
  13. Aside from the cat videos, I get sucked in by the completely ridiculous "tool hacks" videos. They are such a train wreck of terrible and dangerous info that I tend to hover for a few too many seconds and now my feed is loaded with them. Most include either a hot glue gun or an arc welder to make a completely useless tool that wouldn't work at all and would be cheaper to buy than the money spent on the welding rods and grinding discs wasted.
  14. Not really needed. I don't run them on my race car.
  15. Yes, the Rewinds don't come close to fitting over the S12 + W calipers. They only need to be ground down at the inner corner, the rest of the fins can stay in place. I also needed to install longer studs to get proper thread engagement on the Rewinds. Make sure you have enough threads engaged.
  16. I have all the OE A/C components for mine, but I haven't had the compressor mounted for 30 years. I plan to get it operational at some point so I can drive it in the summer. I can't even imagine it sitting in the sun and then trying to drive it without passing out when it's 110F or higher. Good luck with your build. Are you on desertdatsuns.net? I like that there is a AZ group, but I struggle with the 20 year old forum software there. It feels like the old Zhome or even IZCC days for the really old timers.
  17. The biggest issue I see is the 0.008" head milling. An unsurfaced head will yield around 9.83:1 CR, but once milled, you will be over 10:1. Even on 93 octane, that's pushing it, but with our 91 octane, I'd be concerned. I have a similar build with an un-milled head and it did just fine in Michigan on 93. I moved to Sun City West a few months ago and other than driving around a bit this spring, my Z has been in the garage awaiting cooler weather, so I haven't even had to fill the tank with 91 yet. I'm hoping that I'll have time in the next month to get the car out and drive it more. At th
  18. Welcome! There are a lot of great people here with tons of Z knowledge.
  19. It's a lottery purchase for sure. I'd love to have the disposable income to buy that and have a 8000+ RPM engine built.
  20. I remember letting the tensioner pop out back in the 80's. You will only let it happen once. 🙂 It adds time to the job, but pulling the front cover really isn't that bad. It adds a few hours at most. I've done air, rope, and rubber hose to hold the valves closed. Rope is the best method. The hose is a bit to squishy and allows some valve movement. Air works fine, but is too risky. if anything goes wrong with air, the job gets MUCH harder. I have had good luck with the KD valve spring compressor tool on stock valve springs, but performance springs and spring caps make it much mo
  21. Any clue what an entire system might cost Steve? Just curious if you have a ballpark.
  22. I don't mind driving places that I can reach in one day, but I don't like taking multiple days each direction. My back isn't what it used to be, so 800 miles is about my comfortable daily limit. This spring when I moved across the country, I did 1000 miles the third day pulling a trailer. That was a bit too much.
  23. Too far for me. It's over 1700 miles away.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.