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A member requested a few more pictures and dimensions of the original Yakazi spark plug and coil leads I have for my car, so I thought I would share here as well. Coil Lead: Spark Plug Leads: Dimensions (revised May 18/21):

I purchased a 1 1/2 inch crowsfoot wrench and attached it to my 1/2-inch torque wrench so that it was at right angles. This did not change the length of the torque wrench appreciably so the torque value I dialed in should be somewhat accurate. Maybe a little underestimating the torque if you consider the length from the center of the nut to the handle is slightly longer than the center of the wrench head to the handle. Lets see Pythagorean Theorem, a2+b2=c2, a 2 + b 2 = c 2 , can be used to find the length of any side of a right triangle.

I don't know if it's been mentioned, but those /\/\/\/\/\/\ markings probably signify "resistor".

Are you sure that is not just carbon on this plug? As if running too rich or not having enough spark? Here are two of mine for comparison from the old engine that used to drink 1L of oil every 500 miles. That engine was definitely burning oil. Now see the difference to yours: you can see they are shiny and have solid deposits on them. Yours from the photo, looks matt and dry as if it’s carbon. By all means go take the head off to put your mind at rest but I genuinely think you have another issue here. If you are still convinced it’s the seals then do what has been suggested first - namely replace the seals WITHOUT removing the head.

Im curious how it idles when you remove the center link. It's going to be that bent one in the center. Remove that piece and screw in the idle air control screws on both carbs one and a half turns from when they start to affect the butterfly's position. The linkage will visibly move. It'll rev at like 2000 so don't be worried. But see if you can bring it down to 800-700 and then use a carbsync to sync the airflow. If you can it means the linkages are messed up. If not then I'm not sure.

The owner is a stand up guy that does a lot zinc plating that he sells . I’ve done business with him - very professional . 80k - mine is going on the market

So don't tune in to your news source of choice then, eh?

I shaved mine down to have a small gap. the total length of the snub bushing was ~29mm, if you were doing it yourself you might be able to leave the length longer, say ~31mm. I noticed less noise from the rear end at highway speeds, 65-75mph. I did not notice any clunking sounds yet, but if i need to reduce the gap, i think fitting a rubber bushing between the poly mount and the metal would be the way to go. I tried cutting it down to ~36mm length and 32mm length and it was still a squish fit. It was easy to remove the bushing from the front of the diff, just had to loosen the front diff mount and lower it on a jack. You might have to pull down on the diff to fully get it out.

In controls vernacular the yellow wire is a "signal". In this case, the ignition being on signals the fan that it is okay to run if the engine is hot.

This part might be confusing. It's just poorly written instructions. It should say "switched power" or "ignition switch". One of those lost-in-translation things. Plus the fact they're calling a power source a "signal". It's not a signal.

You can do a couple things. 1. Make a tool out of a ring spanner and weld a nut on the spanner shaft at 100mm from the centre of the ring. Use a tension wrench on that. There is a formula to calculate the required torque, but if you use a wrench whereyou dial in the NM, just reduce it by 10% 2. What I do is use a ring-open end combination spanner. Measured the distance to from center of shaft to a position on the spanner where I could attach a bucket to. Calculate the required wieight. Spec is 14 to 17kg/mtr with tool. If you use a spanner direct on the shaft nut, than add 10% (15.4 to 18.7). If the spanner is 500mm long than calculate 1000mm ÷ 500 = 2. 2 x 15.4 = 30.8kg en 2 x 18.7 = 37.4kg. Fill a bucket with what ever you can find to make 31kg to 37kg. The weight of the spanner won't make much difference and you have a fairly wide tolerance of 6 kg in this example.

That seems normal. When the input shaft is fully installed with circlip it does not bottom out like it does now in the photo. What you can do to check if its not too rxcessive is measure the distance between the front faces of the two gears. Then install the front transmission housing. Push the input shaft in until it bottoms out and measure the difference between that position and the position with circlip installed. The difference should be pretty close to the gear faces measurement.

And if anyone is selling one, then I’m up for one!!

Thanks dude. Strangely some things have changed immediately like import duties but others haven’t yet like GDPR! Ps. We are still part of Europe (as in the continent) but no longer in the European Union! :p

The red tow-hook 73 was actually a well-done resto mild mod. $80,000. My gob feels smacked. It has those odd-looking valves that we couldn't identify in someone else's head work pictures. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-158/

The person I recommend is not in your area, you can contact him at email dave@tuning4performance.com / his name is Dave Premo PH.925-890-8074 located in Concord,Ca. 94521. I was having trouble getting my triple Mikuni 44phh tune properly, after speaking to Dave and discussing my Mikuni issues, he diagnosis my issue was the incorrect jettings in my carbs. Dave is also a distubutor for Mikuni parts, which he sold me the jets I needed. I installed the recommended parts and my Mikuni's is running excellent. Dave is very knowledgeable about getting your Mikuni carbs to perform properly with your engine type. My 240z runs great with the Mikuni performing like they should. I highly recommend Dave to anybody having Mikuni carb issues. Good luck, yippi

2nd oldest profession.

rem1313.....If you are using a 73 E88 head and only shaved .012 inches, you shouldn’t have any problems IMO. Those pistons are fly cut. If you use a cam with any more lift than .460, you would need to use a shorter valve seal.

are '73 style' pistons flat top? If so, it'll be pretty close I think. I'd mock it up with plasticine and check how much clearance there is.

The voltage regulator has been relocated from its usual position and it's hood cover is missing. Might be something to do with clearance when the dealer installed ac was added. Nevertheless, a dumb place to put it and ruin the data plate. I have seen that exact same thing done before.

What the heck is that mounted over the data plate? Never seen that before.

I happened to be over near my storage yesterday so I stopped in to have a look at the taillights and unfortunately they do not have the additional bulb. This is quite odd since the car has the switches. I could not get a good look at the taillight sub-harness, maybe there is the extra bulb on there and the taillights have been replaced with US spec ones.

Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart!

My first thought when I saw this was scam. My opinion hasn't changed yet...