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Alex240z

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About Alex240z


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  • Member ID: 34500


  • Rank: EnthuZiast


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  • Joined: 05/17/2020


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    Scoundrel

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    240z

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  1. Hello, long time no see. So after doing the trick it does seem that the floats liked being at 10mm rather than 14mm. She runs little rich but there’s no bogging or lost of power under load. She drove well for an hour until the carbs vapor locked. I haven't checked yet to see if my temp gauge that was reading 250f the entire time was working or not. I just assumed it didn’t because I changed the termo, the sensor, radiator, and some hoses. After it cooled down it started up again only for me to run out of gas. Guess my fuel gauge wasn’t working. Other issues at the moment are: brakes are leaking from the hardline to soft line in the front. No clue why because I just changed them with SS but both are leaking. I rebuilt my brake booster I’m missing a locking washer for it so brakes are meh. Trans leaks quite a bit. But seeing it’s a 4 speed i don’t know if I want to fix and maybe save to switch to a new trans like a cd009. However! Some good news. I got a hold of a diesel crank and I just tore down a f54 block. In a couple of weeks I’ll be ordering the 3.2L stroker from robello. Also got a hold of 3 type T mikuni 40phh. I haven’t done much looking into what cylinder head to use because I have a e88 and a p90. I think I’m going to stay with the p90 because I’ve heard it lowers compression and I might do a turbo application in the future we’ll see. However I have no clue what valves, springs, cam, and etc specs to use. I do have a cracked p90a around so I might learn how to port and unshroud the valve on that one just to save me some money. I might create a discussion on here about my restoration project just don’t what topic to put it under.
  2. forgot to mention that yes I can remove it.
  3. I’ve been able to remove the nozzles without taking it off. Only thing it really did was stop the adjustment nut from going lower then it was set so it doesn’t come off the thread. Which the spring already does I believe
  4. Only issue with that method I found is I have a plate under the locking nut that stop it’s from going lower. I don’t know if it was set wrong or what because it’s adjustable. But if I try to do 10 full turns (not sure if it’s half or full) it just stops around 4 1/2. After a search of 4 screw carbs I couldn’t find one with the stopping plate.
  5. So I tuned the car. Doesn’t help that I’m colorblind (a bit) so the color tune is a bit hard for me to tell. I think it ran lean because the engine was bogging when I test drove it. Temp gauge goes all the way up when I drive the car. Probably dead. (I hope) I richened the carbs a half turn then it started popping so I’m going to lean it out an eight or more. One thing I’m curious about is the float setting. I have a 4 screw and the setting for 70-71 carbs are 13/32” but I set mine at 9/16” which is for 72. Not sure if this could be a cause as well.
  6. Under my impression I thought dual point would give a better spark. After some research it seems like it was made for emissions. I’ll retune the front carb and see if it makes it any better. Wonder if that was the cause of the pops under load.
  7. hello! it's been a while. Unfortunately I got caught up with work and other matters. I finally got some progress and discovered other things. My carbs are finally working! I ordered a 14mm color tune kit and I was able to dial in the carbs to idle around 800 and I got them to run a little rich at higher rpms. I found out something however which I don't know about. I did all the tuning on the carbs with the vacuum advance off. The second I put the line back onto the first carb the car started "tweaking out." Started misfiring and popping in the high rpms. The distributor is a single point kind and I do have a dual point laying around. Just don't know how to convert my electrical for it. Thanks for any input.
  8. Im curious how it idles when you remove the center link. It's going to be that bent one in the center. Remove that piece and screw in the idle air control screws on both carbs one and a half turns from when they start to affect the butterfly's position. The linkage will visibly move. It'll rev at like 2000 so don't be worried. But see if you can bring it down to 800-700 and then use a carbsync to sync the airflow. If you can it means the linkages are messed up. If not then I'm not sure.
  9. hello! Some "progress." So... I guess I wasn't getting spark on all engines. I was getting about 3/4 cylinders max. Which is great to know cause I drove the car like that. Sweet. In a way makes sense why the front carb was always running lean while the rear carb wasn't doing much because it was the front 3 cylinders that were getting sparked. I got myself a new set of spark plug cables and put them on. Haven't had the chance to actually try the car out because its final's week. Another thing I got done was putting the original needles back on (n27). I was running m43 needles I got off a kit because thats the only way the engine would run. They were a couple of mm shorter than a n27 needle. Then I tried a n54 needle that also came with the kit. Hopefully I've have better luck with the n27. Also I found a method to set the float with the jet is turned down 10 turns so I'll try that out. Wish me luck.
  10. 1st and 6th spark plug. Weird that I’m running rich but the engine won’t start unless I fully push down the pedal. I’m completely lost. In the mean time I’m going to get a new pair of plug cables
  11. Make sure your clutch kit is compatible with your clutch collar! You'll end up being like me when I didn't check and had to take that transmission off several times.
  12. As for the Yugo, I saw one at one of the junk yards around my area. If they would take 100$ I would've bought it.
  13. Haven't noticed a smell. Pretty sure its the engine running out of fuel. Plus I know I messed up setting the floats to 16mm and not 12/14mm. IT did run at 1500rpm for a bit. Then rpm went down and started to die. When I tried to start it back on it had little moments where the engine tried to start but didn't. I have a single point distributor and I put it at 10-12 degrees A. I've tested all 6 plugs and changed the spark plugs for all 6 cylinders.
  14. Progress: nothing. Engine won’t start. Getting spark. Probably float bowl issue. Set them at 16mm but might need to go 2 higher? Have a feeling the hoses might be bad too from the float bowl to the jet. Got some off zcardepot but I might’ve not cut them long enough. Anyone know where I can get replacements?
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