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Everything posted by CanTechZ

  1. @MikeIt's a little over the top when you recruit our members for the ads. But I did enjoy the happy dance by @Captain Obvious
  2. You mentioned that your car has been changed to electronic ignition, likely changes were made and that black wire is not used. Normally there are two condensers, one at the coil and one at the dizzy for the points circuit, at least that is how my 1970 is. Here is a picture of mine with the dist. cap removed. showing the connector spade (red arrow) where the black wire goes. FYI it's the yellow wire that is connected to the temperature switch on the thermostat housing. In your picture I see red and black wires in the same area where mine has the condenser. Do these connect to th
  3. Vapor blasting gives a very nice original look finish. Here's an example of vapor blasting by a company near me, that provides this service:
  4. I think it goes to the small condenser on the side of the distributor.
  5. FYI, KlassicFab has a great deal on now, for the battery shelf and surrounding metal, https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/battery-tray-floor-battery-tray-datsun240z/
  6. @Bonzi Lonmakes a very good point, if my shelf was any higher I would have real problems getting a group 24C battery in. It is difficult now, I have to assemble the battery, plastic tray and cover and hold down frame and attach the positive cable, then slide this group of parts in as a unit. Even doing this it is difficult, as the plastic tray drain tube connector sticks out below the shelf. A kind of tip and then slide effort, is required to get it into the final position, without snapping off the drain hose connector. Don't ask me why I know. I did a little more checking this morning a
  7. Here are pictures of the measurements from my '70 plus a couple to show the fitment. The shelf on mine is definitely on a slope front to rear but is quite level left to right. Mine measured 8" above frame rail close to the firewall and 8-1/4" at the forward edge. Dist from the firewall about 13/16". It has touchup paint work but no body work in this area.
  8. If no one posts sooner, I will get this measurement for you when I get home from today. My Car is disassembled so it will be easy to get.
  9. That was quick, thanks for posting the pics. Looks like a very close match. I think I will order one soon.
  10. Thanks, I will look for that info. In my case the job will we quite, easy as I have already removed the transmission.
  11. Thanks Site, great reference and will help. Cheers, Mike
  12. Getting close to pulling the engine, so I picked up a two ton shop crane and engine leveler that was on sale. The leveler has "L" brackets on the end of the chains so I started to see what was required to attach these to the engine. @Racer Xposted pictures of the OEM lifting brackets so that was my starting point. Here is what the OEM's look like: After reviewing this I thought it made sense, on the front mount, to attach the leveler "L" bracket at the OEM location, and to use both of the two M8 holes that the OEM bracket used. So I took some measurements and made a sketch to fab a small
  13. Thanks for posting this, looking forward to reading your future update. My strut definitely needs replacing. Cheers, Mike
  14. While looking for something unrelated I found this Nissan Technical Service Bulletin that describes when and why the markings were changed on the plug and coil leads.
  15. @mayolivesIs your car a 2+2? The parts book lists drip rail clips for 2+2 models but does not show them in the illustration. They are not shown or listed for the 2 seater.
  16. Here's a couple more pictures,
  17. That welting trim is just pressed on. First the weather strip is glued on and has a thin rubber layer that goes over the pinch welded joint. Then the welting is pressed on over that rubber with the working part of the weather strip adjacent on the outer side. Here's a picture 0f my 7/70 car as I was disassembling it, and a few pictures of the welting.
  18. There is 1971 240Z survivor currently on BAT that has original leads. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-128-2/ Looks like in 1971 the color of the markings was changed to white and the resistor symbol markings changed. Also on the #6 lead the plug boot was changed to angled. Here are a few zoomed cropped images.
  19. Pulled mine out and tired to get a good picture, but the condition is not so good. Here is the best I could do,
  20. Thanks, and yes I do. It's currently buried with other parts but here is a picture before I removed it.
  21. I am lucky to have the original date coded Yazaki plug and coil leads on my 1970 240Z. So I've started this topic to discuss the details of these on S30 cars, I don't want to limit this to only early cars, as I'm interested in hearing about their evolution over the years. I have taken detailed measurements to create 3D cad models and a drawing complete with markings. To start here are a few pictures of mine, they are not pristine but the date code and markings can be seen. Here are a few images of the 3D cad model, created with Solid Edge version 2020:
  22. Thanks Roo. Unfortunately the coil wire has almost no markings left. I will have to get out the magnifying glass in some very good light, but I don't hold out much hope on that one.
  23. I just revised the sketch of the leads in my previous post (#80) with more accurate lengths, the method I used with a fabric tape was not the way to go. I got much better, and repeatable numbers, holding the leads in a channel to carefully keep them straight. Anyone recognize the re-purposed holding device. I used this method so that I could get accurate measurements of the markings. This will all be in a new topic after I have time to finish with the measuring and cad work. Here is a preview of the number 3 lead. I will also be creating a 2D drawing with dimensions of the ma
  24. Good idea. I will get a few more dimensions and do that soon. Edit, link added
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