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CanTechZ

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Everything posted by CanTechZ

  1. Looks much better than the hockey tape repair on my 52 year old breather hose. The hose itself is not to bad, just the fabric is failing on that end.
  2. Thanks CO, I agree on your comment about lighting, it does make any comparison somewhat subjective. I will try to find some Metallic Carbon Mist, I think you meant to say it's a Rust-Oleum Product. Adding confusion, I found that in Canada it has a different part number, 264656, not 261413. They carry 264656 up here at Home Depot, but the stores near me are currently out of stock. Here's the links to Carbon Mist in the US and Canada. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-mist-metallic-spray-paint?ls=261413&lc=Metallic Carbon Mist https://www.rustoleum.ca/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/metallic?ls=264656&lc=Carbon Mist When I can get my hands on some and have a chance, I will do a test spray on the spare tail light finisher panel I first tested DC Dark Shadow Gray on and report back. Who knows maybe I will like it better and respray mine when I complete my resto. Cheers, Mike
  3. Yesterday I pulled my tail light finisher parts and my grill and hubcaps out from storage to take some color comparison pictures inside with flash on and off and outside in filtered sun. I wanted to try in full sun but I lost my opportunity when the high clouds came in. Here are the results. The grill is original, not repainted. Inside with flash off... Inside with flash on... A couple outside, filtered sun (no flash)... Lastly here are couple of cut and paste comparison with snippets from @kats that I "borrowed".
  4. Hi Kats, sorry I'm a little late responding to your question. In 1988 I replaced my fuel tank with a new one from my local Nissan dealership, so it does have the extra vent lines but they were capped off at installation. It doesn't have a reservoir tank at the right rear quarter or the fuel flow guide valve or extra line. It does have the original single groove harmonic balancer pulley.
  5. Thanks Site, I'm still very happy with the results. When I picked the color back in 2016, I must have looked a little strange in my local Canadian Tire store holding a hub cap up to various cans of paint. Lol This is a test I did on the inside of a tail light finisher that had OE paint in good shape partly painted with DC dark shadow grey and matte clear. Here is one of my unrestored hub caps against the end result,
  6. My car is a 7/70. #6521 and has a slightly different emissions decal. It also references the 1971 regulations. The interesting thing is that my car is a non-emissions model for the Canadian market and came without the emissions devices mentioned on the decal. Here is a picture from before I removed if during my current resto. Here's a link to a discussion on this subject. Might be a good place to continue this discussion.
  7. Here is a close up picture showing the difference in texture and color of the old and new scuff plates. I purchased the old vinyl wrapped one in 1984 and got the newer texture painted one in 2015, neither one has been used. Another interesting fact about the early ones is that they first came with a five hole pattern, and the holes are dimpled. I still have a rough five hole one that I saved when I put on a replacement in 1984. The inner rockers on my car, both have five holes to match. For reference here is my collection. The two with pink tags have been on my 7/70 car from 1979 and 1984 respectively, until I removed them for my current restoration.
  8. Your calipers look great. I see that the M10's that you are inquiring about a torque spec have a 10T marking on the heads. The Datsun (Nissan) general torque spec book shows tensile strengths and torques for 4T, 7T and 9T bolts. It would likely be safe to assume that a 10T bolt would be 11% (= 142,000 psi) stronger than a 9T and likely could be torqued 11% (= 31 - 42 ft-lb) higher than the 9T spec as well. Extrapolated values are for M10 x 1.25. General-Datsun Torque Specifications.pdf
  9. No problem, it's interesting that the earlier part number, 11110-E3021 that applies up to 04/71, has two versions. The initial version was used in early 1970 and is on some mid 1970 cars like mine. These early ones have a brazed on reinforcement plate and the drain plug is in a different location.
  10. Here is a discussion with pics of 11110-P0100.
  11. If it helps I created this sketch of my 7/70 car for another discussion. For this topic:
  12. This will be a good one to watch on BaT, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-225/ Over 1000 pictures with hundreds of the resto.
  13. My 7/70 #6521 is a bit of an anomaly. It is a Canadian market non-emissions car and has the early cap with the clip on the back for a chain but the mounting ring has no provision for a chain. I've owned the car since 1978 and never replaced the cap. My guess is it either came this way or the previous owner lost the original cap, with no chain, and replaced it with what he (or she) could get.
  14. Thanks for proofing my work, you are correct on the washer at the the top center stud, good eye. I have edited the image above to reflect this, it was a typo. And thanks for clarifying the type of nut on the rear stud, I was wondering about that. I believe that someone did add the stack of washers and that tall nut when the header and a custom exhaust were added. That location should have a lockwasher and regular nut, no flat washers. Thanks again.
  15. Thanks for this Jim, good to know. I just had another look at my long bolt and it only appears to use about 6mm thread engagement length, based on where the rust starts. When I put my caliper through that M8 hole in the head it bottoms at about 15mm when it contacts the guide as it is currently adjusted. Definitely something to be aware of, thanks again.
  16. For reference, as I promised in post #33 here is a picture marked up with the bolt, washer and nut locations as they are on my long time own 7/70. EDIT - center top stud changed to "B" thin type as observed by @inline6 see post #48 below, thanks Here is picture of the nut and washers noted above in blue and red. In the parts book the exhaust manifold stud in this location supports the coolant pipe that goes around the back of the block and the rear engine lifting lug. and no flat washer is used, just a nut and lockwasher. The JDM parts book show it more clearly than the N.A. book.
  17. Mine is 70mm long (under head) with 25mm thread length. The short one is 30mm long with 24mm thread length. Best I can tell they are yellow zinc (chromate) plated, but there is not much evidence left. Both have a lockwasher, no flat washer.
  18. On mine I don't see any markings on the head of that bolt, even using a 5.5X loupe. The short bolt is a recessed hex head type with "4" on it.
  19. The washers on the intake bolts (M8 x 35mm long) are the same as the thin exhaust washers, 21.5mm OD x 8.5mm ID x 2.5mm thick. Thanks for sharing your fastener spreadsheet.
  20. I've owned the car since 1978 and the only time that I am aware the intake was off would have been during a rebuild in the early eighties, that was done at my local Datsun dealership, Chilliwack Datsun, before they changed to the Nissan name. Those three screws are also for mounting the fuel rail, I'm thinking that the mounting brackets act as a washer in those areas so as not to have bolt length issues. Here's a pic when I was loosening the fasteners prior to removal.
  21. @Namerowregarding your original post about studs vs bolts for the upper six intake manifold fasteners, I found something interesting in the 1973 JDM S30 parts fiche. The nut (item 32) is described by two options, one a nut and the other "BOLT - fixing manifold". These pages are for up to 1973-2. Not exactly clear but interesting none the less. The studs are shown on a different page for the cylinder head, The JDM parts book has great illustrations and in a lot of cases more detail than the N.A. parts book. It can be found here: Thanks @hr369
  22. The thin ones are 21.5mm OD x 8.5mm ID x 2.5mm thick. Over the next couple of days I will mark up a picture with the occurrence of each type and post it here.
  23. Here are some pics from my 7/70, after removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, I replaced the hardware in the locations that I found them. No lockwashers are used, except for the two capscrews that attach the thermostat housing. The thick exhaust manifold washers are 23.6mm OD x 9.0mm ID x 6.1mm thick on mine. The intake capscrews have "7" and "T" and "R" marks. Hope this helps.
  24. Early 240Z's did come from the factory with body color paint on the underside. Most in my area got dealer applied black undercoating of some type. My 7/70 car #6521 got the very thick tar like undercoating which I have removed during my restoration exposing original 918 orange paint throughout. On my car I found that under the 918 paint the front wheel wells and the transmission tunnel, front to rear, plus between and including the underfloor frame rails, got a very heavy dark charcoal grey primer. The top coat of paint in these areas is very thin and the dark grey color shows through, especially in the transmission tunnel. The area under the floors and the rear wheel wells had a lighter blueish grey primer and the top orange coat was much closer to the upper exposed surfaces. Here are some pics of mine.
  25. Fan Blade? This is a snippet from the next picture.
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