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I replaced all the fuel lines on the rail and the Z runs as it should! I just got back from a 20 minute drive. One of the rubber hoses had a pinhole leak and was squirting a decent amount of fuel. I appreciate everyone’s help!

That one on eBay shown as coming from Top End is the MSDSinc.com product (aka Marty mentioned earlier in this thread). Go to Marty's site instead if you want that one. You'll save $60-70 buying directly from him. He has a good reputation on here. I wound up going MSA's product over his but only because they have the exhaust-to-tail connection ready to go. Marty's part number related to that eBay item is HO-241, I think.

I like the portable dance floor on the back. Or maybe it's a picnic table. Multi-purpose, you could do your auto repair work back there. Maybe that's it.

My theory is “ why would I risk the car or injury” over the price of a set of tires?

That was suggested to me so I ran the gauge to the windshield. It let me see what was what at idle then through the range of throttle. @FastWoman helped me through all of this. I miss her help on our cars but she moved on, I guess?

Now THAT is a whale of a tail!

I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : ( Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.

I don't think you're being controversial at all, the general consensus among tire manufacturers for age out is 6 years. Sure you can say that the manufacturers use that number out of an abundance of caution and the desire to make more tire sales and that may be true to a certain extent. I'm as stingy as the next guy but I don't cheap out on tires because those 4 little patches of rubber are the only thing that keep you on the road. Brakes don't stop the car, tires do. Traction control, ABS all the rest of those helpers are worthless without 4 fresh contact patches. I can't remember where I saw it but about 15 yrs ago I read an report on how many collisions and fatalities are tire related, worn out, under inflated and old, it was a large percentage. That's when I became a bit of a zealot and don't even get me started on 4 season tires.

Just gone down to $2700 - the price too is starting to suffer with oxidisation. Seriously though - don’t we think it’s probably worth $1-2k to someone who is going to break it? Given it comes with a spare L28., there must be at least $2k of parts there, no? The glass, wings, roof, carbs, trans, diff, wiring loom, gauges, axles, steering rack, rear disc conversion etc etc etc and the L28 will surely fetch good money on eBay?

I totally get that and it’s very true. However even in the dry they had started to wheel spin out of junctions and feel vague. No other car in front or behind me travelling at the same gentle pace let go / understeered etc at that time. Either way tyres do go off over time and frankly they (and brakes) are keeping you safe and on the road. Relative to how much money we spend on our cars to keep them shiny, I just look at it as a cheap insurance policy not worth skimping on. They basically oxidise over time and go hard. Here’s a good article ... https://www.thetelegram.com/wheels/have-your-tires-reached-their-expiration-date-255224/

Just remember PLA basically looses its shape above 60°C. If you want to use it in the engine bay / interior (summer) annealing or a different filament is a must. In your print above the belt tension is too low and/or the print speed is too high (shifted layers). Your restoration is inspiring!

$200-$300 will get you setup with a quality printer with a print size in the 200 mm x 200 mm x 250 mm range. For me that’s perfect for what I use it for. Prototyping mounting brackets, small NLA trim pieces, emblems, you name it. I’ve also printed larger pieces in sections, then glued them together. My 72 Z I am printing a center bezel for the dash to house the Vintage Air controls and my Haltech keypad. I don’t like the aluminum delete panel look, and this will have the shape of the stock bezel but fit the new controls. You can glue, body work, and paint the pieces to form very strong and seamless parts.

Its a good sign. When you have everything re-assembled you can test the regulator by disconnecting the vacuum line at idle to see if the fuel pressure increases by about 6 or 7 psi. If at idle your gauge reads 30 psi, it should go up to 36 or so.

To start it would be interesting to see what the pressure is doing when it’s fluttering and after t smooths out.

1.5" Primary Datsun Z Header. All Square Port. 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX | eBay pointed out by AK260 above

Is it me, or should the pipes be fully welded to the flange? See attached pic from the add.

I take it this happened in your z? I also take it you made it out alright? Which leads me to my main question - did the car survive?

This looks like a good deal to me. Anyone looking should jump on these.

From all I've read on here the FPRs rarely fail. I think it's a simple diaphragm but I'm not positive. You can clamp the return line to increase fuel pressure. That's how I discovered my coolant temp problem. The shitty running up until 2,500rpms.

Stealthy 78 survivor Arizona car. Seems like it might get a nice number. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-85/

Allow me to be controversial - in my personal experience, tyre rubber really does start to go off it’s best around the 5 year mark. But then most of our cars are garaged / live indoors without UV and at a relatively constant temp. So shouldn’t the tyres last longer? Well, I thought so, until I fell off the road in 2019!! My 14” Michelins with 6.8mm tread on the rears were normally pretty OK. Then I got caught out in a rain shower after a dry spell and coming onto a dual carriageway, onto a long sweeping corner, in second @ 2.5k rpm, when I touched the throttle at no more than 30% there was that real WHOA moment when the rear lost traction and was fought back into line with three pendulums - but not before I went off the road onto a gravel drainage / trap on the side of the road!! I then switched to Bridgestone Turanza T005 tyres and found I could put more than 80% of the power down in the wet!! Hit the same corner several times again in the wet and with more power to prove the point and no issues. I even went to Silverstone the following week and drove around the muddy / wet country roads for the 50th anniversary Retro Run and the track in the pee-ing rain; all with supreme confidence! I guess it depends on how, where and in what conditions you drive. But that experience made me staunch in the belief that they do indeed go off. I just don’t want to go off with them!! Not sure if they are still available on this size but I would highly recommend !

Certain elements of the 240Z electrical system were somewhat, ah, 'under-designed' by Nissan. The headlight circuit (all of it, including the switchgear and right on out to the headlamp sockets) is the leading culprit. The voltage regulator is a quaint anachronism -- easily replaced with a solid-state alternative if you want. There are numerous threads on these issues -- and their remedies -- here on the site. There are also relay-based upgrade mini-wiring harnesses for the headlight system that are conveniently available and at reasonable cost. For the most part, I see no reason to start replacing the connector shells, although replacing the terminals within them is (arguably) a better solution than the Dremel-cleaning strategy. To replace the terminals, you'll need the proper extractor tools and a good crimping tool (all available from Vintage Connections, who have been, in my experience, a quality vendor). We have a couple of leading electrical system experts here on the CZCC site and, if you're lucky, they may choose to add their 50 cents' worth here.

I think craigola actually brought the price down from where it could have gone.

Please stop... oh godd... Where's the cringe emoji...

Looking good Bob. I think I saw your car at Todd’s show several years back....or maybe another show. Twin turbo RB’s are somewhat an overkill for a Z LOL. I rode in one of my friend’s once and almost screamed like a girl! My son is building this one, but it’s gonna be NA.

Yet another reason to eat mints rather than gum.

if it looks like this, maybe you should take it to the Vet. 😁

My dogs butt looks like a wad of chewing gum.

When I first saw the title I thought it said "Total dog butt". Maybe it should have.

That dog is about $3,240 too much. I've had better S30 cars given to me. People would offer me a car for $200, and I'd be like, "I'll haul it away for you if you have a title." They would whine some, I'd explain the tiny amount it would get at the scrap yard, their wife would give them an elbow in the ribs, they would fork over the title and help me load it up.

That's a Fred Flintstone Z.

Um...don't mess with it. I don't see anything wrong with those numbers or with the ammeter action.

Thanks Site.....this will be my last one.....cost more than my first Z.

Final resting place.......

Just recently tried to pick up some fasteners at my local Fastenal. They recently started a new policy where there was a minimum $ amount of $25 for non-account holders. Not sure if this is corporate wide or not.