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About Vorticity

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    Kansas City

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  1. I've been searching various sites online for something in the 205-215 width, but there's not much to choose from. I've got some Potenza's on there now that are about 10 years old and kinda hard and slippery. Any recommendations? Thanks!
  2. I was very disappointed in the speed bleeder approach. Just couldn't get all the air out. Had to resort to someone helping me do it the old fashioned way.
  3. I'm guessing that your brake booster is shot? Once brake fluid gets in there, it messes up the diaphragm. I just had to replace mine due to a leaky master cylinder. I had done the clutch master and slave years ago. I seem to remember needing to transfer over the original push rod on the clutch master to the new one, because the new master had a shorter rod. The shorter rod wasn't long enough even with the pedal connection spun all the way to the end. It just didn't have enough throw to completely disengage the clutch.
  4. Vorticity

    Bolting in Seats

    I forgot to mention the ratcheting box end wrench. I've got a different model that I used, probably from Harbor Freight.
  5. Vorticity

    Bolting in Seats

    I just did this recently. Use some plumbers putty to stick the washer and lock washer on so you don't have to hold them. You can then get the nut started with one hand.
  6. That's what I was thinking
  7. Ok, finally got the brakes bled. I ended up getting speed bleeders. Took it for a spin and had great brakes. Wonderful. It was a cool day, so I turned on the heat. It worked. SO excited, until got home and popped the hood to check things over and saw steam coming out. One of the heater hoses has sprung a leak on the engine side of the firewall. It sprays all over the battery. Looks like another project.
  8. BTW, what an odd wheel cylinder. Only one side moves.
  9. I managed to pry the "shoe" far enough off the piston to be able to fiddle with the piston and get it to retract. Thanks guys. Next issue is that I cannot get the brakes bled properly. Squishy peddle that gets firm when you pump it. I bled in what I think is the proper order. Bench bleed the new master, then bleed left rear, right rear, right front, left front. I'm tired. I'll tackle it another day.
  10. Do you think I need to take the pads off to do this? Seems like it. I don't have one of those retainer removal tools.
  11. I don't think there's anything. Here's a picture.
  12. So I did something stupid after replacing my brake booster and master cylinder. I forgot that I had removed one of the drums and got in the car and pumped the brakes. The absence of the drum allowed the piston in the wheel cylinder to overextend and it pushed the its rubber boot loose a bit, causing a squirt of fluid on the garage floor. I was able to push the boot back where it goes and reposition the clip to hold it, but the piston won't go back inside the cylinder far enough to let the pads retract enough to get the drum back on. I cracked the bleeder to release pressure, hoping this would help, but no joy. Am I going to have to pull off the wheel cylinder, take it apart and put it back together? I'm hoping for an easy fix. Got any tips? Thanks, Matt
  13. Thanks for helping me brainstorm. I did play with setting the timing after moving the pickup. To tell the truth, I've messed with that pickup so much and retimed it so many times that I am unsure what all I've tried. I'm taking notes from now on. Anyways, I just think it's set right now, based on how it runs after finally getting the carbs all set. It seems that the run-onn/dieseling is cured, the cold start is cured and the rough running between 1800-2500 RPM is cured. I'll have to see how it runs on first start tomorrow morning to be sure. I did a hot valve adjustment and new plugs to start, too. Only the #1 exhaust was out of spec. The coil gets too hot to hold your hand on for more than a few seconds, but not like a hot stove or something. Did switch out the oil to 3 in 1 per other recommendations. No difference noted.
  14. The choke cables were the problem with the difficult first start. The PO had installed the round tops, and also put a mounting plate under the center console to strengthen the choke lever attachment. However, the mounting plate was actually catching on the screw holding the choke lever, keeping the lever from moving more than half way. I don't think it would ever go all the way forward, either. I was told that this was just the way it was when switching to the round tops while using the flat top choke cables and lever. A little playing around with the nozzles showed me that they never went all the way down when the choke was on. In fact, they barely moved. Basically all the choke was doing was moving the throttle plate a bit. I had to take apart the center console and trim the mounting plate for clearance. I've now got full range of motion on the chokes and the cables are set right. As for float levels, I set them using some clear tubes attached to the drain holes. Set them so that the fuel is 23 mm below the top of the float bowl with the car running. Is that right? Maybe it's too low, because now that I can actually use the chokes, I discovered that pulling the chokes on just a little will cure the the feeling of missing or stuttering at constant throttle between say 1800-2500 RPM. Noticing this, I turned down the nozzles a half turn (now at 3 full turns down), and it runs perfect. Maybe I'll get the colortune out and see what it looks like now, but I hate to mess with it any further. As for the oil in the carbs, I found several recommendations for 20w-50 oil. On a whim, I switched it out for 3 in 1 oil, which also gets lots of recommendations and is definitely lighter weight. Not sure it makes any difference. I think the real difference was getting the chokes working right and getting the mixture set better. Any other thoughts are appreciated. Always helps to have another brain or two! Thanks everyone.
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