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JIDECO A picture in another thread posted today shows an electrical relay (rear window defroster, I think) with the manufacturer's name ('JIDECO') stamped on the side of the cover. I didn't recognize that company, but figured that the 'J' maybe stood for 'Japan' and the 'ECO' for 'Electric Company'. The 'I' and the 'D' were a puzzle, though, so I did a bit of on-line searching. The answer lay in the corporate website of another Japanese manufacturer, 'Mitsuba' (wiper motors) that came up in some of the hits I got using, 'Japan + company + JIDECO' as my search string. Hiding in the 'History' page on Mitsuba's site was this entry: 2007: The Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Jideco) merged with Mitsuba. A bit more poking around revealed that Jidosha Denki's old website was www.jideco.co.jp. However, that site now just shows a message saying that Mitsuba and Jidosha Denki have 'merged' and providing links to the Mitsuba website. An old Bloomberg listing for Jidosha Denki said that they manufactured wipers, power windows and power lock systems and provided a single address: 1760 Higashi-Matanocho, Totsuka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa, 245-8510 Japan. So they were probably located not too far from the Nissan assembly plant in Yokohama. Entering that address into Google Maps shows that it's now listed as, 'Mitsuba Corporation Yokohama R&D Centre'. Street view shows us what the former Jidosha Denki h/q looks like today: Hard to tell whether there's any manufacturing facilities at the back of the property. The front part looks like strictly admin and engineering. The back part may just be lab space. Digging back into Jidosha Denki's history, I found this not-happy story from 1998 in a business trade newspaper: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo has unveiled plans to restructure its operations and those of its subsidiaries, a move which will result in the company's workforce being reduced by 30% to 700 staff by 2000. The company plans to close down three subsidiaries, with production being switched to overseas bases in India, China and Indonesia. The restructuring will leave the company to provide wiper systems, control devices and motors in Japan... Jidosha Denki Kogyo will move all of its mass production of motors for power windows and windscreen wipers to subsidiaries in the Philippines and China for its products to be more cost-competitive to its main client, Nissan Motor. Jidosha Denki Kogyo's two Japanese plants will stop production of these products by March 2002, and will specialise instead in making prototypes and some spare parts, and in assembling complete wiper units." Then in 2002: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo (JIDECO) will have a 35.8% stake acquired by fellow electric motors and wiper systems maker, Mitsuba, affiliate of Honda. JIDECO will issue 15 mil third-party shares on 07 January 2003 as part of the deal. The companies hope that the deal will enable them to improve their cost competitiveness by working together on purchasing, product development and manufacturing. The deal will result in Nissan and Hitachi reducing their stakes in JIDECO to 14.6% and 13.8% respectively." And in 2004: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo, automobile control parts maker, will invest around Y500 mil to restart production at its plant in Tomioka in Japan's Gunma Prefecture. It stopped production at the plant in 2002, but has now decided to use the plant as a major site to improve production technology. It has installed a new assembly line for seat-use operations, which is already in operation; and will transfer another such line from its plant in Kikugawa by September 2004. By March 2005, it will transfer a line for motors used in power windows from Kikugawa to Tomioka." And, finally, this, from the Mitsuba 2006 Annual Report: "The Company has decided to merge with its wholly owned subsidiary Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd., effective April 1, 2007. The Company and Jidosha Denki Kogyo, having been closely working, have agreed on the merger to enhance their synergy as an integrated group and seek greater management efficiency. The Company will be the "surviving entity" under the provisions of Japanese Corporate Law following the absorption and merger of Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd. and its subsequent dissolution." And that was the end of JIDECO.

Back under the Z, the half shafts were next up for a tear down and rebuild. Not a difficult job to do, but one you need to keep in mind the reassembly order and orientation of hardware.

Good luck. Funny that you don't own any Fords.

Working on engine while car at paint. It seemed to operate fine but any suggestions on anything i should since its all out? replace anything just in case (everything is original so like 50 yrs old) thanks

If you bought it recently maybe they still have it in with their cores, They usually don't get picked up until they have a good amount to make the load haul worthwhile. It would be worth a shot to ask. If it is gone I would at least try and get it swapped out for another one. Explain the issue with the brakes and content you think it was rebuilt incorrectly. If the spring is on backwards it will not push against the diaphragm correctly and will not function as intended. Auto Zone should get you another one. Those stores often get bad rebuilds with core product (reman's)

The booster is from Autozone. I sorely regret turning in the core. The was a lock washer and seal in the unit. I took them out. since I have it out, and it came with a warranty, I may see about getting a replacement, just because.

Z Club of Texas is in the DFW area with the emphasis on Dallas. I don't think they have activities in Houston. I tried to find a Houston based Z club for someone who was on FB asking early Z questions, but it appears as though the Houston club folded a while back.

Timing kit, oil pump and valve seals plus the basics. Water pump, alternator, starter, fuel pump. Depends on what you've done lately. Good luck with it, the blue paint looks good.

You may also want to check out the Houston Z Club, https://www.zcluboftexas.org/ They have a Sponsors page on their site that may be of help as well as the Links page, if all that fails maybe see if there's a way to ask that group as I'm sure someone in there can give shop names. If you want to bring it to Austin then go to Austin Z Clinic https://austinzclinic.com/ and Kevin will take care of you.

I understand the concern. My learning experience about the vagaries of the Z-car oil pressure sending unit happened back in 1974. I was driving my 1971 240Z home through a snow storm in Spokane, WA and there was already 6 inches of snow on the ground. I looked down and saw that the oil pressure gauge was sitting on zero while I drove. I turned into a parking lot immediately, parked and locked it, and walked nearly a mile through snowdrifts to get home. I was living very close on income, so I called Jaremko motors in Spokane to see if they had any ideas. They had an outstanding parts guy, and he suggested a new sending unit. I got a ride to the dealership from a friend the next day, went to my car and changed the sender out in about 5 minutes. Fired it up, got a nice oil pressure reading and drove home. Ever since then, I have taken the readings from the oil pressure system in an L6 Datsun with a certain skepticism.

I haven't noticed any leaks but I would find it hard to believe it would be leaking after a couple of months. I have the two pin connector however one of the wires was for the ecu module which i never had so its only the one wire now going to the gauge. and no red control light or anything. Didn't know if something like this would work but worth a try, just ordered it I will test hopefully sometime this week when it gets delivered. I really don't want to move towards aftermarket because I like the look I currently have. Just ordered a gauge, I will post once I install and do some testing. My gauge reads below 0 at idle when the engine is hot so it almost seems as if the gauge isn't working until I start driving. At idle when the engine is hot, the gauge reads below 0 on the stock pressure gauge in the interior, basically like as if the gauge isn't working or the car is off, the moment I start driving the gauge instantly works its way back up above 10 psi. I have a mechanical gauge on the way, I will update the results once I get to testing. I believe I have the stock l28 oil pump. I never changed it and not sure if the previous owners ever changed it or upgraded.

As some of you know, I am in the process of moving from Michigan to Arizona. I have sold my house and am going through the mortgage process on a house in AZ. The move is from a transfer within Ford where I work. I am tired of the cold and the terrible roads, so I got a new job within the company at our Arizona proving grounds outside of Phoenix. The company will move me as well as two cars. I currently have five cars, so I sold one today. That leaves my wife's FJ Cruiser, my Porsche 911, my '78 280Z street car and my late 260Z endurance race car. The Porsche will by my DD along with the 280Z. That leaves the race car. I planned to take it out there, but the more I try to justify it, I just cannot do it. I will have no space in the garage for the car or any spare race car parts, so that puts the car in a permanent storage facility. Not being street legal and me with no trailer means, I can't even move the car around to work on it or race it. My only choice is to sell it. I leave in just over a month and the car is currently on a hoist with the rear suspension off. I plan to work my butt off in the next few weeks to get it back together and off the hoist. I know I will take a beating on the car, but it MUST go. Here's what it is. It was originally built for LeMons and then upgraded for ChampCar and WRL endurance racing. The good: 74.5 260Z with a full race cage. Body is pretty clean with only a bit of rust in the bottom of the rear quarters behind the wheels and a few small holes on the passenger side rear floorpan plus battery tray. No door glass and Lexan hatch glass and quarter window glass. Homemade front airdam and rear spoiler. L28 F54 block with shaved P79 head, Web Racing camshaft, header, MSA premium exhaust, and 3 screw SU carbs. Brand new BHJ Rebello harmonic damper, ZX matchbox distributor 82 ZX 5 speed transmission, lightened factory flywheel, 3.90 R200 diff with RT mount Suspension is fairly stock with KYB strut cartridges, poly bushings, front cross member redrilled for bump steer, large stabilizer bars front and rear Brakes are going on now which are typical Toyota 4x4 calipers w/vented Z31 rotors and T3 spacers up front and Mustang GT vented rotors and calipers with Silvermine caliper bracket in rear. Brand new rear wheel bearings going in now. I have two sets of brand new 15" Rewind wheels that have never been mounted Momo race seat and Crow belts Stock fuel tank with 1/2 gallon swirl tank. Facet fuel pump to pump fuel into the swirl tand and Carter pump to move fuel to the engine The Bad: It's a race car built for LeMons, so it's not pretty Wiring is a mess, but it works. I planned to rewire the entire car before racing it again Interior is dreadful in that it has sheet metal gauge housings and switch plates Currently has no tires since I am doing the brake upgrade which require 15" wheels. I will likely put very old junk tires on a set of the Rewinds to make it mobile Brakes will need a Wilwood 1" Master cylinder and a prop valve which I have no time to do before I leave No title. I bought it out of a barn where it sat for 20 years and I never worked to get a title. Instrument panel (dash) is gone, so there is no rveted VIN plate. Stamped VIN is present on firewall Overall, it runs great and handles extremely well. It will need a bit of work to finish since I am in the middle of upgrading the brakes. It needs to be gone in about 4-5 weeks. Make me a reasonable offer. I have a ton of money in it, but it must go. I'm thinking $5,000 for the car, two sets of brand new wheels, and a bunch of various spares including a few hoods, lots of fenders, headlight buckets and other various stuff I've collected. I'll post a bunch of pics later. They are on my other laptop. The facebook link in my signature has more pics as well.

Good Luck on your move Jeff..........

Not quite sure what you mean by below zero oil pressure. The lubrication system isn't capable of producing negative pressure. The stock gauge uses a pressure transducer (the sending unit) to vary the voltage to the gauge. Even when the sender and gauge are in perfect working order, it is not very accurate. Tee in a mechanical gauge, 0 to 100 psi, and compare the reading to the electric gauge. Ten pounds of oil pressure for every 1,000 RPM is the rule of thumb for adequate oil pressure in any engine. So at idle, 10 to 15 PSI is adequate. Older engines with loose bearing clearances will run a little low at idle, but there should still be pressure as described above. Does your engine have a turbo oil pump? The turbocharged L series engines had a higher volume pump that produced a bit more pressure, and the relief spring can be changed, or shimmed, to bump the pressure up a bit. A direct swap for non turbo engines.

Out of curiosity... If someone buys this car for $5K, can it be used as a Lemons car again? Haha!!

I had a Fusion lease car, but once we started working from home, I never drove it, so I didn't lease another one. I bought a Saab 900 Turbo for $800 as my winter DD. I sold that today. 🙂

I thought Southern was hard to write out but damn, you got me.

I've been driving through Osoyoos and Penticton and seen it hit 42C, BC has it all.

Found one on Oklahoma. Call this number. It’s a salvage yard. 918-422-8829 Their stock number for that engine is 868. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I played this and many others on an old Jam box. Usually while riding skateboards or running Cox cars. I'm old...

Low oil pressure readings are a consistent problem that many Z owners experience. Something like this will give you a clear idea of what your pump is doing, https://www.amazon.com/MEANLIN-MEASURE-0-100Psi-Stainless-Glycerin/dp/B08HRQKW8F/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=oil+pressure+gauge&qid=1612964155&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDMUg5QkYxUjJGTjcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMTUxOTgyRjBHSklGUFU4UEJWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MjMxMjlRTDg0NzhUVE1HQjcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl Replace the oil pressure sensor with gauge just make the the pump is working properly and give yourself some peace of mind. As for a long term solution I just finally replaced the gauge and sender with new aftermarket units.

It would probably help to add some force from underneath while you're prying up from the top side (forked trim removal tool). Maybe you could make up a levering tool and insert it through the hole shown to the right in your photo. Say, from a length of 1/4" steel bar stock with a bend in it. With the bend positioned right at the point where the bar exits the hole, the sheet metal would act as a fulcrum. 3/16" steel rod with a flattened tip would be another option. Either way, you'd be able to generate at least some upward pushing force that would help to reduce what would otherwise be 100% reliance on putting tension into the plastic tit. A bit of spray lube won't hurt, either.

Its the same for the UK market cars, maybe a Europe thing.

Cool Info. Here is another Euro car with the same rear bumper lights and spoiler. Hubcaps indicate >1971 @siteunseen's friend.

A friend of mine had been looking for that VIN for 20+ years - but I think he got the VIN wrong because he was looking for a Blue/Blue combination. This one was Gold/Black.. Anyway surprised to see it show up. Yes it looks like a reasonable by at that price...

From idea to test Fit in a week. Cnc cut next week. Only tweak is matching the step and radius of the step to the throttle bodies. This will be a decorative mount for a single piece fuel rail.

But then there is the 63-65 Riviera,

Well this looks good! Next project is to figure out is the single piece fuel rail and mounts plus injectors. Then they are ready to go on. Vintage SK ITB is coming together.