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ZCSD was invited to see the new Z prototype at the Nissan Design Center in San Diego so I took a few pics

The cat is overcome with a severe case of static electricity today.

All hand made! Time is money...

And I put a furry blue sour cream container in the trash can today that I should have recycled. @Dave WM and I are clearly wildmen living the American dream!! In my own defense, out of the corner of my eye, I think I saw it move under it's own power. I didn't want to stick anything in it to clean it out.

Exactly, just like the stylus on a record player. My co worker and I were discussing whether or not it played while driving. We were thinking it would have skipped as well. I found a few on eBay but nobody opened it up. It just has three screws on the record side and 4 on the PCB side.

I really want to switch to a turbo motor... someone knock sense into me or I might just do an LS swap. 😟

Steve’s right on. You fixed the wrong thing first . Relays would make your headlights 10 times better . I upgraded to Cibie headlight lens , but also relays . Both are a great improvement , but relays are the biggest improvement and save you headlight combo switch and your fuse box too

Unless you have relays in the headlight circuit, the issue is that your voltage is too low. I have played around with different types of headlights. I have standard H4 lights at the moment, but the stock wiring is now controlling relays, and I have power for the lights going through the relays instead of the headlight switch. Just a couple of volts increase can make a world of difference in lighting. You'll find that you won't get much more light from the higher wattage bulbs until you address the voltage problem. By the way, I hope that is a typo and you ordered 7" housings.

My local station is currently selling at £1.17 / litre which is consistent with your US gal figures or $6.95 UK gallon. When I bought my first car in 1995, it was as low as £0.38 / litre. How is it we haven’t gone out with our pitch forks? Well, it’s the boiling a frog situation! Little by little it rises and people just swallow it. We did have protests back in the early 2000s when it hit £1 / litre but people soon forget and move on. You could argue it’s offset by wage inflation and car efficiency going up. But what kills me is that 70% of our fuel price here is tax! Also, every time I see an Arab number plate on a n illegally parked gold super car / Lamborghini in central London (clearly flown over on a private 747 for kudos) I can’t help thinking I own a small share of that car given what we spend at the pumps! Rant over!

I fear that the next step (in both Canada and the US) may be the implosion of the healthcare system due to a combination of worker fatigue, fear, resentment and (sadly) illness. And, by 'worker', I include doctors and nurses. There is a useful article in today's Toronto Globe and Mail that discusses the measures taken by local and state governments in and around Melbourne, Australia back in the late summer to address the emergence of a post-first-wave spike that they feared would get out of control. Three months later, they look like geniuses. Melbourne, by the way, is similar in population and geographic size to a typical medium-size US city. Worth a read.

Agreed, the thing regulating oil usage will be price, and the time is in view when that will happen. The problem occurs if the price doesn't rise consistently and gradually enough to prompt and fund development of other energy sources *and* the infrastructure to distribute them, as well as shift the design of the automotive fleet. IMO it's a big mistake of the US not to have taxes which create oil prices similar to those in Europe, but of course we know why that hasn't happened. Gas prices are artificially depressed to keep the population happy, and I admit I'm one of those who benefit. If gas was $5 a gallon (it's currently averaging $5.79 a gallon in Great Britain) there would be a shift in driving habits immediately. The additional billions could be put to work developing those alternative energy sources and distribution infrastructure. That's not going to happen in the US for political reasons until we're up against the wall. Whether that will be in time to shift the infrastructure and vehicles is open to question.

It definitely works during driving. If you open the door, "ding". My first zx was an 81 with no voice warning, my second was an 83, and knew nothing about bitchin Betty, right until "Ding, fuel level is low".

Your bores look normal to me. Mine had that unused top grunge. The rings don't go that far up. Looks to me like your front carb was out of adjustment and carboned up #1 #2 and #3 cylinders, bores and valves, maybe from over fueling? "that'll buff out!" Sorry Dutchzcarguy if I caused you a lost sale.

@EuroDat, I have not picked up the slave yet as I will be replacing the engine/transmission after the brake work is complete and I'll work on the clutch slave at that time. I will likely use the later slave, I'll be running a later model 5-speed (either from a 280Z or 280ZX, I have not decided which one yet).

Ah ok. Yeah as long as we´re at least 10 people they gonna do a mold and start producing it. Then the options would be no heating or horizontal heating... vertical heating is possible but would require another tool been made, so here is the demand probably to low. Regarding tinting... atm they are trying to get a glass supplier for that blue glass. If they´re able to find the right thicknesses they will produce oem looking blue tint glass. If not we have to see what options we have. I should know more about that next week. And then they will provide a more detailed price too, as the one mentioned are only rough calculations.

Cool. I know was jumping in and assuming I understood what you were talking about and I'm glad I didn't just make things worse. So from the fact that the 510 latch has a longer handle, I'm thinking the 510 latch is mounted further from it's hood edge than the Z's? You need that longer handle so you don't have to reach so far under the lip for your fingers to hit the tab?

The running out of oil prediction has a few flaws in its logic. Sure it’s a finite resource and peak oil was predicted to occur between 1965 and 1970. Since then we have found new reserves and the bell curve keeps sliding right. If we continue to use oil unabated like we are then sure one day it will be gone, 50 or 100 years nobody really know but this isn’t the whole story and how the law of supply and demand work. The last barrel of oil will be the most expensive barrel by far but that won’t happen for likely hundreds of years and may never happen. Oil is used in the manner it is because the cost per amount of stored energy is unsurpassed. The US for the first time since maybe the 50’s has become the worlds largest oil producer and no longer dependent of foreign oil. A national security blessing. As oil becomes harder to find the find prices will go up more and more. At some point it no longer becomes the best back for the buck and people will use an cheaper alternatives. When a gallon of gas is $75 you’ll stop driving your Z. That’s when I call Captain Obvious (have him on speed dial) and figure out how we retro fit my Z with an old Tesla motor. Nobody will want or need that last barrel of oil because it will be obsolete and outrageously expensive. I don’t think I’ll see this in my lifetime but who knows. For sure my kids will have make this transition. Until then enjoy your Z on the open roads of America or Europe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the rear hatch glass is meant..? An amerikan/english confusion.. 😉 Are they gona make them tinted and in blank glass? the 240z's glas is tinted blue-ish..

Like on a ordinary record the needle passes through the groove, normally it only has one LONG groove. Here there are about 10? different grooves all lying next to each other, the Needle "knows" what track it must take by the different inputs.. It's simple technique but a reliable system Haha.. Thank you very much for the interesting video! BTW.. I think that it can be used during driving, how could BB (bitching Betty (so funny!)) warn otherwise for low on fuel? "ding" " I'm still good for another 300,000 Miles " "ding" ...

Another thing to look out for with the clutch master cylinder is the poor quality assemly work. The parts are good quality, but the pre-assembly cleaning is not. You often find metal shavings left over from machining the cylinders. This can destroy the rubber cups and cause early failure. It is recommended to dismantle the master and slave cylinder and clean them thoroughly before use. Do not use gasoline or aggresive degreasers, but use a simple brake cleaner spray can. Assemble with grease suitable for EPDM rubber. A lot of people don't realise the brake and clutch systems use EPDM rubber where the fuel and radiator systems use NBR or FKM fluoropolymer (viton). EPDM does not go well with gasoline. While you are at it, it would be a good idea to change the clutch hose. It generally doen't endure the forces and movement the brake hoses go through, but it can age over the years.

Did you pick up a slave cylinder for your clutch system? I can only see the master cylinder in the Z store link. You can use both types of slave cylinder and they will work perfectly. You have the early model clutch fork with the hole through it, so you will need to re-use you push rod in the later type slave cylinder. If you do use the later version slave cylinder, do not use the external spring. The slave cylinders function a little differently. Early type with manually adjustale push rod and return spring: The spring pulls the pushrod back until the slave cylinder piston bottoms in the slave cylinder. Setting frre travel is done by adjusting the push rod until there is no free travel and then turning the nut 1.5 turns back. The throw out bearing is free from the pressure plate. Later type with fixed length push rod: The slave cylinder has a small internal spring that applies a small amount of force on the push rod. The spring has a free length of about 25mm. Normally you can apply pressure on the clutch fork with your hand and the push rod will compress about 10 to 20mm depending on clutch plate wear. When you release your hand it will return to its rest position and take out all free play in the clutch fork. The throw out bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate. If you use the later version, adjust it by bottoming the push rod and adjust the nut until the distance between rest position and bottoming is about 10 to 15mm. You will never need to adjust it again, the clutch disc will be long worn out before the 10mm free travel is gone.

Haha! Glad to help. I didn't get it at first either.

What is your address PM me and I will send them out in tomorrow’s mail. Do you need a rush?

Great ingenuity. Many of the Datsun family hood latches are very similar. There are hood latches, out there, you didn’t look in the right place. I have a few 240/260/280 hood latches that are replated real purdy that I’d part with, but it seems you have your solution right there. Nice work

That's one of the reasons why we're heading back to the moon, despite the agreements that were signed 60 yrs ago about no country claiming mineral rights or territory on the moon, you can bet your life that if a cost effective way is found there will be mining.

I certainly took great care in the rod measurement/adjustment. I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QGXY55/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 On the booster it came with a new pin for attaching to the brake pedal.

I am also putting Speed Bleeders everywhere! On the front calipers, rear wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder, and so on.