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About PrincePaul

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  1. Alright guys, thanks for your input. it’s fixed now. The standard coil condenser which was on the plus side stock is now on the minus side of the coil to smoothen out the signal. worked perfectly. Haven’t tried high rpm but signal is there so far. just have to buy a new one so I don’t have to relay on the 40 year old one. does someone know which Typ it is? Can’t find anything in the FSM. Maybe one of you knows how much farad it has? Btw: i also checked the other mentioned things: resistor was 2.2k the Stock coil as well as the new Bosch red have
  2. Yes that’s all gone. @Zed Head it gets power from the ignition position of the key pin 15 and if the coil produces sparks the minus of it closes the circuit for the relay. Kinda - something makes that relay special otherwise it would be a normal switch relay. but I try this first next time. If that’s the problem than we’ve to figure out how to make that system work differently maybe with a optocoupler or so.
  3. No it’s a relay that powers the pump when ignition is sensed via the coil negativ. It does not supply power to the coil. It goes to coil pickup 1 which is the negativ side. yes the factory unit it all gone also factory ecu. Yeah I’ve the old one from the positiv side of the coil, which I could easily hook up to the negativ side. But I’ll also try removing the fuel safety relay wire just in case. so 4 possible solutions right now: 1. wire problem, but as it senses something I guess not the case maybe still ground problem. Should be easily checked by direct wiring or p
  4. Yes the blue wire. That one basically goes only from coil minus to tach, nothing else. that’s the diagram for the pump. It basically shuts the pump off if you’ve an accident.
  5. Thanks I’ll check. I also found in some other thread that someone installed a capacitor like on the generator or coil in the sense line to smooths out the signal or a diode. There is easy access to the resistor I might try those but now that the dash is in its really hard to get to the back side of the tach. Especially cause the dash has a cover on it…
  6. Hey Guy´s. I´ve the exact same problem/behavior like the thread starter but with a 280z. So I should have the tach that works right away with the 123 dizzy, but it doesn´t. Mine is MJ 78 so it comes with no ballast resistor and with transistor ignition unit from factory. During the restoration I changed the stock coil to a red Bosch with no resistor and removed the stock ignition unit completely. The 123 is hocked up iaw instructions, red to coil+, black to coil - and blue to ground. Elec. Fuel injection is removed completely as well -> exchanged with
  7. I send the list of people willing to buy one to the manufacturer a couple days back. They finished calculating the shipping costs for all outside Germany and will contact you individually via given email address. Leadtime is three weeks. If all who send me a message are staying committed we´re making it 😄 Thank you all. Dennis
  8. Alright guys, the final prices are here. Frist there is still no supplier for the raw glass the manufacturer would need to produce lighter door glass or rear hatch glass....they are still working on it thou. But they will go in production with the windscreens now. There will be two thicknesses available. One that consists of two 1,6mm panes which actually got a bit cheaper and one that is made out of two 2,1mm panes. Both blue tinted like OEM. Both with DOT and E Sign. 2,1/2,1mm 240€ 1,6/1,6mm 390€ That
  9. UPDATE: At the moment there is no supplier for blue tinted glass in the right thicknesses in Europe. The manufacturer is looking into other markets to still produce it. For the Windshield they are gathering data for the necessary test to obtain the DOT and E approval. I ask for a Kit in clear glass as well, so lets see. These are the ones they start to produce now as lightweight version: Audi VW BMW Porsche Ma
  10. As far as I´m aware of its the glass itself. Exactly, thats why door glass and rear hatch have it as well. And thats also why its hard to get your hands on the raw glass for manufacturing our windows...
  11. Ah ok. Yeah as long as we´re at least 10 people they gonna do a mold and start producing it. Then the options would be no heating or horizontal heating... vertical heating is possible but would require another tool been made, so here is the demand probably to low. Regarding tinting... atm they are trying to get a glass supplier for that blue glass. If they´re able to find the right thicknesses they will produce oem looking blue tint glass. If not we have to see what options we have. I should know more about that next week. And then they will provide a more detailed p
  12. What do you mean by rear screens? Never heard that wording S30 related 🙄
  13. Hey guys, you might have seen my posts in the various facebook groups over the last couple of days, but finally I´ll post here too, after I gathered most infos about the commonly asked questions. I’ve a glass manufacturer on hand who will produce new glass for our S30 Z’s (2 seater) It will be thinner and therefore also lighter but still obtain all safety regulations including the E sign and also the DOT number. So fully street legal in Europe and the US including all necessary testing that goes with it. Some might think thinner means a weaker windshield and al
  14. Alright, so basically get rid of the whole stock ignition system. New coil and 123 dizzy - done. What is it about now with the 1 ohm, because sometimes 1,5 ohm comes up as minimum. As far as I found out the BOSCH RED has 1,2 without the extra resistor. Should be about right than and is probably one of the only parts I can actually get here in germany directly
  15. Alright, the whole wiring loom is on the table anyway. So isn`t a big deal to remove some more. Proper coils like the Bosch RED 0 221 119 030? How do you wire up systems like msd 6al or the crane ones with the 123 - shouldn`t they be similar to the transistor unit already in the car?
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