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I love that blue car!

Given enough time, @Captain Obvious could roll out a whole Z on his lathe 🙂 Nice work,... lol that is how I was thinking to skin the cat too.

This photo doesn't begin to do the craftsmanship justice. Beautiful and crisply executed in a manly manner. (if you get the point) My personal favorite is the one in brass. I'll be installing it on Zilver soon so it will always be with me on the car. A cherished possession crafted by my skilled Captain! I know Jim Frederick of Z Mecca fame------we've been friends for a long time. His offerings are genuine and real--no worries there. Pricey?? Yes, but when was the last time you saw a NOS one. A lot this Z stuff has gotten out of range of most of us. I agree with the Captain---if it came with the box and original packaging (if any) it might be worth it. His garage has ~20 pristine 240Z cars. He doesn't need the money, so I'm surprised he is selling.

In all his other listings for NOS parts, it always has the Nissan package or bag or box the item came in. Not so for this auction and I say show me the Nissan box it came in. The tip on his antenna doesn't look quite right to me. I've made better. @Zup LOL, or maybe my skepticism meter is just tuned a little too sensitive after that 31K mile 240Z on BAT. Haha!

I think it's only the insulator length that is changed. Your drawings show a longer threaded portion but I don't think that's right. Here's NGK's stuff. Look at the porcelain. Threads are the same though. https://www.ngk.com.au/technical_info/heat-range/

Here's a video of the run: The production on video itself is rather terrible, but watching the speed climb on the run is unreal: 300+ and it's still pulling. Bonkers. I don't know how many people here are NHRA fans, but this thing is hitting top fuel speeds. Just crazy.

Wants too much for shipping, I'll pass...

Well after forty years of ownership I'm finally starting a second go around at restoring my 1970 240Z. I purchased the car well used in 1978 with 90,000 plus miles from the local Datsun Dealership in Chilliwack, BC Canada. Here is a picture from July '78: Here is what it looks like today. Looks reasonable but the paint is showing its age and there are some other issues lurking that need to be fixed properly. Full disclosure will come later. Restoration number one was done in 1982 and I only did what I could afford at the time. I actually think this first attempt of was really "Canadian maintenance", my poor Zed was at a do or die point. Here are a few pics from 1982: I went to the parts department at my local Datsun dealership and made, what I learned later was, the largest order of body parts that anyone had ever placed with them to that point. By the time my body man and painter were finished and with the cost of the car, I could have bought a brand new 1978 280Z instead, but hey I was 18 at the time and I have never regretted doing it. In future installments I will list my restoration goals add a time line of my 40 years of ownership, after I sort and scan more of my old pictures. Anyway I plan to document my adventure with my re-restoration here, and I'm sure I will be looking for advice, also comments and tips will be very welcomed. Cheers, Mike

First of all it’s not the end of the world. I always remind myself that if I took it apart it will probably go back together. So far that has worked. Second I ask assuming we are talking about a 240 door here. Sounds like you removed three of the four screw showing. Good news. First loosing the same three screws don’t remove them. Trying moving things around to get the back in the same location. May have to loosen the fourth one too. If you can see where they were and get them back. Loosely snug them and try the window again. Try helping the glass rise. There are two guides that we hope haven’t moved. There is a roller that the top make sure it isn’t blocking the window. I just spent two days replacing a power window motor on my son Susie. worst case is all window/ body shop can fix it. other here may have more pertinent help. They will help along the journey. More photos always help.

One of these articles might help. https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/body-paint/

Poor guy, he didn't get enough attention when he was young.

Wow!! Now that image is gonna be hard to scrub away

The first thing I would do is degrease all the areas of concern and check regulary after each drive to determine where the leaks are coming from. Oil can spread and give the impression it's leaking from one spot, but accually coming from another. Pay attention to where exactly the leak is. 1. Reverse switch: Is it leaking out the side between the transmission case and switch or out through the rubber boot where the wires are? Leaking through the side is s gasket. Leaking past the wires is a worn out switch. 2. Speedo: Leaking through the cable or leaking out between the speedo "adapter" and transmission casing? Leaking past the adapter is an o-ring seal. Leaking through the cable is a inner Lip-seal and is a little more difficult to change. If either one is leaking, I would replace both seals. 3. Slave cylinder: If it leaks replace it. If you buy a new one, strip it apart and clean it before installing it. The new units often have metal shavings left over from manufacture and that can destroy the new seals. All the parts you mentioned are common leak areas and easy fixes with basic tools.

All three can be accessed without dropping the transmission. You will need ramps or jack stands tall enough to get under the car, though. I haven't messed with the reverse switch in over 20 years, but I think you should be able to find a generic crush washer for the seal. The reverse switch at Rockauto.com shows a rubber gasket. The slave cylinder does not enter the transmission that has the gear oil. If there is a leak there, it may be the sign of a slave cylinder about to fail. (Photos are very helpful to show what you are seeing.)

I run a 195/55/r15 on some ZX Turbo “Swastika” wheels and have never observed the car rub. I don’t know if there is an offset on this wheel. Dunlop Direzza DZ102. Great tire for street use, feels comfortable in the rain too, I’m in California so it’s not very cold around here. I do think I could run a 205 and get away with no rub.

Haha!! I can't make that in my shop. But I did make these:

Haha! But with most cars, the little canards and winglets and dips and curves are just there for show. On this car, moving at the speeds it can attain, I bet all that stuff is actually functional! They'd need to fit me with an adult diaper before getting into that thing.

Keep your meter right where it is calibrated Captain! That stuff has to be called out to keep us straight with the truth and you would be a pilot.

This thread has been making me sick. Just to think that there are poor, innocent z's out their begging for someone to end their suffering. God turned his eye from a few z's (one of his proudest creations) for but a moment, only to turn back and see these monstrosities!

Not a lot to do in Richland. Close to Hanford. Pretty dry out there. I used to tell people that there was desert in Washington and they had a hard time believing. It's not all rain. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SSC_North_America

You know, I have a vague recollection of a 75 280 I had once about 30 years ago that had weatherstripping like that. It looked to be some universal weatherstripping that was glued on in an effort to mitigate wind noise. Unfortunately the car is long gone, so I can't go check it out.

You’ve done a great job looking after the car all these years mate! Everything looks brand new! I wish my PO looked after my 240z half as much.... Do you think most components will need restoration or can most stuff bolt straight back in the car after body and paint? Ryan

So not a great deal done on the car lately, had a terrible bout of influenza which took 3 weeks to kick. And had a week long course in between all of that... i did however get my hands on a second hand spot welder! It’s had a fall and is missing some parts but it should do the job. Got it for $350 (AUD) Missing arms/electrodes and a 15a power plug. So didn’t get to test it prior to purchase, but the guy seemed trustworthy and said he hardly used it and said to bring it back if it doesn’t work. Not too big a deal. Opened it up today to see if anything internal was damaged when they dropped it. All looks good inside. I’ll try straighten it up later. Plan to use this on frame rails, floor pans, rear hatch panel, rear valance, inner/outer rockers, a few other spots and roof skin replacement if I end up doing that on my own. I’m hoping it will save a lot of time and effort.

I've read that detonation can cause the plug gap to close. Detonation does a lot of damage, it can look foreign object damage on the piston top. All it takes is a hot day, some low octane fuel, maybe having the timing off a bit. I like Mark's suggestion. Try a new plug and see how it does. Everything else looks pretty good, the pressure numbers and the other plugs. The pressure numbers are on the high end though, which might mean a high CR, which might be a reason for detonation. If you do hear knocking you can just dial the timing back a few degrees and should be safe.

so i installed the original keyosan denki fuel pump i picked up. i primed the fuel system the way i did before by blowing back on the return line to fill up the fuel filter. started up and drove it around the block for couple minutes and let it idle for about 20 minutes. shut the car off let it sit for 3-4 hours went back outside and the fuel filter was still filled with fuel. started it up no problems starting. we will see if it stays that way while i’m gone for a few days

There was a comment after the auction ended by soquelz, who says "I guess when you get to this level of bidding you want no questions about authenticity." And that about sums it up for me too. If I'm going to pay a lot of money for a car who's "value" lies in it's low mileage and it's originality, I don't want it to come with piles of questions about either of those two things. It's a beautiful car. I'd love to own it. But it's priced way out of my range. And it's important to understand the REASON for such a high price. The REASON for the high price isn't simply because it's beautiful. It's because it's supposed to be a 31K mile car that is all original. If it wasn't being sold as a 31K mile car, or being held up as that beacon of originality, it would most likely not command such a price. Much of the VALUE is in the low mileage and the originality. It seems to me that when there are credible questions about the mileage and the originality, the value cannot be supported. I expect this car will be back sometime in the not too distant future. With the "period correct" carbs and plated hardware and "period correct" wheel covers and no overspray and the seats on the correct sides and, and, and, and........ And, a better, more conclusive story. And if we see it again, I hope it's presented as "Stock", but not "Original". For example... In order for it to be "ORIGINAL", they would have to find the ORIGINAL carbs. And the ORIGINAL wheel covers, etc. I hope they don't try to convince anyone that they magically and mysteriously found the original carbs and wheel covers and put them back on the car. After all the claims of complete originality of the car as it stands today, I would be skeptical of the legitimacy that story.

These floor pans from KF match up with the tunnel really well. No need to slot floor pans and a BFH , they fit .

I have a working Koito headlight on the shelf. Maybe I'll submit it to BaT😀

Pick up some Kroil penetrating oil from Amazon. I’ve tried many different products and have had the best luck with this product. https://smile.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Just getting back into the disassembly of my car after delay due to a few life obstacles. Back in late November I removed the exhaust from the resonator back. Last week removed the seats and seatbelts. I will hopefully be posting more regularly, as I'm wanting to get the shell to the body shop sooner than later. Cheers, Mike

My goal for this restoration is to keep the car as original as possible and bring the condition up to a number two level. When complete I will continue to use the car as I always have, weekend drives, going on club events and the occasional show. I don't want it to be a trailer queen. I get plenty of pleasure from ownership but these cars are meant to be driven. My plan is for the whole process to take about two years. The main focus will be on body and paint, neither of which I will do myself. I am currently looking for a restoration shop to work with. I will not be doing a 100% complete disassembly to the last nut and bolt but rather disassemble into sub-assemblies that can be refinished and if issues are found deal them on a case by case basis. I am also looking for companies to do re-chroming and plating. At a minimum I plan to do the following to accomplish this: - Remove interior and dash and glass. - Remove engine and driveline. - Remove front and rear axles, suspension and steering etc. - Disassemble body as required. Step one will be removing most of the interior so that I can show the complete car to a few restoration shops before the major disassembly is started. The shops I have been talking with so far have a waiting list of about six months so I will have all winter to do the disassembly. Right now I am working on removing most of the interior, so that the resto shops I am talking to can fully access the car to give me reasonable estimates before I get into the major disassembly.

On the plus side, it was done to a 2+2.

Looks like a nice antenna. Say it is NOS. Not sure what i would pay for a NOS one. Buy it now for $2500. Better "deal" than the guy asking $4000 buy it now for a refurbished one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-POWER-ANTENNA-ASSEMBLY-WITH-BULLET-TIP/274540883377?hash=item3febe96db1:g:fIQAAOSwQjdfjfbE