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I ran the car in a production class. Any exhaust system so long as the stock exhaust manifold is used. When I had the exhaust pipe in the stock location it burned my right foot. I tried header wrap, heat shields, you name it. So I built a side pipe, with a Supertrap baffle on the end. That evolved into the shorter pipe in these pictures. The “muffler” isn’t really a muffler. Inside is a spiral of flat stock, wound around a 1” tube. The spiral fits snug inside the tube, is tack welded in place, then the end swaged down on the ends and 3” inlet and outlet welded on. It was sold under the name Loback, and common in stock car exhaust systems. They were available in various lengths and diameters. I had mine aluminum coated (flame sprayed). This was just before Jet Hot coatings became the thing. It has held up very well, but the business that coated it went legs up.

The back seat faced the back window and my daughters would fight to sit back there. There is 5 of them "daughters that is" and we would get some funny looks because of the stunts they pulled back there. Not a seat belt in sight😁 Good days I loved that car. Casey

It’s intent is to warm the carbs when the engine is cold, to improve drivability and reduce emissions. It was found with the issues around heat soak and vapor lock that they wanted to turn that hot water source off so they added a heat activated valve at the back of the last carb to turn the hot water off once the engine was fully warmed. No need to heat the carbs once the whole thing is all toasty. You can see the 73 version in your picture above just behind the red circle. The early Z’s had that line with no restriction. The common thing to do is just lose that coolant line altogether and, if you drive in cool weather, put up with maybe slightly poorer drivability until the car warms up. If you want to keep all the lines and such for nice correct appearance and ease of plumbing, then I’d plug the line internally at some hose connection and get the best of both worlds

Over here, THIS is the sofa on wheels.. And.. yep, this gem is mine.. Ps. the spot under it is water.. i've never seen a goldwing with oil under it! you'll need a italian or english bike for that ! 😁

Cool! I haven't been down there since the additional track was added. These are from the last time I was there. Thunderhill by Racer, on Flickr Thunderhill 2001 by Racer, on Flickr Thunderhill by Racer, on Flickr

Yeah! The West track 2 mile CCW. It’s a pretty good track, I need to sort out a fueling/misfire issue when I run the card really hard, I can’t push the car harder than 1:48 without running into these problems, my buddy in his Honda crx is getting 1:36! Unacceptable!

I had one of these babies for my family in the 80's

LOL. You guys are fun. Looking forward to the pics! Whatever they turn out to be! Haha!!

Went racing this past weekend, been working on this front brace, trying to finish off some models for the strut mount.

Hi All, New member here. To make a very long story, short...back in the late 80's I bought a '73 240Z from a college kid. I ran it up to about 130mph on a test run and blew the rings. I didn't really care because I was going to do a full mechanical restore anyway. At the time I had a big farm in central MO. I bought a donor 240Z of the same yr. I put the donor engine in the original Z only to discover the block was cracked. At that point I decided to take the car to a local restoration shop. Farm was sold shortly after, fortunes lost and the car remained at the restoration place. I sent them money as I could. Father of the enterprise died, son took it over. In my favor, no one there gets in a hurry about anything. I haven't called them in a decade or more and so I made the fateful call a few days ago. Turns out it was the dad's dying wish that I be reunited with the car someday. So....it's there......bodywork 97% done and almost ready to paint. At this point I'm gonna let him paint the car and then come get it. So my big question is;he's taken the whole car apart to paint it. While I like a challenge, I'm not sure I can get the whole car assembled again without some sort of schematic so I know where everything is supposed to go. Is there such a thing?? Kevin

No idea!! Amazing some of the numbers these cars have brought this year

A few more because... why not! Looks pretty mean with the air dam installed. Ignore the rear ride height, the rear doesn't have coilovers installed yet.

I have very little hair for a reason. 5 teenage girls in the same house at the same time. Those days I don't miss.

You could just run a new piece of hose and get rid of the T (Y) entirely. Every plug is a potential leak. And if those braided hoses are original they're ready to blow. The coolant lines to the heater core are probably the most common cause of overheating. I think I just saw two stories about it on the forum, and I have my own story, coming up the Highway 26 hill at night, and not noticing that my temperature gauge was pegged out until I got to the top. Close enough to home to just keep going and hope. The heater core hose had split and was blowing steam by the time I got home. It survived but I was never really sure it hadn't made my head gasket coolant leak worse. Anyway, those old braided hoses are dangerous.

Your extra grill is likely from a 260Z as you suggest. The outer/lower mounting tabs are significantly different than found on a 240Z. Reach into the grill now on your car to find the difference.

Actually, if you consider the thermostat as a "block" that kind of answers the whole question. Blocking it is just like having the thermostat closed. In that little cooling line only, not the main thermostat. Running a "bypass" is the common error when people get in to those types o lines, like for the heater core. Bypasses serve no purpose. I vote for blockage.

Your post reminded me of this book. It's what you really want. https://www.amazon.com/Restore-Datsun-Z-Car-Humble-2002-01-10/dp/B01FIWZ3PG

There is no such thing as a dumb question, except for the one not googled ;). As google doesn’t tell you a lot about this, then this is a good question! :D I have read that the idea was to keep the manifold at a constant temp, improve cold start by heating up the mix and help with atomisation, stop them icing up in the winter - blah blah blah and furthermore blah. In short, it was one of the best things I did to mine. The carbs run “fridge cold” to the touch after a good hard blast around. There is less heat soak and related issues when you stop for fuel on a hot day. Fewer points of failure and leaks (mine was leaking from every possible point). Unless you are driving your car in a subzero winter and worried about carbs icing up, then my advice is take it off. A cool carb is a happy carb and performs better, giving better responsiveness and HP. Oh and it saves weight!!! Every gramme counts, that is why I shave (face and other bits) before I go for a drive!! Not to mention a cleaner engine bay. Here’s a recent photo from when I was testing longer velocity stacks ...

Casey and Reptoid: wow those are wardrobes on wheels!!!!! The funny thing is, when I was a kid growing up in pre-Islamic revolution Iran, those were everywhere and considered quite cool! The big Cadillacs were also ultra cool as we used to teqvel long distances from one end of the country to another in total luxury! Dutchman: that is a seriously cool bike! [emoji106][emoji106] It really is the two wheeled equivalent of a sofa on wheels. One of my fond memories of working in Holland was the CRAZY large multi-sorry bicycle parks!!!

The water rinsing removes/dilutes the acid. Using baking soda is a belts and braces if you just use muriatic. If I were to do it now, I would do: 1. Chain/ vibration to remove surface rust 2. Muriatic Soak 3. Rinse with water 3. Phosphoric 4. Rinse 5. Hot air dry 6. Sealer

Thanks for this, even though I have read @wheee!'s thread I couldn't remember who posted that fix. For others see pages 36 thru 39 on Mark's build thread, great work.

OK, OK... So it did happen. Thanks for the pics. It looks like you're headed for the typical floor and frame rail work. How about the more complicated areas like the doglegs. They look OK?

Check out Wheee's build thread. He provides a nicely illustrated, step-by-step guide of how to fab this doubler plate (along with replacement of the entire frame rail, from front to rear).

Left myself wide open there, didn't I?

Why don't you just use a small flat or square file to file the current rectangle to fit ninety-degrees? Like this. Won't be quits as strong as original, but with a washer under the head of the clamping screw, it ought to work:

Shouldn’t that be on an “Original bottoms” thread of sorts? Or indeed on a rather illicit PM to CO? Just sayin’ !!

Watching the news about the crazy plot to kidnap the Governor of Michigan and noticed the lamp behind the guy talking. Check out the plugs in the base.

For three hundred bucks I can make my own, from stuff I have lying around, and have money for my Z cars.

Looks like I’ll e getting some freeze cans. I had some air duster cans that worked well to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cobra Kai gadget!

If you were lucky the folks bought one of these in the '90's

Fantastic! Glad you found it. No calibration. About the only requirement (other than a decent fit with the body when the hatch is closed ) is that it touches the seal all the way around and doesn't let exhaust in! I worked on a friends car few weeks back. Bad exhaust smell, maybe the worst ever. Checked and or plugged all the usual holes. The worst was that wide trim panel under the hatch with the 10 fasteners. It was warped and nasty. Replaced that, and still had bad fumes. I did check the hatch seal weather strip, it was brand spanking new and installed well. Finally, I put a piece of letter paper over the seal at the back and closed the hatch, then tugged on the paper to see how tight the seal was against the hatch. Well the paper fell out on its own. Got down there and looked into the hatch area and saw daylight!!! Lots of it! Holy wind tunnel Batman! Turns out the slam panel had been replaced during the recent restoration, but it was done wrong. It was flat and positioned too low. Seal never had a chance to touch or seal most of the way across the back. Had to resort to adding a good 1/2-3/4" additional foam stick-on weather-strip to the underside of the hatch so that it touched the seal when the hatch was closed. Far from ideal, but how do you fix that without making a real mess?

Some links I came across. http://datnissparts.com/4-5-synchro-hub-datsun-competition-nissan-motorsports-f5c71b-direct-drive-5-speed-also-is-3-4-hub-in-the-non-usa-fs5c71b-close-wide-ratio-5-speed-32605-e9500/ http://lescollinsracing.com/transmission/gearbox https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50549-fs5c71b-transmission/ http://www.nnzcc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/240Z_-Factory-Transmissions-knowledge-overview-Options-and-Specs-JDMjunkies.chJDMjunkies.pdf Same post, different site https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2016-06-07/240z-transmissions-manuals-swap-possibillities/

Hi Mat, If you do plan on rebuilding the FS5C71 you might want to try contacting SW Motorsport in Sydney, Australia. They did have the 1st to 4th gear porche type synchros. They still have the 5th gear porsche type synchro for $145 Australian dollars which is about €95. https://www.swmotorsport.com.au https://www.swmotorsport.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=1150

Fuel pumps do wear out eventually. But, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Noise from the pump usually means it's working harder, either pushing or pulling . You could have a clogged filter or junk in the tank. In the same vein, on the hesitation, when was the last tune-up? Pretty common to get so used to a good running engine that you overlook the periodic maintenance. I remember spending a lot of time looking for a big problem on a car when it just needed new plugs and points.

In my opinion, if your already getting the driver side replaced, pull up the passenger section and check how it is. It’s better to know what’s under. I replaced the sound deadening with something like dynamat.

And a few more photos I had from the paint booth.

Super, , thats what i am looking for, perfect🙂

If the rotor arm is still in there, I wonder if it goes into disco mode? [emoji848] Amazing eyes Zed Head!

Hi Jason, I can’t answer for M-speed, but the reason for the changes could be them taking into consideration how the wheel is cast and/or machined, the offset they chose (if different). But I think it is more how M-speed “modernized” “ interpreted “ “put their stamp on” their design with homage to the original Kobe Seiko Z432 wheel, but still with a huge amount of influence. On a side point of interest, Kobe Seiko could be said that they took their/Nissan’s design of the Z432 wheel (and Works rally wheel?) by making their own interpretation, and marketing it separately. Known as the Maglloy. It does look similar to the Z432/Works wheels, especially if you grind off the “Kobe Seiko maglloy” casts off the front of the wheel and machine the hub boss down (which Alan says he was told happened way back when original Z432 wheels were in short supply from being damaged/worn out, in Japan). can you spot what is missing in the photo? I think it is also a 1970’s-ish “in period” design with a different variations thing going on. The 280zx “iron cross” wheel (did Kobe Seiko make them?) and Kobe did a 13”, see photo below.

Finally had a car show that wasn't cancelled. I just wish it could have been when the temperature was below average.

Reassembled the horn components and placed the wheel for effect. The cling wrap is just there to protect the paint for now.

Son in law did the finish welds on the reinforcement plates. I did more spot weld removal on the frame rails...