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Everything posted by heyitsrama

  1. Apologies for the misleading title. I did not fully look into the ad, I saw scarab in the text, and figured I’ll post it in case someone had a need for it.
  2. https://santabarbara.craigslist.org/pts/d/santa-barbara-1974-datsun-260z-parts-car/7500420356.html Looks like a project, but decent price.
  3. I was able to place an order with jp-carparts for the 23T reverse idler 32282-E9000 ($45) shipping was 37$ so I added some rollerbearings as they are more expensive from within the USA (2x cost). It's going to take a month as its a built to order part..... good thing i pulled that L28ET from the junkyard.....
  4. I'm assuming you have another car while the Z is down... Get a good amount of fuel hose, attach one side to the fuel pump and pump it into a jerrycan, then pour that into the other car. I use a big ol cement mixing tub to wash parts out. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Black-Large-Concrete-Mixing-Tub-A-42/318924309 It works pretty well, i guess you could also pour the fuel into this, but its gonna smell... and be a fire hazard.
  5. There’s some nice threads on this forum that talk about alternative hoses that you can get from any auto parts store. The stupid expensive one does some a 180* turn, I just used some metal 90* elbows in its place. I’d give you more threads but I gotta get back to yard work. 😞
  6. Super confused about the main nut being right hand threaded... this is a close ratio gearbox (borg warner style syncros, no-dust-shield over the drive shaft, one exhaust hanger on the housing). I destroyed a bit of the nut to get it off, but I was expecting to be able to find a replacement, looks like they are all NLA... I think I'm the only person that has been inside the gearbox, no random color sealant, only one spot on each nut where they were striked in to keep them from spinning...
  7. Alright, I got most of the gearbox apart today, I found out that the main shaft nut is actually right hand threaded, not left like I wrote above (good thing I did not order it yet). Most of the bearings feel OK, with the exception of the counter-shaft rear end bearing, it's a bit rough. It's a bit hard to find that reverse idler gear (23Teeth), I'm emailing jp-carparts to see if they have anything. I don't know if i need to replace the reverse main gear, it looks discolored, and MOST of the teeth are ok (6-7 have chips) This "aftermarket" replacement looks to be half the cost of what jp-carparts shows for 32245-E9801... Not sure of the quality (how many factories really made these gears?) Is throwing money at an OEM part in this case a waste? https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h-transmission-5th-reverse-gear-slider-36t-fits-81-92-nissan-cars-trucks-nis-36/
  8. I would consider replacing the fan clutch with an OE replacement. I've heard of people attempting repairs and using the same oils that are used in some electronic / gas powered model cars.... 😕 Here is a link to an AtlanticZ PDF that talks about rebuilding the OEM clutch unit. FAN 280zx Datsun rebuild fan clutch.pdf It was from @240260280 in this thread In that thread they talk about a silicon oil, but i dont see a reference to any weights (cst). Here is another supplier https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-seiki-silicone-differential-oil-50ml-1000cst-mugb0324/p453219 New fan clutch can be had for $30 bucks probably. 😇
  9. I ran electric fans/shroud on my car and I had issues with the thermostat that would control the electrical fans. I got off the track one time and the dang fans were not on. I saw @ around 4:30 these dudes are using a stock fan. I figured if it was good enough for them I’ll switch… and I’ve never had to think about the fans again. Good temps on the track now too.
  10. I think another challenge will be trying torque the main nut, i saw someone use a open spanner on the nut, then modify an old drive shaft yoke to use a torque wrench on... might need to look for something that will fit over the splines.. or sacrifice a socket and extend it.
  11. My parts list so far is: BK104WS (maybe without the syncros? There does not appear to be any wear on any of them no missing teeth) `32354-E9803` - Left hand thread main nut (Transmission Parts Distributors `303795L` Might be NLA from TPD emailed them), I think this can be found online from $$Nissan$$ `32236-e9500` - Counter shaft nut (Transmission Parts Distributors `303796`) Omega 71411 - Tail shaft bushing ( $27 shipping on a $17 bush ) Need to confirm both: reverse idler gear, need to confirm part number (32282)? from this diagram I'm looking at... https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-transmission-reverse-idler-gear-21t-fits-nissan-81-04-nis-10a/ reverse counter gear (32220)? https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h-transmission-counter-shaft-reverse-gear-fits-81-nissan-cars-trucks-nis-46/ @Dave WM @Captain Obvious I'll keep that in mind when I get the gearbox assembled back. Pinging the gearbox wizard @EuroDat 🧙‍♂️ Alright so here is the weird part... with the gearbox in the vise, when I give it a spin there is like maybe one or two spots where I can feel a bit of resistance, from a visual inspection the bearings look normal. Because only the bearings within the adapter plate are holding the shafts together I think that there can be play in the system, I can move the main/counter shafts left and right and watch them kinda deflect around. Also wierd, the main nut that is in the photo is loose, its staked down as you can see, but i can move it around. I think this is supposed to be torqued down to 101-123 ft-lbs per the FSM. Nothing is screaming at me, "I am the source of the whirring/grinding noise" that I was hearing with the clutch pedal depressed.
  12. Hello new guy from Utah. Welcome to the party.
  13. heyitsrama


    It’s for the HVAC controls (or the radio under the HVAC controls)
  14. I recall seeing them on ebay for like $60+ a couple months back. I don't think Nissan (or Niles Electronics company) produces any of these parts anymore. $25 is "expensive" but they are probably made as small batches now. 🤷‍♂️
  15. @Dave WM it’s a custom one that @Captain Obvious turned for me. A little larger than OEM. I have an OEM wood one as well, should I switch back?
  16. I failed to take this advise last time and now I'm doing all this work over again... Thanks for the part number to reference @EuroDat This bushing certainly looks beat up, I'll order a replacement. I got the gearbox on a vise this morning, whats weird is that the bearings visually look (and from spinning the input shaft) fine, i don't notice much play in any of the bearings, all the retainers are still present between the ball bearings. Before I pulled the gearbox out, the same shifter rattle was getting louder in 3rd gear... I noticed one of the nuts was loose on the backside (still staked down though).
  17. Rota TBT also look pretty good. Not sure if they make them in 16" though, seems like tire selection in the last couple of months has been more limited for the 15" wheels.
  18. Another year and the Z is on stands with the gearbox out... The car drove good for a while, then recently started to make noises when the car was idling in neutral (and in gear, with little load), depressing the clutch caused it to go away. I looked around and it seems like the counter-shaft bearing is the common culprit of this issue. I was able to remove the snap ring off the input shaft but am not able to get the bellhousing separated, is there a trick to this? I'm reluctant to beat on the casing too hard, i dont want to break anything. There is a ring that goes around the OD of the bearing that can be seen in the second image, is this to be removed as well?
  19. A photo of the gap would be helpful. Yeah you can use a voltmeter on wire that goes to the stator, yellow wire IIRC.
  20. Not to hijack the thread but I also had a shifter rattle (that never really left)... See thread Last week I noticed that the gearbox makes clicking sounds (like a bad bearing) when the clutch is not depressed, when the clutch is depressed the noise goes away. I think I need to pull the gearbox apart for a rebuild... In your video I a can hear the vibration through your hand, it reminds me of what mine was doing before the clicking started.
  21. Check out this book it has some interesting insights. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275245952328?epid=102900406&hash=item4015efed48:g:EKkAAOSwxidiRwqX
  22. Rabbit, its easier to remove both the tacho and the speedo, install the dash, then fish the speedo cable into place. Taking the wheel out really helps too. Chances are you a binding up on something. Looks like your having some fun! 🙂
  23. I’ve been using a 3core aluminum “champion” radiator from eBay. It works well, I don’t use a shroud (because I don’t have one), and am using a mechanical fan. I’m in the SF Bay Area, it’s never really too hot out here, however the car does see “track days” and has not had any overheating issues. I don’t recall any issues with mounting the radiator.
  24. I was chasing a stupid shimmy like this a couple months back, IIRC the lug studs on my drivers side sat too far out and were not engaging properly. Pics in this thread:
  25. Peep this thread If i recall correctly the issue with running the rear spoilers without one in the front, is that it produces lift in the front by squatting the rear down, which makes the front feel feel even more ambiguous at highway speeds. The Xenon type 1 should produces even more downforce than the BRE splitter, so you should be good pairing either one with the BRE rear spoiler. BRE sells two of the splitters, one is their `original` formula and the other is an `improved` variation, I ordered the `improved one`, drilled the holes in my hatch, and did not like how it looked, it was too large. I think the original would have been a better choice. Take @26th-Z's advice, the build quality from bre2.net was very nice, might go with the carbon fiber one next time I order.
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