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Everything posted by heyitsrama

  1. Alright about to button up the gearbox and just want to verify the endplay of the front counter bearing. I've been having a difficult time getting the measurement "A" with my micrometer, it's all over the place. I opted to use plastigage as @EuroDat has suggested. I found Yellow Clevite brand plastigage (MPY-1) 0.23mm-0.51mm... I torqued down the front cover + gasket + plastigage and was not able to get an accurate reading on the plastigage, opted to add the shim. Front cover + gasket + shim (0.4mm original) + plastigage got me a ~0.37mm gap between the bearing and the inside of the front cover. (this was the squish of the plastigage) I measured the depth from the face of the front cover to where the bearing should sit at ~3.38-3.4mm I'm going to make a wild guess that the 0.75mm (uncompressed) gasket will squish down into 0.4mm... If i subtract the depth that I measured by the squish of the gage... I get (3.38-3.4mm - 0.37mm = ~3.01-3.03mm) Which means I should be running between a 0.4mm - 0.5mm shim.... I think that seems pretty reasonable... @Patcon @EuroDat can i get a sanity check on this? 🤔
  2. @Patcon have you used a punch on the end of the counter shaft to make sure it’s all the way back? I gotta do this tomorrow, waiting on plastigauge.
  3. I wonder what kind of valve seats it runs, steel?
  4. Not a brake expert by any means, but Power Brake Exchange out of San Jose CA does a really nice rebuild on the stock booster. What's the advantage of a Tandem booster, more pressure through the line on a stock master cylinder? You say that your proportioning valve is running at its limit, so you're not really getting any adjustability out of it... I've read that when upgrading to a toyota caliper you should also change from the 7/8 to a larger master cylinder to make up for the volume difference, do the willwoods also need more pressure/volume? https://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/BoosterBrakePressureChart.pdf How did the brakes feel? Where was the engagement point?
  5. I've been stumped on the front counter shaft, it seems like the value changes based on where i measure the bearing to the faceplate, as if its not sitting flat in the housing... It might be how I am using the end of the digital caliper to take the measurement, there could be variable in where I am holding it. If you are looking for a way to torque down the main nut, i used an autozone inner tie rod tool rental. It worked like a charm, after that you should be ready to measure the gear end play.
  6. I've been able to talk to Healey and Max from ZCarDepot, they were pretty helpful. It was a couple years ago, not sure if they still work there.
  7. @Patcon Which internal clearance are you referencing? Here are a couple of them: 1. baulk ring to glear clearance ( page - MT-11) 2. gear end play (page - MT-11) 3. front counter shaft bearing (page MT-7) 280zx-manualtransmission.pdf
  8. I’d say from 30-45ft lbs. make sure you orient them to the correct side when you go to install it. the blasting looks great, zinc plate?
  9. What gear ratio did you end up with? OSG diff? Where are the pics?! 😇
  10. That's pretty cool, I like the EX-cab. How does it run?
  11. So I assembled the front/tail housing over the assembly (with sealant) and started researching how to check the clearance between the front counter bearing and the housing. Its hard for me to get a precise measurement on the bearing, When I measure the top (between the front mainshaft bearing) its 3.20-3.7mm depending on the spot I measure it, on other areas its between 3.12-3.2mm... I might be able to use the old shim (0.4mm) but I might have messed up.... I noticed this post by @Dave WM I failed to consider the dimples on the thrust washer when i assembled the 1/2 gears, so its a 50% chance that I assembled it correctly... I don't like it. I'm probably going to pull it apart again to double check the orientation, I assume these dimples are to allow oiling on the bearing, and I'd rather do it now then again.... Is disassembly a destructive operation on the bearings? I read that you don't want to create a load on the outer race of the bearings. The disassembly process seems is stressing the bearings (esp when you have to beat the mainshaft/counter shafts out...) I don't mind doing the work over again, its probably going to go way faster this time.
  12. I rebuilt mine at home, I think I got a rebuild seal kit from rockauto. Works great… Clean up the calipers with purple power, throw on some paint if you want. Man I wish I had a media blaster at home. 😞 Power Brake exchange out of San Jose might be able to rebuild it, they rebuilt my brake booster, great service.
  13. Ohh I just did this, I would use Eurodats part list for OEM part numbers, or on the right side it has the bearing number (e.g. 6305 c3) and order high quality bearings from an online distributor. I bought a bk104 bearing from Transmission Parts Distributors it had one wrong size bearing, it gave me a larger bearing for the fs5w71c. All of the bearings in this kit were from Nachi, they were very smooth.
  14. I was at my desk this morning, and it looks like the older 1980 gearboxes have a tighter tolerance than the “close ratio” 81-83 boxes. I’m not sure what gearbox this is anymore, it had a RHD main shaft, but a CR tail housing…. It’s a mix. I think I’m happy with the end play at the moment, everything seems to be in “spec” @Dave WM thanks for your YouTube videos BTW, I’ve been using them as a reference. @EuroDat I’ve been really happy with the MT-90, I’m got some fresh stuff for this rebuild. But to be honest the old stuff is so clean I’ll probably use it in my beater. On a side note, I thought about safety wiring these roll pins, to avoid any “lost shifters” at the track. I don’t know how I feel about the “looseness” of the wire, and it wearing down the aluminum shifter forks…. Am I just thinking too much about it? I’m not 100% on the shifter fork orientation for 1/2 gear. I saw an old photo that @Patcon posted and I think it’s right… no image in my phone or in the manual… It looks pretty good, the housings are washed up. Hopefully I can get it buttoned up tonight, and installed tomorrow after work.
  15. @EuroDat I torqued the main nut to 110ft-lbs the clearance is around 0.25mm on the 5th gear. That’s 0.05 tighter than OEM spec.
  16. I was on my thinking throne earlier today and remembered this tool from Autozone to change out tie rods. It has a die for both 1-1/2, and 38.4mm. Worked great, didn’t have to make anything custom.
  17. I reused the old "overdrive gear bushing" but used new needle bearings in between. If the old one was "too short" in length, it could cause this issue right?
  18. @Dave [email protected] I'm most done with the rebuild, I'm trying to measure the endplay 5th gear after torquing the mainshaft nut (RHT). The OEM manual specifies the endplay at 0.30-0.35mm. It seems like I can only achieve this amount of end play if I "loosely" tighten the nut to the shaft. If I actually attempt to tighten down the nut (no torque wrench at the moment, just by feel) the end play goes super tight and out of spec.... Any insight? Shoot for 110ft-lbs, and call it a day regardless of the endplay?
  19. I think it’s gonna be difficult to find these parts of the car. your best bet might be to find a wrecking yard, or someone who is parting out a car and cut the cowl out. I think most people end up rebuilding them by hand when doing restorations…
  20. https://www.allstategear.com/FS5W71-Extension-Housing-Bushing-p/nis-62.htm https://sales.omegamachine.com/Nissan_FS5W71C_Extension_Housing_Bushing_p/71411.htm I had to order one for my gearbox rebuild, the shipping is $25 bucks so get that wallet out.
  21. I welded another pipe to the top of the gland nut, then used a pipe wrench on the welded pipe, the heat from welding helped. The gland nut does not have much surface area to put the torque down... New struts should have new gland nuts.
  22. I've had good results with https://www.amazon.com/TriNova-Plastic-Trim-Restorer-Motorcycles/dp/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=sr_1_12?crid=U5ZAYVORXUE7&keywords=black+trim+restorer&qid=1656873126&sprefix=black+trim+restore%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-12 It lasts a couple months in the California sun on our Honda CRV trim, but eventually it does "dry up" again. If you are garaging the car it will probably last a while.
  23. Apologies for the misleading title. I did not fully look into the ad, I saw scarab in the text, and figured I’ll post it in case someone had a need for it.
  24. https://santabarbara.craigslist.org/pts/d/santa-barbara-1974-datsun-260z-parts-car/7500420356.html Looks like a project, but decent price.
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