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Everything posted by heyitsrama

  1. “If the crankshaft and flywheel were” I just installed the fidanza flywheel to my “used” motor, I did not balance them (at all neither separately or as a unit) I think it would be BEST to balance them as a unit. I wonder what process a machine shop performs todo this, do they balance them separately then assemble them together and balance them again?
  2. Take some measurements I have a stock one in my garage we can compare.
  3. I think i have a bill of sale for my 260z it was $500 if that helps your case.
  4. I think this is the stuff you're looking for http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a09/34-1015 I like the seals on the 74-78 bodies, they are longer and appear to seal better. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a09/34-1016-1 I've only used the latter ones, can anyone with experience with both chime in?
  5. L-series motors are a great motor to learn how to rebuild, they are stout, parts are relatively easy to figure out, most of the hard stuff is already figured out. For $6500 you should probably find a new shop. You can probably do a stock rebuild for sub-$1k if you DIY. If you choose to go down that route, perform a leakdown test (or compression if you cant get access to a leakdown) and take notes of what the values are, it will give you insight to engine wear.
  6. I feel like there should be cover for the blinker rod. Some type of rubber accordion like the clutch boot. I had a high beam switch that was all jacked up from UV exposure, picked up a spare column that came with semi new combination switches, id like to keep them in better condition.... Here is a picture of a replica 250 GTO that some dude was building.
  7. @RabbitZ it if makes you feel better I sold some bitcoin off back in the day to buy a cracked n42 cylinder head from some a-hole on craigslist. Car drives pretty good though.... > `Caveat emptor! I ran into these purchases without knowing. Shame on me. ` It's a learning experience, I've done it too, that's why i have 4 differentials around the house for some reason.... About the AC, I think Freeze 12 is supposed to be backwards compatible with R12, so the fittings should not change. There are other parts of the system that would have to be changed out (evap?, drier). It might be worth talking it over with a local classic car shop once you get the car and are able to drive it around.
  8. rama says... its a cardinal sin dont do it.
  9. already have dished pistons why not slap a little baby turbo in it?
  10. The links can be seen in the lower left corner of the screen, I'm using Firefox with an ad-blocker. https://github.com/gorhill/uBlock
  11. @z8987 they should not be going to Walmart, they work correctly on my machine.... Do you have any web browser plugins enabled? Maybe we should ping @Mike to make sure its not a problem with the site. For the Tie Rods I used `Moog` on the outters and `Rare Parts` for the inners. There is a gotcha here make sure the thread direction for the inner and outer match, it used to be that we could only find one thread direction for the inner, and we had to replace both tie rods sets to match. It seems like only recently parts suppliers have come out with a left/right hand thread so we can keep it how the cars came OEM. Read about it, For balljoints I used https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/datsun-240z-260z-280z-sankei-555-ball-joint-40160-a8625/ they are very high quality, however I think Moog would be acceptable for this part as well. The ball joints rusted after I installed them, maybe hit them with some clear coat spray paint before you install them.
  12. @z8987 I feel like you could piece together those parts for a much cheaper rate. It looks like that "set" is just a mix of aftermarket rubber bushings, and the ones that are NLA (like the mustache bar bushings) are sources from energy suspension. Some of us dont swap the OEM mustache bar bushings because the OEM ones are hard to find, others don't mind any potential harshness added by poly. You should look through some old threads though, your 1970 chassis might have the miss-aligned differential setup, this makes the half-shafts have an angle to them rather than siting orthogonal to the rear hubs, I don't think this changes any of the bushings though. Here is a car parts diagram for the Z's it has the OEM part number as well. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 I usually order my OEM Nissan stuff through https://www.courtesyparts.com/ If you're cool with the price on that kit, it looks complete to me. What about ball joins and tie rods? you planning to do those too? Are there other rubber grommets that are shot and need to be replaced?
  13. @siteunseen did you keep that btc? It might be worth quite a lot.
  14. Wont hurt to check the flatness of the manifold while its off.
  15. Granny if you can, take lots of photos. Are you thinking about the same color? Or gonna change it up?
  16. @siteunseen I’ll trade you cars if you like patina. 😇
  17. Tuners probably have a tail pipe o2 sensor that they use while tuning, and and then they can feel out how the car is reacting while test driving. But having a number there really takes all the guess work out of how the engine is burning while you drive. When i got mine it was one of those "why the **** did it not do this sooner". Maybe the shop can install one for you if you don't have a welder.
  18. This guy seems to do a lot of work in the LA area. https://www.instagram.com/kyushahousetaka/ I've never used his services before, I've only seen his work on social media. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor? It's a pretty useful tool. AEM makes a nice one. If you want to read about the webers you have. http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html
  19. Bob, I would inquire with a local driveline shop that does half shaft swaps, they have access to high quality joints and the different shim thickness that are needed to ensure that the shafts stay balanced. I only recommend this because I ruined the balance on my last set (there is a thread about that somewhere), however there are many people here that have replaced the joints themselves and never had an issue. I assume your half shafts have 4 bolts that connect to the back of the rear hub and 4 that connect to a companion shaft that goes into the differential. There are well documented CV swaps that you can do it's probably better to seek out those threads and see the experience of others, searching this website, zhome, and HybridZ would be a good place to start. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/rearend.html https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ Or search with your wallet https://www.zcarblog.com/2018/06/08/performance/parts-z-car-garage-cv-axles.html $1600 What kind of Z do you have? CVs be smoother if you have a early setup with the diffs that are close to the front of the car.
  20. Enkei makes nice wheels, but look at craiglist 280zx turbo swatz wheels can be had for a good price, they are a 15" wheel so you have some nice tire options. 16" give better fitment imo.
  21. I really like the OEM blue color the block, that with new brass freeze plugs make me happy.... that being said I personally used black, I was (am?) a poor college kid, and the $7 rattle can cant be beat. http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Should have the blue stuff. I wonder if the blue stuff smells better......
  22. Yeah T3 has 20% off this week, debating if i should push that `add to cart button` or try to DIY them. "DIY SUSPENSION, aka i hope that weld penetrated all the way"
  23. Mine has the potentiometer that adjust the level of assist you get, usually i just spin it to the lowest setting that does not turn the motor off. I was test driving it around last night and felt that when exiting left turns it does not center at all, but when exiting right turns it does somewhat center itself. I think an alignment will help out, but to adjust things like caster I'd need to have adjustable TC rods.... (does that increase road harshness? All the adjustable ones seem to remove the rubber bushings and put rod ends in its place.) I don't want to pay for an alignment if i need to also add adjustable TC arms then realign it.
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