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Wet sanded all morning and then coated with green sealer. In booth and base coat applied. Leaving to dry over the weekend and then hit it with clear coat on Monday.

This is a highly recommended transmission oil, perhaps the same one referred to by @EuroDat

Then bent shifter route is actually pretty simple. That would do it for you. You just need a torch, or take it to a shop and have it done. Here's an example.

Here's another before and after, all in body color. I prepped and finished this area before my car went off to the painter.

If you going to replace the pump be advised that the aftermarkets don't seem to last . The last one I bought was $95, lasted 7 months, and was only used for about 20 starts. The first after market pump only lasted one year. The OEM pump may be costly but it lasts. Also, the after markets don't fit like the OEM and you have to make several modifications. Yes, 1/2 inch hose from tank to pump , but make sure you use FI hose out of the pump to the fuel damper like Zed said.

What if these experimental drugs take out our top leaders as they get treatment? Bueller.

Eleven important people got COVID at the same time, maybe from the same event, and only one is in the hospital and has already received two experimental drugs. Not sure what to make of that. Bueller...Bueller...Bueller... Just joking, but the theory is already floating around (it actually came across my mind before I saw the mainstream news). Nobody knows what's really happening.

Since the lowly Broncos play the Patsies next week, I'm pretty sure they view this as a helpful event.

Thanks pogden, detailed! And everyone else. I should make a time lapse video of install. Waiting for a couple parts, and maybe get my 16 year old grandson over to help. But I'll probably keep him away from the hoist lowering valve as engine is dangling over the car.

Karma, poetic justice, take your pick.

You are right Zed, I apologize for my impetuous comment.

That is what I call a series 1 style console. If you add a 5 speed you will have to make some changes to the metal in the trans tunnel and on the front edge of the shifter hole where the boot attaches the the console. Some people also add new bends to the shift lever. There a few threads here with photos of different ways to accomplish it.

No problems.......still perfect.....go for it!

As I seem to be the "cause" of "in the style of", here is my Kobe Seiko Z432 wheel (on the left) and one of my M-speed Z432 "style" wheels; At a quick glance, let's start with the hub, the end hole is different shape, the M-speed is more tappered to the base of the wheel, and a wider circumferance at the bottom. The "spokes" radiating from the hub are a different shape, and are deeper set into the wheel on the Kobe one and thus taller. The four spaces on the outer are different, one longer and squatter (Kobe) while the M-speed is not as sqat and taller. And from therethe outer "spokes" are a slightly different shape too.There are probably others, but you get the drift. The Kobe is thicker in material, and is much more curved over all its features, while the M-speed is much more "machined" with more defined edges. None of the differences mentioned above can happen if you cast/make a buck from an original Kobe wheel. Hence why I say the M-speed is in the style of. Like Gav is doing, and the replicas made here in the UK (you just see the edge of a 15" "works replica wheel [top right] ) all stemmed from have an original Kobe wheel used as a buck or scanned. So all the design follows into the replica.

I’ve done it both ways a few times now, but believe putting the engine and transmission in as unit is easiest. I can imagine that just a small difference in the geometry of one hoist/leveler setup vs. another could make an annoyingly big difference, but here’s what worked well for me: Jack up the rear of the car and set it on jack stands (lowest level, about 12in from the floor to the top of the stand. Make sure you leave enough room in front of the Z for the full length of the engine+transmission hanging from the hoist. Aside: My son and I (mostly my son) devised this approach to minimize the vertical clearance needed (my garage ceiling is 10ft) while leaving room under the car to finagle the transmission crossmember into place. It works perfectly. Put some folded towels over the core support and draped in front of the firewall from the cowl. Lubricate the screw threads on your engine leveler. Raise the engine+trans until the transmission clears the core support, then wheel it over the engine bay, centering it right-left as best you can. Using your leveler start tilting the whole thing back (transmission down) and raising the whole thing up so that the oil pan clears the core support. Between you and your helper, one keeps a hand on the tail of the transmission and steers the whole thing, the other guy manages the hoist (up/down, forward/back, tilt/level). Hoist man should be confident in his ability to lower the hoist at a slow rate and stop its decent - practice before this point can’t hurt. As the oil pan crosses the core support you will probably approach the backward-tilting limit of your hoist. As you lower it into the bay, start tilting it forward (transmission). Continue lowering, pushing, and tilting until the the engine is almost resting on the drivers side mount (it’s higher than the other one). Make sue the fore/aft tilt looks good compared to the engine brackets and mounts. At this point, it may be useful to loosen the engine brackets bit to make threading the bolts into the engine mounts easier. Put the bolts on the driver side first, then lower the engine a bit more so you can get the bolts on the passenger side. Getting all four transmission mount bolts threaded can be one of the most fiddly, annoying, swear-inducing things you can do on a Z (at least, on mine), but you WILL get them. Having your helper push tail piece of the transmission forward/back, in/out, up/down from under the Z can help. Once the front engine mount bolts are finger-tight, the transmission crossmember can be installed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Depending on the build date of the 71, it might have the A style transmission and center console. The 73 will have the B transmission and console. You may need to alter the shifter / shifter hole in the tunnel to make that work. The transmission mount will be different between A and B. The carb assy for sure as Site says above.

Thanks Cliff! I've R&R'd dozens of Z powertrains and I almost always keep them together. I hate trying to line up the trans under the car. I'd much rather do it while the engine is hanging from a hoist. As for hoists, if you have a folding hoist, you might have to pull the front bumper to get enough reach to be centered on the engine. I had to buy a fixed leg hoist to do mine with the bumper in place. You can get the engine out, but lining it up during install is almost impossible if the reach is too short. The first dozen or so engine pulls were done with a Farmall Cub tractor with a custom boom hoist. It was 100 times easier than any engine hoist I've ever used. I could pull an engine in a gravel driveway as easy as in a shop. I'll have to see if I can find an old picture of that setup. I miss that tractor!

Too serious. Had a joke here. Wait it out.

I used these folks. They were easy to work with. You can send them your unit to rebuild or buy theirs and send in a your core. They will also powder coat the booster if you like. Mine came back with a nice primer coat ready for paint. Very reasonable. Little over $100 a few months ago. North Power Brake Exchange, Inc. - San Jose, Ca. Phone: (408) 292-1305 Fax: (408) 294-6817 South Power Brake Exchange, Inc. - Bell Gardens, Ca. Phone: (562) 806-6661 Fax: (562) 806-3570

Crazy times man, crazy times. I hope we all make it through and get back to at least some form of sustainable madness. More and more of the people in the crowds at the events and parties are testing positive. Russia doesn't need any help at all...

You can also raise the back end of the car, that will make the angle of the engine/trans less and therefore easier.

The bipod, use the bipod. That weird looking knobby thing in the right hand corner. For sharing. There's a lot of pages in that thread. Thanks for the compliment too, I do try.

I can chime in here. I do mine by myself too and Zed Head is, as always, 100%. Also mark around you hood hinges before removal and it'll go back just fine, no alignment problems. If you'll read this one page of my build thread you can see a great photo and advice from @Jeff G 78 and then my OCD rambling but it worked perfect at the end of the day. EDIT: after reading that again myself there's a whole slew of great advice from the guys on this forum. Click on the "April 7, 2016" reply. Take your time and all possible precautions. Good luck with the install.

Admitting a screw- up is a nice way to help someone else avoid it. All of us have brain farts on occasion.

The sad reality is that western businesses dove head first into China since the 90's and were allowed to close down shop in the west now the problem is coming to a head.... their IP is now in the hands of the corrupt Chinese Govt (Gangsters) and so are their manufacturing factories. The only quick way out is for "regime change" in China.... they need a revolution to free the slaves/people from the evil Communist Party. When we buy Mainland Chinese products we support this evil modern-slavery situation.

Just trying to understand what is going on here... Already 70 posts on that topic?! Accusations, he says she says, I got a bigger pecker than yours, my father is stronger than yours, 3rd grade schoolyard BS. If anyone wants to be an activist, pick a real fight, plenty to choose from In the real world nowadays... The most important question is; What could be the end result of that back and forth endless non sens...? NOTHING but a big waste of time, that’s what is going to come out of it! No moderator on this forum? If you want the damn wheels buy them, if you don't want them for whatever reasons or beliefs then just dont! That is the most important influence anyone could have on it! My 2 cents... Gentlemen please move on!

I enquired about this some months back. M-Speed Japan's representative told me that they had made a legal contract with the Chinese casting foundry when they had engaged them to manufacture their wheels for them, and that the Chinese factory had breached this contract by selling these wheels to third parties. M-Speed Japan were quite clear that they do not authorise these parallel - effectively 'back door' - sales, and that the Chinese factory are in breach of contract.

LOL... I dislike that word too... confuses people on one's relationship these days. More importantly... Great grass-roots effort! Luv it!!!!!!!!!!!!

Happy to add my 2 cents, especially since I've been asked to join in. I read this thread last night and was trying to make sense of it. @Sean Dezart - You messaged me about posting these wheels on my own forum (www.viczcar.com). But before I gave you the go ahead, I wanted to know more about these wheels and the product before giving you the go ahead for several reasons. I recall seeing someone in Eastern Europe offering the M-speed style wheels for literally half the price of what M-speed were charging elsewhere. Naturally this seemed too good to be true. Subsequently there was discussion around the person offering these wheels and how they were so cheap? From what I could ascertain before the listings were removed from Marketplace is that they were squirrelled out of the backdoor of the same factory M-speed had commissioned to cast them in China. Bypassing M-speed who had done all the ground work in bringing them to market. You started offering the style of wheels (The Kobe Seiko Rally Mags (wide) and 432 spec (narrow)) a few weeks later. I asked you if you had gone to the effort of reproducing the wheels or if they were M-speed and you were distributing for them, but I didn't get a clear answer. This photo of the "Made in" and the rest appears ground off.. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64479-parts-for-sale-4x-reproduction-nissan-fairlady-z432-wheels-in-aluminum/?do=findComment&comment=606678 To me it looks like you're trying to obfuscate where they have come from or who made them for that matter, but why do that? Anyway, why does it matter where they came from or where they are made? Simple, M-speed spent a lot of money, time and R&D to bring these wheels to market, so whatever price they charge is their business and they should be able to charge whatever price they want. The market will tell them if it's too expensive or not. If you were to commission the same wheels, do the same R&D and decide to offer them at half the price of M-speed, that would be fair. Nobody would be complaining. But what you're doing is taking the hard work and capital that M-speed has kicked into this project and undercut them, but this also creates another downstream problem. Determining which wheels are from M-speed and which ones are posing as M-Speed. It may also deter companies like M-speed from doing similar projects in future as a result and as a community we all lose out when that happens. Q. How do you know the ones sold to you direct from the factory are of the same quality as the ones M-speed is selling? Has it not occurred to you that M-speed may have many batches of wheels sent to them for testing before selling them to the wider market and a bunch of those wheels may be discarded after QC because of the Chinese attitude of "Cha Bu Duo"? Or that the wheels commissioned by M-speed must be done to a higher standard and strength and materials (alloys used must be higher quality), and since they are charing M-speed more for this standard that's fine, but if they are selling them out the back door or via Alibaba marketplace then just Cha Bu Duo will do? Example of wheel testing in Japan on Weds Wheels https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJeFB6SRslk This is why I have concerns about the wheels myself, since I'm not sure what testing has been done and if you are checking any of these wheels yourself for quality and standards. Let's face it the people who want these wheels are probably looking to mount them on cars they have invested a lot of money into and the last thing they want when driving at 100km/h and hitting a pot hole is to have a wheel crack in half on them and cause them to crash or injure themselves. I'm also going through the process of potentially making Kobe Seiko wheels (yes I will call them replicas) but in 15x8 +0 spec. As you know I have 3 'original' Kobe Seiko magnesium wheels in my possession. 1x wide and 2x narrow. We have had the wide version scanned already, but scanning was simple. The next step was to convert that rough scan into a more 'solid' CAD version and tidy up the roughness of the scan itself. Then extrapolate the spokes to make it 15" and widen it to 8". You can see this in the images here. My partner and I (in this venture) have already invested quite a bit of money to get the project to this stage. The next stages will include what's known as FEA (Finite Element Analysis) which involves VSB14 and the standards for the wheels are to be made to comply with: AS 1638-1991 and ISO 3006:2015 (or a more updated version if there is 1). I believe this will be equivalent to the Japanese industry certification that Alan was referring to, but in Australia. Once we get through all of that, it will be onto sourcing high grade alloy material and working with a local foundry to start casting wheels. We still don't know what it will cost to turn out the first wheel, but I'm guessing it won't be cheap. In part because we are not going to go the China route like everyone else. I believe this thread is a good reason why, but also we will have more control over quality and quantity produced. But also we will be employing locals and local industry keeping skills local. I actually think you'd be better off becoming an M-speed distributor rather than trying to undercut them. This is because anyone who has an interest in these wheels is likely to also have an interest in quality items being fitted to their car and not likely wanting to risk it by fitting Cha Bu Duo spec wheels to their car. If you were to contact the local foundry in Australia that helps me produce my own wheels looking to buy direct from them, then I'd want them to tell you to go away as Alan mentioned. Since they are contracted to produce a wheel where I own the casting mould or buck and have invested in that capital / tooling to produce them. The foundry was paid to make the wheel for myself (and partner) not so they can take that design / pattern and go make 1000s of them to sell on eBay etc..

Everyone - but everyone! - knows that they are made in China! When M-Speed first put them on the market in Japan there was much discussion about the price points only being possible because they were made in China. I've even heard people in Japan refer to them as "the Chinese ones". It is in no way a secret. You seem to be way out of your depth here. You don't appear to have any concept of the Japanese costings, let alone the politics involved in all of this. And I'm going to point - once again - at your bizarre Straw Man style technique of putting words in someone else's mouth and then refuting them, as though it's a real thing. It isn't.

I do nothing of a commercial nature. When I see needs, I attempt to help. I have a good plater here and built a good relationship. Send me a PM and we can see if I can help with your project.

I'm going to differ from the first two suggestions...but on a technicality. If the undercoated in truely uncracked, not loose etc, then it may not have to come off. That is the key though, is it really in good shape. The only way to tell is by scraping. But when you run across some that doesn't want to come off, well them I usually leave it. I do restoration work. It depends on your goal, but if a daily driver is the goal, then I find it acceptable. However, I reiterate, if the undercoating is really in good shape. Not loose, slit, cracked etc.

Yeah "Cha Bu Duo" basically. 😄 I once bought a Guitar second hand off a so-called collector... It appeared genuine in every sense of the word. I still have the photos of it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ZSeZFcdnZPfjh7M7 Notice how it has a serial number, Epiphone Branding, and it even came with a little Epiphone Brochure. For all intents and purposes it looks the same, certainly in photos it still looks impressive. I was naive and it was my first electric guitar (still a learner at the time and still am really), but not knowing much about setting up the action or how good pickups should sound I tested it and it seemed ok (the amp was small and not great) so it was hard to really know if it was "kosher" or not. Anyway after a while I was a bit frustrated with it and took it to my guitar teacher who said the 'action' on it (usually defined by how the strings sit against the fretboard was all off) and it wasn't nice to play. He suggested I take it to get set up right. I take it to a specialist to have to re-configured. He calls me and say "where did you get this guitar from?" I said I bought it off a guy on the Internet second hand - he said he was a collector. He goes on to explain the guitar is not very good and there isn't much that can be done to fix it. He also said it looks like it's made of chipboard type wood.. as oppose to Rosewood. Also the pickups and pots were of interior quality. Sure enough if you look at the photos you can see the Chipboard under the pickups. So I sent photos to Epiphone / Gibson and they confirmed it was indeed a fake. Turns out a lot of places in China that make the official good version for some big American brands of guitar, also as mentioned sometimes have another factory in parallel churn out the "fakes" at a much lower standard but pass them off as legit. It's a huge mess for these companies who then have to try and stop the behavior. Of course the fella I bought the guitar off had no knowledge of the guitar being a fake and pretty much washed his hands of it. True or not, I was down 400 euros and ended up giving the guitar away.. Just my experience with such situations.