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Might be that the other part numbers will fit but there are minor differences. Who knows. Really though, a 280ZX gear reduction starter is the way to go. Smaller and less drain on the battery. https://proampusa.com/UnitSearch.aspx?A1=1982-Nissan-280Z @ 280ZX-2.8L-Starter

Can you tell which corner has the air in it? See bubbles come out of the tube? Hate to bring i up but you might have damaged the seal on that piston and it's sucking air. Just a big Maybe to check for. Big MAYBE, don't know, hope it's not, but it could be. Beside that you probably drew a lot of air in to that cylinder when the piston was unseated. Spend a lot of extra time purging that one. Tap on the lines, fittings, and cylinder to break any small bubbles free. The fronts are where a lot of air can hang out. Did you do any work up there? Bleed screws up... Brakes are the biggest pain on these cars, I think. Since you had the master cylinder off there could be air working its way through from there, through the NP valve, and the pressure imbalance warning switch, and the various junctions. Just a lot of little spots for a bubble to hang up. I put speed bleeders on the backs so that I could push a lot of fluid through quickly. Many people like the speed bleeders. They help.

I bought the oven cleaner and is like magic, as for the weld f its not going to affect anything i might just clean it and leave it.

After almost 2 years of slowly rebuilding the engine, I finally got my '70 240Z to start up today! This is the first time I've ever seen the car run, so I'd love some feedback from you all with more experience on how it sounds. The car starts up pretty easily, even with the choke completely disengaged. The RPM seems to drift all over the place though, so I had to keep messing with the fast idle screw to keep it around 2,000 (just above Tom Monroe's recommended 1,500 minimum). It sounds kind of rough to my ears, but again I've never heard the car run properly so I really have no idea. This was originally my (soon-to-be) father in law's car and he thought it sounded a little rough but not terrible. I messed with the timing a little bit and settled on ~15 degrees of advance, but the RPM is wandering around so much that it's hard to know if any adjustments are helping or hurting. I only got around 10 minutes of runtime today because I was running out of a gas can rather than the tank, and I emptied 2 gallons of gas in 10 minutes. I'm pretty sure all of that gas is just going back in the tank through the return line though, as there's no noticeable smoke from the exhaust. Questions: How's it sound? Any concerns from you all? Any concerns about the RPM wandering around, or is this normal for a newly rebuilt engine? I was running water from my garden hose through the open radiator. After my runs today, I just let it drain out and put on the cap and drain plug. Any issues with leaving the remnants of hose water in there? I'm planning on continuing my break-in next weekend, so I'd rather not fill it up with coolant just yet. I also don't want the thing to rust solid over the week. What are your favorite guides for setting timing? Should I try to set timing before or after synchronizing my carbs and getting the mixture set? Thanks everyone - you've all been a huge help so far! Videos: - Very first start! After a few unsuccesful cranks, I handed the keys to my father-in-law-to-be who started it up almost immediately. He claims the car remembers him. - Here's me starting it. I reved it to ~3,500RPM before I got ahold of myself and dropped it back down to 2,000 - Here's a quick walkaround of the car. I'm watching the RPM with my timing light, then bring it in closer to get some engine sound. I then walk around to the exhaust to capture that as well.

I bought this car for Mrs. Racer 1.0 back in 1992 for $2,000. When we divorced she said she didn't want it, and demanded I pay her for it. I pointed out the car was bought with money out of my pocket, and the title was in my name, and I would not be giving her anything for the car, and that was that. I drove the car off and on until 1998, parking it because the oil consumption was excessive, and at the time I was trying to defend a championship in my race Z. So the car sat in the back corner of the shop, collecting dust. Fast forward to this past August. I'm at work, and my manager calls me, says I have to go home. Contact tracing had resulting in me being identified as being at risk to Covid19. Not wanting to waste a two week paid "vacation", I decided to clean up the shop a bit and see how the old Z was doing. I charged the battery overnight, and the car reluctantly came to life, 22 year old gas and all. Being all original, and numbers matching, I won't be making any changes that cannot be returned to the as new configuration. But in the interim I plan to replace the tired engine with one of the many others I have lying about, and rebuild the original as time and money allow. The car as I bought it in 1992 (alongside my race car): Double Datsuns by Racer, on Flickr Brown Z Red Z by Racer, on Flickr And after sitting in the corner of the shop after 22 years, dust, dirt, overspray (I painted a tractor and even though I had a makeshift spray booth, overspray went everywhere) and spider poop. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Not easy to see through 22 years of dirt. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr I washed it. Notice the red haze of overspray. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr After the first pass around with rubbing compound and a buffer. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr And after about 20 passes around the car. I put some Panasport wheels on it that were on a 280Z parts car I had out back. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr And finally a coat of Zymol wax. Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Now for some mechanical work. I am going to change the car over to a manual tranny. These cars should never have had automatics. I also have new carpet, weatherstripping, and interior plastic panels to change out. Stay tuned. Racer

Yup, a 280ZX gear reduction starter is the way to go.

I guess I would get the carbs balanced first off then if it idles steady set the valves. Then do the carbs again and the timing.

I would advise not to put the foam back on the underside of the valance I am not sure why it was there from the factor other than to create rust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a diagram of the door showing the "bamper". Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Rod informed me that both doors sustained prior damages, with the driver side door pushed in so far that it bent "the bar". That would require removal of the skin to straighten it out properly. So we decided to replace the doors instead of repair. That would be easy enough on most 240z but it turns out the early cars had their "bamper" located in a more forward position than midway on the glass. I'm calling it a bamper because that is how it's referred to in the manual. Rod was able to source a set of doors (orange doors in pic) but those doors too had a lot of fillers. So we decided to grab the doors off of #1610 (blue car), hence you see the passenger doors go from silver to blue and the driver door is now free of fillers. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Why not straight like the S30? I have to say that I hate most news cars today, but this makes me want to go and drive one to see what its about.

I designed and made my own coil bracket based off of blakes. Here is the info.

I agree 100% The Z has to remain a stand alone in the Nissan stable. If there is one positive esthetically, the grill is better proportioned in the concept SUV due to its higher stance. Here's a review: https://www.hagerty.com/media/opinion/z-sus-is-just-alright-with-me/ The 240 had an attractive (although useless) bumper that occluded the view of the lower half of the grill. Here's hoping the 400 grill height can be reduced by a 1/3rd to approximate Ante's law of proportions. In the alternative, divide the grill horizontally with a band of chrome or brushed metal. Cheers, George

Pics of the underside or it didn't happen.

Cheers racer! I often look at how much work is ahead of me and feel a bit overwhelmed! Literally every part of the car needs to be renewed! But I am not in a rush and I want to do things properly. Yes I’m not too fussed about the panels I can get replacements for, like you say the roof and cowl/firewall is the major worry. I may outsource this work. thanks for the feedback on the vids. Plan to keep improving quality. cheers for the tips on the photos I’ll look into it. I was in love with 90’s Japanese sports cars as a teen, as I grew a bit older I developed a love for classic cars too, bit of an old soul ? so why not combine the two! 240z in my mind is the original Japanese sports car, was just very lucky to buy this car a decade ago for what now seems like a very cheap price. And as you say want to save this car for future generations to appreciate and enjoy. Cheers Ryan

I managed to pry the "shoe" far enough off the piston to be able to fiddle with the piston and get it to retract. Thanks guys. Next issue is that I cannot get the brakes bled properly. Squishy peddle that gets firm when you pump it. I bled in what I think is the proper order. Bench bleed the new master, then bleed left rear, right rear, right front, left front. I'm tired. I'll tackle it another day.

There was some discussion a while back on this forum about seat inserts like that and it was summized that in hotter climate areas, like Arizona, it was not uncommon for dealers to do the seat treatments like that to new cars. It seems that it was easier to sell a car that didn't fry a customers a ss with vinyl in the Summer months. It does look like cut pile carpeting though.?

Its most likely the N3130 'Close-Ratio Overdrive' or N3030 'Wide-Ratio Overdrive' version of the FS5C71B transmission, with flanged output. It required a flanged propshaft. Sold by Datsun Competition in the USA, but not a 'competition' part per-se as they were factory stock equipment in other, non-USA, markets.

At least it's not a shag carpet.

Yeah I'm almost glad to see people driving 50mph on the freeway in the far left lane again. Brakes on uphill.

@Racer X, regarding firewall replacement panels, there is a guy in the UK making them. He goes by Auto Panel Solution and can be found on FB. https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/ Here is the firewall he makes, lucky for @240ZBUILTBYME it's even for RHD

Looks like you have plenty to do Ryan. The rust will clearly be a challenge, but it isn't an impossible task. The rust on the firewall and roof will be the biggest challenge, as there isn't replacement panels available. Fabricating the needed parts will challenge your creative abilities for sure. I see you are taking a methodical approach, and planning things well. Your videos are nicely done too. For photos, you can create a Flickr account, upload you r images there, then post them anywhere using the hotlink feature. Free Flickr accounts are limited to 1,000 photos, the unlimited "Pro" account is around $60 US (cheap). A great way to host and share your pictures. I think it is awesome that there are younger guys like you taking an interest in the first gen Z car. You will ensure these cars will be around for many years to come. Looking forward to following your progress! Cheers, Racer

might want to remove the ID plate on the side and keep it in a safe place. Don't want to accidentally grind over it or paint strip the lettering. ?

I would expect way , more than $500 for metal repairs! and that's doing it all yourself. I also wouldn't make any panel that is commercially available! A stamped panel is harder and will make a better repair. Also if the metal work isn't done really well it really hurts the value of the car. Don't scrimp on this part!!

...trying so hard to hold it together here.... such optimism! I love it when people have plans to be done "ina few months" for "a few thousand dollars at most..." While I am 6 years and $45,000 into my $10,000 6 month restoration...! One can dream I suppose!! I wish the OP all the best and hope it works out for him.