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rcv

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About rcv

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Sherman Oaks, CA
  • Occupation
    CTO

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1970 Series 1 240Z

Social Sites

  • Website
    r-c-v.com

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-15257

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  1. My 11/70 with VIN HLS30-15257 has a P30 block (#020294) and a E31 head.
  2. Well I still haven’t gotten my tank back, but I ordered a set of Float Syncs from @Randalla and spent an hour or so getting a “static” float level. The float syncs are really nice and made it a snap to get the levels set. I used a small squirt bottle to pour fuel into the input line with a funnel, and then just rotated the float sync to drain it back out into my bottle to reset. Really interested to see how well the “static” float level corresponds to the levels when the engine is actually running.
  3. Hi Bill, sorry to dredge up an old thread, glad to hear things worked out for you. Do you have a link to that service manual you go the float level diagram from? I haven't seen that figure before in the FSM I've been referencing (http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/FSM L20aL24engine.pdf) so I'm curious to know where it's from.
  4. I pulled off my fuel tank today and dropped it off at a shop to get cleaned out and then have some Red Kote applied to the inside, and black paint applied to the outside. It should be done in a week or two. I'm also going to order some new stainless lines etc so I can actually do this thing right. Hopefully I'll be back to messing with the floats in a month. I also ordered some of that Hormel Dried Beef on Amazon for when I get back to calibrating the float levels. Any recipe recommendations @siteunseen or should I just feed it to the dog?
  5. Well if it’s not one thing it’s another. I got the floats looking ok-ish and reinstalled them in the car. Turned the key and nothing. I pulled the line from the bowl inlet and turned the key to make sure the pump was at least working, and got nothing out of the fuel line. So, it looks like my brand new mechanical pump is dead now. The bad news is that I disconnected the input line to the pump and sucked some fuel through my Mighty Vac and what came out looked like a nice aged scotch. I had drained and refilled the tank about two weeks ago, so this must mean that the inside is absolutely disgusting and some of that nastiness must have peeled off and caused an aneurysm in my pump. I was avoiding dropping the tank, but it looks like that was a bad move. Looks like I’ll be dropping the tank next weekend and getting it cleaned out. What a day.
  6. Hmm I’ve got a Nov ‘70
  7. Yup it’s gas. I tried my old floats/valves/lid combos from my original carbs and got the same basic results. I’m beginning to think maybe my adjustment factor is off? These are 4-screw carbs if that makes any difference.
  8. Speaking of math escaping us, I may have inhaled too much of these gasoline fumes. Does the diameter of my measuring vessel matter? My cup is around 80mm wide, but it shouldn’t matter as long as I’m filling slow and steady right? Archimedes is rolling in his grave right now. I’ve got my tab bent really damned low and I’ve finally gotten to my 18.5 mark, but the float is pretty much topped out against the lid. Doesn’t seem right at all, and worries me that any minor variation and I’ll start spewing gasoline out of my bowls.
  9. Well, no Hormel Dried Beef at the grocery store, but I did find a nice straight glass and a big flat trivet that can live in the garage. Just to be clear on the measurements, 23mm is from the roof of the bowl lid right? That lid is recessed by 3mm, plus I have a 1.5mm piece of plastic it’s sitting in, so I’ll need fuel at 23 - 3 - 1.5 = 18.5mm below the top of my glass right?
  10. Also here are some pictures of my float in case anything sticks out to anyone. This front float has definitely seen better days.
  11. I just adjusted both via the FSM method and now the car won’t start at all. I pulled the float lids off and both bowls are bone dry. 😐 I’m going to try the blow method next and see if that gets me anywhere better. @siteunseen I just read through your linked post, and I think I get it. You’re using an electric fuel pump to push fuel through the float while it sits on a glass. Then you just measure the fuel level in the glass when it stops, right? I’m I reading the FSM right when it says the fuel level should be 23mm from the roof of the lid? I don’t have an electric pump, but any reason it wouldn’t work if I pull off my mechanical pump and actuate it manually?
  12. Yup that’s today’s task. The FSM recommends turning the float and lid upside down on the work bench and just eyeballing when the “lever seat contacts the valve stem” and getting that to happen when the top of the float is 0.55” from the bowl lid. The video I linked above instead recommends blowing through the fuel inlet and setting the float so that airflow stops at 0.55”. Unfortunately there’s a lot of variability between these methods, and even the “blow” test differs quite a bit depending on whether I start with the float up or down. For example, measuring the current float height on my rear carb (after adjustment via FSM method) gives me: FSM Method: 0.552” Blow Method (while lowering float): 0.617” Blow Method (while raising float): 0.498”
  13. I’ll give Paltech a call early next week if I can’t get things solved by then. I checked his website and there’s no mention of what he uses, and I don’t think he sent me any literature along with the carbs. Here’s some pictures looking down one carb throat if it helps. A little hard to focus, but I can try to borrow a mirror if you think clearer shots would help
  14. I’ve got both float bowls opened up and at first glance it’s obvious they have very different fuel levels in them: Using my “blow on it until the valve cuts off” method I’m measuring the front level at 0.7” and the rear at 0.4” from the top of the float to the bottom of the bowl lid. This is consistent with the levels in the bowls at least, and I’m hoping this is a big part of my problem. It’s still very weird to me that the front carb wanted to go leaner too, but maybe it was sucking extra fuel through the balance tube? Can anyone confirm that my measurement method seems reasonable? If so I’ll get them adjusted and try to start her up again tomorrow morning
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