Jump to content

rcv

Members
  • Content Count

    137
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

26 Excellent

About rcv

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    Sherman Oaks, CA
  • Occupation
    CTO

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1970 Series 1 240Z

Social Sites

  • Website
    r-c-v.com

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-15257

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Nice, those mostly line up with the measurements in my image (repasted below for reference). The only one I can't really match up is the bottom-right in your image with the 46.84mm ear to TO measurement. Do you happen to know what vehicles each of these originally came out of? It would be helpful to label them if so. Also, one more measurement you could take would be from the top of the throwout bearing to the top of the collar. I'm pretty sure this is a functionally useless measurement, but it's what's provided in all of the other collar images I've seen (e.g. https://www.classiczcars.com
  2. Did you happen to measure any height difference between your old pressure plate and your new one? I had tried the same simple solution, but the old plate had the same issue as the new. I asked the PO but he didn't remember any clutch issues. The car hadn't been driven in about 15 years so he wasn't too sure though.
  3. @123ignitionusa I just stumbled on this old thread after making a dupe. I had some issues getting my tach to work in my 11/70 240Z but resolved it with the help of some friendly forum members. The solution is here - my beautiful drawing is public domain so feel free to reprint it 🙂 While I have your attention, it would be extremely cool if there was a library of user contributed centrifugal and MAP curves that beginners like me could reference - especially if they were listed along with engine specs (e.g. carbs, cam, exhaust setup etc). Also, the initial timing degrees.
  4. Wahoo it works! Thanks for the help @Firepower For anyone else who stumbles n this thread, here’s how I wired it up. I made a “Y” connector to connect the following wires: - Green/White - Red wire that goes to the distributor - Black/White wire that gets 12V when your key is switched to “on”. The other black/white wire (which does not read 12V when the key is in the “on” position) goes to the positive terminal of the coil.
  5. If you have an example of each collar on hand, then you should measure the distance from the leading edge of the TO bearing to the top of the ears. It’s the red dimension in my image, but I derived my numbers by counting pixels in the photos. If you can get the actual measurements with calipers and annotate them in a consolidated image, then you will be the only person in the known universe to have done so and you should make that image a sticky.
  6. I have all of the measurements for the various collars (using the important dimensions) in a handy diagram here:
  7. Thanks Richard - I believe I tried that, but had no luck. I'll give it a shot later and see if I can figure out what I screwed up. When you say you jumpered both wires, you mean the Black/White wire, and the Green/White wire right? Also, thanks for the "240Z 123 Ignition Tune+ Install" video you did you Youtube, it was my main reference when I installed mine and it was a huge help.
  8. @Sailor Bob what's the manufacture date of your car? I'm guessing this is an oddball early model problem.
  9. What's the latest on getting fuel pumps rebuilt anyway? I went through 3 mechanicals (the OEM and two cheap knockoffs) before I finally caved and installed a little K&N electric pump near the tank. I can hear the clicking sound of that electric pump in my dreams now so I really would like to go back to a mechanical unit at some point. Last I heard people were trying to figure out how to scavenge the one-way valves from some new units to put into the body of the old units to make some kind of best-of-both-worlds-frankensteins-pump. Anyway, let me know if you find a good source for reliab
  10. Sure thing, let me know how it works out. I'm still academically interested in what the root cause is here but so far my curiosity hasn't been as strong as my desire to drive my car.
  11. Yeah that's a good idea. You might need to put a very small resistor in parallel with the potentiometer, otherwise the current through the pot will be super low and subject to whatever the impedance is in just the wiring. The goal would be to make the current flowing through the pot+tach the same as it used to be, but to also get some extra juice by pulling in extra current through the low-ohm resistor that's in parallel. I'm not sure when I'll have time to source the parts and try this, but it sounds like good experiment.
  12. Yeah, I think that's my plan. I did some more searching, and came across this great diagram by @240260280z in this thread: I think that basically explains it - I removed my ballast resistor when I installed the new Bosch coil which I think was the wrong move. I'm guessing the tach is acting like a voltage divider along with the ballast resistor, and removing that resistor screws up the formula. I measured that Bosch coil this morning, and it reads 1.5Ohm on my meter even though it's spec'd at 1.8. I'm just going to replace it with the old 1.5 Ohm Flamethrower
  13. Sorry to hear you're having the same problem @Sailor Bob, but at least neither one of us is crazy (or we both are). I had to re-read the thread to remember, but it seems to me like the issue isn't actually the pressure plate or the collar, as I was getting the proper 92mm stackup. The problem seemed to be that that my pivot ball was too short. I'm not sure how it's possible, as @240dkw's pivot measures the same on the bench as mine but a few mm longer when installed. Some kind of local space-time distortion is the best I can figure (or measurement error on my part, whichever makes more sen
  14. @duffymahoney Yeah, that was my hope but it doesn't seem to be sensing anything now. I figure that wires ②, ⑤, ⑥, and ⑦ must have something to do with the tach and I just haven't hooked them up correctly. Would you mind snapping a picture of the wires you have hooked up to your ignition coil? What did you do with that little black wire that was hooked up to the capacitor hanging off the old distributor (mine is electrical taped along side the temperature probe wire)? In better news, I went for the first real drive this morning with the new distributor and the engine feels really
  15. Hey Everyone, I just replaced the stock distributor in my 11/70 240Z with a new 123Ignition unit along with a new Bosch coil. The car now runs great, but the tachometer no longer works. When the engine first turns on the tach jumps up a little bit, but then slams back down to 0 and stays there. Anyone have any advice on what I screwed up? Here's how things are hooked up currently (see image below for my wire numbering): [Black] The black wire going to the 123Ignition unit is connected to the coil negative [Black] There's another black mystery wire that was hoo
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.