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I used the ones from o'Reillys. The SS hoses won't have any effect on wheel cylinders. They are for connecting the hardlines to each other. One from up front under the length of the car to the ones of the wheel assembly. They are for the movement of the strut's up and down. @w3wilkes used the cheaper ones with good outcome on his '71 by bending the short hardline at the wheel.

Hmm thought experiment, would you prefer a S30 Brand new or this. I no hesitation on my part. I know I know, Dave quit living in the past, this so much better... Still no way I would trade my 75 dat boi for this one. One of the issues is limited garage space, with out that I would be in trouble. So you have to choose. Prob the biggest issue I have with all new cars is I like to wrench on them, and my skills and tools are limited, so I have to have old tech that I can work on. I still think I would go for the MX-5 RF, much truer to the orig idea of a NA inline light weight sporty car like the S30. If I wanted a super car I would prob take a hard look at a corvette.

It's still ugly now ? This is stolen from a Jalopnik commenter who says he spent 10 minutes on it, and it's definitely an improvement: All in all, it's not bad --not at all-- but I can't help but think it presents like a 370z that got a bunch of work done (given the situation at Nissan, that'd make sense). It doesn't jump out as distinctly new and exciting. Can something just be "whelming?" Because this car is very "whelming." If I were shopping for a reasonably priced sports car, I'd put it on my list, but it doesn't make me want something I didn't before.

Thought I would see if the original check valves could be reused, so the first one is an old used valve, middle four are all the bits when taken apart and the last one is one cleaned up, disc flipped around for a new surface and seat buffed up.

So after a bit of a hiatus from here I have an update. Mid August I was sent home from work for two weeks due to contact tracing, paid of course, but still, quarantine sucks, especially when the weather is nice. So I cleaned up my shop a bit, aired up the tires and charged the battery on my '72 and it fired right up. It has been sitting in the corner of the shop for 22 years. I bought this car for Mrs. Racer 1.0 back in 1992 (I said earlier 1995, but I found the bill of sale, and it was 1992), and when we divorced she didn't want it. I drove it until 1998, and parked it. So here it is with 22 years of dust, dirt, red overspray and spider poop. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr It is a '72, built 11/71, numbers matching, original everything, except tires and brakes, 77,000 miles. I've since washed it, went around it about 20 times with a buffer and rubbing compound, and then made an assessment. It will be getting some maintenance and repair items, and who knows what else. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr I think I need to start a build thread. Oh, and I counted my Z farm. Six 240Z's Six 280Z's One 260Z One 280Z 2+2 Not all have potential, but I do have plans for two of the 240Z's, and at least one of the 280Z's.

I kinda like it. The front fascia / grill is classic 240. Take off the bumpers, put on a front spoiler, and that's what you have; that reverse angle snark nose with a gaping, square grill. It was ugly then and it's iconic now! The tail lights come straight from the 300ZX, actually the whole rear end. And it's shaved; just how I like my women!

Thanks for your review of the parts from KFvintageJDM, it's very timely as I might need some of the parts they offer. Regarding your question, on viczcar, about the fit on the outside edge of the front seat rails, mine has about a pinky finger sized gap.

Found it! Better late than never I guess....

I will echo what all the others have said so far. You are ambitious for certain!, and I'm not trying to dissuade you. But reality will let itself be known once you get started. Welding skills are a huge plus and will relieve some of what is ahead of you, but I think you can count on a lot of surprises, missing parts and delays. Just about every one on this forum has experienced all of those things and more. It's all part of the fun of bringing these cars back. The depth of knowledge here is amazing and this is absolutely the best group of folks to get honest help and advice about the Z. So prepare for a lot of pleasure/pain and enjoy the adventure.

Can you fit a Ghosn in the back?

...trying so hard to hold it together here.... such optimism! I love it when people have plans to be done "ina few months" for "a few thousand dollars at most..." While I am 6 years and $45,000 into my $10,000 6 month restoration...! One can dream I suppose!! I wish the OP all the best and hope it works out for him.

Overall the lines are very clean and Nissan certainly avoided the Supra's wretched excess of bulges, bends, and faux scoops and vents. If Nissan really wants to pay homage to the S30 line, the gaping maw of a grill has to go - it needs to be a substantially broader and flatter rectangle. To me the hood screams Chevy Camaro, nothing elegant about it. Expand the headlights to more resemble the sugar scoops (yes, keep then covered). Open up the quarter lights by eliminating the sharp break upwards and continuing the door line (ala S30). The rear end is a bit soft on the lines, could use a more crisp definition. Overall, too much 370Z carryover.

The thread doesn't really directly answer the question of "will 1972 (cheap) wheel cylinders work on a 71 (expensive) car?" I think that that's the real question, and if I process the responses it seems that the answer is yes. Are you just trying to get your car back on the road, inexpensively, or are you doing a restoration? You asked about value but value depends on what the goal is. And you're asking about what will "work" but it's still not clear if you're okay with bending the lines. These should work, below, if you bend the lines, I think. And you can buy prefitted line at the store so you don't have to flare your own. Sometimes we get so caught up in the internet we forget about the parts store down the road. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/wheel-cylinder-11318/5020ef8206ed/1972/nissan/240z?q=wheel+cylinder

The local club has most of it activity on FB Z car Club of Washington members. Hope we meet up sometime.

Wait! Don't cut the stub off! First thing to try would be penetrating oil, some heat, and grabbing that stub with a pair of pliers. If you cut it off, you'll lose that opportunity. Wiggle it back and forth. If you can get it to move at all, you're pretty much home free. And you've got another advantage in that it's not a blind hole. You have access to both side. Is there any bolt length sticking out the other side? And what is the base piece made out of? Is it steel or aluminum?

I agree, If it would be it I’d already be putting a deposit down. As the yellow one showed no...

Sorry to see this, but if any consolation we’ve all been there with one bolt or another. File / grind flat with a dreamt if access is tight, mark centre as best as you can. Start with a drill 3 sizes down - ideally a reverse action drill set. This is what I use to good effect ... https://www.drillallsales.com/product-page/left-handed-reverse-action-drill-bits The heat from the drilling and some self penetrating oil, I have found releases the thread and it unscrews itself on the drill bit. But failing that you may get to one size down and use a tap and die set. On the tap I find, the thread usually comes out. Good luck!

This says it perfectly!!! It’s a desirable car but it lacks the drama of the post I’m quoting below. I do like it but it’s like the sensible choice of a good looking sports car.m at the front. Now this would make me lust after one.

Nissan put on a great show for the ZCON attendees today. The setting was great. They fed us and had cars from the Heritage collection on display. I had a blast. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NYnCcyg1rKe3VF6K8

Oh, and if they were broadcasting when someone in Nashville yelled, "Save the manuals!", that was me.

I agree. My then-girlfriend and I car-camped around the Olympic Peninsula in WA out of a 280Z. There was enough room for a small tent, sleeping bags, air mattresses and a couple of small duffel bags. A car needs a reasonable amount of cargo capacity.

Yeah, I'm not too attached to the headlights or brake lights... we'll see how they go into production with these.

Welcome, the guys on here are a fantastic resource and it seems like many of them have forgotten more about these cars than most will ever know! Curious on the manufacture date? Looking at your car it has series 1 seats and console with throttle and choke, but the tool bins are in the back floor and the body vents are on the rear pillars along with a 280Z hood (or would that be a 260 in the rest of the world). I guess these things could be different for ROW RH drive cars. Congrats on the kid and another on the way, the Z will be good for that too. "Kids in the back seat cause accidents, accidents in the back seat cause kids". Looks like your taking the back seat out of the equation. ? Wilkes

The grill and front fascia is a big whiff IMO. Looks like it should have "FPO" in big letters...maybe the designer got stuck and forgot to come back to it! Headlights aren't doing it for me either. The rest looks pretty good!

Jim, I'm one of those whose cars you deemed just peachy. Given that others apparently have the same issue, I'm going to do a little digging. Earlier this year I was at the body shop who did my painting and watched as the fellow carefully followed the formula he had on hand for Datsun 918. What he gave me is a perfect match for my peachy car. I'll be calling them tomorrow and find out which paint company's formula he followed. Cheers,

if only

I don't think they can. As far as I know the reason that all the new cars have goofy proportions is due to safety regulations, resulting in the tall, bloated body, and short, small windows. I hate the trend too, but I think it's here to stay. Regulations have ruined cars, and car design, and have been increasingly so for 45 years.

Interesting thread! Especially as my Aussie (spectra looking) pump started to play up at the weekend and intermittently pumped well then dry filter time. It’s been on the car for under 4k miles!!! Fortunately I had the 43 year old original pump and a small socket set in the spare wheel well so I swapped it out on the side of the road. Then I proceeded to carry on with my 3 hour round trip journey and even terrorised a Mustang having a go and not thinking my car was a fair bit quicker ;). Just love that modified L28! And in all of this the old pump didn’t miss a beat!! I only replaced it previously so that the engine bay looked new/ tidy When I put the L28 in. Waste of money by the looks of it. I will take it apart at some point and upload photos.

I am still undecided. I guess I just haven’t hit on one that I think will add anything to my eye. I just spent a day with ZCCW doing 450 miles on the back roads of Mt Rainier with TerrapinZ’s 70 (with his newly repair and new paint) behind me and these car are beautiful. Don’t want to muck it up or add any extra holes.

It is an odd colour... looks smokey burnt orange in darker settings but looks more orange in sun. A white interior makes it look even more orange "Creamsicle Effect" Just like the early red looks like a tomato colour in some light and more Ferrari in other light.

I'm not sure that production is really a good idea... I worry that would just encourage people to mess with their AFM's when they probably shouldn't. My AFM came to me already messed with, and the glue blobs completely removed from the inside. Even with bright light, magnification and careful study, I could never determine where my AFM started. My PO removed all traces of the original calibration marks. All I knew was that my car ran very rich, has aftermarket injectors, and my PO messed with everything including the AFM. I had exhausted all other avenues and came to the back-hand conclusion that my PO messed up my AFM. It would certainly have fit his MO. He was after "more power", and I think someone told him that "more fuel makes more power" so he tweaked the AFM. I have since re-tweaked my AFM and it runs waaaaaay better now. So about the tool... I do have a milling machine, but I didn't use it for the gear teeth. I did the teeth on a "shaper". I'm sure you know what that is, but for those who never heard of one, the shaper is the predecessor to the milling machine. Old school. The saying is "You can make anything you want on a shaper. Except money." One tooth at a time and then rotate the workpiece to the next position using an indexing head: Here's a shot of my ancient indexing head. From the late 1800's or very early 1900's: Sorry for the thread-jack!