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Thanks for everyone's help. I adjusted the dizzy tang and it runs great

Hi Blue , I am glad to hear that .Everyone admits what Katayama-san had been dedicated for . Of course Alan does too . Alan wants to spread correct information to the people outside of Japan , I wanted people in Japan to know more about export model , because their family “ Datsun 240Z ( for US and Canada ) was sold in the biggest market for Nissan . The difference between Fairlady Z series and Datsun 240Z ( all export model ) would make people in Japan fun to look at . So , this time this green fantastic car did a great job for people in Japan too , because so many people watched this car and they became to know what a beautiful color combination it is , and they realized there might be still some cars like this existing in the US , what a great country it is ! Blue , when you come to see me , this nut 01211-00021 will be your souvenir from me . I have dozens of them , my goal is inviting overseas friends until this nut runs out . “ L “ means this needs to be turned opposite direction for the steering side rod Left . My little collection of bolts and nuts for suspensions. Kats

Very easy to do, they fall out as you remove the strut mount, I doubt you find much in the way of wear on them but they will need a cleaning with solvent and compressed air. After that just pack them again with bearing grease and install.

Wintergreen will revive rubber. Resistance is resistance, it has no direction... so from an electronics point of view the connections don't matter... but from a safety point of view, the higher voltage path may be optimized for safety (e.g. more distance from potential shorts/sparks, smaller connector lugs to prevent shorts/sparks, etc.). It is well worth the effort to get it correct. Edit: Ok I rechecked and +pos sender terminal is insulated so you need to ensure the voltage goes to the sender terminal. Disconnect battery if working on this device near gas.

And I'm trying to get across the point that factory rated outputs are for *bare* engines. A smog pump-equipped, retarded timing anti-emissions L24 simply cannot have the same real world output as an L24 that is not similarly encumbered, even if they *do* have the same output written on their engine bay tags. And gear ratios and diff ratios very much DO have an effect on The Package. The above - different - L24s will perform quite differently in character when they are part of a car, and especially so when one is attached to a wide ratio 4-speed and 3.3 diff, and the other is attached to a close ratio 5-speed Overdrive and 3.9 diff. 432 and 432R were equipped with that close ratio 5-speed and a 4.44 diff with LSD. Again, a package that was well balanced and aimed at the sporting driver.

Hello Kats, my VIN is #93555. the instructions are the same. I will look for the inspector

So i was working on the car today and checking resistance and connections i noticed that the Air Regulator was not working and the sensor was almost broken off. Do we think it might have been an issue first of all that was causing the bad idle? was thinking of ordering this part as a replacement : 22660-45P00 according to Chickenman's recommendation. So just as a safety measure i replaced the fuel pump. OK, newest update this was kinda cool first time i seen the car running well. I was working and testing the car had the AFM connected electricly but the boot was off by about an 1" enough to see that there was an opening. I started the car up she ran at about 1k rpm REALLY NICELY! i mean i was thrilled to see her run. once i put everything together she was wabbleing again. which lead me to my earlier discovery. Also i am going to block off the cold injector to test if its leaking into the motor which is causing to go super rich. had to clean the plugs again twice. and yes i will be on my 6th replacement set. HAVING a blast. BUT WHAT I FEELING TO SEEING HER RUN!

I took the register and cleaned it up. The tracks were all full of dried up grease. Some of the grease took a screw driver to get out. I had to pull all the tracks to clean them. Cleaned the register in my parts cleaner, and then I did a final cleaning with the products in the picture. All gun oil and grease. The good news I got it back together and it works. I adjusted everything by rolling the window up and down finding the smoothest place for each of the tracks and tightening them up. I left all the tracks a little bit loose and rolled the window up and down until one of the tracks stopped moving, when it stopped I tightened it up. that worked pretty well. It doesn't seem to be binding up.

Sound deadener; you mean this stuff? Two thicknesses, eh? Which thickness is this?

Looking for shops to do a restore. I'm considering a complete restore of my 1970 240z series one. I'm in the Sacramento area. If I was to say in California, that would be 500 miles south and 300 miles north, so I'll consider CA or any place within 500 miles.

Here's another update: This past year, I started competing in autoX and it is my new obsession. After a number of events, I found that I had to scoot my seat forward and recline the seat way back to be able to comfortably fit with my helmet on. As a reminder, I'm 6'1" tall with a very long torso, my seated height is ~38" (i.e. measurement from butt to top of head when seated). So I looked at a couple of options to get me more head room so I can sit in a good driving position with my helmet on: I investigated lowering seat rails for the S2000 seats; I considered modifying my Z's seat mounts; but what I finally did was to take my lower seat to a local upholstery shop and had them reconstruct the lower seat cushion to make the centre section removable. Here is the modified lower seat with the cushion removed: Here is the normal removable seat cushion: Here is the seat with removable cushion installed in the car: They also built me a replacement cushion that was thinner but still not thin enough. I ended up removing cushion material until I was just left with a pad under my thighs. Here is the seat in the autoX config: Not only can I now sit in a good driving position with helmet clearance, but I am also seriously "in" the seat. For me, this is an ideal solution. I can drive around for hours with the stock cushion in place. When I arrive at the autoX track, I swap the seat cushion and I'm good to go. With the ability to swap the lower seat cushion, I am now completely happy with the S2000 seats in my 240z, on the street or the track!

The indent also adds strength to the piece.

Just for future reference these two pictures show the routing of the fuel sender wiring on my 12/70 240Z. The ground connects to the frame rail, this needs to be connected before the tank goes in as you can not get to it with the tank in place.

I would certainly like to see that, Mr. Hoover. I have always opined that the 1, 2, 3, series thing was a Carl Beck distinction. What I recall is the distinction between model years and 'builds' of the North American imports. And exclusively the North American imports because the 'builds' varied so much between model types and markets. Carl goes to great lengths on his website to document the various 'builds'; and he does a good job, but the nomenclature applies to the North American imports. Of course, Nissan literature commonly refers to the "S30 Series". I see it all over the place, but not the series 1, 2, 3 like we North Americans refer to. We are way off topic BTW.

@Patcon Yeah that may have been a risky deal. I think I'll not do that again. I looked into it more and I think I may go the route of the 280zx alternator conversion. Seems easy enough and will be a catch all with a lot of the electrical unknowns and probably future proof me as I wanted to hook up some more modern interior electrical bits. I'm going with the kit on zcarstore so I don't need to cut or solder any of the original wiring harness so it'll be able to switch back if someone wants it original. Once all the parts arrive and I slap them on I'll report back anything new.

http://ace240z.com/window%20rollers.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are only 4 screws and 2 nuts that need to be removed, I found a nice diagram I’ll post here as soon as I find it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Never had to replace them, just clean and repack as mentioned. Maybe in extreme cases if the balls are badly pitted. Rockauto shows many aftermarket replacement options; https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,strut+bearing,7460

Hi christoffel , beautiful car , almost identical to my orange car . The carpets still has an inspector’s name stamp , mine is “ Hoshino 星野“ what is yours? When you do detailing of your car , I think you are going to follow the instructions of installing the tools . Does your stowage instructions show the same of my orange ? Or three - step instructions? Kats

Checking RockAuto for 72 240Z, there are a couple of pumps that look like stock ones, a GMB and a Delphi. I wonder if their diaphragms and valves are interchangable with the old stuff. For $43 CAD, might be worth a try. I should cull through my old pumps, disassemble and get all the old diaphragms and valves out and see what looks usable still.

Just wanted to post that we are going to do a couple of Special Displays for the 50th Anniversary of the Z Car in June. We are asking for nominations from the Z community to fill the 2 classes (stock and modified). Each class will have 10 cars. The cars must be nominated and will be reviewed by the Car Selection Committee to see if they can get an invitation to participate. There is no entry fee. The show is during the weekend of June 12-14. This will be the 43rd year for the Concours. Nomination information can be found at www.ohioconcours.com. Follow this link to the on-line nomination form. https://cincinnaticoncours.wufoo.com/forms/z14troiw1vva9bj/ When you check the box "Nominate for 2020 Show?", additional information requests will appear (photos and background information). You can also mail the requested photos to my address: Fred D Jones Jr. Car Selection Chair Cincinnati Concours d'Elegance at Ault Park 513-829-6123 Office 513-829-4337 Fax 513-604-0084 Cell Cincinnati Concours d’Elegance Foundation 3645 Linwood Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45226 513-321-1951 (513) 321-3951 fax www.ohioconcours.com

There's a pretty extensive test procedure for the alt and the regulator in the FSM. They even show how to adjust the regulator. Old school stuff.

Check this link to see if he still has the 'Denki kit, note he also has valves listed below the kit. http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-exterior2.html

Does the car run and drive now? It's sounding like you bought a ZX that's been modified and might not even run. Lots of things not connected. I think that there are other ways to use the MSD system, with the ZX module triggering the MSD. But, you don't know which wire is which so getting there would be quite a stretch for you. You'd be better off to learn how what you have works before trying to modify anything. You have a ways to go.

I think this might be the accurate configuration. BTW, the large one is the thermo time switch because I won’t fit in the head location. This set-up looks to match the publications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can get all your spare tire tools in one bin and get yourself a fire extinguisher to put in the other one. Mine is behind the passenger's seat.

Some pictures of my #93xxx FIRST PAINT 1972 240Z. Very proud to own it, will make a detailed foto should in some months, It is not detailed yet!

These clips? They came from the top stainless trim off the 82 NA 2+2. I heard there was another separate rubber piece but mine looks to have been put in with adhesive. The trim was held onto the car with these as it was. I expect there are more for the bottom trim but I have not removed that part yet.

Fair enough. Thanks for clarifying. I agree that much clarity is needed (take some of the Goertz myths). You and Kats have helped greatly with your knowledge, enthusiasm and resources.... BIG THANKS.

Katayama gets credited with things he was not responsible for, I point that out, and you class it as "Mr K. bashing". If you're so protective of Katayama san's legacy, how come I never see you piping up when people call him "the designer of the 240Z"? I've said it many times before and I'll say it again: Katayama was a great man - worthy of his 'Motoring Hall Of Fame' place - but to focus almost solely on Katayama is to cast a huge shadow over a cast of many other very capable and worthy players.

I first have to give a shout out to my customers/friends Marc and Chris. About every two years or so I have to be reminded that my customers are The Greatest! Thanks guys! Sure wish I had saved the FIA papers I had to, as I remember, send off to France for along with, as I recall, $50.00. That was a lot of money for a Datsun dealer mechanic back in 1971 who was spending every nickel he had to race that 70 240 in IMSA. jason240z, thank you very much for cutting to the chase about 240guild and lsteppe. In one case you have a convicted fraudster and the other owns all the worthwhile Z cars on earth and is a gold plated diamond encrusted member of the Barrett-Jackson community who only drinks at the Pie-On-The-Sky Head-In-The-Clouds bar while at the auction. I had a run-in with the later character after he bad mouthed my business on the BAT comments section. Said he would never do business with me and strongly suggested no one in the community do business with me. He later called to apologize - long after the damage was done - but the apology lasted about 15 seconds followed by 3-4 minutes of his cars and what he's done to and with them. Series 1, series2, series 1.5. We were taught to identify Datsuns by their production date. Yes, That sound deadener was indeed on the floor, trans tunnel and rear deck of Zs. it was 2 different thicknesses and up until about 2 years ago was still available from Nissan US in both thicknesses. May still be available, I haven't needed any for that long. I'll give you, sorry but you don't have a choice and it ain't all pretty, my take on Mr. K and Nissan/Datsun in the US in the early days another time but just now I have some zinc to sort. Cheers and I hope everyone has a safe weekend

No worries. I love and respect them both ? Actually I don't like the fact that Nissan did not move the LY crossflow head into the main product. I guess the bean counters in Nissan just wanted to turn the crank and keep the production moving with minimal fuss. My issue with this thread is all of the unnecessary Mr. K. bashing... one grows weary of the seeming agenda.

We're getting off into the weeds here, but since folks are talking about engines: I'd actually have to say that the most enjoyable stock setup I've driven was, surprisingly, a 1970 Fairlady Z-L, sporting an L20 married to a 5 speed. This is a package combination that's largely unknown outside of Japan. The ratios, suspension geometry, and handling just feels "fun" in a really pleasing way that i have not felt in other setups. I personally prefer it to a stock US-specification setup, and for my style of everyday driving, I think it also compares favorably to the Z432. The Z432 is indeed also fun, but in a different, more purposeful and specific way. I struggle a little bit with the S20's power band, which is less sympathetic to lazy driving. In comparison, the most "beefy" setup i've driven is my Rubello 3.1 S30 with 4-wheel disc brakes, 5 speed, and modern suspension. It's a super competent car, but if I'm being honest, it's really less fun to drive in most situations except really fast on the freeway. The best news here is that there are so many variants of s30, both stock and custom, that there's something for everyone to like. That's quite an extraordinary achievement.

Great detailed post Mike, but two others regarding this car with multiple pages of comments already

The wire has to be inducted from the hole which is inside of the tail light trim panel . The one which the black big harness coming from is for the drain . Hope this helps Kats

Beware the BAT Z car scoundrels , there are several.

There is a guy 240zguild that shows up on BAT regularly that buys and resells z cars. He has recently begun assigning numbers to the cars he sells. The most recent, he calls "guilded series 001" that he claims sold for 6 figures. I don't understand what people see in his work that would warrant such silliness. I could see this car fetching top dollar due to its low miles and originality. I can MAYBE also see the Franklin Mint car selling for top dollar for it past history. But I cant understand why anyone would pay 6 figures for a modified car. Thoughts anyone???

Thanks for the ideas on that I need to lube it up for sure. I got the latch adjusted and the gaps are starting to take shape now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk