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About Sean240Z

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Kanata, Ontario, Canada
  • Occupation
    RCAF Aerospace Enineering Officer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1973 240Zed

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  1. Thank you for the mention. It looks like you did a great job and well documented! I love my S2000 seats and I'm sure you'll enjoy the additional support afforded by your new seats! Cheers,
  2. Here's another update: This past year, I started competing in autoX and it is my new obsession. After a number of events, I found that I had to scoot my seat forward and recline the seat way back to be able to comfortably fit with my helmet on. As a reminder, I'm 6'1" tall with a very long torso, my seated height is ~38" (i.e. measurement from butt to top of head when seated). So I looked at a couple of options to get me more head room so I can sit in a good driving position with my helmet on: I investigated lowering seat rails for the S2000 seats; I considered modifying my Z's seat
  3. When I bought my 1973 240z in 1991, it had 72,000 miles. This weekend, after 26 yrs, I surpassed 172,000 miles in my Z (I wanted to pass the 100,000 mile mark in my Z, before I put it away for the winter). This got me wondering how many other Z owners have driven their Z car more than 100,000 miles? It also got me thinking about how my journey with my Z started (see pics below): The article that introduced me to the 240z: The Auto Trader ad that led me to my Z: A pic shortly after I bought my Z: A recent, and my favourite pic of my Z:
  4. I'd be interested in a set. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. UPDATE: So last fall, on one of my last drives before I put my 240z away for the winter, the outboard, front bolt through my adapter plate broke the driver's side, front seat cross mount. [Note: In the below pics, I have already drilled a new hole, inboard of the failed area]. Because the outboard seat mount extends forward of the front seat cross mount, pushing back on the seat back put additional tension on the bolt through the front cross seat mount, and caused the metal to fail. I decided to use an 18" section of angle steel to sandwich the original front cross seat mount, stiffe
  6. I've previously used the soapy water method to find a header leak. If you already suspect where the leak is, you can apply the soapy mixture when the car is cold. If the exhaust is leaking, it will immediately blow bubbles, as soon as you start it. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. Siteunseen - Thanks for the info and link. I'll have to order some of the black ABS cement. I can only find yellow, grey and white here. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. So the ABS cement would work to fill holes? Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  9. So I decided to clean-up my centre console. At one point in the past, the choke bracket, mounting screw receptacles in the underside of the console cracked. The owner decided to mount the choke to the console, by drilling two holes and bolting the choke bracket through the top of the console. Also at one point, my car had dealer installed Aircon which had a control mounted on the centre console, just aft of the gear shift. This control housing covered the heads of the bolts securing the choke bracket. I wanted to remove the Aircon control housing as I've never had Aircon installed, t
  10. One thing I forgot to mention, is that the driver's side holes where the hinge mounting screws went into the hatch, had enlarged over time, likely due to movement or vibration. So I tapped all the holes in the hatch and installed slightly larger diameter screws. I also applied silicone before fully tightening the screws to hopefully eliminate water ingress down the threads. The hinges are now tightly secured to the hatch. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. Siteunseen - Given the rear hatch is pretty much the same 240 thru 280, I'd guess that the louvers and hardware were the same. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. I took a few more pics of the "finished" product as I didn't take any during the overhaul. Here is a pic of the finished louvers (needs a wash). Here's a pic of the underside of one of the louvers with the black caulking applied. Taped up before I caulked, smoothed with finger and removed excess. Drilled out and replaced all the rivets on the centre spine. Here you can see the globby weld job on the centre spine. The first time they welded up the spine and ground back the weld, it cracked while I was moving it around to prep for paint. Second time they welded the centre spine, they
  13. Over the winter, I restored my aluminum louvers. Above is a pic, before I restored them. They are the screw in type, with the hinge at the top and barrel latch at the bottom. They were installed by a previous owner, I like them and they are my preferred style of louver for the 240z, but I wouldn't have installed them myself (don't like the idea of putting screws into the hatch). The louvers rattled A LOT, and once removed and weatherstripping pulled off, it was easy to see why. The outside frame was cracked, clean through on the right side, and the center spine was cracked through, both abov
  14. Just a bump to the thread. Dave is now on post #21. He's done a great job of documenting the process. We should be ready to install the engine and trans in the next week or so.
  15. Madkaw - Those seats are awesome and look like they belong in there! I think the curves and style of those seats fit well with the 240z interior.
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