Leaderboard

Ding ding ding. I've driven a 300WHP 240Z without chassis modification. (RB swap) It was stoooopid fast - scary fast. Not that you can't drive it that way BUT it twisted the hell out of the chassis. Popped a bunch of the spot welds in the rear - creaked like a Spanish Galleon. The owner had to find another frame to put the drivetrain in. On the other hand, my sons '76 280Z (L28ET) makes 230WHP and 280 ft/lbs of torque, runs nice, is FAST, and doesn't tear the hell out of the frame... If you're going to put HP in a 240Z, LOOK TO THE FRAME.

Great looking Z - great looking wheels - my Original's are still on my Z. About $42.00 each with shipping...

Thank you but I can’t take credit for originality. All of my inspiration has come from the masters on this forum. My skills are hard earned from trial and error, but my confidence comes from seeing truly great cars being restored by the great forum members we are so truly blessed to associate with.

Thought I'd post just a few photos, including the dozen Scarabs in attendance, the largest gathering in history. There were never more than six cars at Scarab Engineering when they were in business. This was special as we reunited Brian Morrow with the very first Scarab he ever produced in late 1973. Brian was unaware the car still existed and after 43 years he saw it for the first time. It's owner had it for 34 of those years and kept it in outstanding condition. Scarabs took four top awards at the 2019 ZCON. I debuted the Scarab book I have been working on for well over two years, after finding and interviewing all the original players. The book is titled, "Resurrecting The Legend - The real Datsun Scarab Story." For those interested in a copy, they will be available for sale on eBay early next week. I have a limited number of copies left. Enjoy!

Wow, look what it is valued at, this one ain't gonna last! DEAL OF THE CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys. I did a few more valves, and I think I've got a non-problem. There is significant interference between the seal and the valve stem, but the stem is so smooth and with a little Mobil-1 on there, the seal just can't get a grip. jonathanrussell, what I have here behaves exactly as you described. I messed around a little bit with a valve and seal loose from the head, and I think it's OK. The seal is scraping the stem, but with the oil on there, it's really slippy. I'm moving ahead. Thanks again guys!

I just took a second look....no dash cracks.

Then you must pity us poor Commonwealthers with the Cdn or Aus dollar! Trading at $1.32 Cdn for the US dollar and 1.64 Cdn for the Pound! Then add shipping, duty, brokerage and taxes..... Not looking forward to my future UK purchases for interior pieces that seem to be available only in the UK. ?

Problem resolved. I had a stuck butterfly valve in the front carb.

The only reason I'd DIY the mount is that I like to find a reason to use the metal shop I have access to and to make whatever parts I can for my Z. Looks like this will have to wait, just found out my camshaft needs replacing (ouch).

I found this topic interesting as I have been running the AR LeMans wheels for years (about 88 miles everyday). Mine are 15" x 7". The lips stay polished for about 4 weeks. I made the mistake of clear coating the centers. The magnesium doesn't like the clear over it. After a year the clear started to get white flakes under it. No matter what they look like, I still get comments like, "What are they?" and "Where can I get some?" I love them. They are very cool nostalgic wheels. Just thought I'd share.

I think it is natural for people to have a bias toward their local market variants, and in pre-internet days not so many people got to see other market variants - so they didn't even consider them. What I do not understand are people who tell us not to look, or that a particular market/model is not worthy of attention. It is bizarre. Every variant has its own significance and the more contemporary variants you look at, the more you learn about them and your own market variant. There is always something to be learned. I own variants from three different markets; Japan, UK and North American, and two different models from one of those markets (Japan). Each one informs not just about itself, but also teaches us something about the others. I find it fascinating to compare them, and I'm still learning something new every time. I contend that you cannot understand each model/variant fully without looking at its production line and showroom siblings. It's a pipe dream, but I'd like to have an S30-series Z event where we managed to corral at least one of every variant/sub-variant and market model, and every different production spec and showed them all together in one space with full access. No velvet ropes around the cars and no cars locked. I think it would be both interesting and informative. Just a pipe dream though...

I’m having a high idle speed issue. I’m running between 1,600 and 2,100 rpm. Prior to this, my 74z with a modified 280z engine running a pair of SU’s was having starting problems and would sometimes stall and idle somewhat slow. I decided to try and adjust the carb’s using https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ Because one of the fist things to do was to check the spark plug condition and gap, I installed a new set of plugs. I’ve never adjusted the timing because I cannot find the timing mark (I have a gun and I know how to use it). I set the idle screws all the way out and then backed them in 1 ½ turns. Then it started right up with minimal cranking, but the rpm is too high. To get a balanced air flow from the pair of SU’s, I had to turn in the rear and back out the front SU’s idle screws. Doing so maintained the high rpm. There was a small vacuum leak from one of the ports on the vacuum balance tube that I stopped with some Teflon tape on the M10-1.0 bolt the PO installed. I couldn’t find any other leaks between the carburetors and engine/intake manifold. The fast idle adjust screw is out all the way. The vacuum activated dashpot between the carb’s not pulling the throttle open and the choke cables are disconnected. Could I be missing a vacuum leak or could the timing be too advanced? If so, how do I go about re-making TDC on the harmonic balance?

I fell off the road in the wet a few weeks back - actually whilst taking it quite easy for once!!! My Michelins were 7 years old so the rubber had gone off Here in the UK, the best all rounder I could find was Bridgestone Turanza T005. Which for good reviews for wet traction and dry in this size. The other option is of course the ultra expensive Michelin MXV-P classic tyres. At £300 per corner it was a bit too salty for my tastes!

That color is hot.

The fragments would get splattered up to the valve cover and around up top but once they get to the pan they have to go back through the filter before reaching a bearing. Might be interesting to split the filter open.

Glad to help. By the way, if you find the spring from my hazard switch, let me know.

Special, one of a kind heat treated panels with cor 10 patina. Big bucks as wall art.

On my 14" rims I am using Vredestein Sportrack 5 tires. They are 195 70 hr 14. They are a summer tire so not good if you want to drive in temps colder than about 45. They are 300 treadwear tires so pretty sticky. I was looking for a summer tire that is stickier than most of the all season 14" options. And, they work well and stick well for an old school tire size with tall sidewalls. I don't expect that they will last more than 10k miles due to the 300 TW but that isn't an issue for me....I drive my cars often but not a ton of miles. They will probably reach their age limit before I wear them out. I think I purchased from Tire Rack. Edit: I see you are in Austin...so maybe a good option for you.

It looks like just wear. Once you break through the surface the lobe can wear quickly. The base circle looks intact, it's on the rocker pad in the picture, which indicates proper valve lash. Fairly common, especially during break-in of a new camshaft. Some of the members here have burned through some cam lobes. @madkaw I think, for one, if I remember right.

OMG..that camshaft lobe is unbelievably messed up. Never seen anything like that. What could have caused? Zero valve lash clearance? Are the other lobes normal?

I must of not aligned it properly when I rebuilt it. For some reason it was working fine for several months. The local SU whisperer knew what was wrong within a few minutes. Unfortunately, he also discovered that the exhaust cam on cylinder 3 was overly worn and I'm going to need to replace the camshaft. I didn't like that overly aggressive camshaft so now I have an excuse to replace it.

I think that the reason I still have the receipt - is that I still have the original Warranty Cards for each wheel. (just in case - LoL)

Sure Hiyabrad, actually I'd prefer that. I'll post my PayPal address here as soon as I can confirm postage rates. I should be in a position to ship books the first of next week. Thanks for your interest.

pull the CSV out and see if its leaking fuel. if its warm where you are (above 70f) see if it fires while cranking the engine (it should not).

Thanks GN. It was a fun project. I realized afterward that a person could probably bend a single piece of steel to fit the bolt positions on the side of the tunnel, then drill holes for mounting and the the GM mount. No welding, just good bending and 5-6 holes drilled. That Technoversion mount is a pretty nice piece of work. Hard to do it yourself for the same value.

A silk purse from a sow's ear. Beautiful craftsmanship from top to bottom, front to back.

Original AR Libres

A little progress tonight. Powder coated the fantastic new COP manifold from @convertt and added a little JDM Password bling with dress up bolts.

I once "borrowed" a box of black hair dye to freshen up a set of cargo straps for a 240z, never heard a word about it, couldn't be me my hair hasn't been black for years. The cargo straps looked fantastic.

Thanks Alan , I feel more toward American people as I fell in love with my American 240Z . That was my very first experience and the passion for HLS30 is still glowing. I feel sometimes I am the only one who loves American 240Z deeply in Japan . ( yes the orange VZ’s owner Mr . Watanabe is exceptional ) So the statement “99 % of people in the US doesn’t care about JDM S30 models “ seems to me correct and I can say 99% of people in Japan don’t care about the US 240Z , this is my feelings over twenty years of my experience. But like me , if people in the US have a chance to see and get behind the wheel in a stock Z432 or 240ZG ( property maintained of course ) , they will be delighted and opened their eyes widely for sure . Even L20 Fairlady Zs , will bring you some excitement not only just being RHD , they have different features in a cockpit, and exterior. I have to find seriously of this red VZ which was sold to someone in Japan with a combo of Ferraris and some other marquees . I took some pictures of the car when I visit the show room in 1998 . This car is almost perfect original condition, it seems only a few small things need to be replaced if I were the owner .The only big work would be applied to the radiator core support upper , around the hood stay clip area should be flat for the early cars like this HLS30-00630 . Up to mid 1970 ? Someone corrects me please . By the way , I have four different Mr. Watanabe in my S30 friends . I am sorry if I make you confused. Kats

Agreed, I’ll give it a coat of paint. Well, my wife was out of town for the weekend and it was too hot in the shop. I just had to have it all cleaned up before she made it back. I think I could get used to A/C in my shop, but guessing that will be a tougher sell than working a few hours in the house!

Working on your Z in the kitchen. You must have a very understanding spouse.

This is doable with a 3 liter motor but it takes about 12k to do it unless you are a very gifted engine builder. The head work alone is about 2-3k of that. Rebello or Datsun Spirit build them all the time but the real question is "How fast do you want to spend?" Very difficult for a DIY'er to hit those goals. These cars don't really need 300hp, an honest 200-225 makes them move really nicely without tearing the drivetrain and chassis up

.... remove fuse box, pull all fuses soak for about 10 minutes in vinegar right out of the bottle, wires connectors and all. You'll see the connectors brighten up in short order. Rinse everything well, blow it out with air and dry with a hair drier or let it air dry. Reload with new fuses and maybe a little dielectric grease on the contacts and watch for a marked improvement in circulation. Good Rx for 30 something year old Datsun arteries. Discard used vinegar safely. It will make your salad dressing taste funny. sorry.......