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Somebody may have an interest in these. Getting more expensive every day... https://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/d/durham-datsun-240-for-parts/6895350668.html This one is at a junkyard by the looks or it https://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/d/strawberry-plains-datsun-240z/6898466586.html This ones not very cheap, figuring it's gonna have some rust on it... If somebody here buys them I can sleep better and won't have to fall into temptation. It'll be like it's still in the family

Hi @kats, this is my only connection to Stratocaster's. 15 years ago I did a set of manufacturing drawings for a vibrato system that a guy was designing for vintage Stratocasters, he called it Xtrem Tremolo. I got so involved that I ended up creating a full 3d model of his guitar complete with the system he designed, here are a couple of rendered images of the 3d model. I really enjoyed that project, as it was such a change from my usual work of designing mining equipment. Thanks for reminding me, good memories Cheers Mike

I just posted this trick in another post. Disconnect the oil pressure switch and turn the key to Start. That should cause the pump to get power. If it does or doesn't, both will be clues. You might have a bad switch so reseating the plug won't help. Make sure that the wires to the switch aren't shorted to ground either. That would be like having the switch closed. Also, check your fusible links.

Nothing but Gated Garaged Vehicles !!! The thrill of driving stick always puts a huge grin on my face .... 1973 240z (Viper Dark Green Pearl), 2005 Ferrari F430 (Rubino Micalizzato-Burgundy Pearl), 2002 Ferrari F360 (Rossa Corsa-Red), 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (Red), 2010 370z (Black Cherry).

This car is an inspiration to me as I start on my own restoration. Astounding that this is a 25 year old restoration. @motorman7 I like your "Where's Waldo" analogy to spotting items that may not be technically correct. I had to look long and hard, but I found three. First I would comment that it feels petty even mentioning them on such an immaculate car but here they are anyway, please correct me if I am wrong. - Later gas cap with bar type handle - Later replacement alternator, should be "grapefruit style" - Has series two dash with provision for cigarette lighter and on/off marking for hazard light switch Again there so much to like about this car that these type of issues are eclipsed by what is right and its history.

I would echo this sentiment - this is one of my absolute favourite / friendly car forums and why I lurk a lot. Lots of very lovely people here. Read Jason’s words in the spirit he meant them. Knowing him in person, he’s a very decent chap with a no nonsense attitude. He’s also a total connoisseur of Datsuns and Bimota bikes!!

Blue , you play the guitar! I love Fender Storatocaster . Like Zcar , 1969 model is the best I like . Jimi Hendrix is my hero . Kats

Are you talking about this forum? If so, you might want to reserve your opinion until you are a little better acquainted with it.

Hi again! The car runs and drives very good…but I’m moving it to another shop for the past details. The tunings will not be deep, but will consist in verifying the electrical system with the addition of new connectors, recovering a corner on the dash, applying the centre console, tuning the front bumpers and correcting the leather parts on the back! The wheels will be recovered into the original charcoal colour! These works will make the car looks better and will make me rest fine…I’m tired of waiting… Let’s go to the works: Interior glass trim. Hood latch Almos tone hour to aplly the mirror… Gearbox insulator applied… New interiors…worked very good!!! Some details… The plate gate arrived and was apllied. I state the fuel rail wasn’t the correct for the 71 generation…so, I applied a correct one! Some more details… Here is the result befere went home! Filling up the tank…so great… At home…near the 510 SSS Hope you liked it…let’s wait 15 days to get it completely done!!! Regards Mário

If a 240Z (HLS30) can hit six figures, this is one of them. I saw this car at the convention in Syracuse.

You won't find big ego's here. Our love of Zs drives us to want the best for all of them and do all we can to keep 'em on the road. The friendships that develop, on the way, are frosting on the cake.

Its a nice car, you can't say anything 'bad' about it. However its not been restored to total factory 'spec/standards'. Nice car though.

I am blown away by the quality and engineering that went into this Zcargarage BBK (big brake kit) The kit was designed by stoptech engineers and Zcargarage from the ground up for the Z. I am sort of a guinea pig to see if consumers can install this kit. They have amazing detailed 40 page instructions. Which in the car world is rare. I’m stoked to get them installed. Kit comes with everything needed to install and retains stock parking brake and MC. Fits 15x8 wheels as well! So light!

Here's the link to this beauty: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-39/

Got an update to my LED Dash Light Upgrades. About a month ago, the brake warning light began to act funny. It started off by glowing really dimly even when it was not supposed to be illuminated. Then it would flicker brighter when hitting bumps in the road. I checked all the connections, and looked for the relay under the passenger seat. I could not find the relay, but everything fine otherwise. I decided to pull the bulb and check it out. Turns out the bulb was faulty. When hooked up to a good battery the bulb would flicker when shaken. The other red LED bulbs I still had are way too bright so I put a stock tungsten bulb back in for now. The rest of the LED interior bulbs have worked great.

The best place for the 240z

Lots of cars like this in the South East and South West but they tend to be really rough. However as prices climb they become more viable restoration candidates if the rust is reasonably contained. This was a $200-300 car not that long ago. Not any more...

It's described in great detail in the link at the bottom of site's post from atlanticz. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/moreinfo.htm

Can't believe junk yards like this exist.. it just amazes me. But you can find some awesome parts.. ?

Wow, that is one beautiful Z car.. ❤️

Could be a bad relay. If you can grab a new one at a cheap price, I'd swap it out.

Guessing by that railroad crosstie, that tarps been on there since before bungee cords were invented?

You can chip it out but if you are going to sand blast it you need to remove the oil baffle entirely, lots of sand can hide in there and destroy the engine later. I used 3Bond 1184 to seal the oil baffle and securing screws, it has held up well over the years. Best to wait until the powder coating is done before reinstalling the baffle.

Kats I'm sure I don't need to tell you this, but old tyres are for display not driving on. ? On my 72 240z when I replaced them after having the car in storage for many years when I was living in Europe (7+ years) I decided to replace all 4 tyres. To my shock I discovered they were from 1987! I couldn't believe how different the car felt when I put new tyres on it. It completely transformed the car. It went from a bone jarring hard ride to a soft complaint car. When we replaced them we noted the sidewall was starting to crack. I am not surprised you had a tyre blow out.

By the way @kats I wasn't sure if I should share this here, but I figured this car would appeal to someone such as yourself. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-39/ More from it's originality stand point that the history being put forth.

@kats I love love love the 8-track. ? I really like the warm feel of the old radios. I think the movie The Man From U.N.C.L.E captures the magic of the old radios in this scene. I can almost taste that sandwich watching it. ? I would love to find an Peppino Gagliardi 8-track out there. :).

Don't forget the high carb diet!

Install and instructions are a breeze. Rota 15x8-0 clear with ease. (Wats are on order)

And here are two quick upholstery pics from the camera phone. Should have more to show this weekend.

I ran out of likes for the day. Great news.

Thanks for all the info. I swapped plugs and the high speed miss went away so that's nice! I did have a problem with the curvature of the float tab on one of the floats. It was to rounded and ended up hitting the needle more on the side then the top. I did my best to straighten it out.

Cool. I am jealous too. I am restoring an old Japanese-made guitar and I need a part that I see on your 8 track picture ?

One more tonight, I would like to show this tape , this is a Nissan 8 track stereo demo tape . It contains guidance of operations of the stereo system , a female voice talks to you “ thanks for choosing Nissan 8 track car stereo, this stereo is very reliable under vibration condition.... to begin with, let’s adjust the balance of left and right speaker s , I will make a sound from the right , then left , and both ... “ And this tape is made by Clarion , Stereo system was made by two manufacturers, Hitachi and Clarion at that time . Hitachi doesn’t provide music , but Clarion was a brand of music , lots of singers belonged . This tape , at the end , Nissan March is featured. I found this March was used in the film of “ development of Datsun 240Z “ at the end of its video , you will hear it. Kats

The NOS rear glass has been installed successfully, I am so happy with it . Mr. Tasaka , who is my friend and he restored my Z432 for the several car shows in Japan and ZCON 2014 did the installation job . He is very happy because the old glass is going to be on his Fairlady 240ZG awaiting full restoration by him , just for his pleasure. Also he has a white Z432 , has been sitting for a decade, half completed its restoration. Seems this old glass pushed his mind ahead and gained his passion for doing his own cars , I am also looking forward to seeing his cars ready for the road . I just can’t remove the label on the glass , well , the rain will sink into the paper and once it has softened , the wind will blow it off . Kats

There are a few, but also a few items in which I am thinking that my stuff isn't correct and this one is. It's kind of like a 'Where is Waldo' game to me, where you try and find the items that are not correct. The one item that has me intrigued is the antenna stack. There is a missing black collar that would be in the middle of the antenna stack and it does not seem to affect the assembly. It intrigues me because I have good top and bottom pieces for the '73 antenna, but all my middle sections are severely oxidized. Maybe I don't need it.

Welcome to the forum soggyfish. There's no jealousy here, at all. That car has been on every facebook group in the whole galaxy over 10000000 times. Maybe I just dont' really appreciate dealers/flippers/speculators clogging up everything for their own interests. Its a nice car. Glad you joined here to contribute your opinions, all opinions are welcome.

Nice to see it finally listed so he can stop advertising it everywhere.

CruiZer(currently not) & Racer... Chris

Here's the 240 Nissan, I put it on dry. Metal against the header. here's the later 280's that Gwri8 bought.

The manifolds are secured by a total of 17 studs (or 11 studs and 6 bolts, depending on which camp you want to be in). The Parts Manual lists them all as studs, but under 3 different PN's (with the related locations vaguely identified in the exploded-view diagram: Type ‘12’ – 08214-82810 - 10 of (short) - includes the top-most row, where my engines have bolts rather than studs. Type ‘13’ – 08214-83010 - 2 of ('shorter long') - one of these is clearly located in the diagram as the rearmost stud where the rear engine 'slinger' (hoist) plate is secured. Type ‘14’ – 08214-83210 - 6 of (long) - used in the locations where the thick 'yoke' washers are used to bridge the flanges of the intake and exhaust manifolds. Notice how the Parts Manual says there are 18 studs. In fact, there are only 17 studs used to secure the manifolds. I'm assuming that one of the Type '13's is used somewhere else. Here's the kit that MSA sells (my original studs are at the top of the photo): Notice the oddball silver stud (the one in the centre - no yellow zinc plating, different overall length from all the others, different length of unthreaded shoulder from all the others. Here's a closer view of my original studs (the snapped-off stud came out of the engine slinger plate location, natch)... A couple of observations: They all have the same threaded length for the end that screws into the head (makes sense, but easy to overlook during re-assembly). The threaded length for the 'engine' end is shorter than that for the 'nut' end, which means that I've got the studs stacked wrong-side up in my photo of the MSA studs. Once again, one of the 'long' studs is a little shorter than the others and has a slightly shorter unthreaded shoulder. In this case I know it was not from the engine slinger location, but unfortunately, I didn't notice the difference in the long studs until I had them all out on the workbench afterwards, so I can't be sure where it came from. It's possible that my snapped-off stud was also a 'short long' type, meaning that these are supposed to be fitted to both the rear-most and the front-most locations. If that's the case, then the MSA kit is technically incorrect by supplying only one of them. I don't think it's going to matter much for the front-most location, but I'm going to definitely fit my single 'short long' stud at the rear-most location to secure the slinger plate (I have a suspicion that it's made from a higher-strength grade of steel than that used for the plated studs). Comments welcomed from any of our veteran or professional L-Series engine rebuilders.