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Fenders now complete

My thoughts on corrosion go something like this. After we go to these kind of lengths to restore these cars, most of them will see very little inclement weather and no salt. They survived being exposed to those things until we got them. So they should last a lot longer than the 47 years or so if not exposed to those elements. In addition, most of us will treat the inside of these components and seam seal the chassis that was lacking originally.

So many unknowns to make a guess on what it's worth, but the difference between 75 and 76 in CA is significant. A 75 won't need to be smogged; a 76 will. That's worth a fair amount of money to the right person.

Rich.....I don’t know what you charge, but I’m sure it isn’t enough!!!!! Very, very nice.

Side to side. I took a better measurement and its really about 0.030". I think I feel better about it now. thanks!

in deed, skate parks, wow, went to a few of those. I recall one that was built but nver officially opened (liablity issues prob) anyway they put a chain link fence all around it (was HUGE right of I-95 near commercial blvd in so fla. Sneak in and go crazy with no adult in sight, just 100 skate boarders going nutz. It was fun. I was a bit too old to try the nuttier stuff the 12-13 yr olds were pulling like hand stands down the giant hill to get up speed, then up a wall just to lose it in free space and fall on their butz. I had an old solid thick board with sand paper glued on it. fun stuff until the ambulance shows up.

Thanks Guy! The profits are used to support my Z habit......I probably need to go to rehab.

"Improves drag coefficient by 8%" Hey, don't flood the market.

Already 2 200 000 JPY ! No way , I am out . I now realized its engine and transmission, and R192 diff as a set were the ones which pulled and sold on Yahoo some years ago , they were very good condition. I wondered where was the body , but here it is ! Kats

Got the rear quarter windows cleaned up and installed. Also have the rear panel finisher temporarily installed with some small screws (Yes, I think that is my finger). Waiting for my small rivets to come in. Started work on the front firewall as well. It's starting to look like a car. Will probably get going on the doors next.

If he plans to swap a V8 in that wouldn't matter so much. Generally, I say pick a car that has the least of what you hate doing and the most of what you like. Why buy a rusty Series I car with a low VIN (high value to many) if you hate body work and want to modify it? I bought my non-running 76 car, engine quality unknown, because it was straight, no body work required, with minor rust. I've had several diffs and transmissions in it, different seats, suspension, brakes, and it has a 1978 engine. Great fun doing all of that work and I never smelled Bondo once, or got sanding dust on me.

Take $2000 cash with you and offer $500 first

good luck! hope this fixes it.

I'm looking at this one: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=46963&cc=1209226&jsn=1

hard to say, obviously an OE would be best but maybe harder to source. I would go cheap, bosch if you can find one, but who knows prob all made in the same factory now. dont really think the life time stuff is worth it.

nice, mine is long gone to some flea market at the thunderbird drive in. Had a pointy front and a squared off back with a little kick piece glued to the back.

We had both of those. I think I still have an Alva board here somewhere. You can tell the drugs were readily available when you see a car like that!!!

I agree. Motorman ought to raise his rates.... AFTER he gets done with this car! <grin>

Rev the engine to above 2000 RPMs and check the voltage again. It should rise to 14 + volts.

On the other hand, we also tend to beef up suspension and drivetrain, plus the power levels, so strength of structure is still an important discussion ...

That pic is a good argument for 305 IMO (minus the fingers ???)

There's that, too. Even at an occupant crash decel rate of just 3g, the forces generated by a strapped-in 200-pounder through the seat belt attachment points are compelling. And the resulting stresses in the sheet metal can jump even higher if the local panel(s) starts to deform.

I wonder why some people do this. Is it because they want to prove it's do'able or simply more money than sense?

I just puked a little in my mouth ....

Got the new battery in today, $110 at Costco for an Interstate Battery with 3 year warranty. Will do other tests tomorrow.

Nice find! I have the same one although it has some battle scars. Not a lot of them around, especially NOS!

I can never resist a good structural engineering puzzle. Of course, unibody structures are not simple affairs to analyze as the load points and paths are complicated. And automotive design decisions can also be influenced (if not, dictated) by manufacturability and cost. From a structural perspective, we're looking at a long closed-box section that acts as an outboard rib for the floor panel. The floor panel has an equally strong inner rib, in the form of the open-box section created by the transmission tunnel. The rocker structure connections to the A and B-posts have to transfer/resist both axial loads and torques (and not just in simple bending mode, but also torsion, such as when a single wheel hits a pothole or a ridge). After staring at diagrams and photos of the rockers and the (very complicated) dogleg area, think the design solution used by Nissan at the ends of the rocker structures reflects all three considerations: 1. Structural: I think the structural decision was premised on a desire to have all of the loads from the rocker structure to the A and B posts transferred/resisted in shear through a single plane (vertical-longitudinal in this case). It's elegant and simple. It also means that... 2. Manufacturability: The spot welds all occur in that same plane and can be accomplished without the need to rotate the welder electrodes, and... 3. Cost: The inner rocker can be stamped with a single-shot (not need to fold flanges are the rear end to allow joining with the wheel housing. This might also assist in stacking the parts for shipment and storage. This is all just educated guessing, offered by an engineer who should be retired but still needs the money. To assist in further speculation, here are a couple of photos for your consideration (as usual, with apologies to the original posters whose names I failed to record)...

Just installed the pair of Msa 3 point retractable seatbelts in my 1972 240z. There are okay and rub a little bit on the neck. I will keep the original ones as i would like to restore them. I did opened a hole in the carpet and jute as the gear look better over the carpet. Any recommendations?

Just curious but are those the right lug nuts for those wheels? Mag wheel lug nuts extend deep in to the wheel. Mine barely stick out past the edge of the wheel center but they have plenty of thread engagement. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/gorilla-tech-tips

At this point in time, I think it's safe to say that cutting up a straight, rust free shell is sacrilegious. Doesn't look like it's the right year anyway.

Guys, Please don't cut that car in half! Hiyabrad, maybe purchase Sving1s entire car and transfer all your good stuff over to it? I know, none of my business but.... Hey, is that guy on the far right taking a leak on the tumble weed?

No not on this engine but it's a habit I picked up on other engines where the valves are the same size. But it doesn't need new parts, everything is within spec, besides if I install new bearings that means I have to take the crank in to be polished which means I don't get the crank back for 3 months with un assembled engine parts all over the place. No thanks.

One of them has snapped off and it was already moving, I could turn it back and forth about a 1/4 turn, then it snapped I would like to keep it just because it came with one but I may have to block it off, long way from that decision. It really was a filthy job and the carbon and crap that came out of that heating chamber under the manifold, there was a pile of it. 1977 Color Wiring Diagram Version M.pdf To continue on with what madkaw was asking, I'm realizing the EGR system is more elaborate than I first thought. The EGR controller at the end and moving toward the front next the BPT valve which is also heated by the same exhaust tube as the EGR, then vacuum tubes leading to the thermal vacuum valve that is on the end of the Idle Air Control Heater. If I do delete the EGR how much of the rest of the chain needs to be removed?

Must be my lucky month. I get a 77 delivered to my house on Father’s Day and Chris is doing a thread on a 77!! saves me a lot searching because it will be covered quite well right here. I wont jack your thread but might make comparisons with my 9/76 . I’ll start my own thread since you’ve given me incentive . Funny that the car is the same color too.

I think the chemical engineers designed that old brake fluid in keeping with the idea of owners trading in their vehicles every four years or so. How many people do you know who actually ponied up the money for a brake system flush? Oil and filter replacement? Absolutely. Maybe even a can of STP or top-cylinder lube. Ignition system tune-up kit? Of course. New brake pads? OK, if I really have to. But new brake fluid? I think not.

Whoa. I got a serious case of diagram envy. That thing is beautiful! I guess now is not the time I should bring up all the mistakes I found recently, huh?

Picked up the wiring harness poster from the printer today,