mbz

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mbz last won the day on April 21

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About mbz

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  1. Good points, but I'm trying to stay as conservative as possible on the actual resale value. I think $25k is pretty reasonable and a very attractive price point. But like I said, I told the seller my buying price, if he wants to sell it to me he knows where I am. If he wants to sell to someone else and get more money, good for him I applaud his efforts.
  2. Yes, I see comparable vehicles in respectable condition selling for about $25k on the high end. Considering the frame rail and floor pan work, the paint prep and paint job work, plus other mechanical and interior work, it would put me right about at that $25k range. Which means I would have to put in quite a bit of time and money without any significant margin potential when finished. I told the seller at what price I’m a buyer and to call me if he ever decides to sell at my offer price. As it stands right now, he’s about double my offer price.
  3. Anyone got an ID on these wheels and possible value?
  4. Hey guys, so I got some info from a friend of mine over at Hakone Motorsports.... based on the attached photo, he thinks I'd be looking at not only replacing both frame rails but also possibly the floor pan on the drivers side as well. Looks like I could be in for $2000 - $2500 worth of repairs. Which means I'll be passing on this purchase because the asking price is just too high when considering the repair expenses required.
  5. How much money does a trip down the frame rail rabbit hole cost? ie; "If you're going to fix one frame rail, you may as well fix the other while having the work done, thus it will cost $XXXX amount per rail and about $XXX amount to have both done." OR - maybe the answer is more like "Just do a spot repair on the rusted part and it will only cost $XXXX amount" It seems to me that the frame rails are pretty darn important, especially if you want to be able to put the car up on jack stands and work on it. It looks like a frame rail replacement kit on MSA costs $505 after tax. What kind of labor costs are involved with welding in new frame rails? Depending on what it costs, it may or may not make the vehicle worth purchasing.
  6. Hi All, Open question to the group, looking for info on the cost of frame rail repair/replacement. I am considering purchasing a '73 240z, however during initial inspection I found that the back end of the frame rail on the driver's side is rusted / rotted out. It looks like it needs to be repaired or replaced. I am trying to factor the cost of fixing the frame rails into the value of the vehicle, but I really have no idea what it would cost. Should they just be repaired? Should they be replaced? If I fix one side, should I fix the other side? Input is requested and appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  7. Had the pleasure of meeting jayhawk today at the JCCS and saw the finished Z car.... motorman7 did an incredible job restoring this vehicle. This car was hands down the best OE restoration vehicle at the entire show. Every detail was nailed spot on! Here's a few pics that don't even come close to doing justice to this incredible restoration. If any forum members get a chance to see this car in person you are in for a real treat. This is a museum quality vehicle. Kudos to you both and to your body/paint guy.... amazing work!
  8. Maybe reach out to this guy.... https://www.f40.com/Meet_Wayne_Carini He specializes in dusty unicorn barn finds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hi, I have a 76' 280z (steering wheel mounting hardware looks identical to your photo above), and the horn pad is triggered by a smaller copper spring in a rigid rubber tube under the horn pad mounting bracket. I know there are some changes between 75/76 and 77/78 model years, so the horn functionality of your car may be different than mine. I believe the wire is for the 240z steering wheel and horn pad mounting bracket. Is the parts illustration exploded diagram above for a 240z or 260z? Try checking the fuse box first if you haven't done so already. I think it's a 10A fuse for that slot, but check the 1977 z car FSM to be sure. Here's a link to download it for convenience: Then check for the actual horn itself to be sure it is there. Then try looking for the little copper spring under the steering wheel horn pad mounting bracket. I hope this helps.
  10. Found this on Petrolicious just now, pretty cool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Oh... forgot to mention, one quick test that helped confirm running rich (besides pulling spark plugs), when the engine is running, take off the oil filler cap on the valve cover.... see if that makes the engine run better or worse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I just had a similar problem, I hope this can help: The issue for me was there was a bad (worn out/old) connector cable going to the water temperature sensor. DaveWM was super helpful in walking me through a logical step by step process of troubleshooting the problem. Maybe reach out to him for some guidance. First started with checking fuel pressure, both BEFORE the return line (could be fuel pressure regulator), and AFTER the return line to see if there is blockage in the return lines to the tank. Be sure you have a good fuel pressure gauge made for Bosch fuel injection systems. I had a bad gauge that caused a lot of problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. In case you haven't found this yet, here a link to the FSM downloads: https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/ It may come in handy when taking apart the grill.
  14. Yes of course do your due diligence for your own piece of mind and confidence. That car looks to be awfully close to 100%, do the rust checks as previous guys have indicated in this thread. My brother in law is a Miata guy, I've driven his... compared with the Z, personally I'd take the Z car. They have a way of growing on you quickly. 😁 Congrats again! I love to see people do well!