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You're probably too young for this, but the answer is shift it like Rat Fink: RIP Ed "Big Daddy" Roth: http://www.ratfink.com/

So after some hammer and dolly work the backer plate was re-aligned .... It didn’t look too bad but some of the rust pitting actually went all the way through once I started grinding so ...Plan B again.... _ It’s not perfect but it’s reasonably close. I probably could have just patched the holes on the original plate. I did a couple of mods to Big Bertha last week and wanted to try her out so ... Bertha got rewired with a proper bi-directional toggle switch and a deadman foot peddle so both hands are completely free to control the work piece ... So basically just need to weld her all up ...

I'd rather have the skills that are in play here. I could buy the tools.

Pretty decent looking rear bumper delete in my opinion. Probably not a good idea to drive close to schools with those plates.

Someone was asking about how the jig can be used to re-align body panels ... basically BFH... I had to pull this backer plate forward about 1/4” and down about 1/2” to repair previous accident damage. Easy peasy .... Depending what you need to do, you can use pry bars, come-alongs or whatever for works ....

Make two, only one about 2/3's as long. Pls...

Mo-town?

And cut a sunroof hole in the top so your knuckles don't scrape the headliner.

He was 5....

If only I knew someone with massive fabbing skills... I’ll be down end of March, have it ready!

'Tokyo' Looks to have been written fast and loose...

Sure. So I use a Bosch GLL 30 on a tripod, or on a bottle jack for down low. Because the jig is already plumb and level, the main issue ensuring infinite height adjustability. The Bosch doesn’t produce two vertical lines, just one vertical and one horizontal in a cross hair. So let’s say you are aligning fenders for example. First you set up the laser on the longitudinal center line of the car. Then pivot the tripod to dial the laser in to a reference point on one fender. The pivot it back to center. The horizontal laser line will hit both fenders allowing you to check the alignment of the same reference point on the second fender. The Bosch has similar accuracy specs to the model you posted (5/16 in 30 ft), which is plenty accurate in my opinion. So in the fender example, the fenders are 39 inches apart, and you are working from the centerline so 19.5 inches. I’ll use 3 ft (so I can do the math in my head ?) - accuracy increases to 1/32 “ over that distance, (which I would call negligible). You can spend more for more accuracy, but I wouldn’t. Certainly these lasers are well inside the factory tolerances on the day the car was built. You should be able to get what you need for $50. I hope this helps ...

I think you received the dash intended for my car ?.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.Xmo+clamp.TRS0&_nkw=mo+clamp&_sacat=0 Lots of styles and types. Some have dual points so you can load it in two directions at once. If your jig was fastened to the floor you could add pull points in the floor and some cribbing and basically have a 240z frame rack

I buy them off Ebay or Amazon. More challenging for those of you North of the border. I try to get one like this, then I have one that has more room behind the jaws to get around flanges and such and I have one that will join up 10 or so weld on studs to pull. I also have a wide one that has double jaws

Yeah, that's a good way to get hurt. I don't bounce the way I use to and that concrete gets harder every year!

??? - Done!

It’s really the tools and many many tries. But sheet metal is cheap ?

I have a selection of Mo-clamps like this. They are not very expensive but they grip tighter the harder you pull

Just participated in a 200 mile drive through some old AZ mining towns yesterday, had a great time! The Z ran outstanding on cruise and acceleration, good AFR numbers. I did notice a few rich spots (around 12 AFR), but all around very good. Got 25.5 mpg driving through the hills, am happy with that! Am going to order the RH needles for comparison purposes, and possibly lean out a few spots in the range. Am very happy with the SB needles, just love to tinker!

Tours are free! Burnouts ... have to charge ? For the Nissan guys ...Greg and Seb from SpecialtyZ will be back in Edmonton for Dynopalooza 2019 in June. I think there will be old roadsters all the way through new GTRs this year. I probably won’t have a car there this year, but it is still a good time ...

Let me help a bit with your knowledge base. NOS = New Old Stock New = not used; Old Stock = not recently produced. A lot of NOS parts are also NLA = No Longer Available, as such are often valued to restorers who want high accuracy and won't accept used or reproduction parts. These grommets go in the firewall where your heater hoses pass thru from the engine bay to the heater core inside. The grommets I have are NOS but are still available from Nissan - see this link: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-grommet-rubber-2724328500. I also gave you a link to aftermarket reproductions for $25/set plus shipping. The new Nissan ones will cost you at least $21.68 each plus tax, your local dealer can probably order them and you can likely pick them up there to avoid shipping costs. The set I have are $30, including postage. If still interested, PM me and we can complete the transaction. Jim

As the booking agent for Kent’s shop, we will be organizing a three day ZCon Calgary event this summer for shop demos, select huge horsepower burnouts and track events in any of his Porsche, Nissan, or NSX whips, followed by an Alberta BBQ for the record books... Interested parties PM me with your PayPal info and I will send an invoice for an absurd amount of money to pull this off.... [emoji2957]

So you're thinking that maybe they were working furiously when they wrote it.

At first I wasn't sure I'd like that bracket, but I think with some radius bends as suggested and some cut-outs on the horizontal blank face to 'lighten' the look (maybe some nice laser cut graphics) it will be pretty cool.

For Sale is a "New-ish" Master Brake Cylinder, 15/16 Bore (1978 280z), bought it NEW, installed it then pulled off my 1973 240z the same day!!!. It did not work with my SU Air Box because the bleeder valves interfered. Classic dumb move on my part... installed it, added the brake fluid, bled the brakes ..... then Oh Shxx !! The Orange Airbox would not fit back on due to the interference with the bleeder valves! For Sale $40 or OBO with free shipping to continental 48 US. If interested, PM me or text (507) 208-0140 .. Mark

I have a set of 240z L24 Oil Pan SHORT screws, total of 32 pieces (31 plus an extra NEW). They need a good cleaning... https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic14a/14-1260 $3.00 or OBO plus shipping... Hope someone can use them... text me (507) 208-0140 or PM . Mark

I want one of every tool you own and maybe the shop as well.

Yes Gavin , S20 engines have sleeves in the cylinder bores , that is why it is very good for cooling the engine. This video is my favorite , just enjoy of the S20 music. I want to drive my Z432 like this ! But maybe I can not . What I will do is, I will use a racing alternator , a rcing starter , and an oil cooler system , and hopefully a set of racing cam . And an earliest gear driven oil pump which makes strong mechanical sound ! The driver is Mr. Kurosawa , this was taken in 2001, at his age of 61 years old. Wonderful racing driving , he was a chanpion of 1969 Japan Grandprix driving Nissan R382. He said at the end of the video , " Our factory race cars were very sharp coming up torque "boom! " from 7000 to 8500 rpm compared this car . However this car has the same sound and feeling , this car reminds me of my old days " . Kats

This is from my 12/70 build car:

Don't worry about the 2-3 psi change. That is actually good, the engine is running better now and pulling more vacuum. The higher intake vacuum drops the fuel pressure in the rail because the intake manifold is pulling fuel out. It's working like it should.

OE (Niles) inspection light for S30/S130/Trucks, completely refurbished. The light was dis-assembled, body stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc; switch dis-assembled and cleaned. It has a new grommet, new bulb, new repro lens and gasket (a $40 item from 240zrubberparts.com). $120, includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested, thanks.

The body of the ashtray is clear zinc, the fittings are chrome.

Like a boss...!

@Mike B Thanks! That made it easy!

Why not get one directly from BRE? https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

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