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Wow. $400 for a common Vintage Z program reprint. And marked down!

Could make a great Dilbert comic.

I would go for the P79 NA engine you show above. Looks clean and complete. The one cam lobe you show looks good. Pull plugs, make sure it turns. Might pull the valve cover and give a good look at cam.

Well nice work on that bead roller, and nice work on applying the tools you have as well. The metal work that you have been doing is great. Way beyond my pay grade. I made a little press brake I use on the hydraulic press... Does that count for anything?

My only input into the turbo/NA discussion is that I have no experience at all with turbo stuff. If you go turbo, other than generic "applicable to any engine" stuff, I won't be of any help. Not saying that's a decision factor, but just sayin.

I don't know where you heard it from, but it's not correct. None of the factory works rally team 240Zs used KONI shock absorbers.

if your checking out the engines on site, you could bring a breaker bar and a socket, and do a quick on site compression check. I was able to get about 50-70 lbs just by a single vigorous pull. check and see how well balanced it is.

Turbo's are cheating, there, I've said it and can never take it back. Here's the sound turbos love to make

Wow, that's some pressure. I'm not really the turbo guy though, I just read a lot. I always recommend picking the project that has what you like to do in it. To do a turbo engine right you really need to enjoy working on engine management, the wring, computer, AFM, associated turbo parts like the blow-off valve, etc. You need to be very techy. If you're not going to get the extra 1982 parts, like the computer, wiring harness and AFM from the ZX, then you'll need to choose an engine management system. 1982 engine management is pretty primitive though. Most guys end up with Megasquirt, for example. If you go that route then you'll need to tune it, using a computer and adjusting various tuning values. Very computery. @cgsheen1 has some definite views on turbo engine swaps, he's done a few. His view, as I recall, is that you'll learn a lot trying to use the 82 ZX engine management but in the end you'll want Megasquirt or a later model Nissan system. If you want to add power to an NA engine you'll probably need Megasquirt, again. The stock EFI system isn't tunable. Hard to get them running well after power mods, like a cam, apparently. The opposite is carbs of course. Then all of the old school stuff applies. If you're going to have the engine rebuilt anyway, the choice kind of boils down to carbs or computers. Which makes you feel best? By the way, the P90 head engine non-turbo might be a low compression dished piston engine. A turbo engine with no turbo. So it might need new pistons if you want to get some pep out of it. If you can tell by examination which engine seems least abused, that might be the way to go. Less money to make it right. Alright, the coffee has worn off...

It’s a P79. It looks pretty clean. I pulled the dip stick, it was already drained but looked clean. I didn’t see any major leaks or rust around the block of this engine. The fact that he’ll delivery it and it’s 15 miles from my house make this the winner. He’s giving me a 60 day money back guarantee that it will run without any major mechanical problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. I've got it in my shop by the door with a fan blowing the fumes out the door. It will have lots of time to cure.

That's the p79, no? It's got an oiler cam already. You need the to keep the laughing one your garage. it says!

Hey, how about that - it's got the fuel rail you were looking for! As far as a cam-oiler - gotta find the one somewhere in the garage.... I know it's out there, laughing at me every time I pass by it looking for it... Wayne

I would leave it like that. Shouldn't be a problem. No need for extremes there

No body does QA anymore! My company laid them all of and is having the developers test their own code. We recently had a town-hall meeting with upper management to discuss the increase in escaped defects to production and the root cause...

I just bought it.... I can't resist anything that's >50% off.

Whoa... you were a Datsun junkie wayyyy before I showed up! I just fanned the flame under your resto fire.

PS: thank you, and I blame this whole obsession on @wheee! ?

Yup - same idea exactly. I used square tube instead of plate because the section adds strength without all the weight- kinda like our cars ?

That's it exactly, turbos are a perfectly legitimate form of power gain but it seems like everyone I know who has a turbo is always fixing the latest weak link, it's like a spiral staircase that never ends.

Have you adjusted the valves? That may smooth things out. Also have a look at the cam lobes for wear and the spark plugs for consistent colour across all 6. Often when a 280z runs rough, simply cleaning the electrical connectors will bring it back. It may be useful to do the above health checks before swapping engines so that the electrical is debugged and you gain some useful tuning experience.

Great comments guys. This place is a great resource and I appreciate all the comments. I’m going to look at two of the engines today. I’ll take pics and post them because I know someone on this forum will see something I miss. I’ll also swing by harbor freight and see about the borescope. Gonna need an engine stand too. I’ll see the last engine one in about 10 days and make the choice then. In the meantime I’ll start reading the engine rebuild book I bought on Amazon. Can’t wait the see my wife’s eyes when she finds an engine in our tiny and already stuffed garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha - good point for sure ! The bead roller started out as a Princess Auto (Harbor Freight basically) special. It was junk. I kept the dies and started over. Gears are from Boston Gear, Motor was pulled from an electric hoist. It was a fun project on it’s own!

Well first its Running at the 1973 Baja 500 Off Road Races. Second it is a 620 which I think was one of the best styled 70’s Datsun Pickups. Third Mr. Conner (the driver there) was an independent advertising Promoter who brought SIMONIZ Corporation as a sponsor for the BRE Team and Datsun Competition efforts. (not to mention I was a New Car Sales Manager for a Datsun Dealer in 1973). The 68 Pick-up in the second picture was prepared by Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE) for Mary McGee & John Timanus. As part of the BRE 1968 Team effort at the Baja. BRE ran 3 Factory Supplied and Supported 510’s that year as well. One of which Mr. Brock owns today.

Didn't meant to leave Bertha out of the mix. Nice shop made edge former! You make that? Absolutely not. It would set a bad precedent. There are many of us who's first attempt(s) at a project goes.... ummm.... unmentioned.

I would think! Don't tear it up twice! Call Wayne...

Cliff, my N47 has a spray bar only I believe. I didn’t see holes in the cam lobes for oil purposes. Good idea on the notebook. So, I’m going with the general consensus that the 82’ NA is the way to go. I think it has a P79 not the P90 the P90 was in the turbo engine. I’m surprised no one voted for the N42 head engine in the 76’. Good advice on making sure it turns by hand and getting a Bluetooth borescope. Buying the rebuild book tonight on Amazon. Wayne, yes that’s pulled. I’m going to look at two of the engines tomorrow, the third is 2 hrs away (near where we went last time) and will have to wait a week or so. The plan is to bring it to my house and start tearing it down here and drive my wife nuts. I’m hoping it will fit in then back of my 4Runner on a pallet. I need to think this part through as it probably weighs in excess of 450#s. May need to borrow a truck or a small trailer...may need your help! Good thing I just had shoulder surgery 2 weeks ago! Supposed the be on light duty for 4-6 weeks. I imagine my doctor would be opposed to me trying to lift engines alone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where would that be if there is no door plate?

So this is definitely going onto my car somewhere! Leopard 2 Main Battle Tank breather fitting! All Z cars should have tank parts... GPMG C6 Machine gun 7.62mm round for scale.... [emoji51]

Okay, I think the turbo is a no go. I don’t need more trouble and this will be my first engine rebuild. So help with the heads, pistons and compression for a strong street car. P90 Head was for turbos. Came with dished pistons and lower Compression Ration to accommodate for the boost. P79 was the NA turbo ZX engine with flat top pistons. This will yield a higher compression ration. ZH...copy all on my N47 in my car now an be used. There are 3 non-turbos at different places in my area. One is an 1980 and others are 82’s. Two of the places want a core charge....one $100 the other $200. That’s silly. I agree...look for the cleanest engine that seems less abused and with least miles and least rust and old leaks. P79 is the Head I want corrrect? This way I may not have to buy replacement flat top pistons as I would if I went with the P90 Head engine. Unless someone swapped them before which we’ll assume for this discussion....didn’t happen.

KONI. ?

Thanks Cliff. I drove a turbo once in like 1989. It was a peppy little car and fun to drive. I know there was like 1 turbo for every non-turbo built so they’re harder to find for sure. I forgot about a new ECU and probably AFM and wire harness. Maybe the guy would throw those in....probably not? I’ll wait for ZedHead to chime in. He always has good comments. Starting to think a 240 not rusted out is becoming like a unicorn these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just sourced this one. Thanks for your recommendations mark. I accidentally blew the fusible link shrink wrap off so maybe will order one if needed.

Looks like Week 3 (January) of 1987 production. Being the 8641 prefix, they are the externally rebound adjustable, twin tube low pressure gas version that were made for a few years in the 1980s. I believe that the 8641 versions were likely made primarily (and maybe solely) for the North American market and likely even built in a US factory in Virginia that operated from about 1982 through 1989 or so. If the adjusters are not turning (probably from jamming by hand or impact tool or internal bottoming most likely), then dyno testing them will be of no value and wasted money and time. Additionally, whomever tests them will need to have a dyno with fixtures to hold the Z-car's uncommon spindle attached strut housing. They could likely be rebuilt but it would actually be much cheaper, faster and have a full warranty if you were to simply purchase the brand new ones from Motorsport Auto. You would be much farther ahead to start with fresh ones than pay the labor and parts to fix the old ones which would still not be entirely new. It is definitely less expensive per unit to build new in a large production batch than rebuil;d them onesy-twosy paying for labor and parts.

The different positions could be either a spring rate difference - or a difference in Free Length. The corner weight could be 635 lbs on one side and 685 lbs on the other for example. So if the spring rate is the same, then you would use a slightly longer spring on the heavy side - so that both side would wind up with the same 'installed length". Most of the Factory Service Manuals give you the Spring Rate (constant), the Free Length and the Installed length.

“Framed” but not floating ....

I took this around 30- 35 years ago and never saw it again, anywhere.

I think the same guy who works on your valve seats would be able to repair your spark plug issue. Are those the exhaust valve seats that look so grunged? But then, how does one complain about a 4-valve, cross-flow head? Pretty cool, Kats.

@Rod's Garage A suggestion. Please turn up the resolution on your camera settings and post the photos as large as possible so that we can see more of the details in the images. There is a lot in there that can't be seen and appreciated when the photos are so small.

No problem, The one close up wheel pic you showed was for a late 73 (TOPY 11 73). I was kinda looking for 70 wheels. Looks like your having a fun time with the car. Enjoy....... If you haven't already I highly suggest you download this It can answer a lot of your questions. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/66-1970-240z-factory-service-manual-body-chassis-volume/ and this one: https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/20-1970-71-240z-factory-service-manuals/

First, I wanted to thank those of you that responded regarding vintage dashes and the 240z. I also wanted to give you an update. I was able to connect with the vintage dash people. They are for real. They have developed multiple products. They are different than many vendors that I have dealt with in the past, namely they are very serious about producing a quality product. They appear to be very ethical. They decided not to take deposits in advance, unless they had product on the shelf. Quite admirable when you think about it. For whatever reason they were having a manufacturing issue with their mold. What they described to me was (in my opinion) a couple of minor aesthetic flaws. They believe that this situation is resolved and expect to have 240 product within 4-5 weeks. They do keep a list of customers that have requested product. My understanding is that it is based on emails that they receive. I believe that originally they were requesting a deposit, but as I said earlier they stopped that practice. So if you contacted them by email you are apart of their request list even if you did not provide a deposit. My understanding is that in the very near future they will be reviewing this list and contacting customers to validate interest. "Whee" is correct - a little more patience will be required.

They are legit, just don’t have a real good sales site or contact representative. My friend met them at Monterey this year and they were selling like hot cakes. They are making multiple products and trying to keep up with demand from what I understand. Patience and I’m sure they will come through with your order if it is already placed.

Lots of pics when you receive it Dave.

That new dash looks sweet! My dash is out of the car with the old, cracked pad removed. I cleaned up some surface rust on the metal skeleton. I still need to implement the wiring changes to go from an ammeter/fuel gauge to the later voltmeter/fuel gauge.