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OMG, I'm drooling. This will be one sweet ride. Can't wait to start assembly.

So the factory rails narrow in quite a bit just before the radiator guide to accommodate the width of the rad .... Initially I thought that the additional width wouldn’t be important, but I decided keep my options open and replicate the factory design. So I had to trim and cap my rails. Here is ‘how it turned out .... Basically I made a cap using the shrinker stretcher, cut the rail and and welded it in as follows: Almost done the drivers side!

Well they fit great. Haven’t screwed them down as they are for a friend of mine and my existing holes doesent line up. I have a different hole pattern on my old covers (there were at least 2 or 3 different hole patterns for these lenses through the years). Looks and feels like a very good quality item.

OK. I'll look through my pics and post a couple that would probably help. In the meantime, here's a couple pics of a pair of face cap pliers that I hovered off the web some time ago. These are made by Gator tools and are way to expensive to use once or twice. You local locksmith should have a pair of something similar: I made a crude pair out of a pair of slip joint pliers. I don't have any pics, but I'll take some and post what I did.

Well, if you buy a pack of 25, use what you need, then divide the total cost by 25 + a reasonable percentage profit, and sell them to the community. This way you got yours for free and no one is getting gouged...

Did he say titmouse?

Interesting to me that several of us are on the same wavelength or something---I'm on it too. I've been staring at several complete set of locks on my desk that are in need refurbishing for several weeks. Was going to take them to a locksmith but really wanted to do it myself. I had saved links from several suppliers of the face cap pliers. The Gator brand for professionals is expensive-- ~$200. This set from DHGate is much more reasonable, but is no doubt Chinese crap. https://www.dhgate.com/product/new-model-car-door-lock-face-cap-plier-removal/396796240.html May be worth it for the occasional use. New face caps and cylinders can be had from ASP (Auto Security Products), but you have to be a locksmith to order. I could probably get a local locksmith guy to order for me. I have a somewhat rare pinning kit ordered (A-16-100) in case wafers (P-16-141/144 or P-16-151/154) and springs are damaged. @Captain Obvious @jfa.series1 Has anyone sourced the dust shutters and associated springs? I have not been able to find those in any of the kits. ASP sells new face caps (P-16-204 for the door locks) (P-16-208 for the hatch lock), but they come 25 to the pack---not sure yet how much they'd cost. Here's a link to the .pdf of the complete catalogue, but I warn you---your scroll button will get a workout! http://www.carlocks.com/2008ASPCatalog.pdf Be happy you tinkerers!!

Here's a pic of the bracket in my car. No throttle installed when I took delivery.

I regret that I have but one like to give....

I need the upper outside shell of a driver side door to complete my wall sculpture. I need a cut just below the line below the door handle up to the edge where the chrome trim attaches (just the outside shell). I have all the window trim and the upper chrome squeegee. If anyone has a rotten door with a good upper edge, please give me a PM. Thanks Guy

Hood latch receivers for LHD S30's. These have been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. Each comes with the sriker plate and fasteners as shown. Each striker plate has some dings. $65 each - buyer's choice, including standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal. PM me if interested. Thanks.

Long term update: The alternator listed here and the one that fits the 1982 Caprice use a 10.414mm (0.41in) wide belt, and my Z motor uses a 13mm belt system. The actual belt that zKars used is a 13mm (1/2") belt so the original instructions are correct but this cross reference section is not. Initially the 1982 Caprice alternator bolted right in and with a thinner belt it seemed to work OK. Under heavy load, perhaps due to my 3.0 Rebello motor, the thin belt gets thrown. I was able to source a replacement pulley and am happy to report that with the correct pulley everything appears to be working correctly. I attempted to find a better cross reference with a 10SI alternator that came with the correct pulley but I never found an OEM equivalent, though I did find several advertised for tractors that looked right. Here is the pulley info: Delco Alternator Generator Belt Pulley 3/8 7/16 1/2 in Wide Single 1 Groove 10SI

I'm in total agreement and apologize if I was a bit huffy. This is the most beneficial community that I've ever found for sharing the experiences, knowledge and company of people like yourself, CO, Patcon, and quite frankly everyone here!

Understood. No insult meant. But it is great to have someone who actually has sought after parts at a great price, and that person does deserve to reap a small benefit from providing those even if its only to pay for the original expenditure. I dont think that anyone could claim that unethical after all someone had purchase the whole caboodle but might only need 3 or 4 parts. Why not help the community and at the same time benefit a bit even if it is a small amount. But if you did not have that intention, I fully understand and was not implying it, only commenting that it would be an excellent way for the whole community to benefit.

I think it ends the same way "___....for tat" begins. ? Dennis

Yeah, the springs are a problem. Most of the lock parts are made out of either stainless or a non-ferrous alloy. One of the exceptions, unfortunately, are the springs. From what I understand, there are some grades of stainless that are suitable for making springs, but good ol' carbon steel has better spring characteristics. That is, of course, at least until they rust into little unidentifiable nuggets of what used to be springs. Here's my hatch lock door. That little brown legless rusty lump in the middle of the picture is what's left of the original door spring: And for a fix, I harvested a couple springs from other door locks and was able to modify one of them to work as a replacement for the original. Here's a pic of some of the options I was working with. Original rusty nugget at the top and two options harvested from other sources at the bottom. I don't remember what the other sources were, but I have good reason to believe they were later Nissan products or from a Honda Civic: Based on the dates on the pics, it's been almost seven years since I was messing with this stuff, and I didn't do much writing about it at the time. So I have some pics, but the details are unclear at this point. I was definitely able to figure out a replacement option, but I'm not sure which donor spring I used. I have pics where I clipped the long one in half, but I'm not sure if that's what I finally ended up using: But for moral support... Here's a pic showing that whatever I did worked great! :

And this is a slightly-fuzzy picture posted by someone else a long time ago (sorry, no name available for photo credit) that shows the control cable end piece, c/w plastic snap-in fitting, and the top of throttle pedal arm...

I told my exhaust shop that I wanted it as quiet as possible without sacrificing much performance. The system is a modified MSA 2.5" exhaust with a center resonator and a Walker Quiet Flow out back. It's perfect in the sense that it does exactly what I want it to do, keeps things quiet on long drives and nothing but intake roar when the mains come in.

I don't have the Silvermine kit but built a similar setup and there is no noise at all, it is easy to forget it's there until I'm in a parking lot and give it a half turn of the knob and use one finger on the steering wheel. The best thing is to be able to turn it off once you're out on the Hwy.

They are available we used one on a car in 2017. Also I believe they are referred to on EBay as California seal? 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

The issue for me is when my stones get that cold, my brain doesn't work so well. I can only imagine going through what those poor folks in the upper Midwest just dealt with. It's been unusually cold here near Philly, but I consider myself lucky compared to Chicago. I shouldn't complain. From what I hear, we're almost out of it. Love the pic of the cold double D's. Colder than a witches something... Can't remember how that's supposed to end.

Post it up publicly so I don't have to PM you too!

I'm ok with slow if the paint turns out like that!!! Looks great. I agree with Wheee!

No, I leave that to the experts. Miguel at https://www.facebook.com/CustomsByMiguel/ does all the body work and paint. He is pretty amazing...and a bit slow, but worth the wait.

I don't know why but one set has 50mm intake and 52mm exhaust. The other set has 50mm intake and 59mm exhaust. In addition they do not look like they include the retainer clips. When the machinist did mine he knew from previous Datsun work that I need to get him new clips as well. I got a brass set off eBay that included the retainer clips. He installed them with no problems.

I checked my 5/71 which has the "Series 2" style center console (ash tray in the middle) and the later style choke lever / mount. There is no bracket hanging down to mount the cable (post #22). It does however still have the earlier gas pedal with the tab on the top. (also post #22) My 72 and 73 gas pedals do not have the tab. So they must have made up a bunch of pedals with tabs then just used them up late 71 to early 72. Although they stopped spot welding on the bracket for the cable a lot earlier.

A complete hood latch set for any LHD 30 with all fasteners, including the small screw to attach the release cable to the firewall bracket. The set has been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. This set is in excellent condition with a few small dings on the latch plate. $150, payment via PayPal, includes standard domestic shipping. PM if interested, be sure to mention the set #. Thanks.

Here's a teaser photo....more to follow

Update: silvermine is shipping out a set of the firewall and collars for me to fabricate a correctly positioned shaft support. He wants to make sure it is correctly positioned in a car before setting the jig up to a different angle. I will bolt up the shaft to the pedal box with the collar loose, poking through the firewall plate that will be bolted to the chassis, then tack weld the collar on at the correct angle while everything is correctly aligned. Doing this in an actual car will ensure the fit and angles are correct. I will then ship the part back to silvermine to use as the template for the production line.

Do it right, do it once.

Well maybe that's because you don't know what to look for, it also is not a broad statement it is a very specific statement. Anyone that has actually worked on repairing rust knows that that dime sized spot of rust that has popped through from inside is in fact 4-5" in dia. if not larger. Lets start on the deck lid that you think is perfect, that 3" piece of visible rust actually goes from the D/S fender to the middle of the deck lid as seen by the swelling between the spotwelds and that means almost certainly the vertical support for the deck lid will need repair as well. This common area of rust started on the inside behind the show panel and has eaten its way through to the outside all the way across the back of the car and I can tell you from experience that is a difficult, expensive repair. The rust in this area around the gas filler door will be much larger than it appears to be and will require the spot welds to be drilled out and the box behind removed then the damaged area will need to be cut out and replaced with a custom fabricated piece of 20ga sheet with the exact compound curves, body line crease and bead rolled lip the gas door nests into. And here, replacing the visible damage on the firewall is the least of your problems, the fresh air chimney and the bottom of the chamber behind the firewall will need extensive repair first before the firewall replacement even begins. @Snaponfitz, in no way am I saying you are trying to sneak one by us or hiding anything, not at all. I just don't think you will get the kind of money for your car that was mentioned at the start of this thread. I would love to take this car on as project, it has great potential.

used to be Datsun Parts LLC. He changed the name and tried to get away from past bad press. His prices are very high and he'll make it very difficult if you have a problem. Many of his parts are available from Rockauto, eBay, or other vendors for much less. Search the site and you'll learn. Here's one thread from way back. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/29706-terrible-vendor-datsun-parts/

Dropped the last of the engine parts off with the machinist. And some updates on the engine bay seam welding.

Haha thanks! So I know Mark and he is only three hours away. Been bugging him all afternoon via text about his rails and his drainage setup.. He had a lot of good suggestions and I have a couple of thoughts too. Definitely adding some type of drainage path though. Good thing everything is just clamped in right now ....

Limerock 71