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Impressive enough formation to go in our Boobs forum too!

The deal on hand throttles - They came as standard equipment on the very early imports and were supposed to be removed at the port of entry or the dealer during dealer prep. Very very few cars were sold equipped with the hand throttle. We have discussed owner manuals with the hand throttle label physically covered with a piece of paper. We have tried to establish how many cars came so equipped but the difficulty is within the idea that cars were not imported in sequential VIN order. There is too much documentation as high as three-digit VINs being sold in January 1970. So, you see, the hand throttle was never intended to be sold in North America. That being said, hand throttle systems could be sold over the parts counter and I have one; brand new in the Nissan bag. They are a very popular feature, somewhat prolific, but not necessarily a "required" early car feature. Another component to the hand throttle is the gas pedal arm. The cable from the lever goes to a ball and socket on the gas pedal.

OMG, I'm drooling. This will be one sweet ride. Can't wait to start assembly.

Arrived today. Unpacking and inspection. Very nice reproduction headlight covers.

Update: silvermine is shipping out a set of the firewall and collars for me to fabricate a correctly positioned shaft support. He wants to make sure it is correctly positioned in a car before setting the jig up to a different angle. I will bolt up the shaft to the pedal box with the collar loose, poking through the firewall plate that will be bolted to the chassis, then tack weld the collar on at the correct angle while everything is correctly aligned. Doing this in an actual car will ensure the fit and angles are correct. I will then ship the part back to silvermine to use as the template for the production line.

Well maybe that's because you don't know what to look for, it also is not a broad statement it is a very specific statement. Anyone that has actually worked on repairing rust knows that that dime sized spot of rust that has popped through from inside is in fact 4-5" in dia. if not larger. Lets start on the deck lid that you think is perfect, that 3" piece of visible rust actually goes from the D/S fender to the middle of the deck lid as seen by the swelling between the spotwelds and that means almost certainly the vertical support for the deck lid will need repair as well. This common area of rust started on the inside behind the show panel and has eaten its way through to the outside all the way across the back of the car and I can tell you from experience that is a difficult, expensive repair. The rust in this area around the gas filler door will be much larger than it appears to be and will require the spot welds to be drilled out and the box behind removed then the damaged area will need to be cut out and replaced with a custom fabricated piece of 20ga sheet with the exact compound curves, body line crease and bead rolled lip the gas door nests into. And here, replacing the visible damage on the firewall is the least of your problems, the fresh air chimney and the bottom of the chamber behind the firewall will need extensive repair first before the firewall replacement even begins. @Snaponfitz, in no way am I saying you are trying to sneak one by us or hiding anything, not at all. I just don't think you will get the kind of money for your car that was mentioned at the start of this thread. I would love to take this car on as project, it has great potential.

Put some Pontiac Blue on the F54. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Can't really help but I don't see how you guys out there put up with the stuff coming out of Sacramento!!!

I am so scarred (and frost bitten) from growing up in Saskatchewan that I maintain a heated garage as part of my massive carbon footprint. Sorry World!

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning).

Nice! How's the fit on the headlight nacelles? Dennis

Tire choice is just as critical as rim width and offset. Even tires in the same size can vary greatly in shape and true width. What is the purpose of your car? Cars and Coffee? Daily Driver? Weekend cruiser? Track car? This MUST be your first question. If you only want it to look good and be a fun car, go with a 205/55R16 high performance tire. If you must have maximum grip, you will need to end up with a squarer tire that is more likely to rub.

Makes me appreciate that I'm sitting in my backyard, next to the pool, web surfing on my iPad. I paid my "dues" living through 22 northern Wisconsin winters. Stay warm, Dennis

In all seriousness, I have been watching and it looks like this is a COOLD one. Hope all of the members in the area are doing ok!

Here's a teaser photo....more to follow

Doing this mod while the car is disassembled is a no-brainer for me. I know my wife will appreciate the creature comfort of power steering (and so will I)! As for @silverminemotors, Edan has been awesome in communicating with me about the design. He needs to ensure the final product works with his V8 swap customers, but is very motivated to improve the product for the benefit of all S30 chassis owners. For my part, I am happy to assist in the quality control of the final product.

Excellent! Definitely going to make this one of my first "upgrades" when I decide it's time to do so. Which is going to be soon.

Yes the correct pedal is part of the whole set up. In all the cars I've seen, the pedal with the extra tab were left in the cars. No need to change that out when they removed the cable and lever assembly. Later models do not have the tab. My car had the bracket fixed under the dash where the cable sheath locks into place. From there the ball end of the cable hooks to the pedal tab, pulling above the fulcrum engaging the throttle.

I've done a number of locks now, and really the only PITA locks are the door locks because of that cover. It's called a "face cap", and there are special tools (face cap pliers) available to bend the lip up and take the cap off. After you remove the face cap, it's easy to rekey the locks and then crimp the cover back into place. I've done this a couple times now and actually made myself a crude version of face cap pliers and I can now do it relatively easily. The cap on the hatch locks is easy to get off, and the ignition and glove box locks don't have caps like that. dutchxcarguy's thing is a cheap workaround. Kinda like grinding your valve lash pads to fit instead of buying and installing the correct parts. I don't think I would endorse such a modification, but maybe only because I didn't think of it.

This past Monday, I had a locksmith rekey the hatch lock to match the rest of the locks. They took it apart and reassembled with no adverse cosmetic effects to the as cover. Some times, I have recognize that experience is the way to go, so I did not attempt the rekeying myself. Took 30 minutes and cost $45.00

I have several locks that need attention and would really appreciate some guidance on how take them apart. Thanks.

Haha thanks! So I know Mark and he is only three hours away. Been bugging him all afternoon via text about his rails and his drainage setup.. He had a lot of good suggestions and I have a couple of thoughts too. Definitely adding some type of drainage path though. Good thing everything is just clamped in right now ....

I'm about 9 years in right now. I have similar thoughts

Yeah, maybe I'm not up to date on Z values, but I don't see a $20k car there. It looks like it needs a total restoration. $10k is way more in line with what I'd expect it to go for. Also, in addition to the rust in the firewall, it looks like it has rust on the inside of the tail panel, just below where the tail lights mount, where the tail panel meets the trunk floor. Strange place to rust, don't think I've seen that before.

I don't know guys, I'm seeing a $10,000 car that requires major restoration, there are tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car and we haven't seen underneath yet. The car will sell for whatever Lady Luck decides that day but hope the OP will keep his expectations realistic. So far I think he has priced it right.

Here are the injector screens, I guess they are too small.

I've been using Fel-Pro with success for many years

That's what I need!

That might be right. However, if high grade bolts have to be zinc plated they get an aftertreatment (baking) plus additives in the plating bath. As long as your plater knows all this you should be fine BTW your detailing looks really awesome!

The powder any job-shop or coater would normally use for this type application would be thermoset therefore u are good to go in that respect, most likely a TGIC or a urethane, both polyester resin. Epoxy powders will give better chemical/ gas resistance but will chalk eventually. Most solvent born coating would be in the 1-3 mils. range (DFT) and powder could be 2-10 mils depending how heavy handed they were. 2-4 mils powder would give your great look and protection. Sometimes tight tolerances and powder can be a problem unless masking/ plugs are used. Sorry for the details, been in the coating business for a while. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks it will need to slow down soon, I am getting my 77 bronco (full frame off restomod) back from paint in the next week or 2. I will need to focus on that for a bit. It's like 90% done or more.

Blue, nice find! And more pictures for the reference. Kats

I think this picture posted by Alan, thanks in advance. This car has a rear spoiler only, and before March 1971, this might be Portugal version. It is a little bit complicated,Portugal version was originally called "Current Europe Version" . The report explanes in page 3, "...June 1970 Current Europe Version was established .." . This Current Europe Version has same suspension as Z432 and has only a rear spoiler. This version was sent to DATSUN Netherland in August 1970, then they reported back in November 1970 , the team must be so shocked by the report, you can see it at the bottom "The side wind stability is very Bad " This is caused by the following point..." Mr.Takei said in a magazine " I remember it was in 1970, someone sent two 240Zs to Europe. I had thought we should not do it, it was not ready yet" " We had got the report, criticized severely. They said the car was not a sports car.Then we asked what they wanted, they told us like this, " In cold weather, with cross wind 20kts, a car can do max 200km/h and cruise 180km/h, that is minimum requirement" . " As an engineer, I wanted to try it, I was full of energy. We were told that we had to make it by the spring of 1971..." So, before June 1970, all the export 240Z has same spec. After that, Current Europe Version established. Then March 1971, Final Europe Version established. Current Europe Version was not pretty for DATSUN Netherland ,however Nissan decided Current Europe Version must remain in a line up as a Portugal Version. Kats

Thank you everyone, my like button run out today, sorry I could not hit all of them, tomorrow I will ! Like Alan said, Datsun Netherland advised a lot , and Mr.Takei is the important engineer about this. He talked about this in some magazines, we can read it with cross reference techniques.I will refer the articles later. Kats

Kats, We are very privileged to be able to see 'Maruhi' (Secret) factory internal documentation such as this. Thank you! This was the testing that Takei san was involved in, yes? I see the name Takahashi on the report too. Datsun Netherlands was clearly a great influence on all this as Nissan's European base. I had heard in the past that Nissan had a lot of feedback coming from Datsun Netherlands with regard to product refinement and development, and Nissan took it seriously. Lots of sightings in period of mysterious Japanese cars on Japanese temporary-export 'Carnet' plates whizzing around on European roads. Some of them full of electronic measuring instruments and men with clipboards taking notes... For me, the 'Entreposto' Portuguese market 240Zs were the prettiest and nicest-equipped of all the Export market versions.