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I must've gotten onto the nice list.

I asked for one of these from Santa and got socks and shirts instead...maybe next year. Hope you all had a great Christmas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ewwww. Is there a hemorrhoid wheel, or aftermarket attachment available?

Hector Cademartori artwork served as the VARA Christmas card as well as an event reminder.

I am 6ft tall, Mr.K is taller than avarage for his generation . This picture was taken when my blue 240Z was under the restoration. 18 years ago , I was young ! Kats

I wonder how they figured out 2700 RPMs were the right amount?

Cousin Eddie... https://youtu.be/5OzEcY4Qg-Q

Take a piece of clear packing tape and put it over the face of the pressure gauge. When it gets fogged up from over spray to where you can't read it, replace with a new piece. If need be, clean first with paint thinner, which won't damage the plastic face on the gauge

4:27 that is the pcv outlet.a hose connects to the pcv valve in the intake.

Sweet deal! Good luck.

Just picked up a set on eBay for <$50 shipped that was described as "smooth movement, tight, not twisted" which are all the things mine are not. Worst case, I'll have a set I can disassemble and see what would be involved in a rebuild.

Maybe. Most of them have loose joints, but there should be a couple of decent ones. My hood had the same issue, though not so bad. I removed the torsion bars, should have done the hydraulic lift mod. Next one! Worn pins/rivets are very common. I'm sure the holes they pass through are worn oval as well. Would be great to come up with some replacement rivets! You'd have to grind the heads off of these, likely weld up/redrill the worn holes and re-assemble. I'll have to take my worst one and oper 'er up and see "where the wear" really is.

I considered struts when I thought my rods were long gone. Maybe one day, but I don't think they'll help with this problem: A little tough to film with one hand and move with the other, but there's a fair amount of play that translates to vertical movement of the hood, and side-to-side slop. I only filmed one, but both hinges are basically the same. I thought they had a little more play than they should, and the rods would tighten it up (true enough, I suppose, even if the result isn't quite what I want), but I gather from the comments that these hinges are properly shot. I can't recall seeing any documentation on rebuilding the hinges (which I suppose would require drilling out and re-riveting everything), so replacement is likely the only reasonable option here?

I It could even be SR20. The website is very poorly written and a lot of copy and paste.

Thank you Santa! Now you and I just need to wish that the results of our attempts goes up and is commensurate to the improved quality of our tools.

Thank you Santa.

Practice, Practice, Practice? Imagine running it in reverse. Corn on the ceiling!

FYI S20 rebuild kit but the address is Mainland China so very risky: http://www.asmechanicalseals.com/products/Nissan-S20-engine-rebuild-kit.html

Something that just came to mind: before I tore the car down, and without the torsion rods, the front of the hood was flush with the fenders, but, I could lift it up and move it vertically. Without any other cars to compare to, I figured it was normal...but is it? My hinges have a fair amount of slop in them. Again, figured this was just normal, and the torsion rods would pick it up. If they shouldn't, I'm thinking maybe the pins have worn grooves into all the bars, and that slack is causing my problems? Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

I thought so too. At this point, I'm not assuming anything, so this is right, right? Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Cool. Must just be a trick of the light. I'm also pleased at how close my camera can focus. And in the cases where it can't focus because it's too close, I've found that I can hold an eye loupe up to the lens and decrease the focal length more. For example, here's a shot of some needles I have here:

By the way Kats I found the following online courses really useful. https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/learn-how-to-build-engines/ They are in English and a little expensive, but put together well.

Very nice! I thought Lake Tahoe. Enjoy yourself. Cliff

Lake Arrowhead. A nice escape from the desert when it's 120º in the summer and 20 minutes from a ski resort in the winter.

Lake Suburban?

Hello list... it's been a few years since I posted here last (10 or so!) So, first the barnfind is my father's 1970 series 1 240z...Yellow over black leather. HLS30-15369 While not truly a "find" or in a barn (it's in a garage in NJ where it has been sitting since 1980 when he lost his eyesight) She was purchased new by my father from Bob Sharp Motors (yes of BSR fame) on July 11th, 1970. The car was built in Dec. 1970 and delivered on Feb. 18th 1971. Within the first few months, my father had BSR add A/C, put in an exhaust ($140 + $55 install), larger front swaybar, added a rear swaybar, and installed a set of Konis on all 4 corners. My father also installed a set of American Racing wheels (All the take off equipment is still in my father's basement). He stopped driving the car (and driving) in 1980 when he became legally blind. The car has (wait for it) 24,041 original miles on it. Now for the questions: I am planning on having it transported from NJ to my home in Boulder CO, and having Jeff Winter (Rallye/Sport) help with some work to resuscitate her. So the first question is what transport companies do the collective list recommend for an interstate shipment like this? (then once the car is here, I'll need to blow out the shellack from the fuel lines, boil the tank, "replace everything rubber" re-jett the carbs for altitude, ect...) I will be posting followups (and pictures once I get the car out ? TIA! -Jason

Not in the 60s where I am today. 5,750 feet above sea level in the local mountains......where it snows and people ski. Dennis

Don't forget the cats too! Merry Christmas everyone!!! Sent from my rotary phone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Merry Christmas, Jai!! ?

I hope everyone is having a very merry christmas! I got my present a day early - I got to drive the wee beastie (and ride in it and hear it for the first time since 1986...) Car sounds good - even with needing to rebuild the exhaust system (the Bob Sharp Racing headers are nice) the pipes back are "slightly" rusted and from the glasspack back there is a sizable "chipmunk" hole... (see below for the first start) Gas tank was removed, acid etched, POR15'd and replaced (still need a new sender for fuel level which was reading open and the fuel pump didn't - the diaphragm was stiffer than your muscles on day 2 of your new year's resolution to get back into shape...) The rust on the bottom is light surface rust (the car was not driven in winter and was rust-proofed/undercoated) - In due time that will be cleaned up with a wash and all the spider egg casing removed... Well, the early christmas present was driving - the brakes still need to be bedded in (turned the front rotors and new linings on the rear drums - they still need a slight adjustment so require a hefty push for any woah.) The engine and trans work great! The controls are delicate (as is the thin-rimmed steering wheel) and the non-assisted steering takes a hefty pull at parking speeds... the tires are still slightly square and as a result feels like an old horse-drawn wagon on a dirt trail at 40, and damn scary at 50. So this then yields the question of what to do with tires / wheels. We know there aren't many R14 options. So do I upgrade to 15s? or is there still a 14" tire out there (post 2007 tire thread) that people still like... I don't want to over-tire the thing and kill the steering feel or make it so the car doesn't move around anymore (think GT86 econo tires)... but at the same rate I want to enjoy the canyons and passes near here! And finally, I found a signed letter from Bob Sharp (in a Bob Sharp Racing envelope) congratulating my dad on his new purchase... (Which goes nicely with the BSR license plate holder)

Haaa! I'm with you Jim. I have more Z pistons and rods than relatives I actually like.

The desert dog finally awoke and didn't look too happy about the white stuff. Dennis

It's been snowing here since about 5:00 this morning and my dog is still snuggled deep in the feather comforter on the bed. He's in for a snowy surprise when he goes out this morning. I hope Santa was good to all of you this year. Dennis

Started clean-up work on the differential and half-shafts. And...Merry Christmas Everyone!!!

Got some photos from the paint shop....very pretty ?

I gave Buddy TWO Milkbones! My heart is filled with love and giving this Christmas Day. Spent yesterday with my Dad. I've been thinking this Christmas was his last for 10 years. He's too stubborn to die thank goodness. Merry Christmas to you all, dogs included. Cliff

Adorable. Merry Christmas Jai.

Some bolts also stretch when torque is applied and should not be re-used. I don't know about factory bolts in that case, but the ARP ones may be reusable? I agree with Alan, it would be good to give rebuilding an S20 a go. That's where all the fun is!

Kats, About the Kameari 'Kyoka' bolts/studs for the S20 engine: This is not really any different to the upgraded bolts and studs offered for any other engine today. In fact, Kameari proudly state that they are made by ARP - probably the most trusted brand for this kind of item worldwide. ARP are almost a byword for quality and integrity, and they offer parts for our L-gata engines too. The advantage of such bolts and studs is that they are stronger for the same or similar torque settings, are often made from better materials than the OEM equipment due to advances in metallurgy, heat treatments and finishes, as well as retrospective re-engineering. Replacing factory bolts with ARP studs and nuts is very common these days and is certainly wiser than using old and/or untested parts. And when you can't see them inside the engine they are not going to be offensive to the eye. I think you could easily rebuild an S20 yourself, Kats. They are beautifully designed and engineered, and a pleasure to assemble. It's not one big job, it's just lots of small ones. You can do it! When I start to build S20 no.3 I'll let you know. I'll probably be needing some of those parts you've got there! But before that, I have to build an 'interesting' L24-based engine for the ex-Kuwashima san 240ZG. It's in the body shop being painted now.

I'm pretty tall to. Talking about Ferrari's... I can barely fit in my 1970 Mustang with the seat all the way back ( wonder how tall americans where back in the day those little fellas ?! ), the 240Z in that case gives me much more room. It's funny...

I am very close to 2 metres tall. A little big for all the older Ferraris. I guess they finally realized they needed pro athletes to be able to fit in their cars.

Hi Jason: Great story - thanks for sharing and a really wonderful 240Z. A few comments… - I can’t see any reason that rear carb can’t be disassembled and restored. I would encourage you to do whatever is necessary to retain all original parts on the Z. Keep all the original take off parts from your Fathers garage with the car as well. For sure, keep the Bob Sharp license plate frame!! - Make sure you keep the original Date Stamped Spark Pug wires and every original hose clamp etc.(the difference on value for an all “original” Z, for all these very small details can be several thousand dollars). - I believe the aluminum wheels are Appliance - not American - With a 24K original miles and original paint on a one family owned 70 240Z - I would have an Agreed Value of at least $50K with Hagerty. The Z is impossible to replace in terms of its history with you and your family - Nonetheless given todays market you, would most likely spend a year or more looking for a replacement of equal condition, and a year from now that might cost you $65K or more to purchase. (go find another original with 24K miles).