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Yes, same here. Will post pics later today of forward carb disassembly. Just had to share this quickly: I usually talk with my wife about how the car work is coming along and what I am working on. I came in from the garage yesterday afternoon and she asked me how my "Flat Bread Carbs" were coming along. So, here is a nice picture of some 'Flat Bread Carbs'.......almost as nice as a good set of 'flat top carbs'. ?

Probably the best quality video featuring a S30 that I've seen.

Ya. Jeff, pop by my place - I have one for you...

Someone PM'd me with this: "Hi Charles: A while back you mentioned that you had, on occasion, resorted to twisting a door as part of your panel alignment strategy. I can see an element of usefulness to this, because it seems like it would permit moving the bottom (or top) of the door inboard or outboard at the rear without disturbing the front edge quite as much. On the other hand, using shims at the hinge-to-post mounting point looks like it would move both the front and the rear edge outboard by the same amount, meaning that the door-to-front fender alignment would be affected. Also, shims will only move the door outboard. Can you tell me a little bit about: Why you decided to try twisting the door. How you did it. How you think it worked (i.e Did the door's box structure twist, or did the front wall of the door distort where the hinges mount?) How much movement you accomplished at the bottom (or top) of the rear of the door. Any cautions that need to be observed?" So this was my reply, it occurred to me it might beneficial to others so I copied it over to here: Why I decided? There are actually body tools available to do this. They fasten into the door latch so you can twist a door. I could get three corners of the door right but never the fourth. How you did it? So I set the front two corners of the door properly. If I need to shim the hinges, I do that. Then you have one of the rear two corners that line up. So If depending on which way you have to twist it you brace your leg against the door and pull with your hands. I am sure if you got too rowdy you could crimp the door somewhere. This door is a 280z door, so it is stouter than the 240z door. The drivers door was 3/8" or more proud of the rocker panel when it was flush at the top. After a couple of tries at twisting, it lines up really nice. I haven't seen any unintended consequences of this technique. I suspect you could twist a door 1/2" or more if necessary but that door would be pretty far out. I tape some shims in what ever location is flush so it makes it easy to repeatedly check when the door lines up on all 4 corners. Does that make sense?

This picture is amazing! "Okay Charles, just try to look natural." "Got it."

Zup, motorman7, I looked into my notes (old receipt) [over 10 years ago] at what jet needles I got as a SU replacement. But, I don't think it is quite as straightforward, as the North American market got a different part number (16354-N3310) than the UK/Europe market (16354-N3500). The Australian market have the same as the North American market. You quote N61, meaning what is etched onto the jet needle (yes?), whilst the microfiche for the European has N-56A. And my notes say N57 from the jet needle I physically took out. So, I had; https://burlen.co.uk/ profile my jet needle N57, and got AUD1550 needle (KQ) as the nearest profile. If my memory serves me, it was very close, only at the point of the needle did the measurements differ, but this matters less, as this is where the full throttle operates on the jet needle. So, I would suggest getting yours matched, I don't know who in the US is any good on this, but I am sure someone else could recommend. If not, send them to Burlen... Motorman7, if my memory serves me, there isn't a bush for the throttle spindle, just a drilled hole in the aluminium carb body. It maybe a solution if having bushings/bearing put in like Ztherapy does for the Hitatchi SU for the earlier models. Here is also a picture of a pair of NOS nozzles for reference.

The panels are a rough fit. Some massaging is required. At least you have a 240 as the 280 pans are way out of fit.

My mistake, thanks for the correction. Here's a more general layman's world document. https://polyurethane.americanchemistry.com/Products-Resources-and-Document-Library/General-Personal-Protective-Equipment-Recommendations-for-Automotive-Refinish-Coating-Applications.pdf I spent a summer at a chemical factory and some of the old-timers there said that they used to use TDI (toluene diisocyanate) to degrease their hands. They also used to dump unwanted drums in the river. Times have changed.

I just pee on a handkerchief.... worked for the soldiers in WW1!

Sorry, but I respectfully disagree on this (important) point. Let's look at the NIOSH Pocket Guide to Hazardous Chemicals. The reference chemical I will use is 'isophorone diisocyanate', which is the isocyanate that appears on the label of the can of 'universal urethane hardener' (ProForm PF-598C) that I bought from an automotive paint supply specialist and have sitting in front of me. The NIOSH handbook spells our respirator requirements according the the parts-per-million concentration of the chemical in question within the working/exposure environment. Four ppm levels are provided: 0.05, 0.125, 0.25, and 1.0. The expectation would be that the respirator requirement would become more demanding as the ppm increases. For isopohorone diiisocyanate (see NIOSH handbook page 179), the respirator requirement at the lowest of the four specified ppm's is, 'Sa', meaning 'supplied-air respirator'. There is no mention of 'Ov', which stands for organic vapor cartridge. There is no doubt that this hardener contains VOC's (it says so right on the label), but isocyanates don't fall into that category. The best overview I've found on safety hazards and requirements for spraying 2K/2-pack/catalyzed paints is produced by the UK government's Health & Safety Executive. It's an easy-to-understand eight-page review of safety considerations specific to spraying automotive paints. I've attached it here for possible interest, along with the NIOSH handbook and a Dulux tech note. The latter includes a statement to the effect that, 'All paints are hazardous if misused or without the proper safety provisions'. I sure wish that making 2-pack paints safe was just a matter of buying the right filter for your face mask, but that does not appear to be the case. That said, the painter is perfectly free to do whatever they want and they may get away without suffering any ill effects. Or not. Safety in Isocyanate Paint Spraying - UK Govt HSE - 2014-02.pdf NIOSH Pocket Guide to Hazardous Chemicals - 2005-149.pdf Dulux Tech Note - Isocyanates.pdf

Might have to make an audio recording of that and play it really loud when I'm driving my Z. Dennis

No, It came with the change of interior style between the 240 and 260. My early 260Z has the same regulator used in the lates and '75-'76 280Z. Then there was another door change with the '77-'78 and the regulator changed again...

My pleasure. Glad to help. And thanks for the great pictures of how your mirrors work in traffic!

Wing mirrors would be very helpful in some instances https://youtu.be/zAw_Y3Y7eKk?t=1158

@Carl Beck On your Zhome pacecars page you linked to above you indicated you only have the one color photo of the 1973 Datsun 240Z USAC Official Pace / Safety Car. I think I have another from an old ebay ad several years ago.

My vote is you replace the moustache bar with a 240Z R180 moustache bar and install it the right direction. It looks like you have a 280Z R200 bar in there now in the wrong direction for an R180.

The real issue with using the compressor for an air supply is compressor oil. The air needs to be filtered and run through an oil remover to make it suitable for breathing. The other thing is the compressor intake needs to be pulling air from a safe area. Not near any exhaust ports or pulling fumes into it. It's the filtration on these systems that make them expensive. I have a fresh air mask but usually use the respirator as it's so much easier and I don't have 2 hoses to keep out of the paint. When I do a big spray I use the fresh air mask. It is much nicer because there is no inhaling effort compared to pulling through a cartridge and the air is cool in the hood so it helps reduce sweating in the booth and dripping in your fresh paint The ones that feed the gun and mask off one line are really nice systems although the air will only be as cool as the compressor supplying it.

The link I put in my last post shows the changes. It's just a little cringe-worthy watching you grind when you can bolt instead. Carry on...

Thanks for the info this will help me move forward.

Actually, they can be both or more. The starting material can be an epoxy, with the curing agent being isocyanate-based, or vice-versa with the starting material being a polyurethane (from isocyanates) and the curing reaction being from epoxies. People can get sensitized to agents used to make either. Really, any coating with volatiles, the solvents that you can smell, is dangerous. There is no safe solvent or coating, before it's cured. I met somebody that had applied epoxy coatings and adhesives for years until one day when his body decided no more. He couldn't even get near to them after that. He still seemed stunned telling us the story, as students visiting his kit airplane company. Avoid the vapors, even if you've not had prior problems. Once you get sensitized you can't be fixed, no going back. Charcoal filters designed for organic vapors is what you want. Or a self-contained breathing system. https://www.osha.gov/dts/shib/respiratory_protection_bulletin_2011.html

Hi Kats, I'll try my hand at a translation. "Downfalls" means "drawbacks" or "undesirable properties" or "weaknesses". The questioner was trying to determine if there were any problems with mounting the mirrors on the fenders when compared to mounting them on the doors.

Mark, The catalog shows no changes to regulators, locks, or other parts during the switch from early to later 260Z: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Body-260Z-280Z/2-Seater/Door-Lock-Regulator-Handle

A promotional claim that epoxy paints are low-VOC and chromate-free is disingenuous. They may be good for the environment, but they may prove to be very bad for you. Even the 'best' of filter-type full-coverage masks will not protect you from isocyanates. They are not particulates and they apparently cannot be trapped or absorbed or neutralized by a filter. To make matters worse, they are also absorbed through the skin. For proper safety protection, you need a full suit and mask-and-pumped-air system... which will set you back about $1,000. So why are catalyzed (aka '2K','two-pack', etc) paints apparently being used by so many hobbyists without any ill effects? It appears to be a combination of two factors: personal physiology, and extent of exposure. For some people, even a one-time exposure can lead to significant long-term health problems. For others, they may simply find that they can no longer tolerate future exposure because it's not worth the symptoms they experience. For others still, the symptoms seem to be minimal (or at least temporary... or maybe just postponed until they get older). You will hear and read many reports from people who say that they've used catalyzed paints for years with no ill effects. Those would be the people who fit into category #3. The problem is that you will not know which of the three categories you fit into until after the fact. This video, produced by the Ontario Ministry of Labour, may be of interest... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRstojCeyEQ Isocyanate-based paint hardener is sold at the retail level everywhere and with minimal safety warnings. I've experienced the chest-tightening symptoms and I will now only use the stuff in an open-air environment (i.e. outdoors, or with the garage door open). Others will disagree and say I'm being too cautious. I suggest you try a limited exposure to start.

Right? It has also amazed my son and I as Z cars passed through our shop how different each one was to another. They all have different "personalities" - rather than: "a Z is a Z is a Z"... It's definitely a car you can make your own.

That is the 1972 OMS Pace Car... http://zhome.com/Racing/PaceCars.htm They changed the tail lights to make it look like a more current model - to get additional Nissan rewards..

this.... and I also get nervous as heck when people decide to use my fender as a chair on car shows

Couldn't that be sad also about the round tops ? Cause many Americans back in the day and even now seem to ditch them for a 4 barrel american downdraft carb + intake...

I hadn't thought of undoing them from underneath! I assumed the mud guard on my 280 would be an issue but not so much on the 240's. Don't get me wrong, I am in love with the look but will probably stay stock location on my build as my 280 restomod doesn't flow with the Fairlady feeling that much. I love to see them on the early cars though!

The first three could equally apply to the stock Mirror(s) on the HLS30U. The fourth wasn't and isn't an issue for owners of Japanese market models as the factory didn't charge extra for them. Seriously, if they "get in the way" of working on the engine then it must be a hell of a job that needs doing? I find that they don't get in the way at all. Of course, you can reach underneath, undo just one nut and remove them in a jiffy if it's that much of an issue. Try that with the stock Export door mirror...

- Fitting a car cover - working on the engine and leaning over the fenders - people "playing" with them in parking lots - cost almost $600 US ($900 cdn) but yes....very cool!

You're slowly convincing me that OEM fender mirrors are actually very functional and a great idea.... I mean I already know that they look great! Do they have any downfalls?

No gaskets on the main cases, only the front cover. People like to use the Blue Hylomar non-hardening sealant. You can take it apart when you forget to do something. Your synchros look a little worn. Supposed to be even on both sides of the pyramid with a sharp point at the top. Hard to tell from pictures. There should be a gutter sticking out of the adapter plate. Might be broke off. Is it stuck to the drain magnet? Here's 1982.