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The reference points used to generate that 913mm measurement are tricky to replicate in practice. If you look closely at the small sectional drawing of the front shock tower, you'll see that the 'A' point actually lies on the plane defined by the underside of the shock tower cap. You can't measure at this plane unless you remove both front struts and then use either a trammel bar or a plumb laser. So, instead, you have to measure across the tops of the shock tower caps. But... Not so apparent from the sectional drawing, but very clear to the naked eye, is that the shock tower cap has a lip on the top (this is a little more evident in the sectional drawing of the rear shock tower that appears on the right side of FSM Dwg. BF-3). The top of this lip sits (by my measurement) 13mm above the bottom (reference) surface of the cap. So when you take the 13.5-degree cant of the front strut into account, it means that if you measure the A-A distance at the top of the lip, the result it will be somewhat less than if you were measuring at the (intended) bottom surface of the cap. My calculator says that 'somewhat less' = 7mm, so a measurement of A-A taken across the top of the lips should be 906mm. Now, if you left the press-in black plastic trim buttons in place (did you?) and took your measurement across the top of the buttons, you'll be measuring at a plane that's even higher above bottom (reference) surface of the shock tower cap. 906mm will shrink to ~ 902mm (est). Also: It's difficult to make this measurement accurately with a steel rule or (worse still) a tape measure. The correct way is to use a trammel bar*. If you used a steel rule or tape measure, your measurement accuracy will be no better than plus/minus 1mm (and more likely only plus/minus 2mm). * You can make your own single-purpose trammel bar. Start with a 4-ft (1219mm) length of 1" x 2" lumber and two 6-inch lengths of straightened 0.032" wire. Drill a slightly undersized hole into the flat side of each end of the wood strip (drill all the way through) and then press the wire lengths into the holes. The holes should be about 900mm apart. Now, using 1-qt paint cans sitting on each front fender, support the wood strip (your 'trammel bar') above and across the shock towers. Adjust the projecting length of the wires as required. Then line up the tip of the LHS wire with the centre of the LHS shock tower trim button. Then -- taking care not to disturb the trammel bar -- bend the RHS wire until its tip aligns with the centre of the RHS shock tower trim button (you may need to go back and forth a bit, until you're satisfied that both wire tips are correctly aligned with the centres of the trim buttons). To get your final measurement, transfer the paint cans and the trammel bar to your shop bench (don't disturb the wires!). Then position a steel rule on the bench top so that it sits under the wire pointers and take your measurement.

Bit late to the party but I believe my 280z came with the same or allmost the same wheels. Don’t know if they are modified as I haven’t taken the wheels off yet but I must say they look pretty good under my silver Z. Attached is one of the pictures from the auction I bought the car from. The seller also included the original set of wheels but I prefer these. Tire size is 225/60R14 in the rear and 195/70R14 in the front.

@Patcon Having said that, I just looked through the excellently-researched 'Vintage Z Restoration Program Historical Compendium' put together by Chris Wenzel @26th-Z and he too specifically quotes powder coating as having been used. From the Compendium: "Nissan literature talks briefly about updating some aspects of the 240Z. A 3-row radiator was used and the tire specification was updated. In an effort to provide more durability to suspension components they were powder coated "to factory colors" so as to "ensure that you will enjoy your 240Z's performance for years to come"." Obviously it's a quote from NMC USA's VZ Program sales literature, so I don't know if that was the reality or not, but the fact that the independent Japanese journalist who visited Pierre'Z in person reported the same thing might suggest something. Of course he could simply have been quoting the literature, I don't know. I've always found powder coating to be much too thick on such parts, and there's always an issue where the powder coating transitions to a wear/bearing/mounting surface. I've seen it peel away in those places, so I much prefer paint (as per original manufacturing). Inspection of a few VZ Program cars would probably settle the question as to what was actually applied on them.

Maybe a bit late to the party but I’ll be using this thread to rebuild my 1977 280z door hinges as the passenger side in particular sages so much that the door won’t even close anymore. Any tips on removing and installing the doors on a 280z? The tricky bit is that they are bolted from the outside and I don’t want to remove the entire front end.

Ok I will check on that tomorrow and will update you guys, thanks for the help. I appreciate it a bunch.

Very cool! Looks like the new shop is a nice upgrade. Looks like you might have more acreage too...

I think Yarb's thought might be it needs surfacing.. There are some chatter marks and possibly some blue hot spots too. Yarb, be me to it by seconds...

Well done Ken. Perseverance par excellence! Dashboards are not fund to work on.

Understood Darom! If you decide you don’t need them and want to get rid of them, just shoot me a message. Thanks!

Attack of the killer B’s!

Hi, I don't think he will respond, but you can get your parts from: Z-Services.eu | Shop for Datsun 240Z, 260Z & 280Z I also have a lot of parts for Z's not specific for the 280z as this was never a euro car.. Oh and yes as my name says i'm from the Netherlands too.

Horror House on Highway Five (1985)

Back to normal programming. This 240Z auction is ending today but it's already up to $23,000. Kind of surprising considering its unusual appearance. It does look clean though. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-293/

Sure thing!

Rear view mirror, with attach brackets and sun visor support pads, including screws. Missing knob to adjust mirror.

For sale is a rebuilt circuit board for the 75-78 280z OEM clock. The circuit boad is usually what fails. Cost is $80 (includes shipping). For questions contact me at: ron@zclocks.com. Thanks for looking....

I remember my older brother and Dad were swapping a clutch. I jumped in the car, pushed the clutch to the floor, blowing out the slave cylinder. I got out of the car and started running! Fun times. My Dad is now 87 and loves to brag on my mechanic ability. He's my biggest fan.....now. Lots of great memories.

All, The mounted muffler appears to be silver. The unmounted muffler (photos 2 and 3 above) have a greenish tint. Any consensus on the correct color? Thanks, Keith

Bump Anyone have a comment? Keith

Registration: 9am–11am Hosted and Sponsored by: Bridgewater Nissan, Cars in no time 1400 US-22, Bridgewater, NJ 08807 Google Map to Bridgewater Nissan Save time at the show and pre-register your car (at no obligation or upfront cost) at: NJ Z Show Registration Portal Everyone is invited – you don't need to be a Member! Get there early, we expect a big turn-out. First 75 Z cars will receive a free Z Car Show tee shirt, dash plaque, plus a goody bag with car stuff. Over 60 trophies to be awarded! 1st, 2nd & 3rd place trophies in Stock and Street Mod, plus Nissan Mod, Roadster, GT-R & Other Nissan/Datsun trophies. Lots of great raffle items, and a 50/50! Bridgewater Nissan is also offering 20% discount on parts purchases for the day of the show. Food Truck for refreshments and lunch. A family friendly event: no alcohol, please be respectful & polite to our generous hosts. Help promote the Show by hanging a NJ Z Car Show Flyer. ‣ Base Registration is $15 (payable at the show). ‣ For an additional $15, you can Support the Club & get a NJ Z Car Club sweatshirt ($30 total). Organized by the NJ Z Car Club at NJZClub.com Looking forward to a great day shared with Z enthusiasts. Your participation is what makes this show so rewarding!

For sale is a completely refurbished 1-knob calendar clock. This clock is very nice and keeps good time. Price is $550 and includes taxes and shipping. Please contact me, ron@zclocks.com, if you have questions.

Wow! Could have just got you to print the mirrors rather than rescuing old beaten up one 🤣

will do. thanks