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I have these two wires hanging in close proximity to the connectors that attach to the 6-lead plugs coming out of the fuse box - a thick white/red and a "normal" white (that had been covered by a black sleeve. Because of the proximity, I'm confident that the white wire connects with the white wire coming out of the left side bundle from the fuse box and services the horn circuit. I think I have a good idea of where the white/red wire goes but want confirmation from one of our electrical gurus. Because it is finished with a lug, it is supposed to be held on somewhere with a screw or bolt and I think that place is the metal block located around 3 o'clock on the MSA fuse box. On my other '72 that has the OEM fuse box, the white/red wire disappears underneath the box and I haven't torn things apart to see exactly where it attaches. Can someone verify that this white/red wire does indeed go on the screw mount inside the MSA fuse box?

Two things: 1) Is there a place to get a replacement mechanism? I can only find the cable. And when you buy a brake kit it doesnt include the parking brake hardware. 2)I used to have to pull the hand brake almost all the way up to the ceiling to get it to hold, so I replaced the cable. Now I can’t get both parking brake cables connected at the same time — it’s always one side or the other. If I force it to connect, the tension is so high that the brake stays engaged constantly. I must be missing something, because no matter what I try, I can’t close the gap enough to attach both sides. I figured the new cable might just need to stretch a little, so I tried pulling on it, but nothing gives me the clearance I need to make it work. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?

I believe, the unusual shaped wrench about halfway down on the right side is for valve adjustment to tighten and loosen the lock nuts. The other below it may be for holding the adjusting nut while tightening

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

@Captain Obvious How did you make your cables??

If I were looking for a Z this car fits the bill. Probably scary fun to drive. In the comments it sounds like the seller is upfront about some things that need to be fixed like the power steering.

Painfull but true

🤓

I think that adhesive is the only way forward. However, you could always try it first without glue and see whether it can adopt to all of the door contours and then stay in position... especially in the areas of tightest bends. I'm pretty sure that it won't.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

BTW.. if you really want to put some fuel into a tank of anything/any machine, i use the fuel for 2 and 4 cycle engines used in gardening machines.. they stay good a long time, are more expensive but work the best and keep things not getting clogged up with varnish! The fuel out of the tank i put in the car that i'm driving at that time. (Often the 240z as it's used round the clock and also can run on bad fuel or old fuel.. i always say if i pee in the tank he will probably drive on that as well! 🤣 )

Didn't mean to contradict you directly. There might have been something in the fuel that was left behind as a solid. Crystalline and solid are two separate things in the materials world. A solid can be crystalline but it doesn't have to be. Who knows, it might have been residual fuel stabilizer, left behind when the gasoline evaporated. Most of them are a witch's brew of chemicals designed to save the metals and the fuel. I took some chemistry courses! 🤢 https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Lucas-Fuel-Stabilizer.pdf https://defender.com/assets/pdf/sta-bil/safety_data_sheet_302110.pdf

If you need headlight buckets, I have a few.

But why do you expect to see detailed photos of a commercial, industrial process over and above the few PR photos that Nissan chose to show us? They gave us plenty of information about the product itself and a fair bit of information about the company and its various operations. As far as Nissan are concerned, anything more than that is really none of our business.

Possibly change the system to a higher resistance coil? And get rid of one or both ballasts. Just a thought

Interested -- if the price is manageable.

Looks like it still has an engine. Says it's a turbo. Row521982 Datsun 280ZX at PICK-n-PULL Portland South JN1CZ04S1CX623964

My factory floor covers the groove and its filled with black goo

Would have loved to go for a ride when we were at Zcon. If I had been feeling better we could have changed a radiator and then gone for a rip!

You meant N47 =MN47

What a clever little piece! Never heard of that either

There are some clips that go on the cowl to protect the body. Similar to the 240z but a different part number. Can't even find a picture of those datsun 66312-A4900 A good glovebox A dome light for the cargo area of the wagon. They are different than the center domelight. I know I saw one for sale somewhere not that long ago but can't find it now Thanks, Charles

Working on PCV again, I am going to try for the exhaust. My basic plan is, valve cover to stock pcv valve, to a catch can, then block to the catch can, catch can to the exhaust.