Topics Last Week

Today I broke my back it feels like. All the things I've done to the car aren't worth a flip when I can't back out of my driveway. So today I dug up some asphalt to save my oil pan and my exhaust from The Z Store.

How much for both sides? 🤭 Kidding around. It does seem simple but I would be concerned about the length to clear the slam panel when the hatch is closed. It would be very close without breaking the extensions when you shut the hatch. ????

First picture looking done from top Second picture door side Thrid picture body side The boot was a straight section about 6" long. They came from Dave many years ago. The boots have been installed for 5 or 6 years, but only used heavily for this past summer. All seems good! I have power windows and power lock wires running through them.

Outstanding.

They wrote great songs but I can't think of any covers that were done. What a shame.

Whether it was the best approach or not , I decided to slug/sleeve the A pillars . I felt a sizable sleeve -3” would give plenty of weld points and help keep things aligned . I had kept lots of A pillars material from where I cut these roofs up . The complex part is that the pillars taper ever so slightly . Also tough is making square cuts to match one roof to the other roof pillars . Another obstacle was I realized the drivers A pillar on my replacement roof was bent back -likely from the accident the car was in . It was a hard hit- shoving the LS2 back into the firewall . Windshield was still in the car he said . Getting the height right on the A pillars was going to be the big challenge . In the first pic of this thread you’ll see I built a support out of angle iron for the roof to sit on . I used my Z to measure from the seat bolt hole to roof line . This support also helped to have something to set the roof on while I made adjustments. Thank god these roofs are light.

Looks like it could be a good basis if it's not rusty. At that discount it might be a scam though

Here's a very familiar picture, I'm pretty sure Zkars put up for us, that shows where the fluid should be. The top of the rectangle.

That's exactly what I did. Perfect!

As long as we’ve brought up our daily drivers, every time I go to the Toyota dealership they were telling how much mine was worth and how I should trade it! I double crossed them and sold it to a private party for $36K and bought this! Holy Schmidt it’s fast for an SUV. Porsche Macan GTS. That’s one of the other three Porsches sticking its tail out of the garage behind it…

Arguably the rarest of the fairladies…..

I'm going to want power windows at some point, but would like a fairly invisible system. Atleast on the door card... I'll keep an eye out for your thread

The fuel stabilizer will probably be good enough for now. I'd suggest taking it out on the road for at least an hour to work out all the issues that gasahol creates. Maybe even pump in a few gallons of fresh fuel into the tank, depending on how much fuel is still in there. FYI, when any car or internal combustion engine sits for 4 weeks the fuel and alcohol separate and the alcohol attracts moisture (water) which goes to the bottom and sits. This happens in the fuel tank, in the pump, in the fuel lines, in the carbs or injectors and so on. I don't think that I have to explain what happens with the water in the fuel system. For a fuel stabilizer in the future, there is only one product to use and it's not Sta-bil. That's an ok product and it keeps the fuel stabilized for up to 1 year but there is a product that is waaaaay better and most of you have probably heard of it. It's called Seafoam and they guarantee it to keep fuel stabilized up to 2 years. I'll take that a step further by letting everyone know that I"ve got first hand experience with the product and I've seen it keep fuel stabilized for over 4 years without any problems. I haven't checked my 79 620 fuel for over 2 years now but it was ok 2 years ago and I parked the truck in 2018 after I seafoamed the gas. My 75 z sat for 4.5 years and I put Seafoam in the gas the day I bought it in April 2018 and didn't start the engine until August 2022. I checked the fuel first and it smelled fine. Two days after I got it started I took off for the Olympic peninsula with it and drove it all over the place without a problem. Still driving the car today. By the way, Z Specialties is alive and well, I never have closed for good, only the past locations were closed for good. I work out of my home now part time and I don't have any employees. Z man of Washington

Is it for the 260 in your cars owned or is it a ZX as the TECH FORUM category you chose? Here's wiring for a 260. There's a lot of info in the RESOURCES category up top of the home page

Last time I messed with this, I tried to use off the shelf screws and I could not get enough mass packed into a small enough package. I've found that 4 grams is a good amount of mass to get the float to sit level at equilibrium, and the wood screw just didn't weigh enough. Here's a failed attempt to use a brass wood screw instead of making my own weights from scratch. Pic of a wood screw chucked up in the lathe, narrowing the head, The process of narrowing the head worked fine, but the amount of mass remaining wasn't enough. I ended up making another pair of weights from scratch. Here's a pic of what didn't work out:

The RPMs should decease when lifting that piston, almost dying out. Lifting the piston disables that carb then you are running on the 3 cylinders the other carb feeds. That's what mine does anyhow. Try reaching in and lift the piston itself instead of pushing those pins down. Your needle height may be off from the rebuild with the needle height set screw? Remember raising and lowering is viewed from the bottom of the car. Turn the nuts towards the fender to lower the needles. Read the section on SETTING MIXTURE.

Still in original packaging. $10.

Phot says it all. Sand, paint and ready-to-go $25

I just this morning realized my '72 has all Nissan glass except the front, PPG. That means it's not 100% but a busted windshield on a 53 year old car isn't a deal breaker. It does have the blue-ish tint sun visor.

Glad you came to ZCON and gave me some inspiration on my future engine! I got a pic of our cars together and one of yours at the show Saturday. Hope to see you again at a future event!

😎

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

Very cool! I love my ZCG brake kit. The KW stuff is probably amazing, but I can't stand the purple and yellow:)

Photos are of the original N33 exhaust manifold I removed from my 73. Replaced it with an earlier one when I went to round top carbs. I confirm you need a different downpipe. I was able to swap my 73 downpipe for an earlier one.