the z whisperer

When these ignition locks get worn they can go bad in a multitude of ways. One of the ways is they can accept the wrong key as long as it's the correct keyway and they will go to the running position and freeze in that position like what happened to you. It's good that you managed to get the key out, I can usually do that with the lock in my hand but it takes a little finesse. This scenario of the lock getting stuck in the running position is not that uncommon considering how old these cars are getting. Another rule of thumb on these locks is if you can pull the key out with the car running the lock needs to be rebuilt. On the dual sided key style of ignition switch which ran from 1972 all the way through the 1983 year they are rebuildable and I can do that. I can recode them as needed and if needed and I've been doing locks for z cars since about 1997. The only issue I'm running into is the lock parts are getting scarce and so is finding someone that knows what parts they have. I carry most lock parts in stock. I can rebuild the ignition locks and the door locks on all the dual sided keys. All the cars from 1972-1983 use one key fits all the locks. I can recode most locks to accept a specific key. There are 2 styles of keyways, the X6 and the X7, their mirror'd images of each other. I can do either one. For the hatch locks I can't rebuild them but I can put new wafers in to get them working better. Other than that no parts are available for the hatch locks. I'm now in my 48th year of repairing and resurrecting z cars. Contact me by e-mail or by phone for more information. The Z Whisperer zmanofwashington@gmail.com

The pics I showed are from work I've done in the past. The header pic was the only one I could find that showed enough of the header. That engine went into a 240 Z that I did for one of my customers, and the efi was a job I did for a different customers car which was a 77 or 78 280 Z. I attached the pics strictly as an example to show how the job is done for the intake mod and the other was to show which is the best style of header to use. I"m not aware of an EGR recall on the 280's. Are you confusing it with the BPT valve recall? ZMOW

Great that you got your tank coated, hopefully it will work fine for many years. As far as your intake manifold goes, I've seen that rot hole happen more than a few times through the years. What I do is cut off the egr section of the intake and I weld an aluminum plate on top of the hole eliminating any problem in the future. I have to do that with the manifold on the bench, it can't be done while it's still in the car. Then you need to weld shut the tube going to the exhaust manifold or better yet install a header like you already did. If anyone wants me to weld up their intake you'd have to send it to me. See attached pics. I do have lots of used intakes in stock so I can weld mine up and send it to you, then you send me your old one. That way your car doesn't have to be laid up for awhile. Or I could sell you an intake that is intact and doesn't have a rot hole. As far as your header goes, as long as you don't have an auto trans you're best bet on the header is using a 6 into 1, not a 6, 2, 1. I have a ceramic coated 6 into 1 header with round ports in stock hanging on the wall waiting to be sold if anybody needs one. The one in the pic is just like it except that one is alumacoated whereas the one I have hanging on the wall looks like chrome. see pic Z man of Washington

The fuel stabilizer will probably be good enough for now. I'd suggest taking it out on the road for at least an hour to work out all the issues that gasahol creates. Maybe even pump in a few gallons of fresh fuel into the tank, depending on how much fuel is still in there. FYI, when any car or internal combustion engine sits for 4 weeks the fuel and alcohol separate and the alcohol attracts moisture (water) which goes to the bottom and sits. This happens in the fuel tank, in the pump, in the fuel lines, in the carbs or injectors and so on. I don't think that I have to explain what happens with the water in the fuel system. For a fuel stabilizer in the future, there is only one product to use and it's not Sta-bil. That's an ok product and it keeps the fuel stabilized for up to 1 year but there is a product that is waaaaay better and most of you have probably heard of it. It's called Seafoam and they guarantee it to keep fuel stabilized up to 2 years. I'll take that a step further by letting everyone know that I"ve got first hand experience with the product and I've seen it keep fuel stabilized for over 4 years without any problems. I haven't checked my 79 620 fuel for over 2 years now but it was ok 2 years ago and I parked the truck in 2018 after I seafoamed the gas. My 75 z sat for 4.5 years and I put Seafoam in the gas the day I bought it in April 2018 and didn't start the engine until August 2022. I checked the fuel first and it smelled fine. Two days after I got it started I took off for the Olympic peninsula with it and drove it all over the place without a problem. Still driving the car today. By the way, Z Specialties is alive and well, I never have closed for good, only the past locations were closed for good. I work out of my home now part time and I don't have any employees. Z man of Washington