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It's actually the US govt developing the interface for next gen public services.

I recently came into ownership of an '81 turbo car. I'm planning on swapping out the intake, etc, and the cruise will be an unfortunate casualty - putting out a feeler for any takers. It is on the car currently and fully functional. I can take some video of it in action the next time I take it out. Includes everything in the FSM pic below, solenoids, vacuum pump, tanks, and the dash control panel (not pictured). This is a pic of the actual engine bay:

in 75 they are not greaseable and there are no clips. The joint caps are swedged in the yoke.

I also think it's for the AC (compressor motor switch). Nissan supplied a similar, blue-colored wire (with a bullet-style connector) for that purpose as part of the Z's mini-harness (Item #13 in the diagram above).

That's great! Yes they are difficult to get to. Especially with the driveshaft in place. Be sure and tighten the locknuts to keep things in place

I have a number of cars that sit for long periods of time. I use non ethanol fuel and Stabil. Typically keep the tanks full, to help with condensation. Rare for me to have a fuel issue and some may sit for 2 or more years, but I try to get fresh fuel in them yearly.

Probably bad bushings. Think I already said this before.

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

If I were looking for a Z this car fits the bill. Probably scary fun to drive. In the comments it sounds like the seller is upfront about some things that need to be fixed like the power steering.

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I think that adhesive is the only way forward. However, you could always try it first without glue and see whether it can adopt to all of the door contours and then stay in position... especially in the areas of tightest bends. I'm pretty sure that it won't.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

Didn't mean to contradict you directly. There might have been something in the fuel that was left behind as a solid. Crystalline and solid are two separate things in the materials world. A solid can be crystalline but it doesn't have to be. Who knows, it might have been residual fuel stabilizer, left behind when the gasoline evaporated. Most of them are a witch's brew of chemicals designed to save the metals and the fuel. I took some chemistry courses! 🤢 https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Lucas-Fuel-Stabilizer.pdf https://defender.com/assets/pdf/sta-bil/safety_data_sheet_302110.pdf

If you need headlight buckets, I have a few.

But why do you expect to see detailed photos of a commercial, industrial process over and above the few PR photos that Nissan chose to show us? They gave us plenty of information about the product itself and a fair bit of information about the company and its various operations. As far as Nissan are concerned, anything more than that is really none of our business.

Possibly change the system to a higher resistance coil? And get rid of one or both ballasts. Just a thought

Interested -- if the price is manageable.

Looks like it still has an engine. Says it's a turbo. Row521982 Datsun 280ZX at PICK-n-PULL Portland South JN1CZ04S1CX623964

My factory floor covers the groove and its filled with black goo