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gnosez

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Everything posted by gnosez

  1. They did. The second #33 BSR 240Z was modified to use a straight bar. I have two of them in my garage (1.10 and 1.25 diameters). They hole sawed both engine bay rails welded in a tube and suspended the bar thru the tubes.
  2. A 510 at Watkins Glen had a small fire that upon investigation started by the distributor. The owner and others had never seen it happen before. Connected to this post?
  3. My observations on the Phillips Island video as related to similar HP track days here in the USA: The difference in performance seems to me more related the driver's ability and not the car they were driving. Only a few were track prepped and I suspect on street tires, maybe even high performance tires but not race tires. Unless you have done a lot of track days having a "race" car in your rearview mirror can cause folks to let you go by so they can concentrate on their own driving. I race with a few vintage groups and they operate in one of two ways; specific classes based on HP and car performance (in the day in the USA such as A, B and C production SCCA cars) which run as a single group. It can also be B, C & D production with AP big block cars running by themselves or with others cars (lots of Zs , 911s and 914-6s). The other grouping is a mish mash of cars ranging from a 70 Camaro, a 911, a 930 turbo, 240/26/280 Datsun Zs, an Alfa GT V6, a Shelby GT350 Mustang, IMSA corvette, a 65 Barracuda or a Datsun 510. Each is in a different subgroup but on the track racing at the same time. My 72 Datsun with a fully race prepared L28 is only 2-7 seconds off the pace depending on the track and conditions (wet vs dry). As a Datsun driver I admit to getting a kick out of beating a Porsche (when I can) in the same manner that Bob Sharp, Sam Posey and Jim Fitzgerald did in their Datsuns. I use the later rear spoiler from the Sharp #33 car to remind a Porsche driver who's in front of them.....
  4. Bushings or bearings or both are what's needed? I love the idea of a better ratio and resultant feel.
  5. There's no similar brass bearing anywhere or at least the complete dimensions and specs?
  6. I am very interested and would like to be added to whatever list you might have started. I would consider two (2) setups for my street and race car both of which are 1972s.

     

    RITR.jpg

  7. He's using an aftermarket Wilwood MC and the rod is not always at the right length when you take them out of the box.
  8. You need to bleed the MC first which you can do either on the bench or in the car. You need to be able to see fluid come out of the MC and it will be messy so plan accordingly. You also might have an issue with the rod being too short to completely compress the MC.
  9. Putting it into 1st and then into reverse is my way to limit any grinding. There those three bolts in the sandwich plate between the bellhousing and the main/tail section. There is a spring and ball bearing that is use as an indent. Too much pressure and the shifter is locked in place. Too loose and it will come pop right of gear without much effort. Those springs in most trannies have never been replaced. I'm not saying this is the cause of your issues but it's one more thing to consider. I solved my problem by getting a longer bolt and a few washers. A little trial and error got the issue fixed that is until it grenaded several race days later caused by me not any of the repairs. Rebuilt and back in in a week.
  10. The best way but not one available to everyone is to put the car on scales, the ones used to corner balance the car and tighten until you see a difference in weight shifting from one side to the other. One starts corner balancing with the sway bars disconnected,
  11. Some of that is Wilwood comp pads and the other and primary source is the left LCA (just) touching the rotor under heavy braking. I moved the LCA pivot points to reduce bumpsteer so take a look again and see how little I need to saw the steering wheel back and forth. LCA has had a visit with the grinder (again) but it can't be tested until I get to The Glen next week.
  12. SCCA-NER/HRG at Thompson (all comers vintage race). Chasing a very nice 280Z part3thompson.MP4
  13. I have a FG hood from the early 70s that has the same workmanship. I need to go look at more closely after seeing this pictures.
  14. I agree with the blue (as opposed) to the red lock-tite. Belmetric is my go-to place but then they're located 15 minutes from my house. Great people.
  15. I have used the jack and wrench/vise grip trick a few times but mostly on the fill plug for the tranny. I once had the car start to lift off the jack stands the plug was so tight. Heat was the solution.
  16. A 1 inch piece of flat stock about 10 inches long with a 1/2 inch bar stock piece welded to the end. The I/2 piece was measured to allow it to just fit between the mustache bar and the diff for a normal cover. You can also just weld the short piece of 1/2 bar stock to 10 inches of 1/2 stock. The extra capacity cover has a side filler and is somewhat easier to get at with a 1/2 inch extension.
  17. I'm not a fan of sending dirty air from the engine back into the engine so consider a knockout catch can with a drain valve.
  18. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2fCyyKzce&id=D6DF55F4D0DE0A24FF9C5ADF54D5414B597764CE&thid=OIP._CyyKzcev0tcEueNbDozmQHaE7&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.conceptcarz.com%2fimages%2fDatsun%2f70-Datsun-240Z_DV_10-WG_06.jpg&exph=681&expw=1024&q=bob+sharp+racing+images&simid=607987100539618427&ck=B4108861B6E062FA12492BE08D672707&selectedIndex=96&ajaxhist=0 Same car with different flares and wheels?
  19. https://www.billstoler.com/#/gallery/2019-watkins-glen-vrg-event/wg2019-8881-ca247/ This is John Willey's very clean and well prepared 280Z. I ran against him and he is a very good driver.
  20. Whether it's at the track, prepping for the next race or at the end of the year, there's always at least one nut or bolt that was loose that would have made for a very bad day. The number of wire-tied, double nutted and new nuts and bolts increases every year. Every bolt/nut has a paint mark to verify it was torqued and a similar reference mark to show if it moved. The plug wires are individually zip tied to the distributor cap and the dipstick has a spring to keep it in place. Everyone of these things came loose at one point. Peace of mind.....
  21. I found a better picture. We bolted it in and backed up the metal inside the cowl area. On a separate note, once we added the bracing similar to ones used in the GTU car we had to come up with a way for the wiper arm to work since it's path was blocked by the tube connecting the driver's side strut tower and the upright tube in from of the shifter which ties into the cross=member under the dash. That side is higher to allow clearance for the carbs. We cut the lower wiper arm and fabbed an upside down "U" which was bolted in. It's hard to get a good picture but i think you're get the idea.
  22. Here's the one we have used for several years on the race car. This winter we expanded our bracing but will include the tower-to-tower piece.
  23. Just click on my name and it should take you to me. There's a private message button. Either day is fine.
  24. Sometimes you can remove the strut from the shock (as opposed to the other way around) using a hat or large washer, a 2x4, 2 clamps and a hammer.
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